Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you Sir! To crazy, i just posted on your thread about reading your entire thread, just now!!
I am learning this "patching" thing. I have done some minor stuff on my "69, but this one I am taking more time and no short cuts if i can avoid them. Do it right the first time (within my abilities). More pics to come...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well outside the smoke from the devastating fires is just unreal but I managed to do a little work on the truck this weekend so far....
Got a bunch of parts for the truck loaded into the new Old Hickory Shed

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok now onto the truck progress...
So i am working to get the lower cab area completed. I test fit the door and all seem good except the new lower rocker seems to be a bit too long, like 1/8" to 3/16". You can see it in the photos. When i hang the door it seems to be really good, except for this part. I am struggling with cutting the lower panel in half and then welding it back, but that may be just the amount that needs to be removed to fit right.
Suggestions?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so after test fitting the old removed plate the new one is good, i just had to "massage" it in place. It is not welded in place yet, just test fitting for now. Fits good, door gaps are decent (more work on them later) but one small issue on the back inside edge of the new cab panel, the new door is just rubbing a small bit. I tried moving the dame door hinges till i was blue in the face. To get door gaps good, it still hits, so i think i need to just do a bit of "massaging" to that one area, ie. cut and lower that section just a bit. Comments?
(see pic with black wore off)

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

If exterior visual door gaps look good to you, massage the inner portion as needed.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

LOL So after thinking on this and well taking another shot at alignment, i was able to get the door to fall closed easy, and after i weld everything up and get it all set up right, i should be good.
Thanks for the comment, it made me take another look and tada, it should be good!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Excellent. Next . . ....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

If the door ends up hitting again, I think I would modify the door instead of the rocker.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Checking in on your progress.

Man, I hate doing bodywork.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, good idea Captainfab. I was so focused on the new panel, never really thought about the new door.
I am hoping that after I get all the panels welded into place and set up, that this issue of just barely hitting the door goes away. LOL BUT if not i will look at altering that edge of the door. It is so slight.... that is why I think it is just a small adjustment with the new hinges.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I will say that the new panel that is under this cab door panel, the one with the straight down flat metal that is spot welded to the very bottom of this cab door panel is 1 - not long enough, 2 - needs to be bent towards the outside of the cab, just so i can spot weld the two together.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well, I have made the decision that there is no way i can get all the cab body work done and in primer before weather gets too cold, so.. I just decided to get a mini-split for the shop. I have a very large window AC unit now that works ok, but its the heat that kills me. I use propane heat now and i DO NOT LIKE IT. Its a "wet" heat and the fumes are horrible, so.... 30,000 BTU, 18 Seer 240V mini-split is on the way. Sucks, but for under $1,800.00 for all, including electrical ran for it (i do install) its worth it. Also, found a really cool youtube of a guy who built a 3 bay pre filter that mounts above the main inside blower unit. This will not only protect the unit but me from bad fumes and dust. Built out of plywood and uses paper style 20"x20" filters.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

.....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

A lot of progress since I last checked in.

Aaaannndddd...my brace turned up yesterday, now only the 500 mile round trip to pick it up....

Thanks again for giving me the confidence to go ahead with the purchase, hopefully this will be the motivation I need to start pushing things along before it starts to get cold.

My answer to the cold is a few extra layers and a space heater! Mind you I have just invested in a wood burner for the garage as, like you, don't like the damp heat that the diesel gives.

Onwards!!!

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

How are you liking the smaller mig wire? I've been using .023 for almost all of my panel work.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I really like the smaller wire. I have alot less burn through. Only time it sucks is when i am filling any kind of "gap"

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Are you using a copper backer to fill "gap"?

I use 0.023" for everything; I get finer wire feed control.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well up to the other day... no... now yes where i can. Crazy how that works.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I try to avoid large gaps but when I can I use a copper backer. careful trimming and make sure you have good metal. This steel is thin enough already so any pitting will greatly reduce blowing through

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Oh so true. Sometimes i must learn the hard way... lol and i so have.... I will be very honest here and if anyone reads this and is thinking about doing this kind of work/restoration, DO NOT HURRY!!! Honestly, the hardest thing i have had to understand and learn is to not hurry or say, "it will be ok that way", or "its good enough". Take your time, do it right, in the end you will be so happy you do!! Instant gratification only means headaches later!!
I have learned so much from so many on here, to many to honestly name, but one thing i have learned from just about all of them, take your time.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

New Mini-Split and filter system in and ready...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

The mini split looks great. I am considering one of these for my shop so I am very interested in how it works out for you. I need one more for cooling rather than heating so a little different situation. What size shop do you have?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

So, my shop is 24'x36' with 12' eve's so about 16' to 18' at peak. I have two large industrial ceiling fans spaced evenly and an exhaust fan on one end of the shop. (as typical, it is not big enough) With all that said, i work for the local power company as a power line designer and one of our electrical engineers is very savvy on designing heating an cooling system. I explained my situation and shop dimensions and he suggested 30,000 BTU or above even though if you go by the little examples of what size should i install and they give you some smaller size, he said with the open ceiling, ya go big or go home. lol So, i got this unit off of Amazon, pre-loaded with coolant and all hardware for $1520.00 shipped. I also bought a vacuum pump and gauges so i could do the install properly. You need to have approx. 30" of vacuum. The power needs cost me 300.00 for electrician to install. Total was just under $2,000.00 with filter box. I was tired of the fumes from heat, so with this i should be good.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

