Re: Wife's 48
 

Robert
Here are the pictures of the running board mounts you asked for of hussey's.I modified his so that the running boards could easily be removed. I used 1x2 tubing for both the L bracket that mounts to the frame and the runnng board bracket. I did also weld a piece of 1/8 inch plate to one side of the L bracket that mounts to the frame for strength(I'm a bit of a wide body myself). Hussey I believe used two brackets and I used three. I did have to notch the original running board brace so that the forked end could slide over the running board brace. After I had everything fit together I drilled a hole through the forked bracket and tapped the upper fork and installed a bolt from underneath.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Thanks Jan, those help.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Friday was a good day in the shop.

First off, a big thank you to NorCalGal for the hinge plates.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1892/...c47b14ec_c.jpgIMG_2063 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

They are great, thank you.

Then I started cutting parts from the really bad 54 cab to use on the better 54 cab. I started by cutting a patch to cover the gas filler hole in the cab. I went to the drivers side and cut the patch.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1944/...4b7e9200_c.jpgIMG_2059 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I put it over the hole and it seems to match the contours. I will cut it to fit once I get the filler hole removed.

Then I have some issues on the cowl. The top cutout is to repair a spot where it looks like they put an antenna. Just below that and toward the front I cut a patch to use over the mirror damaged area, sort of like what I left in the picture and then I cut a larger patch that I am thinking about using over the gills on the riders side. Haven't decided on that, whether to remove the gills or not.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1975/...0e79dca9_c.jpgIMG_2060 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Notice on the bottom of the lower hole, the metal is thicker. I think that is where they leaded an old dent, I don't know, but it is definitely thicker and that corner is heavy.

Going out today to start work on the dash. I'll get pictures later, and hopefully some repair work will be included.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Since I had the hinge plates for the door hinges I decided to dissemble them today. It only took about 6 hours, no I'm not that slow, I ran into a little problem. First off, can anyone tell the difference in these two rider's side upper hinge bases?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1863/...254c5794_c.jpgIMG_2064 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The top one was from the 54 cab and I had planned on using it. The cross piece was actually cut off. I have no idea why, and I didn't notice until I had completely dissembled it. I was about to panic when I remembered I had another rusty upper rider's side hinge from a really rusty door. So I had to take it apart too.

Here are the remnants.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1906/...60882f16_c.jpgIMG_2065 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The rest of the hinge parts are waiting for me to get some rebuild kits, clean them up and reassemble them.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Robert, nice you have old stuff to cut up for repairs. I filled in the gills on the passenger side, didn't want water getting inside, and I also added air...Jim

Re: Wife's 48
 

Jim, I would have liked to save that cab, but the truth is every panel has rust throughs. The roof skin not only had a rust through, it looked like the truck had a tree fall on it and they fixed it with bondo. So after a lot of back and forth, I gave up on it.

If anyone needs a piece of skin, let me know and I'll see if there is enough left to make a patch.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Well, I got to work on the 48 today.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1976/...fdabffda_c.jpgIMG_2081 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

1st time the doors have been on it in at least 6 years. They need some adjustment, but I got them on by myself. It looks like they need to go up some, but they are pretty straight and other than the top gap they look pretty good.

Then I started on the dash for the 54. First I cut the ashtray supports off the back.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1940/...ba140f60_c.jpgIMG_2078 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I took the front metal off of the ashtray and fit it to the dash to check it.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1970/...8ecc1e4a_c.jpgIMG_2079 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I am going to weld it into the dash and then cut out a hole for an AC vent on both sides of the old speaker location.

And finally I got the hinges blasted clean and drilled the holes in the new plates so I can plug weld them on.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1948/...b21b3e68_c.jpgIMG_2080 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Sorry about the holes Jan, but I have to weld them on.

Nothing is going to happen for a while due to life, but at least I feel good today.

Re: Wife's 48
 

:fry:Dang you Robert, LOL. Naw, you gotta do what you gotta do.

Re: Wife's 48
 

looking good, life is what happens in between truck work, so enjoy it!

Re: Wife's 48
 

My buddy came over today and we got a good 6 hours in on his truck.

