Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Like this.

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps3t91el9i.png

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

So it's basically like a sliced a slot into the engine mount bracket for the frame rail to slide into.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Thanks for that. I understand now.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I went out and tinkered for a minute last night.

Here is the engine mount slotted. The 4wd frame is 1/2" taller in the area that the engine cross member mounts. More bad news is where the front cross member that the brake proportioning valve mounts to is like 6" tall from the 4x4 but the 2wd frame rail is only about 5-1/4" tall in the area it should mount so that is going to be interesting as well...

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...pstxp0bpot.jpg

I was installing my new U bolts and found some issues I need to resolve. Always something. I need a shorter stud for one.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1p5pmzhf.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2yslqano.jpg

Still need to find somewhere I can buy just 2 cheap U bolts that are square, for a 2.5" wide leaf spring and 13" long. These will temporarily mount the blocks until I can build my rear hangers. I need to be able to roll this thing out the shop soon to clean and paint the frame.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Are those from ord?

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Negative. They are from Ebay. I found this set for over $20 or so less with free ship. Seems like they would be perfect for 6" springs or larger but my 4" springs aren't that much thicker than stock springs. If they were threaded all the way like ORD's then they would work fine. I may take them out and cut more threads on them if I can't find a cheap replacement.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

For u bolts I think if you look on eBay you will find something that works. I just went on there and typed in "leaf spring u bolts" and came across a few that might work for you. Same thing for the studs if you type in "Dana 60 u bolts" or "Dana 60 studs" I came across a couple.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I looked for a couple hours yesterday and didn't come up with anything. I came up with 1 possibility on the studs but they were pricey. I am trying really hard to not let this thing get too expensive.

I am saving my funds to build my Trans Am. The 6 speed is being rebuilt right now and I should be taking the engine to machine shop to be checked and what not in the next week or so.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I certainly understand the importance of inexpensiveness! My budget is literally non existent while I work on my kitchen remodel. Like $0 dollars!

Do you need studs and u bolts still then? I can try and help you find cheap ones if you like?

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

If you can that would help. Cheapest deal I can find is $30 for 2 u bolts and $20 for the studs.. Just seems really high.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I just payed $17 for the studs and four nuts $50 some dollars for the other 3 u-bolts nuts and washers good luck finding a good quality u-bolt cheap last cheap u-bolts I picked up and use stretched out and one broke and I was picking my rear axle up out the road

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I won't be driving with these. This is just so I can roll it out the shop to clean it. I will be making revere shackle brackets or whatever it is called to lift the rear the extra 4" I need.

I don't need quality I just need it to hold while I mock everything else up.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

For the front, the best I can find is $70 shipped for all three u bolts and studs. Basically a whole kit. For the studs, you can run regular bolts there.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Front? I already have front U bolts and Studs. Studs just don't have threads cut far enough down but I can fix that.

I am mainly looking for 2 u bolts for the rear for a 2.5" wide spring that are about 13" long so I can have it bolted together so I can roll it outside without my axle trying to come out from under it.

I will later change to reverse shackle setup and ditch the long u bolts and 4" blocks.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I picked up a truck that didn't have a rear end so took one I had and I used some all thread had some extra bottom plates off 90 model and tops off 80 model and run the all thread between the two with a nut on top and bottom

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

If you actually plan to only roll it around the yard i have wrapped chain around the axle and spring and bolted it together on two links to keep it tight.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Well in that case....Mine came with a ratchet strap instead of U-bolts on the one side. The scary part is that it looks like it was there for a long time.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

All good ideas and good points. Looks like I will just buy some small straps. Currently the only strap I have is like 20' long and the longest chain I have is like 12". I do have a crap tone of twine though! I will work it out.

I just want to get it outside and pressure wash it.

Not related to the truck but I did get my LS1 tore apart last night and ready to take to the machine shop. I am really missing my trans am.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I bet! You got a lot of irons in the fire!

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Yeah I do and its starting to wear on more than just my wallet. I just have too much motivation. I am so mad I don't already have to 6.5 TD to put the crew cab back together, just haven't been lucky with getting one.

Money wise though the 01 TA takes priority. We are rebuilding the trans and soon as I can get the engine to the machine shop and back I will be building it.

I will have to start selling a few spare parts & things here soon though to be able to keep funding the crew cab.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Drilling holes for the engine cross member was a pain in the ass. I hope it is right and in the correct location and what not.

You can see how the engine mounts are slotted to fit into the shorter 2wd frame.

