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Re: A '54 named Busty
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where the magic happens
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Good job on the fender metal massage work. I would think that would be a difficult part of patina preservation. Getting it straight, but not wrecking the "original finish". By original, I guess I mean current.
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Re: A '54 named Busty
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added some more gussets at the top, and I must say I am pretty proud of the result, but am I the only idiot who tries to use weld beads as filler, with crappy results, ha ha
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Awesome build. Wouldn't be possible without the beer.
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nice work!
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no you arent, but I gotta tell you, I used to have trouble closing gaps on thick steel but now even a 3/16 gap on sheetmetal (you would bbe amazing how much this happens with a measure once cut once mentality) doesnt scare me any more. whether its learning better welder settings or experience, its getting easier. |
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Re: A '54 named Busty
Sup
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next it was time to fabrimake the radiator frame / core support brackets which would join that contraption to the Camaro frame horns
we start with a benign piece of metal slightly thicker than 1/8th I think, I measured from the outside edge of each frame horn to the radiator frame and it was approximately 9" on each side and this scrap piece just happens to be 18" and a gnats hair long |
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you ever wonder why after measuring a piece, finding it's center, marking it with a SHARPIE, then cutting it, only to find out one piece is slightly longer than the other
well, today I was in a finding out kinda mood, so I measured 9 inches exactly from each side and drew a line with my SHARPIE as you can see the lines were off, I recon it's on the account of the thichness of that pen, or it's fat shoulder, good to know either way, so for exercise we split the difference, (pun intended) |
Re: A '54 named Busty
... and now Metal Fab Advice from A Guy Who Should Not Be Giving Metal Fab Advice
if you want straight / even cuts when cutting with an angle grinder, anything thicker than sheet metal, so something like square tubing or pipe, only cut through the surface on each edge, then flip or rotate the piece and cut the other side only through the surface, reason being is that as you cut downwards the blade will go slightly at an angle either one way or the other way depending if you are right or left handed, this is a common problem as you try to stare down at the cut, it's a natural bad habit, but if you only penetrate that wall then rotate the piece then you will not cut far deep enough to skew your line, kapish? |
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so now we had two 9" pieces, whooptie doo
oh wait... |
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second verse
same as the first but a whole lot sharper and a whole lot worse... |
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growing up on a farm we threw nothing away, knowing some day we might find a use for it...
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now that's what I call getting your moneys worth out of the wheel of death
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what the hewk is he making? he's just cutting, and cutting, until there's nothing going to be left...
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and now we make the one for the other side....
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after drilling crooked off center holes for 47 1/2 years, tonight... I put my foot down
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... and now more Metal Fab Advice from A Guy Who Should Not Be Giving Metal Fab Advice
when drilling always use astro glide or super lube of some kind, any motor oil will do, don't listen to guys who swear by cutting oil only, that is nonsense, my godfather is an amazing blacksmith and I'm telling you motor oil is fine, you can even use WD-40, water even, hewk beer, no wait that would be crazy talk, not beer, don't do that first of all use a corded drill, corded drills are for ... wait for it... DRILLING, but but but, my wife got me a sexy cordless drill, yes, that's awesome, cordless drills are for guys who drive trucks with leather interiors and never put anything in the beds of their trucks so they won't scratch them up (tongue and cheek people, I'm just kidding, but seriously corded drills may be more torquay and help you out) and when you start to drill a hole don't press down on the drill like a gorilla just hold it steady and let it do it's job, ie drill under it's own weight, then as it starts it's hole then put some pressure on it, and most importantly if you see smoke give it a splash of lubricant, I just dip my tip [enter dirty joke here] in a small can of oil or what ever I have near me, and your drill remnants should look like curly long strands of pubic hair, not tiny glitter pieces, tiny glitter pieces means your drill bit is dull and most likely you drive a truck with leather interior, ha ha |
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so holes done on one side...
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and holes drilled in both brackets
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de·burr
/dēˈbər/ verb verb: debur neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of (an object, typically one made of metal). |
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well it's getting dark, so let's see if we can get these welded by nightfall
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I have no idea how they are going to get mounted yet, but I know they will be rubber mounted in some way
shown with old core support rubber bushings from my '74 square, (these OEM rubber mounts were really really nice and well made, I wonder if any of you know where I can find them, and please don't say LMC truck, I bought the random garbage they sell, it seems like they just went to ACE Hardware and grabbed a handful of grade 5 nuts and bolts, ha ha) |
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nice fab! people dont realize how hard it is to visualize something that doesnt exist and then make it. I knew a guy that would think about a loft (3d term for a wing chord or fuselage feature) for a week, smoking cigarettes and just staring out the window. then he would make a point in space and just draw the loft in one line. it was a fine skill i recognized then and now, so nice work!
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