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I couldn't wait and had to slip the radiator in. Man it looks good in there. One thing of note, and I am sure I'm not the first to notice this, the top inlet of the radiator is lower than the fitting on the top of the water pump. I assume this doesn't matter. My thought are the hump in the hose is now going to be the highest point in the system. It may make purging the air a little tough. We shall see.
FYI, anyone local looking to buy odds and ends from LMC, they gave me a 30% off coupon when I was paying today. I spent a whopping $6 on new rubber isolator bushing for the lower radiator. |
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I'll be in KC in March for a concert. I plan on going by LMC at that time to pick up some items. Radiator looks great. My research shows you need a Gates 21439 upper hose and a Gates 20687 lower hose. Let me know on the ones you use. I'm glad you are figuring all this out ahead of me LOL
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I haven't looked in to the hoses yet. I'll check those out. Thanks! |
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Started working on the wiring harness layout. It looks like the PSI harness is the perfect length to mount the ECU under the seat. My plan is to mount the ECM and fuse/relay panel on the passenger side. The Dakota BIM and gauge modules on the drivers side. I'd like to mount the TAC module under the seat as well. but I would have to lengthen the the harness between the TAC and pedal about a foot. The harness from the ECM is long enough to reach under the dash, so I could mount it under there. I'll just see what is the best route to take.
Fun fact, when you select NO to "OIL PRESSURE WIRING (98-02 F-BODY GAUGES ONLY)" when ordering a PSI harness, they remove the oil pressure wiring completely from the harness. Luckily, the Dakota gauges come with a sender and harness to display oil pressure. Had I known this, I would have said yes to make the wiring a little easier. |
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Nice looking truck, hope to see it around next summer. As for the oil pressure wiring, almost no aftermarket wiring harness companies include that wire since its not needed for the engine to run, and it would only be a single tan wire that wouldn't have the correct end for your aftermarket gauges anyway. Also, don't be afraid to lengthen the TAC to pedal wires, it wont be an issue as long as your connections are good.
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I’m still not sure about the TAC module. It will fit under the dash no problem. I can make a plate to mount it and the Dakota modules behind the gauges. I’m still not sure what to do. Going to work on it some more today to figure it out. |
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How is the harness coming along? Ordered mine this morning...any lessons learned?
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It's been slow going. Getting ready for #3 to arrive, so I haven't been able to spend a whole lot of time on it. So far, everything with the PSI harness has been great. My only gripes are nit picky type things. The corrugated loom is a pain in the rump to manipulate sometimes. Not enough to justify spending the extra $125 they want for the braided loom, but enough to make me cuss a little.
I spent a few hours this weekend and tapped in to power and signal wires for everything on the ECM and Dakota module. I also lengthened my TAC harness 2 feet to allow placement under the seat. I'm going work on it this afternoon and try to wrap up the wiring so I can move on to the fuel system and buttoning up loose ends. |
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Wire care makes a split wrap F6, using it on my harness to get rid of the corragated wrap from FAST
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4804/...147d1dc4_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/2dcvTEa]20181127_104252 |
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I've been using a product made by Techflex called "Flexo F6" for years. It's very similar to what Jim uses, and I get it off Amazon. Pretty cheap compared to the name brand stuff and works really well. They also have other model products that come in different colors, or true sleeves if you don't want a split loom. Can't hurt to have a few options to choose from if you want the braided wrap stuff.
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I hope everyone had a good Christmas. I took a little much needed time away from the truck. Also came down with a sinus infection. Yah me.
So I've been spending a little time working on the mechanical side of things. The wiring was starting to become all consuming so I deiced to take a break from it. Although I did create a schematic of what is left to be done. A buddy of mine owns a shop that specializes in wiring, so I sent it over to him for a quote. He's booked into March, so I will see how that works out. The PSI harness is installed on the engine. I ended up with a set of Taylor plug wires to clear the headers. Fuel line adapters are installed. I ordered a set of Gates rad hoses that everyone is using. Top hose is a perfect fit. The bottom hose will work with some trimming. So at this point, I am going to start checking all of the small things off the list and leave the wiring for last. |
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Are you installing the park safety switch on the transmission? I'm in the middle of reworking my LQ9 harness and trying to figure out whether to keep the switch or not. I have a large grey 12-pin connector in my harness that connects to the transmission-mounted switch. I'm guessing you have a single wire from your PSI harness that connects to the brake switch.