Also have the front xmember mounted somewhat but it is not being easy at all. I have already ground off at least an 1/8" off each side just to get it to fit within the frame rails without bowing it out. Another issue is the frame is different such that I can't angle the front xmember like it would be on the 4x4 so sway bar isn't matching up so I will have to figure out what to do about that.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5yqvjrkx.jpg

Here you can see the issues with the sway bar...

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1kg5ymwm.jpg

I am also having odd problems such that one side of the xmember sits flush top and bottom but the other side has gaps above and below.

Here are the gaps and you can see it sits right against the frame.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psvflryvsr.jpg

Here is where it is flush top and bottom but has a gap between it and the frame.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...pst2xvs1la.jpg

Crazy ass ****!

Now my buddy has a lifted K5 and this is how he did his front sway bar. Anyone ever seen anything like this or know where I can buy it? It could potentially solve my issues.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...pst1ql2v7x.jpg

Also for the rear reverse shackle, this is what my buddy made for his truck and it is super beefy. I am thinking of doing the same thing except not fully boxed in and a little thinner metal. This is close to the plan though, I am having to save as much as possible during this build.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psunupq098.jpg

On a side note, I also dropped off my LS1 at the machine shop last Friday and my T56 is about 3/4 of the way rebuilt. :)

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

DIY4X makes hangers like that. On a truck this size I'd go overkill rather than trying to save.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Yeah I am aware. Trust me anything I do will be overkill and be a lot stronger than diy4x or ord or any others that I have seen. I just won't be using 5/16" thick steel like my buddy used or box it in, it isn't really necessary. He had already designed a newer version that wasn't boxed in. I will use 1/4" thick or so.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I don't like that sway bar solution at all. by clamping the leaf pack together at that point has to cause all kinds of problems with they way the leaves work. Maybe something similar to that mounted on top of the U bolts would work.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Yeah it isn't really good for anything other than just driving down the road. If you look close you can see where he has had to weld the piece back together that bolts to the leaf spring when he went off road and broke it.

I don't like it but just looking at options. May just have remove the mount pads from the crossmember and bolt down the crossmember and then mount the pads back farther where they will work.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Honestly, I just would put it together without the sway bar and then just try and find some random unit that will work. With those Springs, you really won't need a sway bar unless you start towing.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

But towing is what I am building the truck for.. That's why I want the diesel.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I found my solution for the sway bar. I just removed the sway bar mount from the cross member and moved it back in the frame to where it will be usable. Only issue now is I will have to use spacers under the front cross member to make up for the material I removed or modify it a tad. This will work I think though.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps60f9oar3.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...pso8wg3g2l.jpg

I am also trying to determine what my final height might be. To accommodate for the frame differences between 2wd and 4wd I lowered the front spring's rear shackle by 1" lower than the 4x4 version, this of course threw off my pinion angle. Come to find out though that it wasn't enough. So last night I just decided to make some quick shackles to try and fix it some.

The stock shackles has holes spaces 4" apart, I moved it to 5" but that may be too much.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psluwhiewp.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0tvtnpw1.jpg

This of course made my pinion angle worse. I may make another hole at 4.5" and see what that is like but some how I have to move the front mount for the front leaf spring down the same I have moved the rear. So I may have to detach the hanger from the body mount and space it down 1"-2" to match what the rear is.

Fun fun, just showing what little progress I made last night.

If the truck gets too high I may have to go for a smaller lift spring, like 2.5" or so. I really don't want 6" of lift, I know that may sound weird but I am building it to be practical, it probably won't see any intentional off road use.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I think you can just fix your pinion angle with shims under the leafs. If you want to run those Springs and end up at only 4" lift, you'll have to clearance the frame for the shackle.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

"It won't see and intentional off road use". That is an interesting comment. Do I want to know how you accidentally get into an off road situation.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I think you are right, that is an option. Definitely an option still to clearance frame. Just have to have mig setup at the house.

When I say intentional I mean like if I go out in a pasture to pick up a vehicle or have to drive through a field our into the woods. I live out in the country, there is no telling what I may come across. I just don't plan to run off into a mud hole on a dirt road or go ride trails with it.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I made links for the PS side and made a hole at 4.5" and at 5" this time. I definitely like the gap at the frame this time. At first when I bolted it up I was shocked how much better the 4.5" made the shackle angle.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psfjgknsmo.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psaqihkqap.jpg

However, then I took it out of 4.5 and made it 5" like the passenger side and shackle angle didn't change... Ugh. What the hell.

EDIT: I guess looking at it closer it isn't that far off I guess.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

It's not optimal, but it will work just fine.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I am hoping to mess with it more when I get weight on it, for now I just didn't want it to be touching the frame. Still a long way to go that is for sure. I am just ready to have the frame modifications I need to do, done.

