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Thank's.

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A while back I discovered the following pedal installation:

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/interio...kar-pedal-set/

I’m not interested in the Lokar pedals, but am in the clutch master cylinder install. Here’s a picture of my hydroboast.

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I got the clutch master cylinder part way installed. I used a ¾” unit from Howe Racing (524412). It just fits behind the CPP Hydroboost. I hope the ratios work out.

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The clutch is finally working. I discovered that the master cylinder didn’t have the stroke that Summit Racing listed. It was only an inch. First I was worried it wouldn’t work. The cylinder bottomed out an inch before the pedal reached the floor. The clutch disengaged an inch higher. Once the pedal stop was installed and the rod re-adjusted, the cylinder bottomed just as the pedal reached the floor.

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Your trucks coming along very nice!

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Awesome job man...

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Killer work on the clutch pedal setup. Also love the boost setup! That looks like a quality piece. Keep up the good work.

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I finally figured out the top radiator hose. It’s made from two hoses and a coupler. The neat thing about the coupler is that it has a 1/8” pipe fitting intended for a temperature gage, but I’m going to use it for the steam port. The engine side hose is from a 2010 Camaro (AC Delco 22736M) The Radiator side is from a 2002 Chrysler Voyager 3.3 liter (PN 72044). Thanks conman585 for the recommendation. The coupler is a 34mm unit from UPGR8 Racing (U8301-3404). The steam fitting an 1/8” NPT X ¼” hose barb from Earl’s Performance (AT984204ERL).

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Things have been moving slowly over the last few weeks, but they have been moving. The steam vent is done.

There was a set back with the rear end. The pinion has been dripping oil. I had to take it out so the Rear End Shop could replace the seal. I should get it back in the truck this weekend. I hate working on something that was supposed to be done.

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I got the electronic gas pedal installed. At first, I was going to build a bracket the bolted to the mounts for the original pedal however it didn’t seem strong enough. I removed to old net plate so the bracket could be welded directly to the firewall. The GM pedal pad is not the most beautiful thing. Lokar makes a replacement, but at $115 I think I will consider something else. There might be a way to adapt a stock 71 pedal pad.

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The rear end went back in today along with the brakes. Hopefully it won't leak again.

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Hey 69cunningham, I saw in a post by hart_rod that the 71-72 gas pedal swaps perfectly with a 98-06 truck pedal. See post #22 here:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...3&postcount=22

Nice job so far on your truck.!

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Thanks Ken-

I saw hart_rod's bracket. Unfortunately it doesn't work with the late model GM electronic pedal that came in 2009 Cadillac CTSV's.

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Oh darn.

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Beautiful build. I dig your attention to detail. Is your ls3 the e rod package? Are you running a stock front accessory package? If so, was any notching required for the ac compressor?

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Thanks-
The engine was a pull out from a 2010 Camaro with 4 miles. An LS7 swap was done. The accessories are CTSV ones. No notching was done, but the fittings are tricky. I bought some parts that almost work. They will require a bit of machining.

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Thanks. I have a line on a 2010 ls3 with 14,000 on the clock. Going to use a T-56 behind it. I was thinking of using the vintage air front runner. Did you finish your wiring harness? I've heard that Painless makes a nice one that is easy to deal with. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

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I’m using the GMPP 19201861 controller kit. It includes the wiring harness, computer and many of the needed sensors. I’ve laid it on the engine. To dress it nicely, I will need to take all the tape and split tubing off.

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I scored today. At work, we had an action of excess equipment to benefit the United Way. I came home with this killer TIG welder. I hope it will improve the sheet metal work. It will likely divert my attention from the truck to get the welder set up.

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Sweeeet! I'm so tired of grinding my crappy mig welds. Good luck on learning your new machine

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What are you going to wrap your wires with.? I saw someone else using some expensive stuff but it sure looked good. Can't remember who's thread.

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I am using Power Braid from Painless Performance.

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There’s been a little progress to the to the brake lines. My Eastwood flaring tool is working great double flaring the stainless steel lines.

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Well it’s been a while. As I suspected, the new welder diverted me for a while. I had to get Argon for it and resolve a flow meter issue. I ended up rebuilding it. Now the system is working. Now to learn how to use it.

