Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Here goes the slowest, cheapest build thread you ever saw. I'm sure most of you are familiar with Rokcrln's low buck build. I'd like to say that is the inspiration for this, but I don't have that kind of cash or his skills. This is for the truly broke, parts scrounging, beater lovin', build as you can find it, that many of us really are.

I bought this 72 Jimmy from my local salvage yard. I had seen it and pulled parts from it over the last couple years. Not for my truck, but to help other members out. Which is why the rear hatch is gone and the spare tire carrier and one of the hold downs for the rear seat. I got what you see here, minus the wheels and tires, for $250.00. I think I overpaid a bit, but I'm OK with the deal.

It has front disc brakes (power), a fair top, windshield frame looks OK, rear seat is good, frame is straight and solid (I think), grill is OK with some surface rust, good visors and dash pad, front seats are there but need recovered and foam.

Now for the negative. Its rusted and dented as bad as I've seen just about anything. All of the drive train was missing except the axles. Front crossmember was cut out, big section of floor on the passenger side cut out, missing rear hatch, drivers door, passenger vent window, radiator, and probably a mess of other parts yet undiscovered.

Almost forgot, what are my plans for it?, you ask. Firstly is to make it move under its own power. Hows that for a lofty goal? Take a look at the pictures. It will be challenge to do on the super cheap. After that, make it street legal. I know that seems a bit much at first, but I have confidence in my mad build skills. Then comes the real challenge, make it a good woods trail crawler. I live on the prairie, so I'm not building a rock crawler, besides, they cost too much. Mudding requires large tires and lockers or spools. Go too large on the tires and the axles need to be replaced with heavier stuff, again, gets costly. But how about a good trail rig? You can get by with the installed axles, maybe add a cheap spool, NP205 is solid, get it running good with a good tranny and you can have a ball. Try and scrounge up a winch or make sure the trucks you're with have one and get good tow hooks. (BTW, this originally had tow hooks that are long gone. If it still had them, they would be sold to buy parts for this rig). So there it is, a man, a plan and a wreck.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_0309.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_0304.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_0303.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_0302.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/HPIM0831.jpg

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

To get it out of the yard, I needed to get it on some wheels and tires and also replace the rear axle U-bolts. The bolts were cut like he was going to pull the axle, then changed his mind and left it hanging from the shocks. So I scrounged a set of rallys without the caps or rings, but with 31 x 10.5 x 15 tires that have some tread left and hold air. Got them for $100.00. As a side benefit that has a value that I can't really calculate here, the same guy is allowing me to park the Jimmy near his shop. This pleased the wife quite a bit. Partly because she was not too thrilled with my new project and now she won't have to see how bad it really is.

The U-bolts were harder to find than I thought they would be. Napa wanted $60 for a set and had to order them, so I checked around and finally found a set through the local Auto Value store for a total of $19.99.

With the Jimmy sitting on the ground, getting those wheels on was not easy. The front was OK, but the rear was difficult because the axle was loose and out of position. Probably took 1.5 hours to get them on. Part of the delay was finding lug nuts. Salvage yard guy says to check on the cars out there, but 7/16" nuts are not nearly as common as 1/2" nuts, but eventually I had enough for 3 per wheel.

Getting the U-bolts solved part of the problem, but they don't do much good without the backing plates. He had moved the Jimmy around the yard after he cut the bolts, so they were missing. It took a lot of scrounging to find an axle with the correct U-bolts and plates attached, finally did find one the other day on a pile of axles. He cut them off this morning, I had to bring them home to drill/ream out the holes because of rust, so the new bolts would go through, then back out to the yard for the install. That went easier than just about anything done so far. New bolts are the only new parts so far.

I was supposed to be able to borrow a guys trailer to haul the beasty out of there, but the guy left his 68 parts chevelle on it and went out of town. I talked the salvage guy into towing it to town for me. Free.

For you guys that want to follow this thread and plan to subscribe, I would probably wait a while. This will be a slow moving build. Since the Blazer/Jimmy board doesn't have the traffic of the truck board, updates will probably not be missed, nor will they be super cool mods, at least not yet.

