Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
I grabbed the upper and lower control arms as well as the spindles off a 91 suburban, it is the square body style (looks like 73-87) will these still work? or do i have to go back to the yard?
I drive a 66 gmc |
Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
Yes those parts will work just fine since they are the same as the '73-'87 components. Did you grab the steering linkage and steering box while you were there?
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
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A friend of mine bought a suburban and I guessed the year to be late 80. He said; 'No, it's a 91. I said; 'are you sure? :o I now know :) Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
Yep, the Suburbans, Blazers and CrewCabs kept the squarebody thru '91. These are also refered to as the 'V' and 'R' series instead of the earlier 'C' and 'K' series
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
I think I need to clarify something. The '88-'91 'V' series is the 4wd, and the '88-'91 'R' series is the 2wd.
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
Thank you, I'm going to go grab the steering linkage and sway bar tomorrow. Captainfab, I will be using you're steering box locator bracket so could you please pm me paypal info?
Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
PM sent :)
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
Well, I'm confused...(again) I just ordered a front end kit with McGaughy 2" drop spindles, 1 1/4" rotors. It says I can use original tie rod ends and ball joints. Did I read correctly in the first post that this is not true?
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
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Some aftermarket spindles are configured to be a direct swap & use the original drum brake parts. Other aftermarket spindles are configured for 73-87's which require the specific disc brake parts. All OE (junkyard) swaps using OE spindles require the newer steering stuff and/or adapting the tie-rods to the spindles. What parts you need depends on what spindles you purchased. If the mfr states you can use the original drum brake parts, then they're prob spindles designed specifically for that application. |
Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
Thanks Scoti, sometimes too much reading makes me overthink things. Has anyone used Captainfabs steering gear adapter with original tie rod ends and such?
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
Well, one more time. Been looking at power brakes but I have a big block in the 63' and it doesnt look like I'd be able to get the valve covers off with power brakes. Anyone know?
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
By the way, the brake booster is 9" but the guy said he could but an 8 or 7 on it. Does size matter??? lol
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
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Captain usually comes online in the evening pacific time. He checks these threads regularly and has always had me an answer the same day I post my question. I would be shocked if he doesn't reply to your question by 10pm pacific time. |
Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
Thanks Lost, I think Captain has me straightened out with that, my mind is working on brake boosters now, hahaha
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
The way I understand it is smaller diameter vac boosters = less overall vacuum accummulation = less overall assist. So, w/a smaller diameter booster, you'd still have more stopping pressure/force available vs other alternatives but it wouldn't be the most. It would prob read something like this.....
*Effective brake pressure/force exerted per ft/lbs of effort applied lowest to highest Manual drum brakes Power drum brakes Manual disc brakes Power disc w/small single diaphragm booster Power disc w/small dbl diaphragm booster Power disc w/Lg. single Power disc w/Lg. dbl Hydo-boost *This is a generalization. Research each option for accurate factual data. |
Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
Well that depends on how and where your BB is mounted. I have a BB in my '66 Suburban, and I'm running power brakes, using a '72 Impala booster which is 11 or 12" in diameter. I have no problems at all in removing the valve covers. Of course I moved the engine 2" forward from the original location. But that does not affect the location of the booster in relation to the valve covers.
I replied to your PM regarding the steering box and tie rod question. Quote:
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...1&d=1239765710 |
Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
Thanks for covering for me :)
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
:lol:
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
Thanks guys. John, I'll be buying yout steering box adapter soon!
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
I put the entire front suspension from the 1991 box body suburban in my 66 GMC with absolutely no problems, literally a bolt in, one afternoon job, but have stumbled upon a question;
I want to keep the six lug pattern so that I dont have to change wheels and the parts from CPP are 6 lug rotors, is that all i need to keep the 6 lug configuration? there arent any hubs or anything like that, like on newer chevys? |
Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
As long as that '91 Suburban had the 1-1/4" thick rotors, then all you need is the aftermarket rotors, bearings and seals. The hub and rotors are one unit just like the 5x5 rotors.
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Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
Instead of swapping the entire crossmember from the '91 I just took the a-arms, so my question is how do you connect the large diameter soft brake lines from the '91 and connect them to the 1/4 " '66 hard lines. Can I get a union from home depot or someplace similar?
I also have a question about the brake pushrod: Since the one off the '91 is too short can I fab up an intermediary connector with a hole on each end and bridge the 1" gap? Or will I run into binding? -Mike Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
The front hard lines on your '66 should be 3/16" in diameter. They should thread right into the later model hoses. That is unless for some reason your hoses are metric. Then you would need a SAE to metric adapter.
When extending the booster pushrod, you can not have 2 pivot points. You will need to cut the eye off of the booster pushrod, and either weld that to a section of your original pushrod, or use a piece of tubing to slide over the two. Then either weld, or cross drill and use either roll pins, or small machine screws. Quote:
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