I have spent a lot of time, staring at the chassis, trying to figure out how to run the brake and fuel lines, the emergency brake cables and where to hang the battery. It is much easier to look at it than work on it.

I did receive one wheel. It is a 17X9 Rally from Year One. It passed the first test: Does it clear the brake caliper? Now I need to assemble more of the truck to see if it clears everything else. I only bought one just in case there is a problem.

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I think I finally have the emergency brake routing figured out.

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Several months ago I got a 25’ coil of 3/8” stainless steel tubing to use for fuel lines. I didn’t spring for the $90 tubing straightener from Eastwood. A tool that only works on one size material that would likely only be used once. I tried hand straightening. That really screwed it up. I also tried several wooden jigs clamped together with C clamps. This worked a little better, but not good enough. Lots of ripples remained. Today I used the machine shop at work to make a base plate out of aluminum. Home Depot had some wheels used on patio doors. It is a bit tricky to adjust, but the tubing ended up straight. Now there is no more excuse for not completing the fuel lines.

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Thats what I did, works great. I put 5 rollers on though

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Nice work. Coming along great

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Running the fuel and brake lines has really stumped me. I want to run them in a single length inside the frame. I couldn’t figure out how to get the right shape. On Monday, I decided to make a layout table that I could draw a full size template of the frame on it. I taped a laser level to the bottom of the frame so I could measure the different heights of it. It will take a bit more time to finish the drawing and start bending tubing.

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Nice progress on your truck. Just keeps getting nicer!

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I finished measuring the frame and drawing it on the layout table, then drawing the fuel line. I did a test bend with aluminum tubing and tried to weave it into the frame. No luck. The tube got mangled. Maybe the stainless tubing would have sprung back, but I decided not to chance it. I added a bulkhead fitting to the cross member in front of the fuel tank. This way the fuel line can be split in two. There will be fewer obstacles for each piece to work around.

I got a couple of parts to start my intake system, both from Spectre Performance. The flexible elbow is part number 9785 and the mass air flow sensor 9718. I still need to figure out an air cleaner and housing. It needs to pull cool air from in front of the radiator.

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Nice job on the project! I built a cold air box and mounted it where the factory battery was mounted.

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Killer truck & amazing attention to detail!

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Rob-

That’s a nice setup. I have been considering several commercial parts like the 9831 from Spectre performance or the 17-2519 from DoghouseRepair.com. The Spectre unit would require some more fittings to connect to the radiator support. The doghouse part is nice. I like the large filter, but the filter is not commonly available. I think the setup was designed for dune buggies.

The other possibility is making my own housing for a standard filter. The Fram CA6818 looks interesting. It has a 4” ID, 8.5” OD and is 12.38” long.

Since you’ve been running your system for a while, is there anything you would do differently?

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Well I finally got the stainless fuel line bent. What a pain. It is in the chassis and ready to have clamps installed. Once that is done it is time to test the fuel system. Hopefully there will be no leaks.

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Look what my truck got for Christmas:

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Another piece I’ve been working on are the turn buckle adjustments for the rear sway bar. He ones that came from Hotchkis were intended for a 6 inch drop. Since I am only doing 4, the turn buckles needed to be longer. I made them out of ¾” aluminum, 8.5” long. The ends are drilled and taped. To make the turn buckle work, one needs to have left hand threads. Flats were milled to have a place for a wrench to adjust them.

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I did some mock up work with the new AC. I don’t plan on mounting it the way Vintage Air recommends. I want it to be more hotrod like. This means it will be neater. The firewall will be smoothed. I’d also like to get a deeper glove compartment than the stock VA allows. As can be seen in the second photo, the bracket spaces the evaporator pretty far away from the firewall. It should be able to move an inch or so closer. This will require the hoses to be moved further to the passenger side, something like the third picture.

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Been thinking about body work and paint. The sheet metal is in very good condition with the exception of the rusted out holes shown below. Looks like I'll get the chance to use that TIG welder. The rocker panels and cab corners appear to be good. I hope to abrasive blast and use an inspection camera to verify they are really solid.

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Nice work on the cold air box, most people just route the air cleaner into the corner and call it good. The truck is looking sweet!