Cost $369.99
Time ~2.5 hours

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

There were a couple 67-72 trucks in the same yard, so I scrounged what I could for the Jimmy. Got some misc light lenses, brake and e-brake foot pads, little things like that. Probably the best score was a 2 core radiator.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_0323.jpg

In the Jimmy was a complete set of Chevy 4x4 hubcaps in very good condition, will be selling those. Also the original jack and hand crank (selling that too), and a headlight (one was broke).

I found a sweet deal on some other parts from a fellow board member that was trying to clear out what he had left. He had sold his truck and was getting rid of the leftover parts. For a total of $150.00 I got a passenger bed side for a Jimmy (good condition) pair of brand new floor pans, rear hatch (needs a little fiberglass work), a tilt steering auto shift column (too long to use for truck), a chevy tailgate band (selling) and a piece of a 67 grill (upper trim I think, selling).

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n.../orange_11.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...my/hatch_9.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...my/hatch_3.jpg


The new floor pans will be going into my truck. The homemade pans in my truck will be used on the Jimmy. The hatch I will repair and install fairly soon.

Hard to judge prices for my Jimmy, the floor pieces are $30 each usually, so that leaves $90. We'll call it $90.00 for the Jimmy for a total of $459.99.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I'll be watching this with great interest.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

:agree:

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Overpaid? The top alone, without the hatch is worth $250. Probably more. It seems like everyone wants a single-wall these days.
This should be a fun build! Why don't you have a board meet at your house? We could get a few people together and get a drivetrain in that beast. :D

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

The only reason I say this is because I have a brother-in-law who is the king of scrounge. Also, when I start adding up the prices of what I think it needs to make it driveable, it's more than I want it to be. My neighbor bought a complete running fairly nice K-5 for $800. His is a newer model, like mid 80's, but by the time I have $800 into this, it will still be a rusted, dented, maybe driveable beater.

Thank you again for the parts deal. I am trying to sell some of those items now to help fund the Junkyard Jimmy. If I do get a meet organized, it will likely be a while, but you will be one of the first invited. Bring the kids, my girls would love to babysit.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Another brief update, I realized that I have a 350 short block in the garage. I bought it off ebay last year for about $45.00. The crank had been turned down once and it had been bored out .030". I need to finish dis-assembly and have the machine shop check the measurements. If it can be rebuilt without boring or turning the crank again, I'll use it for the Jimmy. I'll just need heads and a distributer and a carb and a fuel pump. If the crank needs work and/or the block, I will stroke it and use it for my truck, which was the original plan. Then either sell the 283 or use it in the Jimmy. I think I might be better off by selling the 283 and then buy another 350 for the Jimmy, but I don't want to get ahead of myself. The art of the scrounge is to leave all options open for the moment the pieces become available.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

This should be a fun one! All those little parts do add up quick. I am sure I could have saved a few bucks here and their but I am going for a nice street/ work truck that you can hop in and drive anywere you want to go. So since you are doing a wheeler that is not ment to be a great looker that will save alot of money right their. Start checking the freebees for doner trucks. I have seen them for free that run from time to time.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I'm gonna watch this thread.Whats the plans door wise?They couldnt find the drivers side?Are you planning on cutting down truck doors to use or buy some from a k5 or jimmy to use?

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

They are all cut down truck doors;)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

The passenger door is good enough for now. It opens and closes, just needs vent glass. The yard offered a driver side door from a truck because he thought he had it around somewhere, but couldn't find it. The two he had on trucks were useless (latch cut out, or smashed in). I thought I found a good one in a pile. The outer skin looked OK, but it had been sitting in the grass for god knows how long and the bottom inside was gone and dented in on the inside (how does that happen?). I would have got it for free and could have then parted it out, but I have enough work to do.

A body shop near here has doors for $50.00. I have parts for sale on the parts board and sold some other things for about a $45 profit. I'll get a driver door soon. I want to get that and the hatch fixed and installed to close it up from the elements.

Rokcrln, I am not attempting to compare our builds, it's apples and oranges. I love what you do and you are showing how to build a really nice truck using your own abilities and saving money on the labor, etc. You do quality work and get quality work done for you (exhaust, alignment). Your truck will reflect on your future business.

