Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
I'm running spindles and mmw control arms. looks like you might have to notch the control arm for steering shaft?
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
I've been trying to stay cheap through the whole thing. and I have 7k into it
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
One of a kind is "priceless"! In my neck of the woods it sure would be...
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
I went 1.5" and when I realized that I'd need to notch the control arm I ordered a no limit R&P kit. I don't like spending $1k on a single component but for the amount of work it would take to DIY a R&P I think it's worth it.
Whether the no limit kit will work with a pancaked crossmember is yet to be seen... |
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
Yeah I think if you're fine with the stock steering there's no need to go R&P -- in my case I was going to convert in the future anyway, and just didn't want to waste the effort getting the stock steering to work now only to upgrade it later.
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
Nvm
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
The X-member on my dually is notched 1.5" (89 Square body). The lower a-arms are PB 1" forward units but I originally had the modified OE lowers moved forward .750".
My set-up did require the small notch to the upper driver a-arm as mentioned. MMW uppers & later model OE uppers also had too large of an OD @ the bushing area & would not have cleared (I still have the MMW arms sitting in a box on the shelf three years later :rolleyes: ). When I'm air'd out, I can slip a slim piece of cardboard between the shaft/notch (like a spiral notebook cover). |
Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
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I opted for Porterbuilt arms as they would swap right in place, had the forward placement option, & already had a tab for a sway bar (I still had to figure that out for the modified factory lowers as the original mounting position was no longer an option). |
Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
I too tried this and failed. Now i have to make my own motor mounts for my 292 :(
nevertheless, it is an awesome write up |
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
well it isnt a complete failure cus it looks cool and i made it work but im having a hard time leveling the engine and making motor mounts. So i went to put in a spare c20 cross member i had and its not the same. they are different
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
they bolt on just fine the problem is that i too have to section them as well to bolt on to the motor...
unless i make up the difference from the frame to the engine with some square tubing which i found out about yesterday Quote:
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
I think the issue is when you raise the steering up to keep the stock geometry. That's the problem I ran into with mine. My crossmember was sectioned 2" and raised the steering the same. I had to move the engine up to clear the drag link. When I had the 292 in it, I spaced the mounts up about 1.750" and chopped some of the oil pan. I've now switched to an LS and had issues with the crank pulley hitting the drag link. I have the mounts spaced 1.5" and used dirty dingo sliders on square body clamshells. It took some moving around but I think I have the engine in a spot that they can coexist peacefully.
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
I didn't move the steering. I also limited things to 1.5" to avoid the domino effect. These trucks had geometry issues w/o modification. I didn't notice steering related issues until my Dually. But, that's my fault as I was super agressive on Caster (7-ish).
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I've seen how they did their initial set-up for their R&P kit (notching the x-member @ the rail area only). I didn't think sectioning an x-member as described within this thread would work w/the NL R&P kit. |
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Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
what happened to the pics they dont show up:(
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