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I installed the inner fenders and some components.

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I installed the radiator reservoir. I built this from .060 aluminum.
The cap is from a nissan reservoir. I copied the thread profile and
cut the threads on the lathe, then welded the neck to the top flange
before welding up the rest of the tank.

The over flow refills into the bottom of the reservoir, and any more than
that will go out the reservoir overflow at the top of the tank, then down to
the ground.

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The big square hole on the passenger side inner fender is for the
air intake. I'll post that soon.

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I reinstalled the front end tilt frame and greased up the pivots and the sway bar links and pivots.

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half round rubber pads for the stop,
front pivot bushings...

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just enough clearance...

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Very nice...Jim

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I love everything about your build. Your attention to detail, and willingness to modify and/or fabricate parts is what I think hot rodding is all about.

I have a question about your windshield wiper setup. In Post 142 it appears that you used Ford Escort splined shafts and transmission arms for your starting point, is that correct? Also, in Post 143 are those wiper arms from a Ford Escort also?

I have a 1966 GTO that my college son and I restomodded using a 6.0 LS type engine and six speed manual transmission (it is in the link below ). We have driven the car over 30,000 miles and now it is time for some upgrades. I used the same wipe motor you used, and with some work, it works great. The wiper transmission arms and "old style" wiper transmissions are noisy and have a fair amount of slop and need to be upgraded. I was considering using parts from a newer S-10, but your setup looks to be perfect for my GTO.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ricky

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Thanks,

I really enjoy making parts.

As for the wiper setup, I'll have to check my notebook when I get back home. I'm out of town for the rest of the week. I think the splined arms that hold the wipers are from the rear of a couple Ford escort hatchbacks.

The splined shafts had to be turned down on the lathe to fit inside the original cowl bushings. The rest of it, transmission, arms with the sockets, mounts and linkages have all been modified or made from scratch.

I'll try to find more info later in the week.

Don

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That flipfront is just a piece of art!!
Realy nice!!

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Thanks,

I think it will look a little better when I get the fenders and hood
back on and it's working. I'm going to try to make a video of that later,
if I can get my son to help me.

I've been on the road for the last five days, but I have some time
off now so I should get a little done.

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Messing with a lot of little things.
The corner windows are in. The ones I had were cloudy
around the edges, so I bought new ones from Classic parts.

I had the glass guy put them in. He was impressed with the quality!
Only charged me $20 per window. Money well spent. All glass is in now.

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Also finished up a fresh air line on the intake I made.

I made up a line from the passenger side valve cover to
the air intake. I made a threaded bung and welded it to
the intake pipe, and made a bracket to brace the tube.
Just need a short piece of rubber hose to finish
it up.

I'll be finishing the power steering cooler and transmission
cooler lines next.

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Just curious but what's the fresh air line on the intake tube for?

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It's part of the emissions system. From what my instructions say, the crankcase air is drawn into the intake manifold and burned, and fresh
air to replace it comes from the filtered air. Instructions say it needs to be between the mass air flow sensor and the throttle opening for correct
engine performance.

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Can you say P C V inlet!!

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I could....

but I'll stick with what the experts that built it call it.

This is copied from my instructions.

This port should be connected to filtered clean air. This connection must be within the engines air cleaner system and must be between the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) and engine’s throttle body. The engine burns the air that enters the PCV system so, if the fresh air port is prior to the MAF then, this air will enter the engine without being measured by the MAF and adverse engine operation may occur.

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I mounted the transmission cooler and power steering
cooler. Also made up the hard lines, so just flex lines to go,
then on to the electrical system.

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here's the transmission cooler,

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Well,
today I put together the braided stainless flex lines for the power steering
and transmission.

What a pain in the ...

The instructions say to wrap black tape tight around the area to be cut, then cut thru the tape with a cut-off wheel. For the fuel lines, this worked great. For the powerflex and speed flex hose it started to unravel as soon as it was cut. The plastic coated braided stainless also swelled just enough that it wouldn't slip thru either.

I fooled around with different methods, then settled on a .020 aluminum wrapped around and hose clamped. I cut the hose right next to the aluminum sleeve while the hose clamp was tight. Then I loosened it just enough to slide and gave it a quick push and it slipped thru the fitting just fine, and no unraveling.

Glad that job is finished!

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Good solution. This is pretty handy. http://www.koultools.com/ANHoseAssemblyTools.html

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That looks pretty slick.

Have you ever used it with teflon hoses like speedflex or powerflex ?

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I mounted a few pieces in the cab. On the passenger side is a vent and mount for the engine computer. I also painted the floor with tractor enamel to seal it all up, before mat and sound deadening go on.

Also mounted the solenoid/relay? for the tilt mechanism and the flex lines on the power steering.

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I had a little trouble with the fittings for the transmission lines. I am replacing the quick connect fittings with AN-6 adapters. I ordered the ones from Summit Racing that are used on 700R4 and various others, but the transmission threads were a little bigger diameter on my 4L65E.

I called Summit, and they checked the part # and thought it should fit. They didn't show anything else that was listed for a 4L65E.

I called Pace performance, and they knew immediately which fitting I needed. The 700R4 has a 1/4 STRAIGHT pipe thread, while the newer 4L65E uses a 9/16-18 straight thread. Pace gave me the part number.

I called Summit and explained all of this, and they were AWESOME!!!!
They sent me the two correct fittings FREE, and no shipping charges either!

So, tomorrow I'll finish those two lines also.

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FYI - Easy on the teflon on those an x male adapters. I have been told many a trans case has been cracked with to much teflon and over tightening.

Looks Great

Mike