Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Dan,
the point of the slapper is that it has a larger surface area and therefore spreads the force of the blow lessen the chance of damaging the panel. It is also easier to find the dolly.

Yes you should be applying upward pressure with the dolly when doing both hammer ON and hammer OFF.

This might help you out on some hammer and dolly techniques...Eric

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=333455

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Teach that skill to enough guys you'll be able to put Bondo out of business,finishing metal with a hammer that you can paint........

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Put your jaw up man its only work.lol Thanks for the compliment.

I told you that you need to use your mind.lol
Thanks

That slapper tool is not my idea I read a lot and continue to try and learn things all the time. A person that thinks they know everything can never improve there skills. I've learned a lot from people on sites like metalmeet and I'm just passing it along like we are suppose to do. There is nothing wrong with filler I'm just trying to do better work with each build.

I also tried a lot of things that I've seen sevt_chevelle post on here and other sites and his tips have made my work easier. The marker idea I saw him do I use to use spray paint and let it dry. I also use to only use hammers. So listen to the guy it can only help.

Sevt_Chevelle thanks for all the tips that you posted over the years I still use them they have help me improve my skills immensely. I'm still trying to get to your level. Just know that people are listening.lol

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

I've been away for awhile, Impressive work on that fender. Good Job!

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Thanks man.

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Thanks for taking the time to read the posts on the prior page and for responding. If Bam says your work is great is must be GRRREAT - Tony the Tiger great, ha ha.

I'm gonna do a quick search on your name and take a look. I'm asure I'll be impressed. Thanks again, Dan

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

looking good i wish i had your skills :) good to see your sticking with your buddys fenders.

That would take some time with the red marker.. i have use the oxy before and just the slowest orange flame and it will leave black soot over the fender.

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Thanks man.


Believe it or not it does not take long at all with a thick tip marker like this.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/7...2626c966c0.jpg

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Once again your skills amaze me!

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Flattery will get you far my friend.lol

Whats the latest on the Chevelle project you have not posted lately? Yes I've been following that build.lol

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

I can do the whole rear fender on my AD in about 1 minute. No waiting for it to dry like spray paint, dykem and no soot falling...Eric

P.S the tip on the Magnum markers I get at Home depot for 3 bucks have a 1 1/4 wide tip and last a long time.

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Its time to hit home depot than. The red one I used was cool but it did not have a 1 1/4 that's huge.

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing2009062.jpg

Sometimes I even use spray dykem because it leaves behind a nice gloss sheen which mimics paint so you can see what the panel will look like once painted...Eric

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...Picture003.jpg

http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...e0072-Copy.jpg

And yes guys you can get a surface that requires nothing but a few coats of primer.

http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/48...600x600Q85.jpg

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

i like this

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

That fender is a beauty

Yep this is what forums should be about sharing info.

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Wow, that fender is super straight.....Jim

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

I never thought of using Dykem for body work.And I did 20 years in machine shops of some kind or another.

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Ok well then, I LOVE you man. Kissy kissy, MWAHH. Bam you're THE most handsome, talented man in the WORLD.

Now, will you come over and do all the body work on my truck?:lol:

Seriously though, can I insert a little something -truly NOT trying to hijack but - you're the guy that has most encouraged me to take on body work myself; directly and indirectly cause I've been inspried by the stuff you can do.

I bought a used little Hobart Handler 140 from a friend for $300. Its been sitting a year and I finally got it out yesterday and tried welding for the FIRST time since (gulp) 1976!! on an I beam I have. The machine had flux core in it so I figured I should just use it up. Here's a quick iPhone photo of my first 3 beads. Middle is best I think. I was "pulling" and had comfortable body position. For the top bead I switched sides and "pushed" while resting my hand along the beam flange. Results are "eh..." Bottom bead I pulled again by wasn't in a comforatble position - I didn't realize how big a deal that was. Feel free to tell me I SUCK as a welder. But I just wanted to thank you for inspiring me to get off my lazy butt

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...lds5-11-12.jpg

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Dan you are nuts.lol

My first suggestion to you would be to get you some gas, you will find that the look are your welds improve greatly. These will aid you practicing more because you enjoy what you are seeing.lol I'm sure you already understand that you don't run beads on sheetmetal and you only tack and than fill in that tack try to keep the metal cool as possible.

My mig is a Hobart 180 which I love.lol

As far as thicker metal and running beads the push method has deeper penetration than the pull method as you can see from you pics. When I thick stuff I do a variation of the push method a lot. I push and at the same time make tiny little circles over the seam. Its just sometime I like doing and not necessary.

I would never tell anyone their welds suck I would only make suggestions to help improve them and share little tricks I've learned and I'm still learning. You never stop learning man. If you goal is to join to pieces of metal together that is easily learned with a mig. But you have guys out there that are true artist. Guys that make welds look like a machine done them. I'm a functional welder who's trying to get better and better.

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Looks like you need more heatand slow down just a little don't be afrade to experiment. BAM is right about the gas, but any practice is better than none.

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

This may help.http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

mknittle,

Did you really have to quote Dan weird first lines again.lol Flattery thats above and beyond. Thanks for responding and helping explain.

Dan,

I don't care about that hijack thread stuff. If people are reading this thread and something they read helps them or someone asked a question that others were thinking I'm all for it.

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Thanks Bam. The ONLY reason I used the flux core was
1. I had it already.
2. I'm modifying my garage rear wall opening the RIGHT way (old guy prior owner hacked it) by putting in a structural steel frame.

Unfortunately the steel I found cheap on CL was huge for this purpose and truthfully, my 140 isn't really big enough for the job so I maxed out the settings and used what I had to practice/see how it'd do.

Yes, I know to tack weld sheet metal and to move around to keep the metal cool. I'm getting a tall bottle of Ag/Co2 this week and .023" wire but I THINK I know that won't work on this structural stuff. Thanks for the push advice.

Now, back to your truck. Sorry for the sidetrack.

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

Lol sorryI iwas thinking about the welding and .......

Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
 

dan, you suck up, i guess i'm the only guy out there that preaches flux core, only because i own one :D
all of my bed mods and frame were done with flux core
like kabwe says, push will work better in most situations, i learned to hook like repeated J welds