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Re: S10 Swap how to
Are those part numbers for small block hoses or ls either way good info thanks
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Yeah, those are for LS, with the radiator upper radiatropening on the passenger side. For a small block I just use an upper hose for a 75 chevy pickup. I have numbers for good lower hoses in the shop. I'll try to post it up tomorrow.
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Thanks for putting this out there for us to refer too. A lot of great info here. My 47 is still on the trailer and I need to go check out an s-10 this week so we can get started. Thanks again.
Nick |
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[quote=Strodder;7148463]I've been following this thread, and not sure if someone addressed the issue of mounting the front bumper. Here's what I did. I made a bracket from 1X2 tubing and slipped it into the frame and clamped it. I forgot to take a picture of what it looked like. Sorry. Then welded a nut in the inside part of the bumper brackets so a bolt can be bolted through the bracket and frame. Then I had to modify the bumper brackets so the bumper would be centered. After I had everything centered I did the final welding and boxed in the front frame around the brackets I made that lets the bumper brackets slide in. I can undo 4 bolts and the whole bumper and brackets come right out. Here's the pictures I took. Hope you like the idea.
http://belair.smugmug.com/Cars/Kusto...6-1639x922.jpg http://belair.smugmug.com/Cars/Kusto...2-1639x922.jpg Nice clean mount for the bumper. Not sure if you figured it out yet but your center link is on backwards. took me a bit to figure out why the inner tie rods looked off. Nick |
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I installed it the other way by mistake and it didn't fit. It doesn't hit anything and I set the toe also, turns lock to lock too. What else would you want? I'll give it another look. Thanks
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I see what you mean. The tie rod nuts should be facing front. Thanks again. :uhmk:
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By moving the inner tierod forward several inches it seriously changes the steering geometry and not for the better. As an alignment tech at the Local GM I see one come in every couple months. The 99-07 half ton pickups can be installed backwards also. They are easy to spot because they turn like are stuck in 4wd when they aren't.
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No problem
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I've seen those pics before, nice looking setup. I've posted how I do front bumper brackets I believe,. I remove the rear 3 inches off the bumper brackets, then I make a 3/16" plate vertical brackets, and weld them to the bottom side of the frame. Then drill them and attach with 1/2" bolts. Straight forward, and plenty strong.
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Oh my gosh...
I have to commend all you guys for all the detail you are putting forth on this thread. I have attempted two of these swaps one with 1961 Willys cab and the other with a 1954 Chevy cab...I got them both about 2/3 to 1.2 done and I bailed on them...I just could NOT gather my head around all the little details that make them all one working piece in the end... I am doing more of a stock (1952/53 farm truck) one now as there is way less head scratching and tape measure chasing with a stock one...it is basically take off the old part bolt on the new part...lots of check writing but way more simple overall than doing these chassis swaps...way less stressful for sure... You guys are awesome by taking us through all the little details that make these things a reality... Thank you again for all the pictures and commentary too... MikeC |
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That's what this Forum is all about. :metal:
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So, I've read a lot of the s10 swap threads and I have a few questions that I'm guessing Skymangs or someone else can answer.
1. In this thread there are two different heights of body mounts. I also read in this thread that if you use the version 2 mounts, when you do the bed a piece of 1-1/2" square tubing can be set under the lip on the inside edge of the bed as a bed cross member. I saw in another thread that the cross member was placed on the top side of the lip... so is that where that would go using the version1 mounts? 2. What are the benefits to mounting the cab higher or lower? Looks like either way the trans tunnel needs modification, so why not go with the lowest center of gravity possible? 3. So everyone is reusing the S10 factory isolators? What about the radiator support? It looks like most are just trimming down the stock support and welding some brackets to it that bolt straight through the top of the s10 frame. No isolators up there? How's that work... with the cab floating on isolators, bolted to the front sheet metal, then no isolators attaching the front part of the sheet metal to the frame? Seems as though that would be an issue??? I'm hoping to start on mine soon. I've had the truck for almost two years and I'm starting to get going on it. Thanks in advance! |
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The reason for mounting the cab closer to the frame is to lower the ride height without modifying the springs. Still rides nice even lowered. The S10 isolator design doesn't allow the cab to move, just provides shock cushion. I've been driving several that way for more than 2 years with no issues. The reason that the core supports were isolated was to protect the hard mounted radiator. Since I float mount the radiators, there are no issues. Hope that helps. |
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Thanks.
