Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Question: How or what tool do you use to cut straight lines on exhaust or round pipe? Specifically when you are needing to make some slight bends in straight pipe, you can cut slight angles in the cut then spin one of the pipes just slightly to start the pipe in a new direction with a little bend? Thanks guys.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Love your build. You can come mess up my rust repair anytime! :D I need to do the bottom of my doors, but that is going to be phase 2 of my build...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks!
Lol, honestly, if i was close i would come help. I am not a big fan of rust repair, BUT it is necessary.... unfortunately.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Yes.

You can also partially slice through the tube w/o going all the way through & tip the tubing over. This helps keep things in place easier. If one slice isn't enough, compress the gap & slice through a 2nd/3rd time as needed. In the end, you can slice all the way through for a Butt weld or just fill in the gap.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

A quick easy way to mark a straight line around a pipe or tube is to cut a strip of heavy paper or poster board say 1-1/2 or 2" wide long enough to wrap around the circumference of the pipe. Wrap it around the pipe, lining up the edges and either hold it or secure it with tape. Then mark the pipe using the edge.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Great idea. I thought about something similar to this and was goofing around with how to achieve it.
So i am not sure i am getting my question out correctly. I did some further research and what i am trying to do is make Pipe or Exhaust Pie Cuts to make bends or radius for my exhaust routing. Why on earth I could not come up with the words "Pie Cut" is beyond me, LOL. I do though like the idea on how to make a straight cut on pipe with the poster board... i will be using this idea.
Funny how a simple thing like this is there and yet I never thought or knew of this.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I always use worm-gear/radiator-hose clamps for marking straight/360° cut lines on tubing. They come in all kinds of sizes & are adjustable as needed. We all usually have several used ones lying around as well.

My recommendation for partially cutting through then tipping over & repeating the process on tubing yields a pie-cut. Once your pipe/tube is 'tipped' over enough, you can repeat the process on the next piece w/the same number of cuts to return back to straight.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Update:
So i got the replacement panels for the entire passenger side door area and floor in. Floor is almost fully welded in, along with the pillar area, then after door install check was good i was Spot welding in the bottom outside door panel and well out of gas for the welder i go.... damnit.... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Great Ideas!! Thanks for all the suggestions, I really appreciate them all.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

So i was looking and found that you can use a miter saw with a special metal blade. I found this vey interesting because I have two of them, one i use for my wood projects and then second is just a spare laying around, well it is now going to be my new Metal cutting miter!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Few update Pics.... up to the point where I run out of welding gas... lol

Just a note, as everyone has mentioned before.... the damn patch panels you get are not perfect.... by any means, even when you think they would be or should be.... NOPE! LOL

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Progress looks good. It looks like you got new bolts for the door hinges. Where did you get them as they look like the originals better then some I have seen?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

They came with the new Hinges. Now from whom i got them... lol. it was either LMC or Classic Industries. I only say because one had rights and one had lefts, so i was making a huge order from each, so i am not sure who had them honestly.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok everyone, i am in need of some advice. I am now ready to replace the inner and outer header panels where the windshield goes. Here is my question:
1.) Do i do outer one first then inner or inner than outer or ???

2.) use the entire patch panels or cut as needed? .

3.)The inner panel only has the hole cutout for the driver side sun Visor, no idea why only the driver side.


4.) Any good hints for doing this would be greatly appreciated.

Note: You will see in the first pics that i decided to make a new Cab support roller. The original one is really just to tall.

Thanks for any help!!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

here is the missing passenger side sun visor

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I cant provide any suggestion on order other than tackling whatever is easier to start with to get a feel for your process.

As far as the visor holes, pass side visors weren't standard back then so it's possible the patch panels reflect that.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, I was kinda thinking that was the case for the sun visor. Not hard to make a spot for one.
As far as what to do first... LOL i was thinking the same, just start somewhere and go. BUT would you replace the entire panel(s) or just the areas with the rust?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Personally, I would 'cut' a section vs. the entire panel. Once cut, inspect the removed piece & see if it's worth doing the entire panel approach.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I know on the 60-63 cabs, the provision on the back side of the inner panel was there for a passenger side sun visor. I purchased a section from a donor cab from that area and noticed a reinforcement plate on the back side where the sun visor screws in.
There might be a provision on your truck that was not transferred to the patch panel final productions.

I am interested to see which way you tackle it as I will eventually have the same issue to tackle once I get to it. Gotta love a mouse nest in the roof :lol:

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I would replace one side, referencing the existing other side for placement, then repeat referencing the new panel. Having said that, I've never replaced those panels. I'd probably pick which one to do first based on what would be easiest to access/weld.

There will be less "this don't fit" misery if you patch with only what you need to patch.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I had to patch the same areas on my truck and I would recommend only removing/replacing the areas that have to be replaced. I would think you could create a lot of headache if you were to cut the entire area out at once. Splice in your repairs and call it good.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks Scoti

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks for the thoughts SkinnyG. I will try to document as much as possible and post them, maybe it will help you out.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks for your knowledge.

After much thought... lol and well all your idea and suggestions, i will only cut out what is needed. Actually makes me feel better anyways.


So thanks to all of you for the help and responses.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well, I just stumbled upon the Altman Easy Latch! DAMN i like what i see and hear about them. Not happy that i heard AFTER i bought all new door latch hardware, BUT for easy door shut, oh ya i am all over them.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Definitely an upgrade. Return or sell what you purchased??

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Yep, i cannot sell, been to long so i will sell at a discount.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I look @ it as 'an investment of my learning curve'. Sometimes it's steeper than desired but more often than not I learn what I need to know & sell a new part @ a small loss having learned a different approach will work better for me in the big picture.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Exactly. LOL .... I have been working on the upper windshield outer panel and damn... i got it in, looks good except for 1 small area that decided to be a pain in the cab to weld! Kept blowing through. I got mad and kept trying to add more filler and, well, finally i stopped, laughed and said just cut that little part out and use the extra filler panel i still have that i did not use. LOL But damn was i mad. lol
All in all so far, the outside repair panel is not to bad. Now moving to the inner panel to roof, not excited about this one.....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

There is always that one section that just refuses to cooperate!! I have had many days that I just had to walk away

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Yep that is what happened. LOL

Next are pics of progress and a pic of that damn blowout area.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so here are pics of the progress so far on the outside Windshield repair panel... and blowout area.. lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

and more..

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

few more

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Lookin' good!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

i have a few areas that i need to still work a bit, but overall the fix is in. Honestly the hardest part is getting the panel to separate, AND anywhere that they would use that damn "bond", that really sucks! It sticks together and is not easy to separate, heck it is almost easier to remove spot weld areas. This is how it was for me at least.
Now i must work the inside area... this is where i get a bit nervous. The outside part i just did is just one cut and match that was short, the inside, well that is a longitudinal cut and i am not happy about that... but quitters never advance .. so .... lol This weekend you may hear alot of screaming from Washington State!!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir! I appreciate it.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

i so want to get this rust repair done so i can get to what i like to do..... anything but body work!! LOL

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

The patchwork on the front looks great. I'm glad I didn't have to do that area. It looks difficult. Keep it up.