Re: What can be said about the 4-speed New Process NV833 overdrive manual transmissio
A couple points I don't like about how he does this.
He re-uses the roll pins. I would never do that. They're usually fairly cheap and they loose some tension when you drive them through. You don't want em walking through when you're driving. GM Hurst etc used Nylok nuts for a reason. Loctite may work OK but I've had fasteners with Loctite come loose where Nyloks will stay in place. I wouldn't recommend hardened relay rod bushings. The main reason to have soft plastic relay rod bushings is they wear instead of the rod ends, shifter paddles or, the transmission levers. The Pit Pack with nylon bushings is pretty cheap. |
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But than again, he builds race transmissions and not your grocery getters, so there may be a reason, probably tighter fittings, more sturdyability, and race cars are driven less than daylies so the parts can last just fine. Honestly I don't know. ha ha |
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Gregski, I'm guessing this is the bolt. It's the bolt in the middle at the back of the cover. Inline with the two shifting forks, again towards the rear of the cover
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It's been awhile since I've had a side cover off so I can remember if my Saginaw fork looked like this.
Is this wear acceptable? |
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can anybody help me figure out how to keep this Reverse Interlock Link from falling out, more specifically the pin that it pivots on, which sits in a hole in the side cover.
the design of it is completely illogical to me, its like hammering a nail into an existing hole, there is no anchor for it if you will, is something supposed to go into the notch in the bottom of the pin? |
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That where im at also. Gotta be a way to move/position the forks so that something, anything!, holds it. I wonder if we can use a dap of heavy grease to hold it till its installed?
I'm ordering my cover gasket today so that i can get this swap moving! |
Re: What can be said about the 4-speed New Process NV833 overdrive manual transmissio
I can't say for certain but I wonder if that pivot is supposed to be "peened" over.
K |
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As in "ball peen" hammer - you use the rounded side of the hammer to fold enough material over the side of the post/stem such that it holds the other part in place. Almost like taking that post and smashing a head onto it, turning it into a sort of free form rivet. You can disregard all this, though: it didn't realize the head was already formed and that your were pressing the stem into an existing hole. K |
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Could you hold it in place with blue or red Loctite during assembly? K |
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finally pulled my SM465 Muncie out to compare it to the New Process (or is it New Venture) 833
Clearly the 833 is longer than the Muncie, though the mounting brackets appear to be fairly close |
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trying to offer up some better ways to get the measurements to be more meaningful
The Muncie seems to be 18 inches from where the bell housing would butt up to the front and to the center of the universal joint The 833 is 21 1/4 inches from where the bell housing would butt up to the front and to the tail end. It uses a slide in yoke and not a fixed one like the Muncie |
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and lets take a look at the bell housings, in my case both the 833 transmission and its bell housing have a dual bolt pattern, so I can use my old bell housing if I like because the 833 has a bolt pattern that will already match it, NOT all 833 transmission are this way (I think)
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My C10 with SM465 actually has the duel pattern bell installed factory.
