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One additional option for cooler lines...http://bowlertransmissions.com/p/533...itting-braided

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Funny,
I was just looking at that setup.

I think I'll stick with the AN hose and hard line setup, but I think I'll check out what kind of space I have for a cooler.

I'll need to get the radiator and inner fenders back in and then run some lines.

Thanks everyone

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I worked all day today on brake lines to the master cylinder and proportioning valve, as well as lines for the steering rack and hydroboost.

Should finish that tomorrow...

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OK,
all of the brake lines are finished, and the hydroboost lines are complete except for the braided stainless that will connect the high pressure hard lines together.

I will paint all of the lines black for extra protection.

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front and rear lines,

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lower power steering line,

I reused the original tubes by bending them to my liking and then double flaring them with tube nuts and sleeves to join to AN-6 flex lines.

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While all the lines are off, I am going to get all the glass installed. A local glass place has done hundreds of old trucks and cars over the years, and they are coming up next week to put them in. The guys are pretty fast from what I've heard, and are quite reasonable.

I'll be supplying all of the glass and moldings. I'm also getting all of the gaskets. They suggested using Steele Rubber so I'll order them tomorrow.
He says they cost a bit more but they are very happy with their fit and finish.

I can't wait!

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I love seeing updates to your build. I hope you are proud of the work you are doing - it looks awesome! I think you'll be happy with the Steele rubber stuff.

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You will be happy with Steel Rubber products !

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OK,
while I am waiting for my window gaskets, I reinstalled my radiator and fans.

The screen on the front is stainless steel mesh with a stainless perimeter.
It's odd shaped to just fit behind the tilt frame.

The shroud and mounts top and bottom on the radiator are made from .060 aluminum. I made the side supports from some 5/8 inch tube that I flattened on the ends.

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some pictures...

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some more pieces,

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and mounted up,

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painted all of the brake, fuel, and emissions hard lines.

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forgot front view,

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Lines will go back on tomorrow and then I'll pressure test them.

After that, I'll start putting the inner fenders back on and start installing radiator hoses and transmission lines.

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Looks great...Jim

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OK guys,
As I have said before, the systems on cars and trucks are my weak area.

So I tend to spend a lot of time on the internet reading and re-reading stuff.
Here is the question.

I have a disc/disc master cylinder (2002 Silverado) and a disc/disc proportioning valve (Right stuff PV72 ) They both have no instructions. Some internet info suggests connecting the front port on the master to the front port on the proportioning valve. Some others indicate connecting them crisscrossed front master to rear proportioning and rear master to front proportioning. Apparently there is confusion (mostly on my part) concerning primary port/front brake on master cylinders that are disc/disc vs. disc/drum.

The proportioning valve ports info I have found on the web are shown in this picture. Maybe I am over thinking this.

The question is this, is the "rear" port on the master cylinder the port for the rear brakes?

Thanks

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my post 179 shows how I did it.

I can change it now if need be...Thanks

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Expert level build going on here Sorry can't help you

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Excactly as the picture says, Donandal.
The front brakelines are split in the valve, the rear uses one line.
The rear is also in proportion to the frontbrakes, that means the brakepower will be a bit less then front brakepower, so you don't overbrake the rear and go round with the truck....

If I have seen it right in post #179 it's all good (I looked via my phone, small picture...), the brakelines are as in pic #193.

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I had a local glass guy over today and he installed my windshields and rear window. The corner windows I planned on using were too scratched and faded to be used, so I ordered new ones Monday. They should be here in a couple of days. He'll come back next week to finish them too.

The stainless trim on the front needed a little trimming for length and went on pretty well. There is little gap between the rubber and stainless trim, probably a little difference in the dies that rolled the lip that tucks into the rubber, but overall very nice looking.

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Front glass and trim looks great, rear window also...Jim

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thanks Jim,

It was hard for me to just watch as they put them in.
I'd rather jump in there.

After seeing them do it, I'm glad I payed them.
I would have just been in the way, and they made it look easy.

Now I can start putting the front end back on.

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Looking good looking good...be glad you payed them to put in your glass..I watched the "experts" break 5 windshields in my truck before they got one in it...money well spent