I thought version 2 sat the cab higher than version 1... I believe you did the one with the cross members on top of the lips? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=642010&page=4 post 92 shows what I am referring to. I am going for a low ride height, so I'm confused on which ones to go with. The ones with the shorter measurement are version 1, right? Another random question... With the s10 frame, I plan to swap to a 12 bolt that I will narrow to fit the tires inside the bedside fenders. Is there room between the fender and the frame rail for a 10". I'm ok with cutting into the bedside and tubbing that. I'll be doing a 4 link on coilovers so I'm not worried about the 12 bolt lining up with the leafs. |
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I happened to be in town today buying an antenna for my AD, the owner of this came in after I did. My buddy Mark did the chassis swap on it 10 years ago or more. An S10 4X4 with the 4.3 V6 purposely set up to look stock. Another buddy, Eddie, did body work and paint. The dude uses it, to pull the boat, take cans to recycle, work, etc.........
http://i432.photobucket.com/albums/q...psswbqe7rq.jpg |
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T Hilde,
I like what your buddy did with that truck! It is very utilitarian and purposeful looking. Do you have any more pictures? Ed |
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Tre5; yea, I may have mis-spoken. Version 1 are the shorter ones. Cross sills should go under the lip. If you want to go lower, I now have a version 3 that sets the cab 2.25" off the frame. I designed that one for Cecil. Those brackets have the cross sills above the lip. The widest I've tried to run is 9.5" wheels. While 10 may squeak by, you may have to notch the frame rail a bit.
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Most of you know that Chris was injured very badly in a shop fire a couple weeks ago. I have set up a GoFundMe campaign to help Chris (AKA SKYMANGS, Ole Sarge) and his family with medical expenses. Please share this with as many people as possible. Chris was the first to help with any questions, lets see if we can help him out here: Chris Klapp, AKA: SKYMANGS, Ole Sarge
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Chris' wife posted this on his Facebook page yesterday:
"Chris had surgery today and he did well. They did a trac and cleaned up some of his burn areas. He is doing well this evening other than a slight fever." Chris loves working on these trucks, when he was building my truck it was hard to tell who was more excited, me or him. Chris was always the first to offer any advice to the forum members here. Pleasde help him and his family via the GoFundMe campaign that I set up to help Chris (AKA SKYMANGS, Ole Sarge) and his family with any medical expenses. Here is the link to the campaign http://www.gofundme.com/c49h5mjx8 |
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Thank you to all who have donated! As you can see we cracked the $2000 mark and we are now almost halfway to the $5000 goal. Please keep spreading the word so we can help Chris out, donations can be made here or clinking the link in my signature. Additionally if you would please insert the Chris' link into your signature so it will show up on all the threads you reply on.
Chris has been in ICU almost a month now, here is the latest update from his wife. By Jennifer Klapp — Aug 3, 2015 3:34pm |
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Dang! This sucks to hear. I wish him a quick recovery. I'll try and make a donation to help him out soon.
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Hoping for a speedy recovery.
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I talked to Chris' wife today, and received more info or more of their beat guess until Chris can tell us. He was finishing up the 54 for Bob R (pics on his page). Working on the filler neck or the fuel door and there was a flash fire that totally consumed the inside of the shop. I will post pics later but it is bad. Chris was trapped inside the shop for a while, but at some point got out and was able to call 911 before he passed out outside.
