Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Well, I wanted to work on the truck a bit.. but it was 100 degrees and I just wasn't feelin it lol just one more reason I need a shop.

Got the seam sealer though. Dynatron 550.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I decided to flatten all my welds as much as possible. I spent the free time of two days grinding metal and welding spots that needed attention. Flux core welding may be economical for a beginner but it sucks. I used a whole tube of dynatron, I think I went a bit much and I tried to clean it up and feather it out... I'll have to sand a little more than I wanted but it's all good.

All the patching and welding has really taught me how to weld better. Or it's taught me period. Next time I have a project I'm buying full replacement pieces though, less welding. At least this is solid and will be covered with carpet.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

You are right. It is a learning experience. I didn't weld before I started my truck. I've learned a bunch. I'm now f beginner!

Keep at it. Your floor looks in pretty good shape from the pics.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Thanks, maybe on my next project I'll have a non flux core welder and have more experience by then. I decided to prime over the seam sealer, and then roll on bedliner. I know not everyone here was for it but I like it and I think it'll work until I can eventually carpet the truck. The first coat is covering up all the seam sealer lines fairly good too.

Between primer drying and then first bedliner coat drying... I decided to continue sanding my hood, and both driver side fenders. I had to remove a lot of bondo, and you'd think there would be huge dings or craters, but there was small spots that had bondo feathered out for several inches. I went ahead and primered all three to get a good look at the imperfections i still needed to do. Overall im fairly happy so far.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

looks great. remember that carpet on a floor like that takes maybe 20 minutes to install. dont even try to take the door edge strips out (screws usually rusted), you can usually just tuck the carpet under them with a screwdriver. there are pegs along the firewall to hold the carpet, just a slit in the carpet and it slides over.

for carpet, you can find remnants big enough at boat shops, but really buying carpet isnt more expensive than bedliner, I bet its cheaper actually. the bedliner will probably seal any holes you missed though.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Those screws did break! I removed them to replace the floor. Fill holes and stuff was part of my justification lol I actually think I did ok but between the sealer and the liner I think it is worry free. I've had this can of bedliner for forever, I called company to make sure it was still good before I opened it.

Next issue is addressing my driver door. Started a thread on it for advice, I'm a beginner in dent removal so my fingers are crossed I don't mess it up.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Some updates. We had several days of 100+ weather lately and I've gotten very little done.

I've been seeing brown interiors in a lot of trucks in the projects here and I've been really thinking about going the same route. So I got a couple different shades. I got passenger side door painted and I think I'm definitely leaning towards brown.

A tad more black paint and I'll call the floor and firewall done!

I think I may be painting dash brown before I start to run wires. And I'm finally going to set up my steering linkage in a few days.

Anyone know of any truck pics with a brown interior and green exterior?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I had to see the dash brown and I love it!

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

As I said in another thread, I changed my mind on using the c10 suspension. It works and is super easy to install, and if you buy the right stuff you can suck the wheels in, but I decided to spend money on stock suspension instead. I will get power steering, keeping the c10 gearbox, and disc brakes.

I installed the suspension this morning. I think it will be easy to work on hanging off the frame than in the grass.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

This morning I decided to bolt the trans crossmember. Until now it had just been sitting in the frame, so the drivetrain could kinda rotate. I've been real worried about getting the angle perfect. Yesterday I came across instructions for installing this type of crossmember by drilling through and using bolts to hold it all instead of welding. So I did just that once I bolted it to the frame. Top of carb is level, I know base should be but I have a flat top carb, and trans is 3 or 4 degrees down. When I'm ready for driveshaft, if it needs adjustment, a more experienced person can weld the tube ends on and take the bolts out.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I also started this a little while ago. I hope to get the patch on in the morning.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I like the bolted crossmember, but was wondering how you got the truck to roll over for you. :lol: I was thinking about bolting the cross member in when I get that far.

I have replaced that piece on the 48 cab, luckily the 54 doesn't need it. It wasn't too bad. Good luck.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Lol I didn't notice the picture flipped. This repair has turned into more than I thought. I've got quite a bit of rust in this corner. Driver side is fairly solid so I guess that's something.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I had the same structural rust out, so I patched it by cutting out just the rusted out area, welded in a new patch and then primed and covered. I thought about cutting off the end of the structural, but it was mostly good, like yours and so since it is "out of sight" I just patched it and then put the new skin on the outside. I'll be watching to see how you do it.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Since I'm rolling cab over to get to the floor support, I'm going to fix that back area then. I was going to try now but there's no way I could fit inbthere and weld anything.

Got patch on, spent more time getting the folded door jam area to fit and matchbthe truck than anything else.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I had the same problem, which is why I just patched it.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

A little bondo and some primer and it doesn't look bad for my first body patch area aside from the floor. I think I pressed to hard on the bondo squeegee scraper thing, I didn't fill in the weld area to good and had to sand off a lot all around. I see where I need to clean it up though, I'll fix it up when I'm ready to prime everything.

I'll start on driver side in a day or so. I'm hoping I can patch in a piece I had left over from cowl patch. I'll need to see how far the rust goes.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

It takes practice, or so I've been told. I'm learning after 40 years behind a desk, this is my "meditation". Just remember, my 86 year old dad has told me so many times, "it's just metal, if you don't like what you did, cut it out and do it again." In fact, some of the guys on this forum have told me the same thing.

There are different "fillers". I'm going to use Evercoat Quantum 1 for a finish filler, and Evercoat Everglass as the "filler" for the larger spots. I've been researching them and they seem to be pretty good.

Also, remember to prime before filler. Filler will trap water. Just a thought.

Keep up the good work.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

looking good! I have some repairs in the same area, thanks for such great photos of the work

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Thanks, I used a spot weld drill bit on the floor, well I tried. For this piece I used a regular drill bit and went slow and didn't go through all the way. I probably took 3 times longer than an experienced person but I was real worried about messing up on the body. I wasn't as worried with the floor.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

This morning I started on my cherry picker cab jig. I copied what others have done. I mentioned in another thread that when I was under the truck I noticed my passenger side cab support was rusted through.

So I ordered another, and after getting some advice here, I plan to lift my cab with the cherry picker just enough to roll chassis forward, then set it back down and roll it onto it's firewall. This'll be a perfect time to clean and undercoat too. Here's a pic of cab support and of my jig.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got my new support in. I don't think I'll have much time this weekend but maybe Monday.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I rolled the cab over. Kinda scary lol but it is easy to get to the support now.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I cut the bulk of the support out and I'm working my way down with the pieces that are left. I welded the floor to it and had a patch and well the support got more than spot welds. As an extra precaution, I sprayed some white primer around the edges to the old support before I started. I don't think I can make any mistakes of getting it even a little off.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I had a very productive morning. I patched where the support meets the rocker panel, fitted and welded the new support on and I added some cross braces under where a trans cover would go. I didn't have one so I cut a piece of sheet metal and welded it instead. I think the factory piece has depressions and stuff to make it rigid... I had to improvise with the cross braces to make mine good and strong.

I cleaned up the underside of the cab and primed it in preparation for some high build underseal I have left over from my old job at the dodge dealership. Theres still a patch i need to make but my grinder died so ill havebto get to it later.