I have to say it goes REALLY slow when it's the first time you do something, at least for me. 6 hours and we got the steering column mounted where he liked it, the brake pedal mounted where he wanted and the Vintage Air mock up unit mounted and the bracket fabbed for the front VA bracket (not in the following pictures).

Here is the placement for the Vintage Air unit.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4858/...43f3855c_c.jpgIMG_2086 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
That was as high as we could get it on the firewall and still be on flat firewall steel. If it's too high or low, please let me know. We know the glove box will be cut down, but other than that we had no reason to think it wouldn't work.

Then the steering column was installed.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4837/...c3f8a5fa_c.jpgIMG_2085 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

And a shot of the brake pedal assembly from the top.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4896/...f35c2321_c.jpgIMG_2083 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

We bolted the booster on to see how it fit, and it doesn't bolt all the way up against the firewall. He cut the hole small 2 1/2" so the large tube around the brake shaft fits up against the hole and doesn't slide through the hole.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4805/...f5fb35a8_c.jpgIMG_2082 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I really thought it should have been made larger so the master cylinder sleeve would go through the firewall. As it is there is about 1/2" of threads showing on the master cylinder. Is that right?

This one shows the location of the steering wheel (NOT the actual steering wheel, just the only one I had in the junk pile to put on the column to see how it sits).
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4881/...80712f81_c.jpgIMG_2087 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

He took the fenders home to start blasting and priming, so I did get some stuff out of the shop. Now to get that frame and cab to his house and start on my truck! Not this month though...

Re: Wife's 48
 

nice work, its fun working when things go your way, makes it hard to stop.

you may find the firewall is a little flexy when you get a pedal on there. there is a factory firewall to dash brace I dont see in yours. if you do have more flex than you want you might throw the brace in and triangulate to it.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Thanks Joe. I hadn't even thought about that. It does flex. I did put in a plate like suggested in Skymangs S10, but forgot about the braces.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Dash brace is the way to go nice and solid.
Attachment 1838414

Re: Wife's 48
 

Thank you. That would surely help.

I'd sure like to see a different angle on that brace. I bought both of mine in as many pieces as they come and so I didn't see the brace, along with a LOT of other stuff I'm figuring out as I go.

Re: Wife's 48
 

here is an article on installing a hanging pedal and the pictures have good angles of the brace.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1947...chevy-pickups/

if thats not enough I can take some pictures of mine

Re: Wife's 48
 

Thanks Joe! That helped a lot.

I do have ONE (1) of the flat braces that goes from the dash to the firewall. That's enough to do one of the trucks. Now to find that brace for the other truck...

Re: Wife's 48
 

Got some time in the shop today with my buddy. Since he is taking the 48, he did some of the work, and I got some pics of him actually working. We got the bed torn down and drilled out the side angles, getting it ready for blasting and prime.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4809/...0d9aa7ac_c.jpgIMG_2097 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
We drilled out the spot welds, and then used a seam buster to get them off. They had rusted on. The sides were straightened and the new angles were test fit to the sides.

The rear cross brace was welded to the bed sides. That complicated taking it all apart.

Question: Is it recommended to weld the sides to the rear cross brace? Or just use the bolts?

My plan is to prime the angles and bed sides and then plug weld the angles to the side. I will clean off the primer where the plug welds will be and then touch up the primer.

Then we finally took the time to tack the body mounts in place. I am using the frame to store the cab I'm cutting up for pieces that I need on my wife's 54.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4852/...a66078a4_c.jpgIMG_2098 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Since this is my first truck build, we measured and re-measured several times before we tacked them in place. When we set the mounts on the frame, one looked taller than it's opposite, so we got a 4' level, and sure enough, the mounts are the same, the frame isn't level. We have not rebuilt the front end and then we measured the tires, and the difference was in the junk tires. It'll level out with the correct tires.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4818/...2fb57cc3_c.jpgIMG_2099 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Ok, another question. As I understand it, we should NOW rebuild the front end. Once the front end has been rebuilt, we can test fit the cab on the mounts that have been tacked in place. Once the cab is sitting on the frame, we then get the motor and tranny put in place to make sure everything is working together. Once it is in, we put the front back on and then can start on the radiator bracket and the front bumper mounting system. At that point we dissemble the whole thing and start cleaning and priming, or did I miss another step?

