Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Question: How or what tool do you use to cut straight lines on exhaust or round pipe? Specifically when you are needing to make some slight bends in straight pipe, you can cut slight angles in the cut then spin one of the pipes just slightly to start the pipe in a new direction with a little bend? Thanks guys.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Love your build. You can come mess up my rust repair anytime! :D I need to do the bottom of my doors, but that is going to be phase 2 of my build...
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Lol, honestly, if i was close i would come help. I am not a big fan of rust repair, BUT it is necessary.... unfortunately. |
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You can also partially slice through the tube w/o going all the way through & tip the tubing over. This helps keep things in place easier. If one slice isn't enough, compress the gap & slice through a 2nd/3rd time as needed. In the end, you can slice all the way through for a Butt weld or just fill in the gap. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
A quick easy way to mark a straight line around a pipe or tube is to cut a strip of heavy paper or poster board say 1-1/2 or 2" wide long enough to wrap around the circumference of the pipe. Wrap it around the pipe, lining up the edges and either hold it or secure it with tape. Then mark the pipe using the edge.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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So i am not sure i am getting my question out correctly. I did some further research and what i am trying to do is make Pipe or Exhaust Pie Cuts to make bends or radius for my exhaust routing. Why on earth I could not come up with the words "Pie Cut" is beyond me, LOL. I do though like the idea on how to make a straight cut on pipe with the poster board... i will be using this idea. Funny how a simple thing like this is there and yet I never thought or knew of this. |
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My recommendation for partially cutting through then tipping over & repeating the process on tubing yields a pie-cut. Once your pipe/tube is 'tipped' over enough, you can repeat the process on the next piece w/the same number of cuts to return back to straight. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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So i got the replacement panels for the entire passenger side door area and floor in. Floor is almost fully welded in, along with the pillar area, then after door install check was good i was Spot welding in the bottom outside door panel and well out of gas for the welder i go.... damnit.... lol |
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
So i was looking and found that you can use a miter saw with a special metal blade. I found this vey interesting because I have two of them, one i use for my wood projects and then second is just a spare laying around, well it is now going to be my new Metal cutting miter!
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Few update Pics.... up to the point where I run out of welding gas... lol
Just a note, as everyone has mentioned before.... the damn patch panels you get are not perfect.... by any means, even when you think they would be or should be.... NOPE! LOL |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Progress looks good. It looks like you got new bolts for the door hinges. Where did you get them as they look like the originals better then some I have seen?
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Thanks!
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Ok everyone, i am in need of some advice. I am now ready to replace the inner and outer header panels where the windshield goes. Here is my question:
1.) Do i do outer one first then inner or inner than outer or ??? 2.) use the entire patch panels or cut as needed? . 3.)The inner panel only has the hole cutout for the driver side sun Visor, no idea why only the driver side. 4.) Any good hints for doing this would be greatly appreciated. Note: You will see in the first pics that i decided to make a new Cab support roller. The original one is really just to tall. Thanks for any help!! |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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here is the missing passenger side sun visor
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I cant provide any suggestion on order other than tackling whatever is easier to start with to get a feel for your process.
As far as the visor holes, pass side visors weren't standard back then so it's possible the patch panels reflect that. |
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As far as what to do first... LOL i was thinking the same, just start somewhere and go. BUT would you replace the entire panel(s) or just the areas with the rust? |
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I know on the 60-63 cabs, the provision on the back side of the inner panel was there for a passenger side sun visor. I purchased a section from a donor cab from that area and noticed a reinforcement plate on the back side where the sun visor screws in.
There might be a provision on your truck that was not transferred to the patch panel final productions. I am interested to see which way you tackle it as I will eventually have the same issue to tackle once I get to it. Gotta love a mouse nest in the roof :lol: |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I would replace one side, referencing the existing other side for placement, then repeat referencing the new panel. Having said that, I've never replaced those panels. I'd probably pick which one to do first based on what would be easiest to access/weld.
There will be less "this don't fit" misery if you patch with only what you need to patch. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I had to patch the same areas on my truck and I would recommend only removing/replacing the areas that have to be replaced. I would think you could create a lot of headache if you were to cut the entire area out at once. Splice in your repairs and call it good.
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After much thought... lol and well all your idea and suggestions, i will only cut out what is needed. Actually makes me feel better anyways. So thanks to all of you for the help and responses. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Well, I just stumbled upon the Altman Easy Latch! DAMN i like what i see and hear about them. Not happy that i heard AFTER i bought all new door latch hardware, BUT for easy door shut, oh ya i am all over them.
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All in all so far, the outside repair panel is not to bad. Now moving to the inner panel to roof, not excited about this one..... |
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Next are pics of progress and a pic of that damn blowout area. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Ok, so here are pics of the progress so far on the outside Windshield repair panel... and blowout area.. lol
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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and more..
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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few more
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Lookin' good!
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
i have a few areas that i need to still work a bit, but overall the fix is in. Honestly the hardest part is getting the panel to separate, AND anywhere that they would use that damn "bond", that really sucks! It sticks together and is not easy to separate, heck it is almost easier to remove spot weld areas. This is how it was for me at least.
Now i must work the inside area... this is where i get a bit nervous. The outside part i just did is just one cut and match that was short, the inside, well that is a longitudinal cut and i am not happy about that... but quitters never advance .. so .... lol This weekend you may hear alot of screaming from Washington State!! |
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
i so want to get this rust repair done so i can get to what i like to do..... anything but body work!! LOL
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
The patchwork on the front looks great. I'm glad I didn't have to do that area. It looks difficult. Keep it up.
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