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Re: Shucks First Build
Inside of panels usually gets one coat of clear but also a shot of paint down inside the panels if it is my own. When I have a panel off one of my own vehicles I take left over paint from other jobs and spray inside till it comes out between the welds and out the drain holes. Then use the correct color for painting the inside that shows.
Glad to see you have the paint situation squared away it is looking good so far. |
Re: Shucks First Build
Minor update.
Degreased the whole cab and got the windows out. http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...5D0D61EAD0.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...D2239A6EE1.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...261B9D4396.jpg And so far these fenders absolutely suck to remove http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...4F7E694AF1.jpg On the other hand, these dried nicely. http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...B4140433E3.jpg |
Re: Shucks First Build
Looking good , It would suck trying to paint the bed with the fenders on too so get them off. Do you have access to am impact driver. It is a hand held thing you put your bit in engage the screw twist and wack it with a hammer. If you are hitting it hard enough you will probably wack your hand a time or two but they do pretty good at breaking them free. If not soak with penetrent and an impact gun with the pressure turned back a bit
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If tossing the fenders just cut the fender off close to the bedside,heat the welded in nut with a torch and the bolts will come out easy.
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Full day of sanding, bondo, sanding, welding, and sanding.
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...C673123011.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...FEEC1C98D3.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...07BE72757B.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...794AAE4D84.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...900DFB9D8C.jpg Snagged a good door to replace that p.o.s aftermarket door I thought was good. http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...8403742B81.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...22F1EED0FC.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...B6D3782900.jpg |
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Making good progress. Who's shop is that ? nice a spacious
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Lord knows I wish I could say it's mine... it's my uncles. It has a little spare room I probably should move into considering how much time I spend there. Nice and heated as well.
This is his 1980 he and his son did a while ago just never finished. http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...68D17989F2.jpg |
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Anyone done this tire and wheel package? The rear backspacing seems much but I'm curious if anyone thinks these would work on my stepside
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...262B4649B9.png http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...A0F0BA5C25.png |
Re: Shucks First Build
Based on the wheels I used on the '82 stepside I built a few years ago, I would find some 1/2" spacers to run that rear wheel with the 5.75" back spacing. We had a 5.5" BS and used a 1/4" spacer and pushed in the inner bed side about 1/4". We ran a 315/35-20 tire in the rear, so a 295/40-20 tire would look good too and give you about 10mm more clearance on the inside.
Use a spacer like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-1-2-Che...FWO6yD&vxp=mtr You might need to get longer wheel studs to make up for the spacer. We used a Dorman replacement stud that was longer. I will see if I can find the one we used. Look at the pic in my "Sunburn" thread in my signature. |
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Cool, thanks for the links. I dig those wheels you and Korbin put on that truck, that thread is also a big inspiration, you guys did a fantastic job on it. Looks like mine will be looking really close to how his is!
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Just keep on keepin on... endless work.
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...4D8B98F1BC.jpg Bye bye holes http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...1D9930DB04.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...B98EEBBC_1.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...2C5E69CA9D.jpg |
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Finally got this taken care of...
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...7ABB56D582.jpg Can you see why these needed to be removed? http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...A60C1B8D30.jpg Both sides are done, only pic I have. http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...2E717F64B9.jpg |
Re: Shucks First Build
I feel like I should have a huge update since I've got hours and hours in this body work but it sure doesn't show it. I had a professional painter come out and take a look and his biggest thing he told me was I wasn't spreading my filler past the damage or the weld wide enough. Sure I covered the dent but it didn't flow into the body correctly. So basically I have to start again... I've probably got my over 100 hours in it and I can hardly tell it...Bummer
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...959A765C02.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...58A508F36E.jpg |
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Effort = Results A sign I saw on the wall in Roger Penski's office when he did a TV interview. Keep at it you will get better as you go.
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That's how you learn, looks great so far though!
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You dont have to start over, you have to finish up what you started. Some of those areas could be improved with a liberal dosage of filler primer.
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I see a lot of time and work put into it so far. Body work is one of the items that takes the longest time to see actual results. Spending the time on prep and body work will show in the final paint job. The actual color spraying is only about 5-10% for the finished job.