I know, I'm using Skymangs work as a bible, just measuring twice...

Re: Wife's 48
 

I am so torn on whether to replace the bed sides or strip and blast and re-do all the work I did 38 years ago, or just fake it and lean them up and prime over the work I did 38 years ago. A complete new bed is about a grand, that is a lot of my life for a grand.

Brian

Re: Wife's 48
 

I am repairing the bedsides for the 48, but I got a complete new bed from Mar-K for the 54, although the bed is for the earlier model, Laura didn't want the good 54 bed I already have.

Daughter and family came in for the weekend, but I got a little time in the shop before they arrived Friday.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4848/...c7a5e66a_c.jpgIMG_2103 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I got the 48 sitting on the cab mounts I made. The clearance from the cab to the frame is the same on both sides.

I have a question: with the S10 body mounts on Skymangs version 2 cab mounts for the 48, what is the distance from the front cab floor pan to the frame and from the rear floor pan to the frame?

I backed off to look at it and the drivers side front tire is smaller than the riders side, so the cab was listing. So I jacked the frame up to the same distance from the floor as the riders side and it looks pretty good.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4896/...3eb3397f_c.jpgIMG_2104 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I had drilled some holes in the cab for the Juliano's 3 point seat belts. Wouldn't you know, two of the holes come down exactly on top of the side of a body mount. The next time I get some shop time I'll see if I can move the seat belt mounting hole or if I have to modify the cab mount. I'm hoping for the first one.

I swear, one of these days I'm going to start work on the 54, just as soon as I can get the 48 out of the shop. I think I'm going to have to retire from my real job to make it happen, but I think I'll be a lot happier in the shop.

Re: Wife's 48
 

I like to get the cab on and the motor in to do the front suspension, having the weight on the frame makes it easier to compress the springs, and without a front clip its super easy to replace everything (except the brake line under the engine, if you need to replace that do it with the engine out).

as long as the flat of the floor is parallel to the flat of the top of the frame, you shouldnt need to measure a bunch. the frame is largely flat on top right in the middle, around where the factory splice is and aft, forward it dips a bit.

you should be able to tuck the motor way back with the tall mounts, and get a nice big radiator too.

looking good!

Re: Wife's 48
 

Thanks Joe, that helps.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Well, after some discussion, a lot of thought, I finally pulled the trigger and got the ZR2 rear axle for Laura's truck.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4865/...210b4ed8_c.jpgIMG_2105 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

It has 3.73 gears, a locker, and a 8.5" ring gear. I've seen pictures under the trucks and it does set the wheels/tires out in the wheel well.

I don't know if I'll use the stabilizer bar, but they cut the frame out so I can trim it to fit my frame if I do. Man that thing is huge!

Re: Wife's 48
 

if you have leaf springs and aren't road racing you shouldn't need the panhard bar. if you have really tight tire to fender clearance and worry about tires rubbing when the axles moves sideways slightly around corners then I guess it would make sense. ensure to install with the bar parallel to the ground at ride height for the least amount of sideways deflection as the suspension moves up and down and the bar moves through an arc. this basically changes the total length of the bar mounting points.

Re: Wife's 48
 

That is the first drum brake ZR2 I have seen.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Outlaw, I was a little surprised by the brakes too. It was still in the 98 ZR truck, and the guy checked the VIN for me to make sure. I almost didn't buy it because it wasn't disc brake. But since this will be a cruiser, not a race truck or a daily driver, I figured the disc/drum combo has worked great for years, and besides, I wanted that little extra that axle brings with it.

Re: Wife's 48
 

disc brakes on the rear are a marketing item. they have almost no practical advantage on a daily driver. they look nice on wheels with big windows though.

looks like a nice unit! I agree you probably wont need the panhard

Re: Wife's 48
 

Wouldn't we all be happier to be in our shops full time? That axle should work great.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Thanks guys, and Lower50's, you are so right!

