Rob's Garage Build in Process
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Guys, I have been lurking for some time with an occasional post. Lots of really great work by many of the members here. My project has been on and off for a couple years. Here are a couple pics from the beginning and now the current state.
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Re: Rob's Garage Build in Process
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Re: Rob's Garage Build in Process
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This is the current state of my build. Still tons of work to do. I am struggling with door, fender and hood gaps. What are you guys doing to tighten up the fender to hood gap? What is typical on stock trucks?
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very nice start! love the high float tires haha
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Cool build!
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oh yeah! lookin good... I love the pro street look
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l78vetteman;:mm:
just looked at your post. very interesting n some nice work. I'm working on a 57 chevy panel . Your post #3 last photo shows 4link with coil overs. What type of coil overs are you using? Have never used coil overs on a project before. How does one go about knowing which coil over to use. T-P Auto :chevy: Tim |
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Love the pro street look as well. AS far as your gap issue, find a few friends that can assist you. How you coming with the gap matter? Any pictures yet??
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T-P Auto.
Thanks for the kind words. I am running QA1 double adjustable coil overs with 6" stroke. (full disclosure, I am now employed at QA1). They are a good value and made right here in Lakeville, MN. One of the key things you will want to figure out is ride height and suspension travel. I wanted longer shocks to drop the rear tires down enough to remove them when the car is jacked up. Some guys with big tires need to unbolt the shock to get the axle to drop enough to change a tire. The other thing on coil overs is to figure out the right spring rate. This requires that you know the weight on the front or rear axle and the intended use of the vehicle. Drag race, autocross, street cruising... I also converted the front to coil overs - running a 5" stroke up there. |
Re: Rob's Garage Build in Process
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Gap issues... Large and inconsistent. Here are some pictures. I am thinking I need to add metal to tighten them up to about an 1/8". What are you guys doing? Is this a common problem.
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Re: Rob's Garage Build in Process
l78vetteman; ;)
Thank You; That did help me in knowing what I need to know. I'll keep you in mind as I get closer to the coil over part of the build. This build is for my sister to have a vacation panel. I'm using a 78chevy pu ft end assy with a 50 chevy truck rear frame. Did not want to cut out the floor for the 78 frame. So going with a 4 link n coil over on the rear. Will post a build link once I start. Still need to get a set( R n L) pillar for the cab. Thanks again. T-P Auto :chevy: Tim |
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Tim - sounds like a good project. Happy to help with ideas when you get started. Cheers!
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Nice mod on the front coil over. I wish I would have converted from stud mount to eye mount like you did. Way better design. |
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[QUOTE=BIGglaSS;8338488]Yes. This is the exact same areas I had trouble with on my 57. I welded 1/8" rod to the edge of the hood, and sliced the fender to close the gaps.
I checked our your build thread - Awesome fab work Bigglass!! Please post some pics of your 1/8" rod on the hood edge. |
Re: Rob's Garage Build in Process
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I did the same on mine, 1/8th rod in the door gaps on my fenders i made small filler pieces. Attachment 1818736 Attachment 1818738 |
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Rods57,
Looks good. Tedious work to weld in these small pieces. Thanks for the pictures. |
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Thanks for the pic and comments Bigglass:gi:
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Fender flares to make room for tires to turn a full compression. 235/60/15 tires on 7" wheels.
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I like your flare idea and looks cool. Nice job
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Smoothed the center of the dash. I am thinking about putting gauges in this area. Maybe oil, water temp, volts. Where are you guys mounting gauges? Maybe better to run an updated digital dash in the stock location. Like a Dakota digital.
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If you intend to install air conditioning I’d suggest you smooth the dash all the way across deleting the glove box. In hindsight I wish I had. I used Vintage Air and it allows maybe a 1/2” to 3/4” deep glove box that will hold literally nothing other than, well...gloves! Or maybe your registration.
I have seen guys put traditional Stewart Warner guages in place of the three factory knobs across the top of the dash, that looks good. But leaving the entire dash smooth also looks good. |
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Removing rust on hood support with hole saw and citric acid :devil:
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I hope to see your truck around town someday Rob
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Cheers |
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You’re building yours yourself which I truly admire. On my thread I relate the family circumstances that caused me to have others build the majority of mine but suffice to say if I’d done it, it wouldn’t be as far along and it likely wouldn’t be as nice as yours. One minor additional piece of advice (yeah, I know you didn’t ask for one!:lol:) do the work to a higher standard than you otherwise might because you will HATE re-doing stuff later if you keep it long term and decide you want a shiny, showy-er truck then. Really enjoying watching your build! |
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nice work, lookin good
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I have the hood rust repaired and holes cut. Next step is epoxy primer.
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Epoxy primer still wet and shiny...:bann:
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Still has a gloss 2 days later. It takes about 7 days for full cure. I think I have a coat of primer on all parts now. Rust-b-gone and on to the next step!
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lookin sharp!!
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Appears to be a Dana 60 under the rear. So, what's going under the hood?
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I am collecting parts to build 496 BB. Old school combination with maybe 600 HP Still debating trans... leaning toward a build up 4L60 to get overdrive at a reasonable cost. What recommendations would all of you have? |
Re: Rob's Garage Build in Process
A 4l60 or 700r4, probablywon’t live long behind a stout big block. They can be built stronger, but it all involves a lot of green. The 4l60e does pretty well behind healthy LS engines, but they have ECMs and TCMs to thank for that.
I think a 4l80 would be money well spent vs. upgrading a 4l. If you feel like shifting a TKO600 would work well. |
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