I really want to roll it outside and clean it all off as well. I need to clean the frame and cab as well as clean the mess it has made in the shop.

Last night I also started working on assembling the 355 engine that came out of it, I may just go ahead and put it up for sale so I won't be tempted to slap it back together as gas engine.

Edit: Also I tried "Flexing" the suspension some last night with my small aluminum jack, springs were not giving at all and as soon as the tire got off the ground the jack broke and it slammed down. I moved my big jack under it and tried again and got it way up and spring still would not give at all. I started putting a crap ton of weight on the front end but ran out of time in the shop.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Yea those look like stiffies. But with a diesel over them they may be about right.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

I hope so. Roads are so rough around here I'd hate for it to be too stiff. I even considered bags on the rear.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

So I had an interesting weekend.

Friday I left work and drove 2.5 hours to charlotte to check out this truck. 96 1 Ton Dump Truck

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psiodbogqk.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psktqwv9oy.jpg

So the current owner has a side business welding, a customer gave him the truck just to make a dump trailer out of. The truck had been sitting for fuel issues and I guess he decided he just wanted a trailer out of it and told the guy he could sell or do whatever he wanted with the truck part, he just needed it made into a trailer. He puts it on craigslist.

I find it and ask how much for engine and he says I can have anything I want for $300 as long as I come pull it. :)

I had planned to strip this truck down of any piece I could ever use. Unfortunately, I was on a time limit and the owner had said he had a torch and was going to go ahead and cut the cab away from the trailer and cut away unnecessary stuff. That didn't happen though.

So I had to strip the truck down when I got there and was time was going away fast and I had to be home before 8. I still got everything I needed and then a little bit of extra.

Also it was really hard pulling this diesel out with the truck on dirt and his home made engine lift he had made when he was like 19 (he was well in his 50s.)

This thing is heavy!

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psnzayfnkh.jpg

Cleaned up the shop so I could push the truck forward and have plenty of room to unload and organize.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psgbfmuksy.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5o8soht6.jpg

I started tinkering with it some.

Stripped off the wiring.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psffslikg9.jpg

Looked a lot cleaner with all the extra's stripped off.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps88ibtpty.jpg

I couldn't help myself, I wanted to see it sitting in the truck.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psinsi0b6g.jpg

Couldn't use the 6.5 DS manifold, I need to track down a 6.2 manifold for it.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3ajcbufw.jpg

Here you can see why I had to take the AC box off.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps582gmjjn.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psbswr8tda.jpg

I am having a lot of problems getting it to mount to the frame correctly though. I can get one side in perfectly but the other side is about 1.5" off. I haven't put new clamshell mounts in yet. I was test fitting. I even swapped 3 different sets of mounts that bolt to engine and none of them seemed to help too much. Any THOUGHTS?

Here is the closest I could get.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psgwpln8mm.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psdy9xjalv.jpg

I have heard people saying I need "shorty" mounts? I need to move clamshells up to the BBC mounting holes? I need to twist the engine and use a screwdriver to push up the rubber inside the clamshell? Who knows.

Check out how much larger the radiator is!

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psamm7nbyq.jpg

Also I robbed the hyrdroboost setup thinking it would be a direct swap but doesn't seem to be. From left to right we have the 79 hydroboost, the 88 vacuum and then the 96 hydroboost from donor. I have been told I can swap mounting plates or something then maybe extend or shorten the rod.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps274b8xgy.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psfhqrhpsd.jpg

I also noticed this on the 6.5.. May need replacing for sure.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...pstvxf5ppn.jpg

I also found some time to reassemble the 355 TBI that came out the truck. Hopefully I can get it sold.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psttujeyir.jpg


Also thanks to my buddy, my T56 is back assembled :)

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psqeuytssd.jpg

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Short of just building new motor mounts, I'm not really sure how I would solve that issue.

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

The 6.5 is supposed to mount exactly like the 6.2 which is supposed to mount exactly like the 350. I have read that time and time again. Am I wrong?

Re: Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4
 

Pretty sure on this gen truck all the mounts are in the same spot. I couldn't get my used 350 back in last time on my crew and it looked about the same. I had just put the poly guts in my clamshells and got it home by doing the following: loosen the clamshell to crossmember bolts, both sides; drop the motorin and massage both clamshells with a bfh until it drops in, marries up to the trans and you can get bolts in both motor mounts; tighten the clamshell to crossmember hardware. Can't recall if I had to pull the motor back out for the last step. I recall the fit looked about as hopeless as yours until I backed those bolts off.