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I did get a new brake switch that supplies the ecm 12v when the brakes are applied and 12v when the brakes are not applied for the TCC circuit. |
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Looks like you used mild steel brake lines? I just put stainless lines on my dad's 66 and it's been a little difficult because the stainless is so hard and it doesn't like to seal without a great deal of tightening. What engine mounts did you use? Looks like you kept the stock perches but maybe used some kind of adapter plates? |
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I used the stainless steel lines from Inline Tube. If I had to do it again, I would have used the steel lines. I had to make custom lines for my rear axle and I couldn't get the 3/16" stainless to consistently flare. That's good to know it takes some tightening to seal. I used the stock small block pedestals with energy suspension poly mounts. I just used some cheap adapter plates I bought on amazon. They are 3/8" thick. |
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Went into the shop and cut down the lower hose and it fits perfect. I had to flip it around to make it work. The direction I thought it would fit was actually backwards.
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Hoses look good. Did you go with an overflow tank for your radiator?
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Sorry, I haven't updated in a while. We are expecting a baby tomorrow. I've been scrambling trying to get everything in order for that. I have been able to work on the truck hear and there. I decided to back burner the wiring until the end. It was consuming too much time that I needed to be spending on mechanical items. Just about everything is buttoned up on the engine. I broke out the cherry picked to center and align the engine and trans. It is all torqued down now. Once I get it on the lift, I am going to check the driveshaft angles and make adjustments as needed.
I also did some measuring on the brake booster pushrod length. The Tuffstuff booster comes with a short and a long pushrod. Initially, I was going to use the short in conjunction with the Wilwood bullet. But after measuring, I found that the short pushrod/bullet combo was actually .046" too long. The long pushrod measured in at .065" short. After talking to Wilwood, the recommend .062" play so the long pushrod is the way to go. I talk a little about it in the video below. I am officially at a standstill for a few weeks. I've got to help my oldest with his pinewood derby car. His race is on the 26th so we've got to get cooking on that. |
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Congrats on the baby! Don't build a pinewood derby truck...they look cool, but go too slow....ask me how I know.
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Congratulations on the baby! |
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Did you have the baby? Hope all is well
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Congrats! Hope you get some sleep
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I’ve been slowly working on odds and ends on the truck. Going to work on some wiring tomorrow.
Tomorrow is the big day for my oldest. This is the truck he built. I helped him with some of the prep work on the paint and locating the weight. He did the rest. We shall see how it does in the morning. |
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Boy that brings back good memories. Post up the results and some more pictures if you don't mind...;)
Brian |
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I just feel like it should have been painted red and white! LOL. 3rd isn’t bad at all for a truck.
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Amazingly clean truck man! Glad to see the progress, I actually remember seeing you post this thing on KCSR when you got it!
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I'm falling behind in here. I've been working on the truck as much as I can. I am finally making progress. The last year or work is finally starting to pay off.
The motor is all but buttoned up. Fuel tank is mounted. Final wiring has been sorted and started. The big items are the fuel lines, transmission lines, and finishing up the wiring. I am going to tackle the wiring first to get it done. I have a plan and all of the parts in hand or on order. I am going to use relays and parts that I mostly had on hand to get it running. Then down the road, re-do it with the nice Bussmann relay center. Here are the latest videos on the build. Thanks everyone! |
Re: 1972 SWB Build
Spent some time this weekend sorting the wiring out on the interior. The LS harness is not integrated with the truck and Dakota module and every which way in between. It took a few hours, but it is almost complete. I ran in to a little bit of a snag with the PSI harness and poor crimps. The trigger wire leading from their fuseblock broke free. After some investigating, half of the crimps inside the fuse/relay assembly are no bueno. I am going to de-pin it and fix them all. I think I am also going to bypass the fuel pump relay in the PSI harness and use my own in the engine bay. The terminals they send with the kit are not large enough for the 10ga wire I am using. I did find the appropriate terminals online, but I think I may use one of my heavy duty relays that I am using for the fans and headlights. Keep the high load relays together. Still not 100% yet thought.
Sometimes, I think my anal retentiveness gets the best of me. I can't leave well enough alone. Here is a little video of this weekends progress. |
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