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-   -   S10 Swap how to (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=632686)

bauto52 11-10-2014 10:31 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
I own 2 55 chevy belair and now bought a 1952 4 window truck out of a chicken house,,it's been there 29 years. I am trying to make up my mind on which way to go with this truck..I do know i want a fuel inj engine and 4L60E,,I do know I want an independent front sup,,I have begun reading all the info on this site and still confussed..Which is the best way to go,,,change frames,,clip frontend,,what??Help,,

User Error 11-11-2014 09:20 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skymangs (Post 6838522)
User Error; The TBI motor uses 2 temp senders. The one on the passenger head is for the gauge only, The one on the intake is for the ECM. Replace the one on the head with your new sending unit. The ECM doesn't read oil pressure, so you are good to replace that sender anyway.

So, to re-cap, leave the temp sensor in the intake, replace the one in the head with the Dolphin supplied one. Replace the Oil pressure sender with the Dolphin supplied one. Should work like a charm.

There is also a plugged sensor hole on the driver side head (near the exhaust manifold) you can use if you don't want to mess with the original ones.

Yeah I may have to use the one in the drivers side head... The one in the pass head has a single spade connector coming out of it with a red wire attached with a female spade... no clue what it's going to... it runs up to the original loom and I haven't tore it apart to see where it goes... I got into doing a little test lighting on the cluster plug today and found that the pin out you posted is different than mine... I've got no pins in 1,2,3 and 4 and 10 are blinker feeds. 16 is ignition + power... Still unsure on just what year this S10 was... I guess I will just start hooking up one gauge at a time and see where I end up... Can you or someone post a pic of the driver side coolant port I can use for that temp sender? Oil I should be good, just going to use the one where the current mechanical sender is... Speedo, I'm going to need to order a plug since the trans has nothing in that location currently... when I do that can I just run that direct to the speedo? or will I need to include the ECM back into the circuit?

Garyhenrich 11-11-2014 09:34 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by bauto52 (Post 6910485)
I own 2 55 chevy belair and now bought a 1952 4 window truck out of a chicken house,,it's been there 29 years. I am trying to make up my mind on which way to go with this truck..I do know i want a fuel inj engine and 4L60E,,I do know I want an independent front sup,,I have begun reading all the info on this site and still confussed..Which is the best way to go,,,change frames,,clip frontend,,what??Help,,

Bauto, I would recommend that to repost this great question as a new thread, you may get better responses if if we're not in this how to frame swap thread.

Code504.com 11-13-2014 02:15 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Edit by Forum Staff

Coldshot 11-13-2014 01:31 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Earlier in the thread you mentioned using acid to remove the wax frame coating for good welds. I have a small hand held sandblaster, will that do the job? Or is acid still th best choice?

Fod's Garage 11-13-2014 04:36 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skymangs (Post 6723952)
Now we get to the meat and potatoes of how this build works. Attached you will see my frame swap cab stands, complete with measurements and pics so they can be duplicated for your build. The following schematic is for 47-50 cabs. These were center mount cabs, you will need to weld a 6"x6" 1/4" plate on the bottom of the floor on each side to re-enforce the floor for the new cab stands.

If you have a 51-54 cab, you will need to remove 1/2" from the "above frame" portion of the rear cab stands and add a 1/2" delron spacer above the stock S10 body mount (this fits between the factory floor braces)

I bend the lower legs out at a 15deg. angle to decrease stress on the side of the frame

both these use the stock S10 body mount bushings above the cab stands.

In both of your drawings the rear stand is 3/4in taller than the front. Am I understanding correctly that these are for the 47-50 cabs? Then on a 51-54 cab the rear stand would be 1/4in taller than the front? Thanks for the clarification.

CaliforniaDaddy 11-19-2014 03:01 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
What headers can be used with the S10 chassis swap on a SBC350?
Im looking at these.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzAwWDI5MQ...TzsKS/$_35.JPG

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301252473208...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTUwWDUwMA...(jw~~60_12.JPG

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330844813420...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzMzWDQwMA...3g!~~60_12.JPG

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150910783321...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

skymangs 11-25-2014 09:02 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Sorry folks, I've been extremely busy finishing up this '54, and haven't been online much. I'll answer questions and post pics of the finished 54 when I can get my kids off the laptop!:lol:

skymangs 11-25-2014 11:27 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Coldshot; I use 71 Camaro motor mounts now. (cheaper), and build my pedestals out of tube steel and 3/16th uprights. And yes. get your cab mounted up before you mount your driveline. You need an inch of clearance from the firewall. That is to give you maximum clearance for your e-fan up front.

