Re: 1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"
i'd have taken the box anyway. the fenders look really good. a long box is easily shortened but I would likely just keep the fenders and do an ad for the rest. lots of guys looking for a deal on a tailgate or box sides etc. if I get a deal I usually take what I need and pass along the deal to the next old truck guy. it keeps the old trucks alive and I usually make coffee money too. the box fits up to "66.
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Re: 1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"
yep, another old truck guy will be happy for sure.
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Well I don't have a working Transmission yet, but that wont stop me from making progress.
Time to mock up an exhaust. I got some downpipes from the junkyard, and had to cut one and re-angle it. I added a little pie-cut pipe slice to the gap and it angled much better underneath the truck I bought 2.5" kit on ebay and ended up using only the straight pieces, so far.. I may end up needing little else depending on where i route this exhaust to exit. I read that an H Pipe produced a better sound and I liked that it created a one-piece back half of the exhaust. It came with a spare 24" tube that was the perfect amount to join to the manifold downpipes I made, just using 12" sections for each. I bought some Magnaflow straight-through mufflers... even on this little 4.8L it sounds awesome. Check out the Amazon Used deals... I got one for $40 and it was damn near new. I used some clamps to connect it up to the downpipes so it can be removed if needed, and I have the mufflers just up on jackstands for now, while I figure out what I want the hangers to look like. I like the Welder Series hangers, and may go that route. |
Re: 1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"
The h pipe does make it sound a little better. I noticed just a hair more torque down low, too. For me the best part was that it saved my driveshaft…short time after putting it in I lost the front u joint on a 1-2 gear shift. The driveshaft landed on the h pipe instead of the ground and all I needed was a new yoke, u joint, and rebalance.
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Re: 1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"
looks good. will you also install downturned tips to keep the heat and oxidation from exhaust gasses to a minimum?
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But bare minimum, i'd add some tips pointing down, yes. |
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I also got the mounts for my Champion LS Swap radiator relocated, FINALLY. By removing them and rewelding them here, it creates a mounting point for the 94-96 T-Bird Dual Speed Fan and at the same time, it sets the radiator much closer to the grille and away from the water pump pulley...
I still need to do some final fitment, bolt it on, etc but I'm pretty happy with this little modification...solved two problems at once! |
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Holy moly! I had to do the exact same thing on my Champion radiator like a decade ago! Thought maybe mine was a fluke but apparently they are all made that way.
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exhaust contains causic stuff, so if you dump out straight at the axle expect to see rust behind the dump out area. a rear exit would be optimal but you gotta do what you gotta do.
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I’m in the process of fitting a champion radiator into my 1957 with Camaro clip and original truck core support, what’s the magic number the radiator/cap can be above the core support without causing hood interference. Thanks JT from SC |
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The radiator upper tank stuck up above the core support by at least 4" maybe 4/12". This is from memory I sold my Chevy to Dave and he has since flipped it . Of course the '58-'59 is another story . Its front sheet metal is 4" longer leaving more room in front of the engine also the hood is a different shape . So as 'Rosanna Danna' would say "Never Mind" . Hi Dave :) |
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Hi Dave, while this section is about Radiators and yours is a '58 .
OldTruckWelder asked about rad. fitment in his '57 . So If you don't mind I'm going to address this and what I saw and what I'm going to use in my '57 GMC . I am using the 55-7 Chevy core support and a Camero rad and electric fan like the ones pictured below . Now back to you Dave :) |
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...yeah whatever Glenn said up there. Going with that (= |
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Definitely getting crowded up front.
Didn’t really want the hassle of finding all the new brackets by changing to a short shaft water pump. Can move radiator up but not 100% sure how much before it interferes with hood. Apologies.. not meaning to highjack this thread.. just trying to get accurate info from craftsmen that already solved the problem recently. Thanks |
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Working on replacing the bottom of the passenger door....with this crappy dynacorn patch. It's more.. reminiscient of a door bottom, but it leaves MUCH to be desired.
The hole for the hinge was WAY off, and that entire area is recessed on the factory, but not on the patch. I left as much of the door as I could, and I had to bend the patch further where the moulding sits... it just stuck out at a 45 degree angle?? |
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You can see how bad the hinge hole is here. After much fussing, cutting, adjusting, and cursing, I got the patch in. I also patched up the opposite corner and didn't worry about perfectly grinding the tacks... that will all be under weatherstripping.
