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Re: '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up!
lucky dude I would say (coming from a retired professional firefighter). lots of people have tried to extinguish a fire themselves and get badly injured before they call 9-1-1.
maybe good to put those fans on a maintenance schedule, like changing the batteries in the smoke detectors, checking the expiry date on the CO detectors, etc. |
Re: '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up!
Wow! Very lucky you were there and found it quickly.
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Finally got the Hydroboost & brakes done. Also switched back to the original style radiator, just hate that there wasn’t enough room to mount the fan behind it.-
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Re: '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up!
I seem to remember that some guys mount the rad on the front side of the rad support to allow a little more room for a pull style fan. kinda late for that now I suppose, and not sure now if that would also mean trouble with rad hoses or some other interference issues
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Re: '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up!
Yeah, I did that with the other engine and it worked out fine. I had to get a new rad support and didn't elect to go that route this time. Getting lazy & didn't want to modify it. This one supposedly eliminates the strut rods.
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Re: '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up!
I love how you clocked the hydroboost so the lines would come out of the bottom instead! Smart.
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Speedway says their column bolts right on to early GM and aftermarket columns, which it does, but it’s definitely going to need a spacer. Otherwise you’re going to have to deal with constantly banging your hand on the turn signal lever.
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Re: '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up!
mobileortho rather than putting a spacer i think if you take the signal light lever out and simply bend it to come out straight i think you would be fine
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I went ahead and moved the radiator to make more room for the fan. It’s slooowly coming together.
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Thinking I need some sort of deflector to mount in front of this to block water if I’m ever caught out in the rain. Any ideas?
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lots of cars and trucks have a rain blocker in front of the rad support air intake. maybe just cruise the wrecker, or look online i suppose.
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check vehicles with carbureted engines if you go the wrecker on a quest.
mostly, what they are is a round plastic disc slightly larger that the intake tube. it is snapped on or screwed onto the front side of the air intake hole for the engine, it has some standoff legs to hols it off the rad support by an inch or possibly a little more. the air intake hose is connected directly behind it on the back side of the rad support. there is usually some sort of screen as well to keep birds and bugs out of the intake screen as well as the water and snow when driving. iy also keeps mice from crawling up the corrugated plastic tube to the actual air filter housing on top of the carb. so, the air intake is able to draw air in from the sides of the guard, where the standoff legs hold the solid shield away. I know the square body trucks had them. here is a link to a used rad support for a mid 80's chevy truck. notice the part I am talking about next to the pass side headlight. another pic in the group shows the part sticking out the engine side of the support where the corrugated plastic tube would attach. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-Su...edirect=mobile |
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Finally decided on how I wanted to modify the radiator latch cover.
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That's really clean looking!
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for an intake cover for rain and bug shielding, you could look at tge heating/ventilating supply places. they have intake covers for furnaces and hot water tanks etc that are direct vent as oposed to the old fashioned chimney. usually plastic as thats what the pipes are for those applications, but they may also have some sheet metal ones too. just ensure the screening inside will accomodate the cfm of the engine through all the restirctions of piping etc. maybe even a chimney rain guard or something like that. one of these places probably has a supply cata;ogue with pics, or make a trip to home depot, lol.
some are pretty basic looking and you could fab something up at home , like this one used as a roof cap https://www.amazon.com.mx/Builders-B...52909807&psc=1 |
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Yes, that's similar to the one I posted previously. I'm going to have to do some measuring to see how much clearance I'm going to have when the grill is mounted. I may have to modify the airhorn or just mount the larger disc like you said. I found one of those vents with a 4" pipe which is also the size of the filter opening so in theory, I could probably also remove the airhorn all together and attach it to the filter to gain some clearance. Honestly, I think the disc will be the simplest. |
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the simple disc, spaced off the rad support to allow airflow works. maybe a screen in there somewhere for the birds, bees, bugs in general and road debris. easy peasy.
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There’s not much room between the grill and inner fender. I had to remove the air horn but this should do it.
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how much standoff have you got there?
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Finally got back to finishing up the exhaust. These headers are a far cry from the other set I tried. The tuck up nice & tight, can’t wait to wire it up to see how it sounds. Also decided to change tanks, still a 64-68 mustang, but this one is baffled.
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Been dreading rewiring this thing but I'm slowly figuring how to make the Fitech and Dakota digital gauges work (hopefully). Also upgraded the wiper system with a Raingear setup and ran into snag with my stereo. The wiper motor does not install in the original location and doesn't leave quite enough room for the stereo. Looks like I'm going to have to cut the grill to move it forward a bit.
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I also have a Raingear motor to install. When you say "cut the grill to move it forward a bit" can you clarify what you mean? Cut the speaker grill or the grill on the vent? Move it " forward" - toward the front of the truck or toward the interior? Thanks for the clarification.
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I need to cut the speaker grill to move the unit towards the interior. It was hidden behind the grill but with the wiper motor sitting directly behind the stereo there’s no room. I see that LSFab has a nice billet double din dash that would work but it ain’t cheap.
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Came soooo close to firing it up this weekend. I got to a point in the wiring to at least attempt to start it in the truck but a last minute change put a halt to that. I got the starter wired up but with it being a little close to the headers, I opted to go with a remote solenoid on the firewall. I got down to connecting the very las wire (the "S") and over torqued the dang thing and cracked the housing! At that point I just stopped out of frustration. I'll pick up another solenoid & try it again.
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Keep the faith! When it fires all the other stuff will go away.
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been there, done that, know the frustration level you went through. grrrr.
sometimes it can be agood thing though, it gives you time to thin about anything you might have missed. solenoids are relatively cheap and it was likely stress cracked or something. keep plugging away and you will be surprised how quickly you can get stuff done. one job at a time is sometimes best. a check sheet of things to do per job works pretty well for some guys. post up some pics so we can see your progress. |
Re: '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up!
Finally got it to fire up! (excuse the mess underneath) Not sure what that squealing is yet. Think I have a bad IAC sensor too, it won’t restart after shutting it off unless I unplug it, then plug it back up. Happy Fathers Day to me!
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Congratulations! Happy Father's Day.
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Happy Fathers day everybody
Whistle is likely a vacuum leak. Look for a hose connection without a hose or an open vac line. |
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Got the parking brake actuator mocked up. Now gotta find a place to hide the switch so it can double as a theft deterrent.
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