Bauto52; my best advice is that either route requires lots of research, careful measurements, and some mechanical aptitude to accomplish. In the end, it's a matter of preference. Some will tell you that S10 swaps are a "hack job", but if they are done correctly, they are very roadworthy and safe. It is important on either MII or S10 swap, not to cut corners. Nothing is more frightening than an unsafe vehicle!

User Error; The one on the passenger head should be between the second and third exhaust port. You can use that one, that is the "non ecm" sensor. That is used for the gauge. The drivers side should be between the 1st and 2nd exhaust port. Identified by a plug. Pull the plug and insert your new coolant probe or aftermarket sensor.

Coldshot: sandblasting may work, but likely it will work the wax farther into the pores. I always use the Muriatic acid.

Fod's Garage; You are correct. on 47-50 the rear stand should be 3/4" taller than the front. For 51-54, it should be 1/4" taller.

Californiadaddy; You need S10 V8 conversion headers. The ones you posted look to be correct, but be sure the drivers side header has the center 2 tubes sticking out. The steering shaft will have to go through those two tubes to the column. The headers should like like picture 2.

skymangs 11-25-2014 11:36 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
5 Attachment(s)
Here are the promised pics of the 54. This is a long bed truck on a extended cab S10 chassis.

Lots of bells and whistles! 5.3 LS efi motor (drive by wire), 4L60E, Hooker cast headers, custom interior, 2 tone dash/fully painted interior, new steering column, 21 Circuit EZ wiring harness, Vintage Gen II Compaq AC, 23" Lokar Nostalgia shifter, Redline Gaugeworks VSS converted stock speedo, Custom Autosound stereo and kick panels, Power locks, electric wiper conversion, bear claw latches, Coker wide whites, artillery's, and LED taillights.

Coldshot 11-25-2014 11:40 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Thanks for the info. So you use 71 camaro mounts on the LS swaps? I'm just wondering if I can figure out a mount that would go to the stock frame cradles. There's lots of LS conversion mounts that can push the motor back to up to 6" or so.
I'll just have to get my body on first and measure I guess.
Do you have any pics of LS swaps you have done?

skymangs 11-25-2014 11:43 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
4 Attachment(s)
Here's some exterior shots. :metal:

My next truck project is Cecil from Oklahoma, but it has it's own thread already.

skymangs 11-25-2014 11:49 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Coldshot (Post 6934320)
Thanks for the info. So you use 71 camaro mounts on the LS swaps? I'm just wondering if I can figure out a mount that would go to the stock frame cradles. There's lots of LS conversion mounts that can push the motor back to up to 6" or so.
I'll just have to get my body on first and measure I guess.
Do you have any pics of LS swaps you have done?

I do have pics. https://www.facebook.com/OSGcustoms
I'll get a thread together on this '54 LS conversion by this weekend or so.

bauto52 11-26-2014 09:43 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skymangs (Post 6934304)
Coldshot; I use 71 Camaro motor mounts now. (cheaper), and build my pedestals out of tube steel and 3/16th uprights. And yes. get your cab mounted up before you mount your driveline. You need an inch of clearance from the firewall. That is to give you maximum clearance for your e-fan up front.

Bauto52; my best advice is that either route requires lots of research, careful measurements, and some mechanical aptitude to accomplish. In the end, it's a matter of preference. Some will tell you that S10 swaps are a "hack job", but if they are done correctly, they are very roadworthy and safe. It is important on either MII or S10 swap, not to cut corners. Nothing is more frightening than an unsafe vehicle!
User Error; The one on the passenger head should be between the second and third exhaust port. You can use that one, that is the "non ecm" sensor. That is used for the gauge. The drivers side should be between the 1st and 2nd exhaust port. Identified by a plug. Pull the plug and insert your new coolant probe or aftermarket sensor.

Coldshot: sandblasting may work, but likely it will work the wax farther into the pores. I always use the Muriatic acid.

Fod's Garage; You are correct. on 47-50 the rear stand should be 3/4" taller than the front. For 51-54, it should be 1/4" taller.

Californiadaddy; You need S10 V8 conversion headers. The ones you posted look to be correct, but be sure the drivers side header has the center 2 tubes sticking out. The steering shaft will have to go through those two tubes to the column. The headers should like like picture 2.

