Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Then I removed the spindle bearings. You are going to need a long punch or drift. I used my Gorilla pry bar and hammer. It fits in the spindle perfectly. I tapped out the bearings with a small hammer, being careful not to scratch the surfaces.
Attachment 755204 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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After I painted the exposed spindle surfaces, I installed the new bearings. I got mine from Superior Axle in a kit with the spindle seals...
Attachment 755208 I had to use a block of wood, a dead blow hammer, the old spindle bearing, and finally a socket to install the new bearings... Attachment 755205 Attachment 755206 Attachment 755207 Attachment 755209 I also applied a light coat of bearing grease on the surface to help things a bit. |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Then I painted the backing plates. I also had the spot welds on them re-welded prior to painting them because they had cracked.
Attachment 755220 Attachment 755221 Attachment 755222 Be sure to put the new washer in with the chamfered side facing inside... Attachment 755223 Attachment 755224 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Then I sprayed the hubs with high heat Rustoleum...
Attachment 755235 Attachment 755237 I didn't want to go out and have the studs pressed into the new rotors, so after tapping them in from underneath, I finished them off like this. I used several washers so that I wouldn't have to thread the lug nut too far. I also smeared some anti-seize between the hub and rotor. Attachment 755238 Attachment 755239 I used a rented bearing/seal installer and installed the inner bearing cup into the hub. Here are the correct part numbers for the outer bearing, inner bearing, inner bearing race/cup, and inner bearing seal from top to bottom. Attachment 755236 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Then I packed the inner bearing with grease, installed it into the hub, and then pressed the inner bearing seal with a block of wood.
Attachment 755261 Then I attempted to slide the rotor and hub assemblies onto the spindles for the next 2 hours and cussed myself silly. They just wouldn't go in. I damaged both seals before I finally gave up in defeat. The next day I went out and bought National seals instead of the "Made in Indonesia" Timkens. The Nationals are made in the USA. By no means am I blaming the seals, but it was actually a blessing in disguise because you can see the huge difference in quality. The side shown is the part that faces inside... Attachment 755262 Attachment 755263 Here was the fix. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!!! I polished the surfaces that the inner bearings ride on with 220 grit emery paper. Attachment 755264 This made all the difference in the world. Unbelievable how the slightest bur can cause all sorts of headaches. The assemblies slid right in... Attachment 755265 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Then I sprayed the calipers with caliper paint before installing them and torquing them to the proper values...
Attachment 755293 Attachment 755294 Attachment 755295 Attachment 755296 Attachment 755297 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Great pics and write up! I love the stance now! How is the ride?
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
nice build!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Great job thanks for the info!!
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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I'll keep you posted. |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Time to rebuild the original hubs. Replacement parts for these are scarce. I wanted to keep the originals. Originals were in good shape with the exception of the plastic dials and the missing gaskets. I got these new dials from Dennis Carpenter. I kinda like the fact that they are Ford models. I did not find any Spicer pieces anywhere. The red looks cool, though.
Attachment 756044 Found these NOS metal gaskets on ebay... Attachment 756045 Disassembled everything, degreased, and cleaned everything up. Attachment 756041 Attachment 756042 I sprayed the lockout bodies in semi gloss black... Attachment 756043 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Bought some rubber fiber paper and made some new gaskets. They go between the outer chrome piece and the lockout body. The metal ones go between the lockout body and the wheel hub assembly.
Attachment 756053 O-rings were in good shape. Attachment 756054 Attachment 756055 Attachment 756056 Attachment 756057 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Attachment 756058
Attachment 756059 Attachment 756060 Don't forget the snap ring... Attachment 756061 Got some new bolts at the hardware store. They were identical to the OEM ones. I couldn't find identical dished washers, but that was probably a good thing since they are allegedly known for not keeping the bolts on. Instead I used these stainless lock washers identical in size to the originals. Attachment 756062 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Lots of progress you have going on down there, everything looks great!
I read that someone one here used to make those dials out of aluminum but i don't think he does any more, those would of been cool to have. |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Attachment 756063
Attachment 756064 Attachment 756065 Got a whole new set of original material brake lines and a combination valve from Inline Tube. I'm very impressed with the quality. They fit just right. I also got a new set of extended stainless steel kevlar coated brake lines from Offroad Design. I highly recommend these to anyone with a 4 or 6 inch lift. I'm in the middle of routing all the brake lines. Attachment 756066 Attachment 756067 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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During all this time I also degreased, cleaned, and wire-wheeled the entire frame in my driveway. Not fun. Then I painted the frame with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and gave it a second coat with semi gloss Rustoleum. The front 1/2 of the frame was really nice but the rear 1/3 or so if it had very rough surface rust. No heavy scale, though. The bed crossmembers are shot, though.
Attachment 756070 Take note of the rear brake line. It had heavy, scaly surface rust and was about to go. Attachment 756071 Attachment 756072 Attachment 756073 Attachment 756074 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Good looking truck.
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
I like how your building this truck to be used and not just pretty. BTW, I am in need of extended brake lines for my 4in lifted k5 blazer and those look like what I need!
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
I just love this truck more & more!!!
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Nice freakin build man! I enjoy watching it! Keep em comin!!
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
nice build, keep it up.
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Lookin great in red! Good work! Are you going to replace your tie rods and ends?
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Thanks, everyone.
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