One suggestion that I could make based on what your pro told you. Don't "start over". I would spray a couple of coats of a high build primer such as Slick Sand, apply a light coat of a contrasting primer color or guide coat. Block it out with a long board and 180 grit paper. The guide coat will show you the "low" spots and the "high" spots will be all the way thru the slick sand. This will show you where to apply a light weight feathering filler to the low spots and repeat the process. Take a look at the last few pages of this thread, it is a great source of pics of the process I just described: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=386569 You are doing a good job, don't give up hope! |
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I feel your pain slightly. I am just doing body work on a couple patches right now and it just seems to take forever to see any results. I am not even expecting good results. I am just taking care of some rust spots so I can get mine inspected soon. I am not looking forward to final body work and paint prep. That is still a ways off for me.
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x2.. Hit your repair areas with a couple good rounds of Slick Sand, and hit it with 80 on a long block. Levels er out goooood.
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Been sanding bondo for a living since 1974. Putting primer on before the filler is straight is a waste of materials. Use guide coat or just lightly spray with black spray paint form about 18'' away that will show where you need more filler. Primer is for smoothing out sand scratches not straightening panels.
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Thanks for the replies guys. It all helps to get a little motivation! I got a ton done in the last couple of days. Long days of sanding and spreading but honestly feel really comfortable where I'm at. Three quarts of body putty later and The roof, doors and fenders all turned out way better than I planned. Did the guide coats and fixed a lot.. Guide coat saved my butt! After I finish sanding this red door I'll be priming the cab again, doing the fenders and doors and getting it ready to paint.
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...06C81BD470.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...A051DC694C.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...0F094C7434.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...8FADA324BE.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...D12CDC4376.jpg How I have to drive home every night because I'm a fright. http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...BBF59783C0.jpg |
Re: Shucks First Build
Proves you can't beat youth and enthusiasm . Looks like you been working hard.
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I was able to throw some clear on it this morning.
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...66BF1ABCBF.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...694811254D.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...F2729CCDF1.jpg |
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I would have gotten the rest of those parts in primer before assembling A lot less masking
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After doing this for over 40 years I look for ways to save on material costs. The less I spend on materials the more I make or the less I have to work. Tape and masking materials add up plus the added time to mask. I use bed sheets instead of plastic sheeting to cover cars also as it not only saves money but much less trash. I work alone and only have to empty my shop trash can about every three weeks as all paper and cardboard goes to recycling.
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Cape Codder has a good point. I would add to that by saying, since you cut in the front fenders and the inside of the cab...I would get the inside of the doors cut in and the jamb area of the doors painted before rehanging them on the truck.
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Well I appreciate the advice, I don't get much, not many people I know do this type of stuff so, I appreciate what I can get. I know I've spent way more time and money than I should have on stupid mistakes and other errors.
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Spraying metalic color you do want to mount the doors and fenders before final painting so the color and metalic match up. But You can paint the inside of the doors and jambs before hanging them. as just posted. Much easier to paint the hinges and pillars this way.
You are doing a great job for your first time. Most body guys spend a few years as an apprentice to get to what you are doing now.. |
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Well again, thank you for the complements and critiques, I appreciate i all. I will paint the jambs and the insides of the doors off like this. It does make more sense to do it this way. Now, when I get it color in the jambs, do I clear coat it now? Or do I clear it when I'm finished and clearing the doors?
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...E08BD56C6C.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...FC07E2694C.jpg Everything's finally ready to be sprayed, finally. Tomorrow will be good. |
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I clear as soon as the base flashes of or dries to the touch. Anywhere from 15 minutes to a half hr. Keep in mind you are not nor should you sand the base so it is a chemical bond not a mech. bond as in sanding . The drier the base the less the clear can grip it. I don't even give the gun a good cleaning between, a quick rinse with reducer and pour in the clear.
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Cool, good to know. I did try to sand the base coat when I did the inside, not knowing that wouldn't work, I then had to re-do under the back window... live and learn.
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Not sure what your using for paint guns, but I can offer some advice. Harbor Freight has a HVLP mid size gun that at atomizes very nicely. I used a 20% off code and bought an extra gun cheaper than a 12 pack of disposable cups.
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