Thanks for the info (all of it) it's my first build so i am reading all. I bought an s/10 and have stripped it to the frame, but still haven't made up my mind to use it,,thanks again

918733 11-26-2014 10:27 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Would you happen to know the specs on those artillery wheels and tires

skymangs 11-26-2014 01:17 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 918733 (Post 6934606)
Would you happen to know the specs on those artillery wheels and tires

Wheels are 15x8 rear, 15x7 front and spare. Rear tires and spare are 255/70r15, fronts are 225/70r15. The spare is on a 7 inch wheel to tuck it closer to the bed side.

mr incredible 11-26-2014 02:56 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skymangs (Post 6934333)
I do have pics. https://www.facebook.com/OSGcustoms
I'll get a thread together on this '54 LS conversion by this weekend or so.

cool.. have a great thanks giving

skymangs 11-27-2014 12:03 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Thanks. You too!

Garyhenrich 11-27-2014 01:27 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skymangs (Post 6723967)
Next is the placement of those cab stands.

Front cab stands - measure 2 1/8th" forward of the oval frame hole just behind the flare of the frame (right behind front wheel). Scribe a vertical line. This will mark the rear edge of the front cab stand.

Rear cab stands - measure 10 1/2" from the rear of the 5/8" round frame hole, or 33 1/4" behind the rear edge of the front cab stand. Scribe a vertical line, this will be the front edge of your rear cab stand.

Note. If you are putting together a longbed (123" wb.) use the 33 1/4" measurement for your rear cab stand.


I have been trying to figure this out, and something must be different on my frame. It's a 84 s-10, 117", std cab, long bed. I keep coming up with 34 3/4", not the 33 1/4". Is it possible my older frame had the holes in different spots?

skymangs 11-27-2014 12:11 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Garyhenrich (Post 6935511)
I have been trying to figure this out, and something must be different on my frame. It's a 84 s-10, 117", std cab, long bed. I keep coming up with 34 3/4", not the 33 1/4". Is it possible my older frame had the holes in different spots?

I have an 84 frame at the shop. I'll do some measuring after the holiday.

BlueJeep 11-30-2014 02:55 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
54 looks great! Where did you find that flex coupling between the MAF and the intake tube(4" I assume)? Also what did you use for an A/C compressor?

Garyhenrich 11-30-2014 02:57 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skymangs (Post 6935866)
I have an 84 frame at the shop. I'll do some measuring after the holiday.

Here is my math on my frame. 84 s10 std cab long bed 117"
Front edge of oval hole to rear edge of 5/8 hole, 43 1/4"
Add 2 1/8" from oval to rear of front stand, total 45 3/8"
Remove 10 1/2" to get to front edge of rear stand 34 7/8"

This should be 33 1/4", where did I go wrong.
I do understand, tack them on, put cab on, confirm engine space, make corrections as needed, pull cab, finish weld, but I would like to avoid any suprises. Great thread, thanks so much for the help.

skymangs 11-30-2014 10:57 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
I just tacked the stands on that 84 frame tonight. I took some measurements to verify for you. Rear edge of front stands 2 1/8 forward of the edge of the oval hole. Front edge of rear stand 10 1/2 behind the 5/8" frame hole. From front edge of rear stand to rear edge of front stand is exactly 33 1/4". Not sure why you are getting a different measurement. This one is a long bed rev cab as well.

skymangs 11-30-2014 11:03 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
The flex coupling is a stock piece from the donor Suburban. AC compressor is the stock Denso compressor from the suburban, in the stock low mount bracket. The truck uses a stock Silverado belt still.

Garyhenrich 12-02-2014 05:33 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Just getting ready to mount my engine and trany, is there any reason besides cost that you choose to use solid welded motor mounts rather than ones with poly or rubber?

skymangs 12-02-2014 08:14 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
I use rubber mounts. 71 Camaro mounts are cheap, and they bolt to the engine. The uprights just replace the stock perches... no way I"d solid mount an engine, makes everything vibrate!

Coldshot 12-02-2014 08:20 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
I've been surfing the s10 forum for a wile and a guy with a blazer got lengthened front control arms from Michigan metal works. They will cut them to what ever length you want. His cost him $1000 for the set, upper/lowers. I checked out there site and they have really good prices if anyone is looking for control arms. But my question now is what do you or have you done to widen the front track width to match the rear width? Besides spacers.
So far from searching a wile on this, Michigan metal works will be the way I go but would love to hear other people's plans.

Garyhenrich 12-02-2014 08:50 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skymangs (Post 6942250)
I use rubber mounts. 71 Camaro mounts are cheap, and they bolt to the engine. The uprights just replace the stock perches... no way I"d solid mount an engine, makes everything vibrate!

Thanks, that makes sense to me now. I'll get the camero mounts and get the engine in this weekend.

I still have not been able to figure out why my measurements for the cab stands don't match yours. I have measured them a couple dozen times in different ways in case I'm reading your notes wrong and can't come up with 33 1/4. There must be something different with my holes, my frame certainly does not match the pictures you have posted, but I figured it was just a variation on the year. I'll just need to put the cab on and make sure there right before welding. Thx again!

