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I put the door on and adjusted it so I could fit the rocker.
I had a friend pick up some rockers for me from the Filling Station at the portland swap meet. they fit, but not perfect, you can see most of the issues are in the corners. I finally welded up the lower part of the rear post. |
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so, I drilled a bunch of holes and got out the B.F.H. and the welder and started massaging it in place.
by bending the top inch of the inner lip flat on each end I was able to get it to suck in a little bit tighter, not as perfect as stock in the corners, but it will work. the center fit pretty nice around the front part of the hinge the fitment was poor. I took turns welding (and heating the metal) and then smacking it in place with the hammer, after that it came out ok. the whole lower edge hangs about a 1/4 inch low; body-wise it all lines up with the fender and rear rocker, but there would be no way to plug/spot weld it to the inner rocker, so I just welded the bottom of the inner rocker to the cent of the bottom lip on the inside. you can see in the pic how the bottom rocker angles down a little bit compared to the rear 1/4 panel, I think the stock ones were a little more flat underneth , and I think this accounts for the 1/4 inch that the bottom lip was off. |
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the door and rocker fit nice now.
I am going to use a 61 radiator since I took out the 63-66 style radiator mount. the lower hose went right into the 73-87 front crossmember that I used , so I put in a notch for it. |
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nice job ..stay on it
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Looking good!
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Very Nice!
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been going slow as of late, got the dash painted , heater installed, and the gauge cluster and glove box installed.
found a 100 inch speedo cable at napa/parts plus for $20 that will hook the 64 speedo (5/8 thread) to the 88 transfer case (7/8 thread). some pics soon. |
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modified the 88 sub fuel filler to work on this sub, cut it in 2 places and used some new fuel filler hose to make it a little longer and straighter to fit to the 64 body.
fabbed up a bracket to bolt the top of the filler to the 64& 88 mounting points. doing lots of other little stuff, routed the trans cooling lines to an external cooler , mounted up the front axle vent hose. Changed the thermostat housing to a earlier 60's/70's style that points forward instead of to the side. Was able to cut down a lower 64 hose for the rad. and it fit, found a generic upper hose in the shed that fit. I used the link from a few posts back, and hooked the original wiring harness to the 87's alternator. I used 3 wires out of the ignition harness, purple to the start of the starter, black to the pos. terminal of the starter, and green to the temp gauge. I put a 12 gauge wire from the hei to the hot (ignition/on) terminal on the fuse block. Hooked up the original choke to the edelbrock carb that was on the motor when I got it, also bent up some steel line to go from the fuel pump to the carb. fenderwells and rad support are mounted. A friend of mine gave me a set of dodge camper special wheels, they are 10 inches wide and 16.5's, they have 33X12.50's on them now, and look just right. all for now, I keep forgetting to bring the camera, so no new pics just yet... |
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Good to hear you're making progress Jon :)
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more recent pics:
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Getting closer! Great work Jon!
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the windshield gasket is fighting me!!
almost ready to pay someone to do it, and this is just trying to get the gasket on the glass.... haven't even got it up in the body yet.... btw chrome trim on the gasket then the gasket on the glass, or gasket first, then the trim in??? before I gave up today, I started to put the trim in the gasket, and then put it on the glass, and that seemed the easier way..... I did get the gasket all the way around the glass and started to put the trim on, and the gasket fell off :banghead: |
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...looking at some old threads, and I am seeing conflicting info, 1 even from me saying to install the trim first, and one from lilred66 saying to do the trim second.... I must have read about installing the trim in the gasket first, or I wouldn't have posted it that way....now just :confused:
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previous pics the correct size... could not edit the old post, so just re-post....
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I got the 86 blazer seat mounted in the rear ( a lot more work than that statement lets on!!)
bolted the front hinge through the floor, then cut out the rear latch mounts out of the suburban, and cut and trimmed them and the floor to fit. used the seat belts out of the blazer, and the mounts from the sub (they weren't as rusty, and had a cap over the bolt hole.) the seat fits real nice and is comfortable. |
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/\ /\ ** check out the rear seat on page 7 post 175 if this is the first new post you see!***
spray bombed the post and jamb- picked up this 83 3/4 4x4 parts truck, (dad found it at a yard sale) it has a 3:42 posi, and recently had brake work and tires. the tires will do until I can afford the 33x12x16.5's for the "cool" wheels. again I will switch differentials in this sub... I wanted to have the posi, and the 3:42 is a better ratio than the one that is in it, and most important, I won't have to deal with the RF axle shaft that has an egged out U joint that came from the 88 sub |
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I like how that Blazer seat folds forward.
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I hope it will make room if I ever need to carry something bigger....
I was thinking about this the other day, and the only problem with the barn doors and this seat is if I needed to carry a 4x8 sheet of plywood... but this is to be a winter rig, so really I shouldn't be hauling much more than people in the snow... |
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well, got the windshield in!