My goals are way more modest here, mainly useable and safe, looks when the opportunity arises. Most of us don't have the disposable income to do what we really want to for our trucks. I have a great job that pays well, but I'm not a financial wizard for lifes daily expenses and am paying now for mistakes of the past (thank you MBNA, Wells Fargo Financial, Citibank Financial, etc. for your outstanding ability to suck in customers in need with low payments and high interest) Many of us have found great deals here and there, but not for the entire project.

If anyone following this build can see a need and has a means to fill that need, either in parts or ideas, please post or PM me. I am located in southern MN and travel all of that plus SW WI for my work territory. Iowa is an hour south of me, SD is 2 hours west. For a great deal, I'll drive. I have a company car (Dodge Magnum) with free gas and I can fit just about any part in it except the top and the hood, which I don't need. I even hauled the blazer bed side and hatch in it. Personally, I'm kind of surprised at the attention this has drawn so far. I hope I can make it work.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Looks like a fun project to watch - good luck with it!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I tore down the short block this morning. All of the cam lobes were good. The pistons looked OK. Double roller timing chain looked real good. Some of the bearings were showing copper, but the journals looked ok. The main bearings were already .030" over and the rod bearings were .010" over. I don't have a mic, just a dial caliper, so I'll have to wait to see what the machinist says. Hopefully a polish will do. The cylinders were punched once already to either .030" or .040", hard to tell with a dial caliper. There was no heavy ridge at the top, the pistons slid out without too much effort. It is a good casting, extra nickel and tin. Same casting as a Z-28 302, but only machined for a 2 bolt main. With some luck, I can just have it cleaned up, new bearings, rings and gaskets, oil pump, cam and lifters for a good short block. If I can ID the cam and find it fits my needs, I'll try to use it to save some cash.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_0336.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_0335.jpg

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

This is gonna be great!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I don't know about great. It may be better entertainment for you spectators watching this experiment fail.

Anyway, started fixing the rear hatch. It has a section cracked out where the support strut attaches and a crack by one of the hinges that goes down to the glass. First thing was to check on how to repair fiberglass. Couple web sites talk about how to repair boats from impact damage, which is a little different, but the idea still applies. They suggested using epoxy. Well, heck, I got some of that. So the support plate that was busted out is now epoxied into place. I will re-inforce that area with more epoxy on the inside and a little outside. After I'm satisfied I'll close up the hole using epoxy to hold a slim wood backer (door shim), then lay the busted piece back in after trimming. The crack I will spread open slightly and push more epoxy into.

The handle is missing a couple clips and the key, so I will have to investigate that problem. I don't care so much if it locks, I just want it to latch and open. Seems like there have been threads discussing this in the past. I'll search, but if anyone has some good info, please pass it along.

I also found the cam ID. It's a Comp Cams 268H, described by them as: "268H High Energy™ is our most versatile cam. It is a great high performance cam for small blocks and a powerful cam for big blocks. With its noticeable idle and great all-around power, the 268H cam is great for daily driven performance vehicles. The 268H cam is an ideal cam for pickup drivers who want major power increases. It is also good for big blocks towing heavy loads equipped with lower optional rear end gears."

I think that may be about as perfect as I could get.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I was looking over the pics and it looks like some of the rear frame has been cut off too.:(
Shouldnt be too much of a problem though,if you plan on running a "sport" bumper then you will just need brackets like off a truck to use.Or try to weld in some frame from another 72 K5 or jimmy to replace what's gone.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I think 1972 frames were like that.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Yeah, it looked a little short, but there were no cut marks or anything. It must have been done long ago for a homemade bumper or something. I don't think it will be much of a problem though. Like you said, get some brackets, or I'll just fab some from plate steel and build a stout bumper with hooks or shackles on it.

As far as the back end goes, my biggest worry is the gas tank. It's been banged pretty hard and I don't know if it leaks or not. At least they left the gas cap on.:rolleyes:

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Sorry to hijack your thread.71swb4x4,If I remember correctly,the 69-71s had the rear frame like the trucks but the 72s had a closed in rear frame sorta like the front frame horns.I also think I remember reading that when you put a older 69-71 tub on a 72 frame that has the boxed in rear frame there is clearance issues.Hence the notches in the 72 tub for the boxed in frame...as circled in red below.
Attachment 270691

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

If anyone has picks of what a 72 jimmy/blazer frame is supposed to look like, please post.

