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Good God you do nice work
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took some pictures of the license plate holder. In the first picture you can see a threaded hole with two dimples along a radius around that hole. That piece is painted but is stainless steel. The spring pins mount in the plate holder that pivots. the pivot is just a shoulder bolt and stainless bushings. you can see the pivot hole and spring pin threaded hole on the back of the plate holder. |
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Man....me likey that color..
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a spare bedroom full of parts...
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This thread started out so innocently......
"It doesn't need to win awards." "I am going to drive it." "I'll also soon be getting into some areas outside my comfort level, so will be asking for some help." Yeah, whatever. It has morphed into some of the cleanest, sickest fab work on the site. Great job! |
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I meant every word of it. I love fab work, and you guys don't get to see the piles of scrap and mistakes. My wife says no shows, she's driving it! which is all right with me. I like the thinking and fabricating. I am just about done with the work I am good at. When I start the electrical, power steering, air conditioning, fuel lines, and basically all of the systems, I'll be doing all the asking. Thanks again! |
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you are one talented fabricator. I wish I had half your skill.
Can I get some info on your fuel door on the rear fender? I've been going back and forth with grafting a fuel door or using a motorcycle pop up gas cap. |
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I couldn't find a donor fuel door shape that I liked. Plus, I wanted the finger pull to stick in, not out like a lot of cars. The hinge mechanism and latch are custom also. If i did it again, I'd try harder to find a donor. It was a lot of work for such a minor part. |
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Chip Foose..is donanal really your alias?..come on..you can tell us..ha ha
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Now put something simular together for my plate..... I like your shiny stuff in your bedroom also!! |
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All hale "Grand Don" you sir are the best in our little world, you might consider building rides or customers, your that good. This build has given me about a dozen photos for me to pirate them away. Wow Wow, and Wow. Just a simple the "7/8" tapered in the rear cab, what is that for? Thanks for sharing ALL This information. Gets me wanting to get moved and set up to continue my 57 Jimmy 1/2 shorty. you sir are a natural, please keep building and posting you stuff, its out site. Keep on Keepin on Nut Case
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Nut case that 7/8 in the back is to account for the small ammount of taper the cab has.
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Wow! this truck is looking great. Very nice work and look forward to seeing it complete.
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Thanks every one, I'm really thankful for your comments.
Today was a big day! I had friends, an uncle, a son, and a brother up to help put the cab on the chassis. It went perfectly without a scratch. I had previously made alignment pins from 5/16 round stainless steel that mated cab to chassis, so the alignment should be exactly as it came off. I lifted it on with an engine hoist. The guys had to balance and guide it on. |
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Very nice! I would be all smiles too.
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My brother is far left. Two friends in the middle, and my Uncle next to the other door. They didn't get any pictures of me... But I was smiling and relieved! |
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I don't think I showed it very well in those pictures. |
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Fabricating is not short of amazing. I can't make my own fuel door. Since my truck will have Camaro drivetrain I'm gonna try and graft a late 90s Camaro fuel door. The finger tab sticks out and there is plastic involved (yuk) but the shape looks close (in pictures).
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BTW the more you post the better. Many of us will benefit from it.
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Thanks!! |
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you my friend have got MAD SKILLS!!:metal:
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Thanks everyone,
I am going to try and post in the order that things go back on, so here is this weeks progress. Before the cab went back on, I installed the engine harness. Plugged it all in and tossed the rest on top of the engine. I built this skid plate to protect the oil pan. Since the factory cats were just about as low as the pan I just stayed with the factory truck pan. The skid plate frame is 1/8th wall 1" square tubing. The plate itself is .080 brushed stainless.steel. It hangs just about 1/8 inch below the bottom of the pan. |
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this is the skid plate. The dimpled holes keep the screw heads
from protruding, so anything that hits can just slide past. The mount tabs are threaded and recessed the depth of the dimples so the frame carries all the impact loads. (that hopefully never happen! ) |
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The battery box is made from .060 stainless steel. I made
the box a little bigger than stock ( 2" longer ) to carry a bigger battery. The back lid has a lip on the inside and outside to capture the bottom of the box to seal it up, prevent sagging and hold the lid from sliding down. The top lid is .100 thick stainless steel to prevent sagging. The two latches are stainless, and allow the battery to be slid out the rear, or lifted out the top if necessary. Once the carpet goes down, it will only be serviced from the bottom. It doesn't hang lower than the running board brackets, and it is completely hidden once the boards and gap filler are installed. |
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