Re: Wife's 48
 

The 48 is sitting on the frame, waiting on bushings for the cab so my buddy and I can go to the next step. So I started working on the 54 cab. Since there isn't enough room in the shop for the 48 sitting on it's frame, the 54 cab and the S10 to be dissembled for the 54, I started working on the 54 cab. I thought I'd get the cab as ready as possible for the frame while my buddy gets his priorities worked out.

When I bought the 54 I knew there was some bondo on the drivers side in front of the door.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/...87655f72_c.jpgIMG_2110 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
It is at least 3/8" thick in places. I took a wire wheel to it to see what I had and got fed up. I'm replacing it.

Then I cut the first patch.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4863/...f52e790e_c.jpgIMG_2111 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Yes, that's a 3rd windshield wiper hole. The PO built some wiper contraption that used that hole. The riders side was just bondo'd up.

Funny story, I took the time to clean the shop before I started on the 54 cab. Now, after the wire wheel on the bondo, it's not too clean any more! That pink dust is everywhere.

Re: Wife's 48
 

ugh. props to the guys who like filler and sanding dust. not for me, ever. two strokes and bodywork, I dont want to work on either haha.


good job keeping busy though!

Re: Wife's 48
 

OK, got to work on the doors for the 54 today. I had some advice from a question I asked in the forum. So here goes.

First, I plug welded the inner bracket for the push button door handle in the 48 door.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7920/...16aa2c26_c.jpgIMG_2122 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I had tacked the outer skin in place and got in a hurry to make sure the push button handle fit right. So yes, I got in a hurry and had to drill out the plug welds, just in case I had to do a lot of hammering to make the outer skin smooth. Turned out I didn't, but I'm glad I took the bracket out just in case. I had to plug weld it back in.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7888/...dd728965_c.jpgIMG_2119 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
This is where I started on the outer skin of the rider's door. I had finished the drivers door when I started it.

This is the driver's door patch, with the plug welds re-done.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4842/...2b7911d8_c.jpgIMG_2124 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
And with the handle on it, temporarily.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4825/...cfbc7db1_c.jpgIMG_2123 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Next I started on the inside lower part of the door. I cut out the rust and trimmed a patch for the hole.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4876/...ee5d930b_c.jpgIMG_2118 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
And then I started welding the patch in place and finishing the welds.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4880/...b5e95bc8_c.jpgIMG_2125 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

After I get all the patching done, I'm going to have them soda blasted and primed. I'll see what will need to be done to them to get rid of the rust pits.

Re: Wife's 48
 

beauty! :clap::clap::clap::clap:

Re: Wife's 48
 

Cool idea transferring the pushbutton outer handles to the older doors. I have a bunch of the one piece glass doors but like the push button handles. I wonder if the hinges and latches line up if you put an older door on a newer cab. I'll be doing a one piece window swap regardless.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Well, the weekend was good to me. I got one door finished and the other done on the inside, as well installed AND removed the power window mechanism and the Bear Claw latches in both doors. The drivers door needs the lower outer skin replaced, but that will be for another weekend.The lower patch took me hours to fit into place, but it welded in nicely and won't need any filler.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7825/...554654fe_c.jpgIMG_2134 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Not the best picture, but it's done.

I also got some cab patches done.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7850/...961be318_c.jpgIMG_2131 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
It is pretty close, I hope it'll finish out without any bondo. We'll see.

I also got the 3rd wiper hole filled.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4821/...f3e21fcc_c.jpgIMG_2133 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
This one will finish out with only primer and some sanding.

Then there were the drivers side mirror holes. The upper was crushed down, so I scored it with a cutoff disc and then pried it up with a screwdriver, very small lifts until it was almost in place, then I welded it. 3 cabs and all of them have the same issue. The other was a hole from something else that the PO did, so I patched it while I was at it.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4897/...51a18095_c.jpgIMG_2132 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
That upper mirror hole will take some more work, but it is almost level now. Several rounds of weld and grind to get it back up to where it is.

Re: Wife's 48
 

I wish the push button handle was my idea, but several others on here have done it, some made their own.