Found the thread on hatch handles for cheap:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=hatch+handle

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Some pics of what a 72 blazer or jimmy rear frame should look like...Notice the notches in the back of the tub.1 pic is Fuel Cell Guys,and the rest are of Luv's famous un painted K5 ("GQ")---which he claims is for sale ;)
Attachment 270693

Attachment 270694

Attachment 270695

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Wierd. I think I'll keep it as it is. I looked through the LMC book and it doesn't show any difference for parts like bumpers and brackets.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Another '72 with the notches
Attachment 271136

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

My kind of build!!!!!!!! A vote of confidence to all the "MINIMALISTS" out there...LOL! Did you mix up those pistons when you disassembled the motor?

Just a note on my minimalist approach. I like to get them running and rolling first so I can at least drive it around the pasture and in and out of the garage. This always keeps your interest up and increases the entertainment value of the project. Also a running project is always worth more if you find a better one or need to sell it.

I bought an engine for $100 that I knew had driven once but needed timing set (jumped a cog). It turned out to have great compression etc. Put about $100 into the motor and it is now running in my truck and looks like new. It will do until ALL the body work and interior are done.

Search craigslist for free parts, you will be amazed what you will find. Other good sources are used parts from guys doing "full boat" restorations...thanks gr8scott51! Put the vehicle together so that everything works so you can drive it safely. Next do one body panel repair at a time starting with the front clip. Leave the most difficult sheet metal work for the last item (cabs on trucks and body on the Blazers).

I will bet that only about 25% of the vehicles ever completely disassembled ever get put back together and running again. Even fewer with the guy that started the restoration. Just my 0.02. Good luck and I will be watching and enjoying this one.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Keeping it running is the philosophy I used on my 71 C-10. At least when I was down about the lack of a nice paint job, I could start it up and go for a ride. I also put off the more difficult body work on that one until last. The body work was done very poorly on the cab corners, rockers and floor. It is being stuborn coming out for better repairs (he welded just about every inch around the rockers, lots of grinding, chiseling and drilling).

As of now, I am continuing to make repairs to the hatch, epoxy and bondo for finish. I need to find some little pieces and know where another junker Blazer is. When I get time I'm going to head down and see if I can find more of my missing parts on that. I'll also be revisiting another two local yards that I haven't been too in a few years. They had a few trucks last time, but it's been too long now for me to remember what they were. Wish me luck!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

A quick update. All I've been working on for this truck is repairs to the rear hatch. As you may recall, there was a hole in it where one of the support struts is bolted on. I used epoxy for the repairs, just the stuff from the tubes and used wood shim material as backing for added strength and support. According to the fiberglass repair can instructions, they just use bondo to cover the repairs and sand smooth, then paint. My epoxy repairs are now done. I just need to finish sanding it down, skim coat with a little bondo, sand that, then paint it white.

Here's where its at now:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_0360.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_0361.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_0362.jpg

Before:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...my/hatch_9.jpg

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Looking good ;)

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Another part of this build is cost reduction. To that end I have been selling parts that came with it I don't need. So far I sold a tailgate band, beauty ring, and the jack and cleared about $65.00. I spent $5.00 on more epoxy. I already have some bondo and sandpaper to use up. I still have other parts to sell yet, some are listed here on the parts board. Some I will get on ebay soon.

I have also been scrounging a bit looking for the missing pieces. I remembered another blazer at a junkyard not too far away. First thing I'll do is call him and see if he'll sell the whole rig to me and for how much. Then I'll go check it out to see if there is anything I can use left on it and if I can then part it out or sell the rest to get my cash out of it. Who knows, the tub may be in better shape than what I have and I'll have to sell the Jimmy and rename the thread. I also have a number to call on a tip from another junkyard, and a possible parts rig sitting in a nearby town I'll have to do a drive by on. Wish me luck!

My total investment is down to $400.00. I hope to knock that down by another 100 or so.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

My 72 k5 also has the notches and the rounded rear frame horns.. This looks like it will be a great build thread keep us posted..

