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Re: Shucks First Build
Molded plastic
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Re: Shucks First Build
Put a fuel regulator in.
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/..._165000605.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/..._164917725.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/..._160242665.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/..._185133291.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...5792998100.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...430_212501.jpg |
Re: Shucks First Build
Good to see you back at it and looking good inside there. I don't like the looks of the fuel reg. You have a mech. pump that really doesn't need a regulator and you have a lot of extra rubber fuel line under pressure in front of the headers a leak could spray them with gas. If you look at factory systems on these trucks everything after the pump is hard line and mounted to the motor. The rubber line going into the pump is not under pressure. Modern pressurized fuel line is different and uses different clamps also. I notice a lot of modern vehicles going up in flames when wrecked also.
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I was told by several different people that a regulator would be for my benefit. Without it the truck was running really rich. Im not sure what else I would do.
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If you have to much fuel pressure it would not aloww your floats to close the fuel inlet and you would have gas overflowing from the carb. If that is not the problem the fuel mixture is adjusted with carb tuning. Pressure regulators are usually used when you have an electric high volume pump overpower carb floats. You may need to rejet your carb or adjust you mixture screws.
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Maybe I'll try that. I figured if I set a lower pressure it could fix some situations. Maybe not. I'll try some new jets. My old Holly had 65s and it ran without problems. I believe the quick fuel stock has 68s. I'll look into that.
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Hey I'm back, its been a minute.
So I'm in the process of building a budget on a 5.3, which I have and a 4l60e. My only question is will the fuel tank I put in my truck work with a little modification for the LS? I have yet to see this fuel tank used on any LS swaps and I already have a fuel door cut out in my bed wood and don't want to move it for any reason. Any answers? OR should I just finish the truck then do the LS swap when I finish? I need others opinions because I keep going in circles. http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...BA1E1044C8.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/..._221232503.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...C1FF9DBFEA.jpg Not much has been done since I'm at the point where the finishing stuff is super expensive. Wheels, Tires and Paint... |
Re: Shucks First Build
You may be able to install an in tank fuel pump into that tank, if not just run an external fuel pump. The engine shouldn't care how the fuel gets to it as long as it is the correct pressure.
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If you are keeping the tank, use a Bosch 044 (or similar) external pump with a filter before the pump.
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Hey Shucks, if you get the chance, go back and fix your picture links from the start of your build. I'd like to see the whole story but it gets a bit tedious trying to follow along when the pics are dead. Good luck to ya.
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Re: Shucks First Build
Cool man. It'd be cool to follow along from the beginning. Maybe you need to renew your membership at photoshack? I'm no expert on that stuff, but that appears to be the host of the early pics.
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Back to the body work. This is the last patch I have to do then it's on to the body. Painting the truck myself, Its decided, LS is going to wait till I'm done.
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...D8C546E6F7.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...3CF2ABD78A.jpg I pull the cover off this when I need motivation http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...7FB16B26DB.jpg |
Re: Shucks First Build
Cool truck. I dig it.
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Thanks!
Little update. Got the truck completely torn apart, for the third time... anyone have some good tricks taking the rear fenders off? http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...62A386B8C7.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...107609B3A4.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...74C6478FC3.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...6E07971B58.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...84D9A57998.jpg I'm open to any paint color ideas as well. Same with wheels. |
Re: Shucks First Build
Lil heat on the back sides if you can and a trick I learned from an old guy was a tube of valve grinding compound and put it on the torx bit get some extra grip. for the most part I've always had to grind a few off since I never had a torch.
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Heat is good and an impact wrench will help. Not a 1/2 drive on full tilt but either a 3/8 or a 1/2" with the air turned down some. A sharp rap with a hammer helps too.
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If things get too bad, weld a nut to the torx head so you can use a conventional wrench. The heat also helps break the rust bond.
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Re: Shucks First Build
Scored some lmc vent windows from a guy that never used them
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...8065762E0F.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...5E18B46AD7.jpg Paint decision. Going to grab a gallon today http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...E81BEAC6FE.png |
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You gonna do base /clear system? Nice color
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Re: Shucks First Build
Base coat with the Hardener and reducer mix, and then clear it.
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Can't get enough of it. I can't wait for this!
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...0EAE8FF046.jpg |
Re: Shucks First Build
Hardener normally goes in the clear coat not the base. What kind of paint are you using?
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It's OMNI brand. But that's what they gave me was both hardner and reducer. I haven't sprayed yet but I'll have to do some research I guess. They gave me the Hardner and I didn't buy clear coat yet so it must go in it.
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Re: Shucks First Build
Sounds like you have either an acrylic enamel or a single stage urethane. Neither is a good thing to learn with. Basecoat Omni only requires reducer the hardener goes in the clear. Acrylic enamel or single stage urethane do not require clear They should shine as sprayed. Make sure you know what you have before painting and do some research before spraying. Read and follow any instructions on the can.
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Research will definitely be going into it. My uncle who is a former painter is helping me when it comes to it so I'm having him lead me.
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Glad to hear you have a coach. If you plan to spray it yourself get a few wrecked panels and do some trial sprays to get the feel of it. The first complete paint I ever did was my brother in laws old early 60's Chevy pick up. Glenwood green a one day thrash to prep and paint it that evening. Great practice and it looked far better than before bu a 15 footer for sure
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Definitely would be comfortable on my own. I'm also not expecting a show stopper paint job, it would be cool but I just can't afford a professional paint job. I hope this turns out half descent though!
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Its going to look like my truck good choice haha
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Alright I'm in need of some input. The paint I ended up getting is a 2K Urethane. I told the guy I wanted a basecoat then clear coat and he must have thought I wanted two and two together, so no clear coat. Now this color sure looks like it has some sort of metallic in it and I've researched that Urethane paint jobs can look really good and they can last awhile but avoid metallic colors. Should I see if I can return the paint (which I don't know if that's even possible) for a basecoat clearcoat system or do you guys think I'll be OK to use this paint I have?
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Re: Shucks First Build
What you have is better than acrylic enamel and is a good paint to use. It should hold up well but will be harder to paint than base /clear. The trouble is in getting the metallic to look even any kind of sag will show big time or it can look mottled if not sprayed evenly. Back before base /clear systems after painting metallic colors we could spray a light for of paint from a few feet away to even out any metallic problems but those paints were so slow drying it would melt in and not look dry. Sanding and buffing single stage metallics can also cause trouble as you are going into color coats not just polishing clear. If they will either exchange for what you asked for or at least sell at cost I would go for the base /clear. How clear were you in asking for base /clear is the question?
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I asked for a basecoat clearcoat system with hardner and reducer, maybe I'm wrong with what I had asked but I ended up getting single stage. I called the store and they are accepting a return so since my color is metallic I will feel more comfortable having a basecoat and a clearcoat.
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So according to my receipt I ordered the right stuff just received it wrong. Which is good, but another $200 for clear and high build primer I forgot... anyway enough with drama.
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Re: Shucks First Build
If it makes you feel any better I paid $500.00 for a gallon of base for my truck not counting primers or clear. Welcome to what we have to pay in my business every day. It cost me at least $100.00 to paint a bumper cover these days , more if red.
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I couldn't let myself spend that much on paint... that's nuts!
Well I'm glad I went back and got the two stage. Much more familiar painting like this. http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...047E1D9459.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...F326148029.jpg Clear coat http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...BEA472D91F.jpg |
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