It is quite a story.... I ended up with a precision gasket, but the only one available at the time was for the chrome trim... that was fine , because I have a couple sets of trim... I tried to do it myself, but could not get the gasket to even stay on the w/s, much less get the trim in. I called up a local glass guy I know, and had him come out to put it in, he brought 2 helpers, and that made all the difference in the world for getting the gasket on, and the trim in. they put the w/s in the opening, and started, got the rope pulled, got the center set, started on the sides, and the center popped out, then the whole thing fell out... so they tried one more time with the trim in, and had the same problem.... he asked me if the opening had been compromised, but I did not tell him about all the work that has been done. ( I had a feeling that if I told him about the work they might have given up right there), I just showed him how I had cut the old gasket into chunks, and set the window in the opening. so he tried once with out the trim, he said if they got it then they would try to get the trim in , but not to count on it... same problem, got it about halfway in, and then everything fell apart... now I was really getting worried that I might have to cut up and reshape the whole opening.... he gave one more try... this time they put the gasket in the opening, 3 of us held it in place, and he lubed the heck out of the w/s and started to work it in.... long story short, about 40 minutes later and after a lot of bad words the w/s just popped in! no trim, but I didn't really want it in the first place... the glass does fit, and the opening is correct, it was just a real MF to get in. |
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glad you were able to get the window in ,,i have yet to get my window in never enough hands around lol
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rust repair is a b*%$#!!
I have been putting off working on this...maybe I was hoping a good fender would fall in my lap :lol: anyway now this really is a blue/green fender. the green one was pretty rough in the back, top to bottom and the brace rusted... also a dent/push on the top of the back of the wheelwell... the blue green one has a nice brace, and not horrible rust.... just the front was wiped out... so taking 2 to make 1. I forgot to get a pic, but I cut the patch out of a junk bedside piece. still probably better than a re-pop?? maybe... |
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Nice work. Way better than patch panels.
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Thanks for the info Jon.
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Quote:
today I finished welding and grinding the driver fender, and then started on the passenger. I have 2 to work with, and started on one , then changed my mind and chose the other.. then I started to try and patch the rust, and then just decided to use 1 of the patch panels I have , it isn't shaped as nice as the factory, but it will work. I had to fold in the edge of the wheel well, it came out ok, I wish these patches were formed a little better. the rust was higher than the patch, so I had to make a little piece to cover that. |
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Cool build! I like your low buck approach.
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Jon; what is this place do you know?
I didn't know where to post this, but I felt it ought to go somewhere. It appeared today on a Buick forum I belong to. "Yesterday I went to a salvage yard in Whitehall, Mt. and watched the start of an operation that is crushing over a thousand cars from the 30's to the 70's. Over two dozen old Buicks. Sadly I cannot save them all so I'll post this for a friend who is doing his best. The crushing starts Monday morning and will take several weeks. If you have any specific needs and he can help you can contact Peter at montanamopar (at) gmail (dot) com . He does not own the yard but is trying his best to save the Mopar stuff that he knows about and any rare parts of other cars that he can." ron |
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that would be neil fremans auto, he mainly had mopar, but did have a ton of stuff, I wonder if he died, or retired?
he did crush from time to time,but never the whole yard... here is a link to his website http://www.fremansauto.com/home/?sel=TRUE |
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This build is awesome. Keep it up. Nice shop too, it helps to have plenty of room like that doesn't it?
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Been slow with the updates here.
Just after we got that parts truck at the end of August we found out that my dad had terminal cancer. He made it the 5 months that they gave him, but I lost him at the end of January. He was one of the few people that understood my/our vehicle obsession... I will miss all his help and support. I have spent most of this spring cleaning up the place, and organizing, I now have 80 vehicles-I inherited his collection of squarebodys, and a few other projects as well.. My original plan was to have this sub ready for winter... I missed that, so next winter it is! My main 2 expenditures will be a new (custom length) front driveshaft, and a new set of 33X12.50 16.5's.. other than that it is all labor, and since I don't charge myself that is free!! So I hope to get you guy some more updates soon, as I finish out the rust repair and re-do the rear wheel wells. |
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sorry for your lost
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sorry hear of the loss of your father Jon
ron |
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Very sorry to hear that Jon.
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Sorry to hear about your pops man.
Thoughts and prayers to you and your family |
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Jon, real sorry for your loss man.
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Sorry for your loss. Prayers for the family.
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thanks for the kind words guys, I really like the comradery and support on this site.
I've got lots of projects going at once right now, but soon I have this slated to switch out the axles (again!) with the ones from the red parts truck. |
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Sorry for your loss. That is a hard, I have gotten my vehicle obsession and basically every skill I have from my father and love wrenching on projects with him. I cherish the time we have together and I feel for you.
Great build and I can't wait to see it done! I am starting on a 71' 4x4 4bt swap shortly. |
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finally starting to get back to this.... as always one step forward 2 back....
I got the "guv lock" G80 posi rear out of the red truck and got it installed... then the problems: the drums came off the posi real nice, but inside was a mess, the drivers side had some broken brake springs, and on the passenger side the e brake lever (inside the drum) had come apart, and was laying in the bottom wearing a groove in the drum..:( So I am thinking just pull the drums and brake hardware off the rear that's already in the sub.....No such luck, those drums are glued on pretty good... maybe I can get them off with some heat? Or other suggestions if you have 'em... now on to the front....the second step back-:lol: I want to use the axle out of the red truck, the ratio matches the rear, and the axle I have in the sub has a blown up U joint, so I will just switch them, a lot of work, but cheap, except I get the front of the red truck jacked up and the LH hub is all wobbly and loose... so now I'll have to tear this apart and see what I have... along with this, I will need to switch out the red trucks auto locking hubs with the manual ones off the sub. more to come- |
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Yeah, sometimes some heat will help get a drum loose. I assume you have already tried persuading them with a 3-5 pounder?
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