Re: Wife's 48
 

That is a great idea

Re: Wife's 48
 

Progress is one step forward and 2 steps back isn't it? It took some time, but HEY NORCALGAL, I got the face plates on the hinges.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7823/...708b4ee3_c.jpgIMG_2143 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I plug welded the little holes, and they ground down pretty well. This was one coat of primer. I think with some high build primer, they will sand down and paint up nice.

The reason I haven't been working on the hinges is that I've been working on the doors. I have put them together and taken them apart at least 5 times each trying to make sure everything is fitting properly.
First I put in Bear Claw latches.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7852/...3ffa11e2_c.jpgIMG_2137 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I ran into an issue with them. Anybody who has seen my other posts knows that the new Bear Claw latches are hitting the window channel guide.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7923/...942f2b10_c.jpgIMG_2128 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Through the rectangular hole you can see where the window channel guide hits the latch, right on top of the "lever" that goes from the pushbutton to the release.

This leaves the top of the window channel guide about 0.4" out from the door.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7825/...ec32c855_c.jpgIMG_2127 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

This leaves me about 28.5" in the clear between the two channel guides. I'm concerned that this may not be enough clearance for the window channel and then the actual window and frame.

Does anybody have any experience with this?

Re: Wife's 48
 

Hey Jan, look
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4869/...34203f37_c.jpgIMG_2146 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Yes those are rebuilt, primed and assembled hinges. They are nice and tight.

Here is an upper.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7869/...c40b0b8f_c.jpgIMG_2147 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Looks good, opens and closes with spring tension, just like it should.

NOW, how do you get the upper back into the cab? I've got hinge in the open position.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7841/...ab2f578b_c.jpgIMG_2148 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I tried to get it in the cab, and this is where it stops.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4875/...ebdc431d_c.jpgIMG_2149 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I got the spring side in, and this is where it hits and won't go any further. ANY ideas on what to do other than open up the hole?

In the mean time, since I have the 48 cab and doors sitting there, I test fit one of the new window channel guides in the drivers door.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4886/...90d4c144_c.jpgIMG_2144 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Looks like it fits just fine. I tried it in the door with the Bear Claw latch and it still hits on the latch which causes the top to be out about .4" at this spot at the top. I'm not sure I can get the window channel in the guide and then get the window in without binding the window or the latch.

Still looking for anyone who has put the Bear Claws latch in a single window door.

Re: Wife's 48
 

Got the donor truck, a 1985 Chevy S10. Fun facts about the truck it has 2" drop spindles in front and 3" cut off the front springs and 6" drop blocks in back. It's so low it drug bottom going on the trailer.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4838/...f2589728_c.jpgIMG_2155 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Since I have to replace the front springs and shocks anyway, I'm thinking about coil overs again. I know they are more money, but I wonder if they would make for a better ride?

Going to the shop to see if I can figure out how to put the 3rd brake light in the cab.

Re: Wife's 48
 

3rd brake light is a weld in 5" led. It will go in the cab centered over the rear window. I started on the junk cab to make sure it would fit before cutting into the cab I am using.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7916/...0ee783a6_c.jpgIMG_2158 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
So, starting inside I measured to get center and drilled a small hole from the inside because it was easier to find center there. I drilled the hole low in the vanity light location.

I cut the vanity light bracket until I could get both the vanity light AND the 3rd brake light in the hole at the same time. Here is the brake light.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4916/...a4352bdd_c.jpgIMG_2160 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I cut the outside and fiddled with it until everything fit on the outside. Fortunately I have the junk cab to test this on.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4900/...66a56280_c.jpgIMG_2159 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So it will weld in once I get to work on the 54 cab, and I'll have that high mounted 3rd brake light I wanted.

Then I started on the "new" dash for the 54. I am welding up the old ashtray. The black line on the ashtray is for an AC vent.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7884/...b8a8196c_c.jpgIMG_2157 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

There will be another spot for an ac vent on the other end of the grill on the dash. I'm still looking at trying to get a vent in either end of the dash. That is a more difficult undertaking.