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Quick update, no real hands on work done this week, had to work. But found out that one of the potential donar trucks is gone. I'll be going to check out another one this next week. If I get time this weekend, I'll get the hatch cleaned up, bondoed, sanded and painted (rattle can) and installed.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

You've inspired me to keep an eye on my Blazer budget...wait...if I sit down long enough maybe this thought will go away :lol:

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I'm grinning ear to ear:) . I had to go out to the junkyard to see if I could get a door latch for the suburban cause it broke. The Tahoe he had there was already missing the latch so I drove around to see what I had missed for drive train gear. I found a 3/4 ton chevy (late 70's - early 80's) that still had the TH350 and NP205 in it. They sell trannies for $150 and he'll throw in the transfer case & adapter with it because "they don't get much call for them":metal: :metal:

I am stoked. I've been researching on-line for info for days now to learn as much as I could on the transfer cases and different set ups and it definitely paid off. Thanks to everyone for the help and info supplied. I just had my week made for me.:D :four: :five: :ennyd: :two:

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I really should get the axles also, the rear I'm almost positive is a 14 bolt. The front I couldn't ID because its buried in the itch weed (hate that stuff). The problem for me is that it would add to my costs for the axles, plus wheels, tires and whatever cost in misc. parts to switch them. But at least I know they are there. There are probably 3 or 4 of the rear axles out there, but I think this was the only 4x4 like it there.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Here's an offer:

PM me a list of smallish parts/pieces your looking for and if I have some of em in my 'over-flow' stash their yours. ;)

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Thank you! Once it starts getting bolted back together, I'm sure things I hadn't thought of will arise. I appreciate it.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I'm enjoying your build up, keep it coming.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Get the 3/4 ton stuff from that truck, you may consider buying it complete and using everything (Buying it all may save you some $$$ in long run) The front is an 8-lug dana 44 and the rear is a 14 bolt or dana 60. it'll add some strength to the Blazer. he may sell you the whole truck for 6-800 and that'll include the drivetrain stuff, axles, drivesafts, trans, transfer, etc, etc.

Good Luck!!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Went out to a new yard (for me) today. It was kind of sad really. They had more 67-72 chevy trucks than I had ever seen before, but most were either too picked over to matter or just didn't have much useable. At least for me. I found ONE K-5 Jimmy, double wall top (ok), not much else, but it did have the cross member and motor mounts I needed, $42.60. I did find a good fender and sub 3rd door, but left them there because I am doing the best I can to stick with my plan. It was a 69-72 chevy fender, so wouldn't work on the Jimmy, and I had just replaced the fender on my 71, so it will go to the next deserving owner.

I did not get to finish my hatch this past weekend, nor will I get to it next weekend because of the grad party schedule. If I'm lucky, I'll at least get my short block to the machine shop to get it checked out for useability.

Cost so far, 442.60 minus $18 for parts sold for a grand total of $ 424.00. I haven't picked up the tranny and transfer case yet, so I'll add it to the bill when I do.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Did some more sanding on the hatch. It's looking pretty good. I started looking over the handle area though and saw some work that needed done. With the hole in the side, and the little cover gone from below the handle, seems the mice found it to be quite a nifty little home. Turns out mouse pee is kind of corrosive. The steel plate that supports the handle was rusting and had pushed itself away from the fiberglass wall. Some of the rivets were corroded off. So I drilled them all out, got the plate moving to knock the rust off, took out the latch from one side and spent some time heaving the thing up, down, sideways, etc to shake out about half a cup of droppings and the nest. There is a little clip that holds the latch rod into the handle that was missing. I thought I'd never find one, but turns out they are the same thing they use for carb linkages, $1.00. New rivets, $1.00. Found a garage door handle at Menards for $6.00. Just need to finish the sanding/filling and spray some rattle can on it.

Also dropped my block and crank off at the machine shop. I'll find out next week if its useable. He said the cam wear looked normal and it should be ok for use with new lifters. Of course, if this was going to be a daily driver or if my budget was a bit looser, I'd put all new stuff in. But this build is what it is.

Total spent so far $430.00.