By the way, it works great! the switch from hot to cold takes a few min is all when you first install the unit, otherwise, works like a champ. Very very quite too!!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

That sounds like exactly what I need. My shop is 30'x30' with the same ceiling height. That's a great price, also. I have looked at the mini splits and I was unsure of the size. Now I know, thanks.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

This is the one i went with on Amazon:


Senville SENL-30CD Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump, 30000 BTU 18 SEER 208/230V

1399.00 before tax - Amazon Prime is free shipping

Vacuum pump kit:
Kozyvacu AUTO AC Repair Complete Tool Kit with 1-Stage 3.5 CFM Vacuum Pump, Manifold Gauge Set, Hoses and its Acccessories

Mini-Split line connector:
IANZHENKEJI R410A Adapter | 5/16" Female Quick Couplers x 1/4" Male Flare for Outdoor Units Mini Split & HVAC & Central Air Conditioner System(Pack of 2) (145°)

Then you just need to have electrical ran.
The filter box cost me $85.00 but is optional.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks for the info.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Small update: So the Mini-Split is working great! I am amazed at how well it does work. I plan to monitor the temp in the shop and how much it affects the power bill to get a good understanding how much it cost to keep the shop at a 62 degrees at a min.

As for the truck, I am finally back to work on it. Just about got the bottom of the cab by in the door area done. I would have it done but we ran out of gas, damnit. So this week we will have this door area done and this weekend i plan to have the other area below the passenger door done and start on the header area inside and out.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Update:

So Driver side lower door area and cab floor are repaired. Now onto less involved passenger side.

First pic is completed driver side

Rest are the passenger side after i removed the stock lower cab door panel

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

You can see the dent in the stock under area shown in the last two pics. Metal all seems to be decent, no real rusted through areas, just surface rust that i will coat with Por 15. The dent is my trouble area. May need to get new panel for that. I was thinking of trying to fix it by hammer and dolly, but maybe just a replacement panel would be easier.
Suggestions?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well i ordered the complete lower side of the passenger door area for the cab from LMC, it is on the way....

As for the passenger side, i did a little work. grey pic is as it started out... Thanks to CaptainFab for the door pillars.... (shown in blue)

Waiting on the panel from LMC... and then the gas filler neck fill in panel from POL

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Looks good.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir! I appreciate it.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Nice patch work. Lookin' good.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir! I appreciate the comments. Sometimes I think, this is not my forte, I have never done this type of repair but I figure just go for it. If you screw it up, fix it later. If you never try, how will you ever know if you can?! And with this site, the many great "how to's" on here, examples shown and such, i really think just about anyone with basic mechanical skills can do most of the stuff here, maybe not everything, but most. My biggest demon to fight is patients with the fixes. I just want to run and get it done... but that never ends well.
Just like now, i assumed the passenger side was ok..... ya after some scratching and cutting..... just had to order more repair panels.... damnit... LOL BUT Classic Industries has up to 30% 229.00 or more now, so patch panels and 7 rib serpentine AC Compressor.... i met the 229.00 and got up to 30% off! not much on the panels, but compressor was 179.99 now 129.99! 50.00 off.
This only means that i am on hold again for a bit for these panels to show up. That is ok, i need to clean the shop anyways.... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Even though we're not 'pros' doesn't mean what you/we fix in your/our home space is any worse than what many typical shops do as far as rust repairs & sheet-metal/panel replacement. If anything, you'll scrutinize the process & fit of things more because it's a personal item vs a guy @ a shop. Only better qualified shops will have a staffer that specializes in this sort of stuff. Many more just have a 'guy'.... not 'the' guy.

You're doing quality work & learning as you go so you're getting better w/each task.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

You and me both man - I've never done rust repair of this magnitude before; I'm totally learning as I go.

I have a saying that keeps me inspired to try things for myself:

"I can pay a professional to screw it up, or I can screw it up myself for free."

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Now that is a great way to think of it! I like that, I may borrow that saying, but credit you for the saying.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so here are pics of the passenger side floor area adventure... sucks that I had to remove alot more than I had originally hoped, BUT in this case, it was good because I got to learn that just because it looks ok, what lies under may not be, and it was not as all, but short it will be!
Pics of the floor cut out and then the vent box area cut out and new replacement installed.
Today I plan to weld up the rest of the bent box and get the floor panel installed and welded up. Then wait for the kick panel replacement and the bottom tear drop shaped outside door pillar panel to come in, then get installed. After that, just replace the door stop area on the door pillar with replacement one from CaptainFab. This will finish the floor, FINALLY. LOL Then it s weld in the hole for the old gas tank, start on the roof pinch weld area, inside and out, above the passenger side.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

vent box area