LFD's low buck truck build!
LFD's Low buck truck build This is a new project that I am starting at a slow pace when I have time between customer builds and life in general. It will be a diferent kind of build thread for this board. I will be showing all the work and most steps needed to do it your self. I will also be giving the hours spent for diferent tasks that I am doing so others will have a guild line for their own work. It may also help when looking for a shop to help you out on your project. I will be sharing any and all money I spend on this build. Some parts will be bought from normal shops, some will come from the wrecking yard and others will be donated or traded for Parts I have laying around here to help cut down on build costs. I just got these trucks from another board member that lost interest. The build truck is a 70 CST LWB 350 auto, ps,pb, A/C, disk and rear leafs. The price of the truck is not important because this build is to show how much money and time can be extected for doing the same mods to a truck you already have or may be looking at buying. Now for the build info. I want to build a low dollar 2wd short bed that is capible of towing my 16' car trailer and look good at the same time but not so cheap that their are compromises in quality or reliability. First thing is get it running and on the road as is. Then we will move onto the ride height, it will get drop spindles and lowered springs up front and in the rear I will keep the leaf springs and most likely do an axel flip kit, C-notch and a set of over load bags to level out the ride with the trailer hooked up. Once that is done I will move onto turning the fleet side bed into a short bed and cutting the frame down as well. I will show step by step pics for taking your fleet side bed and with a little cut and snip end up with a short bed and also cutting down your long bed frame to match. After that is done we will move onto rust replacement, body work and paint. I think this will be a fun build for all of us and I hope people get good info out of it. If you have any susgestion or coments please let me know, while I have a plan I will be following it is not set in stone and may change here and their just abit. Kevin LFD Inc. |
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Here is the truck that will be built for my new tow rig. Right now it has a new crate GM350 in it that had a broken bolt in the intake manifold water neck so it was pulled apart for repairs. I got this truck with almost all the parts needed to get it on the road and have a great start for this build. So far I have only found rust in the kick panels. The floor and rockers look real good but the water that ate the kick panels came from some where so I expect to find problems down the road that we will deal with. Alot of parts are in boxes in the cab, bed and many other places. It comes with a 67 parts truck that is not really needed tor the build but will come in handy for other projects in the shop as well as parts for other members.
Here are a few pic's from today after I got it home. I will get more detailed pics in the next few days. Kevin LFD Inc. |
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A few more.
Kevin LFD Inc. |
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I can't wait!
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After 2 trips to Sacramento making full loads we got it all home and I still had a few hours to play. I started with sorting out engine parts to put it back together. I was able to find most of what I needed but had to make one parts trip so far.
I picked up a new PS return hose, battery, thermostat and a new carb to maniforl gasket. I still need to get a dist hold down bracket in the morning. I spent $80.09 on parts today and 2hrs 20min in labor. I removed the valve covers and cleaned the old intake gaskets. This motor looks like it is brand new on the inside so I hope it runs good. I then replaced the intake and set the motor for TDC and dropped in the dist. I could not find a dist clamp in the parts boxes so I will pick one up in the morning. I then replaced the battery box with a new one (that was in the bed) because it was rusted out. I also put in the new battery from Napa auto parts. While looking for parts I did run accross a box in the bed that I was not aware of. It had two new stock mirrrors in it, lic plt bracket and light, gravel guards (don't know what they are) New rear bumper brackets and bolts:metal: I am not sure how much more I will be getting done right now because as soon as it is warm enough I need to spray project lemon drop with high build primmer for block sanding and paint. But as time allows I wil up date this thread but their will be down time between posts, sorry but customers come first. Kevin LFD Inc. |
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Great Idea! Thanks for sharing:metal:
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I'll stay tuned!
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I'm watching you.
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Great idea Kevin. Looks like that engine has never been run. Now if the tranny and brakes are ok. I've given similar thoughts to pulling our camper with my 69 step. Working on this one as time allows when would you expect to see this one on the road?
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Tuned in.
Brandon |
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Everyone buckle up :burnout:, this is going to be fun!!
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hey Kevin, i like the thread you started.im doing the same thing right now with a 70 chevy long bed that i picked up for $300.00 . it is straight and rust free.but it did have a rod sticking out of the side of the motor.my whole goal with this truck is to put together a cool looking parts runner and something i can haul my dirt bike around in.i might have to start my own thread as well.good luck and i look forward to viewing your build . Tony , Auburn Ca
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GO KEVIN, GO KEVIN :hm:
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Well right now it is 21* out side in sunny California and I will not be able to spray the primer on Lemon Drop so it should be running today and once I find a seat (and cut up the parts truck sitting in front of it) it wil be on the road. Comming off the trailer the brakes seemed good and I have two new rotors sitting in the bed as well! I am going to try and keep it a semi driving resto/ custom as it goes. I will swap out the rotors the same week end it gets lowered. then the week end I cut the frame I will pull the bed and set it aside for shorting, have the drive shaft made (one piece) and be able to drive it while I do the bed work. The only real down time will be when I do the interior rust paint work because I will have the glass out to fix and rust I find. This way I can finish the interior and put in new glass and keep it running while the rest of the body is done.
