Originally Posted by Bhelton (Post 6455875)

Those cab patches blow, I had to replace my whole inner front section. I guess the worst part was doing all the grinding and sanding over head. Keep up the progress...you'll have it done in no time!:metal:

Originally Posted by Rochlow (Post 6455886)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=454571

5150's build thread using latex paint and Iron B

Originally Posted by Rusbuilt (Post 6455926)

Also heres where to get the info on the Iron B
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=549806

Originally Posted by mcbassin (Post 6456095)

On your paint job, as stated above the key is good preparation. The bodywork is the hardest part and of course the most time consuming. I can actually lay a pretty nice paint job with a $16 harbor freight paint gun if the prep is done right.
With that said, yes buy the best gun you can afford or borrow a good one from a friend. It makes it easier to lay the paint down.

A big misconception about do it yourself paint jobs, worrying about the actual painting.
Painting is the easiest part (if you don't screw up and make runs)(ask me about runs). It's actually the bonus for all the labor you put into the prep work. I learned the hard way about being impatient recently. I didn't wait the correct time between coats of clear and it sagged like crazy. This is very important!

I recommend using BC/CC just because it's a little more forgiving, in my opinion only. You will get a better depth of shine too. (when buffed). Single stage is great for a driver but your truck is far more than a standard driver, so go ahead and pop for the good paint. Red is expensive BTW. The secret is buy as good of a clear coat as you can afford too. The cheap clears can and will look good too but some yellow and some delaminate quickly.
I would happy to share all my recent learning experience about body work and painting. It has been an education, I painted a bunch of cars back in the 90s and I had to learn all over again:)
BTW, I have been being tutored by screaminchevypickup (Kyle). He has been helping me a bunch with my concerns as I go. He make some killer paint jobs look easy!

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10 (Post 6457158)

Thanks for all the info Mike, when you say BC/CC is more forgiving what do you mean by that. I know it is a noob question but I'm just trying to learn. I can't get out of my head that single stage is one less step cause you don't have to spray clear on. Just seems easier even though I'm probably dead wrong with that thought.

What paint did you use on yours? I would like to get good paint but definitely can't afford a couple thousand dollars in just paint. I will definitely be picking your brain as well as Kyles when it actually comes time to paint.

Originally Posted by mcbassin (Post 6457230)

It's easier to get a high quality finish with base clear. Single stage will never give the depth of shine either. Most single stages just don't shine as good even when color sanded and polished. I have been using ppg base coat ands DuPont Imron clear for my bed and will use ppg clear for the exterior.

I used single stage urethane, and acrylic enamels for years and there is no comparison in the shine and finish of the bc/cc. Even with a shadetree body guy like myself.

As far as cost, it's very expensive for all the materials. The paint is high, but so is sandpaper, epoxy primer, high build primer, tape, reducer, thinner, filler and whatever else I forgot. I have close to $4k in materials, prep and painting supplies. That is including everything spent on the finish of my truck inside and out. But if you spread it out over a few years it doesn't hurt as bad. If you keep track of everything dollar spent you might be surprised how fast it adds up.

Don't cheap out on your ppe either you only get one pair of lungs;)

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10 (Post 5546838)

Let's see if this works. Video of the first start. Enjoy :metal:

http://youtu.be/M8Zy_MXD8H8

Originally Posted by checkmate211e (Post 6457279)

Thanks for posting the video! Sounds great :)

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10 (Post 6457278)

4k in materials :eek: I know all the sandpaper and tape and misc prep materials cost money, I already have a lot invested but I don't have the budget leftover for that kind of money for paint supplies and everything else I need to get it on the road. I guess I was being a little ignorant to the actual paint cost. Looks like I'll be rocking primer for a while until I can afford it :lol:

Originally Posted by mcbassin (Post 6457688)

It's not as bad as you would think. I included everything it has taken me to get to where I'm at currently. Sandblast media, welding consumables, gas, respirators, everything......
Basically, I have two spreadsheets-1 for parts (you don't want to see this one) 2 for materials.
It's just something I do to know how much I have spent on this bottomless money pit. Bad thing is, I'm cheaper than probably 99% of the builders on here. :waah:

Love the new steering wheel!

Originally Posted by 67ctener (Post 6457711)

Very cool video. Sounds like a pretty healthy cam, very cool. Way color then that smooth camed Ls you were thinking, haha. I'm also pretty nervous about paint. My ideas are there but the funds are non existant. Great job and top notch this far I know your paint but be just as nice. Keep it up don't get discouraged

Originally Posted by knomadd (Post 6458000)

Nice wheel! I've got the same one in mine and I love it.

There's a lot of good advice in the last two pages (maybe more, I didn't go back and look :lol:) regarding paint. Mike's right about the clear too. Don't go cheap or it might come back to haunt you later. I've seen cheap clears turn chalky in the elements and allow the paint to fade. I'm sure part of that was the lack of maintenance after the paint was done. That saying "you get what you pay for" is pretty true when it comes to paints. The cheap stuff might look good for a year or two, possibly longer if it's well maintained and garaged, but a good quality paint will last a lot longer. The shop I worked at used Martin Senour paint products, which I used to paint my GTO. That was way back in 2001 or 2002. 12 years later and it still looks fantastic.

Originally Posted by Rusbuilt (Post 6458731)

Nice steering wheel bro!

Originally Posted by mikeleeshields (Post 6458879)

Gotta love getting stuff in the mail

Originally Posted by Hardesty454 (Post 6459040)

Love that steering wheel.

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10 (Post 6459436)

Thanks guys, there are a lot of different options for steering wheels. Felt like I was shopping for wheels again :lol: I'm happy with the choice I made, should set off the interior nicely

Originally Posted by mikeleeshields (Post 6465797)

I'm definately feeling you on no paint. By the way I'm too scared to actually capture the cost of everything. That way when I sell it I still feel like I'm making money and not losing my butt lol.

Originally Posted by mikeleeshields (Post 6466349)

Definately hearing you on that. Paint is way overrated when I want to drive mine everyday when it's nice out.

Originally Posted by zicc1835 (Post 6466355)

Hey Keith,
read the build thread tonight took about 2.5 hours to get thru it all amazing journey.... when you get her home maybe i could drop by see her in person..... sure hope you dont change your mind on that dakota cluster:devil: ill see you cruisin on 9 this summer I am sure
Jess

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10 (Post 6468264)

Started working on my hood to fender gaps yesterday. The hood overall fits pretty good but needed some work especially at the front lip on the passenger side, plus overall it is just a little long. First we worked on the cowl piece and got that fitting good. We tweaked it a little and now it fits the fenders and the cab much better. After we fixed the cowl we were able to slide the hood back about 3/16". Now the hood only hung past the fenders in the front about an 1/8".

http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...psb3ed5c36.jpg

http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...pscec03293.jpg

http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...psd54ba320.jpg

We spliced the hood along the edge pulled it out and added metal before welding it up. We made sure to do like 6-8" sections at a time so to not warp the hood. We also spliced the front edge of the fender and brought it out the 1/8" to match the hood. I think it came out great and the hood looks awesome on their now :metal:

http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7d9929fa.jpg

http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...pse9846458.jpg

http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3d19e31f.jpg

http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1a31ba19.jpg

Still have to work on the driver side a little as the hood sits about 3/8" higher than the fender near the front of the hood. If you have seen pictures of cowl hoods you know what I'm talking about.