Garyhenrich 12-02-2014 10:58 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
I got this great message today:
I think I figured out your Issue with the cab stand measurements. I am sitting here looking at my bare frame right now. Feel free to give me a call and I will explain what I think is going on.
Curt

So I called Curt on the phone, we stood at our frames and sure enough my frame does not have the 5/8" hole in the same place as his. Either way, the 33 1/4" between the two cab stands is correct, but not everyone has the rear 5/8" hole. Thanks Curt, I hope to have my fully restored cab on my s-10 chassis by Christmas.

skymangs 12-04-2014 08:02 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Garyhenrich (Post 6942495)
I got this great message today:
I think I figured out your Issue with the cab stand measurements. I am sitting here looking at my bare frame right now. Feel free to give me a call and I will explain what I think is going on.
Curt

So I called Curt on the phone, we stood at our frames and sure enough my frame does not have the 5/8" hole in the same place as his. Either way, the 33 1/4" between the two cab stands is correct, but not everyone has the rear 5/8" hole. Thanks Curt, I hope to have my fully restored cab on my s-10 chassis by Christmas.

Glad you solved the false measurement issue. I've never seen a frame that was any different (and I've seen quite a few). Now I'll be double checking each frame. That would be exactly the reason I tack the mounts in place until I've verified that the cab fits.

skymangs 12-04-2014 08:07 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Sorry coldshot. I use spacers. A grand for control arms is out of most of my customers budgets. I've built quite a few, and have been driving the 48 for over 2 years. No problems yet.

Garyhenrich 12-04-2014 08:39 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skymangs (Post 6944649)
Glad you solved the false measurement issue. I've never seen a frame that was any different (and I've seen quite a few). Now I'll be double checking each frame. That would be exactly the reason I tack the mounts in place until I've verified that the cab fits.

My frame does not have the 5/8" hole 10 1/2" forward of the rear cab mount location, because of that, in error I used a 5/8" hole about 12" REAR of the rear cab mount location and measured forward. All good now, thanks for a great thread!

Coldshot 12-04-2014 09:47 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skymangs (Post 6944658)
Sorry coldshot. I use spacers. A grand for control arms is out of most of my customers budgets. I've built quite a few, and have been driving the 48 for over 2 years. No problems yet.

What size spacer do you use? I'm planning to autocross the day lights out of mine so that's why I'm looking at that option. Stock lower control arms need to be beefed up to use coilovers or they blow threw the bottom.
Thanks, thought you might be interested in the info in case one of your customers wants to go that way.

skymangs 12-06-2014 12:13 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Coldshot (Post 6944800)
What size spacer do you use? I'm planning to autocross the day lights out of mine so that's why I'm looking at that option. Stock lower control arms need to be beefed up to use coilovers or they blow threw the bottom.
Thanks, thought you might be interested in the info in case one of your customers wants to go that way.

I use 2 inch spacers on most builds. My kids truck has 1.25" spacers. Thanks for the info. Always good to have options!

lower50's 12-09-2014 10:02 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Great write up! It will help get more of these old trucks on the road.
I love the steering column part. Im almost ready to set mine up, but my motor is wider than a LS. How do you get the steering shaft around the motor do you have a pic?

lower50's 12-09-2014 10:12 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Coldshot (Post 6944800)
What size spacer do you use? I'm planning to autocross the day lights out of mine so that's why I'm looking at that option. Stock lower control arms need to be beefed up to use coilovers or they blow threw the bottom.
Thanks, thought you might be interested in the info in case one of your customers wants to go that way.

I used D.O.M. tubular A arms made for the s-10 they are real nice and come with moog ball joints

http://cdn.airassisted.ca/Bolt-in-Ai...r-Control-Arms

Not the cheapest but really strong!!

Coldshot 12-10-2014 02:17 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Same price as what I'm looking at so not to bad for the full set. If I buy arms tho I want to eliminate the spacers if I can.
I love your build, I can see why you want the super strong arms.

skymangs 12-11-2014 12:29 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Lower50's; Thank you. I use a double Borgeson joint set up if the header interferes with steering shaft alignment. With a double setup you will need to capture the shaft near the second joint to keep it from binding. Look at "Rico F. '54 LS build" I have pics in that thread.

lower50's 12-15-2014 01:08 PM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Thanks Skymangs. That looks good I'll have to set something like that up.

skymangs 12-22-2014 12:58 AM

Re: S10 Swap how to
 
Thanks. Pm me if you run into any problems.


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