I have already been offered a set of Air Ride bags from "PorterBuilt Street Rods" to use for load levlers. He is donating them to the build I jusat pay shipping. I will get a bag price so it can be included in the build. Thanks Nate! Kevin LFD Inc. |
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Here are a few sub zero (21* close enough) pics from this morning. Like I said the only showing rust in the two kick panels but we all know their will be more that will want to come out and playas this build develops.
Kevin LFD Inc. |
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That's what mine looked like when I started, and we know how that turned out :rolleyes: . OBTW, since you were giving me such a hard time about the liftgate, it's a sunny 75 in FL:metal: !
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You contributions to this board by your detailed posts are priceless - now I've got another thread to watch very closely - thanks!
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Nice This is going to be a very helpful build
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I'll seriuosly be watching this one. This is the kind of info I need as I get into working over my `68.
Thanks a bunch! Muchos Gracias! And other stuff |
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Kevin,I'll be watching.I think you started this build to keep the customers coming.Sure as the devil we will be watching and waiting and you will get covered up with customers work.That's how life always seems to work.I'll be looking forward to seeing this come together.Maybe you should video some of this one too.
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Sweet I can't wait to see how it turns out!!!:metal:
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This will be another good one to follow. One question though, why not just leave it a long bed? I mean if you are planning on towing with it and everything? Besides, I like the long beds. Anyway, cant wait to see an update...
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Looks like a good starter truck
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Well it is running now and sounds good except for the exhaust leaks. It has some old rusty ful length headers on it that will stay for now and just get new gaskets later tonight. Today I had to buy a dist. clamp, PS belt, PS return hose, fuel - vac-heater hose's, ATF battery ground cable, air cleaner stud and cap nut. For a total of $126.20. That puts us at a total of $206.29 for a running truck almost ready for the road. I just need to put in a seat and make a trip to the DMV to get it transfered and registered (has a non op right now) and slap on some plates. The tranny works and so do the brakes as well as the posi:metal: I sitll need to time it and alittle tweaking that will happen in the next week or so. Here are a few pics of todays warm activity:rolleyes: Kevin LFD Inc. Total $226.20 |
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this is gonna be a pretty cool thread.
although we are all starting to sound like kevin groupies. sorry but my shirt is staying on! :b69: later, Frank |
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Cool build. 21 degrees, not bad, we were near single digits here the last few nights. Besides, you live in WINTERS.
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Yes I know it is "Winters" but still this is California is it not! The worst part is I have a 1200sq ft shop with a fire place and two propain heaters and yet I am working out in the driveway!
Well I think I will be doing plug wires tomarrow, what do you think? The header gaskets are in and it sounds better but they are still cr@p headers. I found a leak in the radiator, it looks like somthing was bumped into it and caused a hole in a fin. I still need to time it and check the advance on the HEI. What should this timming be set at? It has been so long since I have worked on a carbed motor:o How do you like the seats (2005 Tahoe):c2: Also parts that were tossed in with the deal. Has anyone used these for front seats? Well their is now another 6.5hrs in this truck for a total 9 hours of work and 5 hours for pick up and off loading (both trucks and parts). Kevin LFD Inc Total $226.20 and 14hrs |
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hey, this is really cool. helps alot with what can be done. thanks, i'll stay tuned....:cool:
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Awsome project, Ill be watching this one closely!:c2:
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I think that HEI ran best @ 12'ish on mine. Almost off the scale but hey "whatever it takes"///
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I've had hei's run great anywhere between 8 and 12 degrees just depends on the engine
also i've been told there is a difference for altitude but that could be just a rumor.:crazy: I always start at 8 and work from there Frank |
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are they full power for each seat? if so, do you plan to wire them up? |
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Thanks for the HEI info I think I used to run about 10.5 to 11 in my 327 64 nova but it has been awhile. Kevin LFD Inc. |
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id like to donate a little cash to your project if you trade me your rims for my truck ralley's 15 x 8"s
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...really makes me motivated to get outside and finish putting my engine together (yes...I have all the parts, just lazy I guess).
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Kevin LFD Inc. |
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Dams, soemone beat me to those rims....
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Well just like we all know too well the $ are starting to add up. I went to time this thing today and the HEI's advance is all coroded and froze solid. I shopped around for a new one and the best one I found for the money was thru summit (sum-85000R1 for $85.88) w/handling it was 96.83 to my door. I also needed new wires and the best value I found for 8m wires w/90* plug ends for my headers was from Napa for $34.31 (part# 7002.44). This adds a total of $131.14 to our build. If I was not trying to keep this a low buck build I would have gone with DUI's HEI for about $255. but the one from summit will work just fine for my needs.
Kevin LFD Inc. Total $357.34 and 14hrs |
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Here are the caps, screws, lug washers and lugs that I have for the rims! Kevin LFD Inc. |
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