His burns are all above the waist, mostly on his arms and around his left ear. But the good news is that several of the burns are starting to heal on their own. If he can just fight the infection they are hopeful. By Jennifer Klapp — 9 hours ago |
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So for those of you who have asked for some photos of Chris' shop here they are. As you can see it is basically a complete loss. Two trucks destroyed, Chris son's TF truck and a customer Bob R. Currently we are sitting at about $2500 in donations, so please lets get the word and help if we can! Donate Here!
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Here is an update on Chris from his wife:
By Jennifer Klapp — Aug 15, 2015 9:10pm Chris is doing well this week. His dialysis catheter was removed on Wednesday. He has still had a slight fever, but keeping down the upper 90's to 101. He tracks you with his eyes and tries to talk to you, but gets very frustrated when you can't figure out what he is trying to tell you. But the doctors are happy with his progress. The burns are healing well and the two places that they will have to do some reconstruction on they have vacuum packed right now. This procedure will cause the body to send extra blood to those areas to help stimulate growth on it is own. Next week he should be getting a feeding tube placed in the gut and removed from his nose. |
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Jennifer posted another update
Busy week |
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Let's see if we can get this ball rolling again. We need about $1900 to get the $5000 goal. Please share this and lets help out Chris. He is making some progress but is still facing a long recovery battle. Please donate here: http://gofundme.com/c49h5mjx8
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Updated from Chris' Wife. We still need about $2k to hit the $5k goal
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Does anyone here have a detail or pictures of what you you did for the parking brake? Did you use the S10 bracket, or adapt something else?
Thanks. |
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I think it would be nice to see Chris's recovery in his own thread on the 1947 to 1965 message board. Or if he has a sense of humor put him in projects and builds.because right now he is a project pushing toward that perfect build. His life.I think if you titled it chris's recovery from a shop fire. More people would be aware of what has happened and what is needed. Start out with pics of the fire. Maybe some pics of him when is ready. Or just updated info on his recovery .That way we can see how is doing withou having to go to the entire s10 conversion thread.i don't know him but he seem like a good guy. I would check this thread everyday and it would remind me to pray for him every day, looks like the last date you had for an update was .the end of august How has he been doing. Speaking from experience he needs to tell him self it wont always be like this .it will get better.I kept telling myself that after having a heart transplant and learning how to walk and talk. Then getting into a head on collision with suburban. I got hit so hard in knocked me out. I was blind for three day and they did not think I would see again. After that I had to learn how to walk a second time. Proved them wrong
QUOTE=oossuuu754;7293630]Updated from Chris' Wife. We still need about $2k to hit the $5k goal [/QUOTE] |
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This a great post full of information. I'm doing a similar swap on a 1952 GMC. I have redone some things after I thought they were done. I have relocated the S10 steering column but now I think the brake pedal is too high and too far away from floor board. I looking for some advice on how to solve this.:gmc2:
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Look at post #45. That should help some. Using the s10 pedal Assy. It does sit a little high.
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Hey Sim6 that's a good looking truck you are building. You and I are in about the same stage except I'm 3 years in and about half done. With my pedal setup I can slid my foot off the gas pedal and actually be behind the brake pedal. That does not seem safe??????????????????????
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Thanks wibas! I think that depends if you can drive it like that comfortably and safely. The original brake pedal was high I believe compared to the gas pedal. It should be relatively easy to fab something lower.
Jeff |
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I have a question that hopefully someone will be able to help out with. I have a 54 3100 sitting on an S10 frame. it has the stock disc brake setup up front and a blazer axle with the disc brakes in the back. Originally I was going to put a frame mounted hydroboost below the floor so I can keep the firewall clear. I have yet to mount the hydroboost or run my brake lines. My question is, what does it take to convert the stock disc setup to manual brakes? I know I would be losing a benefit that comes with the s10 swap but I just wanted to inquire so that I know my options. I don't know enough about brakes to even know if this question makes sense. Thanks in advance!!
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Steve - All you need is a non power master cylinder. I have powered 4 wheel disk brakes on my 55 first series. Stops great. Why do you want to go non powered?
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