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You can't use Dexron VI in them according to GM. The GM 88861800 fluid is cheaper than the Mobil ATF "Dexron III compatible" fluid that lists compatibility with GM 88861800 on the back label. Bulletin 04-07-30-037E: Release of DEXRON-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid "Any vehicle that previously required DEXRONŽ-III for a manual transmission or transfer case should now use P/N 88861800. This fluid is labeled Manual Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid." You can't use Dexron VI in most power steering applications where you could get away with Dexron III either... OTOH There's a TSB for my Impala and several other mid size GM cars from the aughts that says to replace the power steering fluid with Dexron VI... Roll with the changes and try to keep up. |
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so decided to cut out the stick out of my shifter bottom end assembly for two reasons
1. the threads for the ball were broken off on it anyways 2. I did not like the hockey welded in install, even if it was factory |
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this is where I noticed something was not as expected, my shifter (our shifters) do not have the two bolt holes to hold the stick in the bottom end assembly, that's when I went Def Con 4 on the InterWebs to do some research, and here's what I've learned
HURST makes at least two different types of bottom ends, the Bolt-On style, which is what most of us are familiar with and the ones we got, which are called Slip-In style found this pretty cool installation page for them, but looking at my stick I can't wrap my mind around what keeps these sticks from falling out |
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and here is a comparison of the Bolt-On style HURST shifter bottom end assembly (the one with the two holes) compared to the one like ours aka the Slip-In (no bolt holes)
images from HURST Shifters Online website |
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these are the rubber isolators and metal clips required to hold our sticks in place in the Slip-In style
again since GM decided to weld in our sticks I am not sure if they had the proper holes or notches in their bases to actually utilize these clips, maybe they didn't and the weld in was a work around |
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I think there are actually special Slip-In sticks that are to be used in the Slip-In bottom end assemblies, but the only one I could find on HURST Shifters Online website was this one for a 1970 Mercury Cyclone Ford Torino
Hurst 4 Speed Slip-In Shifter Handle, 1970 Mercury Cyclone Ford Torino note the single hole bottom end design |
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Incidentally, the guy that installed these shifters on the assembly line, as well as the M20 shifters, worked for me when I ran the Fender Set area. He also installed the cab running lights and the SPID label. My handle does not say "Hurst" on it, which is probably why you don't find them when you search (most sellers probably don't know it is a Hurst stick). K |
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Well Gentlemen the Greg has some Great News!!!
today after work I swung by a fantastic transmission shop Manual Transmission Warehouse (2 miles from my house, I kid you not) and Larry hooked me up, what a great man! I went in there with my case and said Larry how in the world is this pin supposed to hold this reverse lock out bracket if it don't go all the way through the side cover and Larry looked down at the floor where we was standin' and picked up the same lid from another transmission just like ours, not a Morpar 833 but one fro GM and said "Well hewk lets take a look"... then he asked "what part number is yours?" his said C-13550-2 mine just said C-13550 (no 2 at the end) clearly his was a second revision part, more importantly on his the pin went all the way though the side cover, on mine it did not |
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unfortunately that side cover belonged to another customer, but Larry disappeared for a few minutes and reappeared with another side cover, it looked grungy but it too had the pin going all the way through, he said "FIFTY BUCKS"
I said "FOURTY" He said "FOURTY FIVE" I said "FOURTY PALEAZE" He said "DEAL" he was happy, and I was thrilled!!! the mystery of the stupid design GM pin was solved!!! |
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see how on mine (the cleaner cover) there is no pin sticking out on the bottom below the top pin
and now see how on the corrected / fixed / retrofitted cover (the dirtier one) there is a pin with a snip on washer clipping it through the side cover and holding it in place, the way God intended |
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and of course once you know the part number you can Google it and we find that a good cover (with the pin sticking out) is for sale on eBay right now for $135 bucks plus another $25 for shipping!!! yaykes The Greg done good gettin' his for $40
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Well damn.......... win for Greg but not for us with the hole less covers........
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and here's what their side cover looks like |
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better yet, the Mopar A833 Overdrive version of this transmission is way more popular than our GM one and guess what it uses the exact same side cover part number and all, C-13550-2 (well the new and improved side cover that is, with the pin hole, like we want)
here's a pic |
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Is there any reason not to just bore the hole the rest of the way through the older cover on a milling machine or good tight drillpress?
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I'm pretty sure that weld on the shifter was not factory, and was added later. I am fixing to install a cast iron version of one of the A833 transmission in my truck and there is no weld on either one of the two shifters I have. I was originally thinking the shifter was slipped in and then squeezed shut by a pressing operation, but now after seeing the information you posted, I'm thinking it is removable. ________________________________ Another thing to consider if you need a driveshaft. This A833 transmission uses the same 27 spline yoke as a Turbo 350/700R4 (it also uses the same tail-shaft bushing, which is easy to replace... My transmission shop installed mine for $3.00, which included the bushing). I haven't checked this out yet, but there is a chance that the transmission, when bolted to the clutch housing, might have the same length as either one of these two transmissions. If it does, we'll know what truck to look for at the nearest Pick&Pull. |
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