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Re: 1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"
in the last pics it looks like the lower hinge mounting nuts have cracking around them. is that just the pic or are they actually cracked there?
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Re: 1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"
old truck welder, one thing you could do is install a fan system with 2 fans instead of a single.
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Personally, I think you should do what I did and relocate your radiator mounts to set the radiator further inward if there is space there. But drilling new holes to raise the rad is certainly faster, cheaper, and easier. |
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Unless you've pancaked the hood, and I mean a lot, these trucks have a big ol nose on them. Look at the air filter box I built for mine and locate the radiator cap. Mines nowhere close to hitting. I think you could easily move a radiator up an inch or two to get clearance. Your next problem might actually be having to change radiator hoses depending on how much slack you have.
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Decided that in order to make space for the intake, I needed to lower the radiator by drilling new holes, exactly like we were talking about for Oldtruckwelder. Worked like a charm, was fast, east and free!
The radiator still sits above the frame rails and bumper, I feel good about it. |
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Used parts of a $50 ebay intake from 2000's truck to mock up the intake and MAF. I've seen folks put these MAF sensors directly on the throttle body (where I had mine stored) , and they're supposed to be some ways away, in a straight section, with at least 3" of straight tube behind them.
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Right, maf should be where air has a chance to flow straight through without turbulence. Sometimes convenience dictates otherwise. Computer weighs the air through the sensor, gets an ambient temp reading of the incoming air, compares that to engine temp and throttle position, then signals injector response accordingly. Backed up with o2 sensor readings over time.
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Also completed the front clip wiring.
I added the distribution block and fuse setup that I had installed on the old front clip, finished up the wiring to the lights using the factory plugs and new connectors, and loomed up everything as best I could. This supplies fused power to the fan relays and the headlight fuse relays. I also added a weatherproof quick disconnect from the cab to the clip... factory harnesses had this feature, but the aftermarket EZ-Wire kits leave you to sort that out on your own. this 6-prong Delphi Weatherpack connector was perfect for the job. |
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My passenger side Hinge pocket area was a total mess, so in order to get a door back on here, I needed to address this.
I patched the front, and cheated a bit by cutting off the lower portion that folds under the step, and just welded it at the seam and ground the welds into the corner. Saved a ton of headache! Then I decided to make my own inner pocket patch... that took quite a bit of work and head scratching! This is NOT a convenient place to make a template OR test fit! I got it done... its not pretty but its working. |
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The view from inside. I could definitely make the argument to use some seam sealer in here, as I couldn't reach everywhere to weld and there are some fitment gaps I chose to live with, but better than the unwanted ventilation!
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Don't forget to remove and replace your cowl dirt annually! 1000 taps with a hammer will help remove the old dirt and sand so you can replace it with fresh dirt.
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I had bought the after market hinge pocket covers. Boy that was some metal origami to fit them in place. Reminds me I still need to get under there and clean up the welds.
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I have done a few of those. Best to scribe above the cut somewhere, get a dimension from that mark down to the floor, also get a pattern cutaway of the contour for the outside where the weather strip seals. Write it all down or take pics etc. THEN cut the old part out. Otherwise you just do it by guess or by golly and hope for the best.
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those hinge pillar parts are available but too late now, you got it fixed.
I would spray the area with some cold galvanising, sometimes called weld through primer. high zinc content. then the seam sealer here is a link to that part that you fabbed up https://aapd.net/door-hinge-pillar-p...y-pickup-55-59 and the other part https://aapd.net/door-hinge-pillar-p...y-pickup-55-59 in case a lurker is also needy |
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inside the cowl, above the opening for the inside vent, is a built in evestrough looking affair that directs water to each side of the vent opening. this usually is full of dirt, pine needles, leaf compost etc. I usually remove the vent drain plug from the bottom of the cowl, it is sort of a flap of steel screwed on, then i run the garden hose full blast down from the top opening in front of the windshield. you may end up with some water on the floor inside . you can also stick the hose into the cowl from the interior vent and get it to go towards the bottom to flush that drain hole. if you have never seen the inside of the cowl let me know if you wanr some pics with the innee cowl part removed
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