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1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
I would like to start off by saying thank you to the people of this site that put the information out there for everyone to use freely. Everything I needed I was able to find by using the search function on this website as well as LS1TECH.COM, and LT1SWAP.COM.
I would like to thank my friend Louis who owns Ashfords Automotive. He and I worked together for years in the automotive mechanic industry, and he helped me with finding all the plug pin-outs on his All-Data service that I needed so I could do my own wiring. The pin-out information is also available on LS1TECH.COM, and LT1SWAP.COM. I would also like to thank my machinist friend B.J. with Dubois Sheet Metal Works. I have been going to him for YEARS with my project ideas, and he has always been helpful and informative with my part designs and producing them with me. Your the man B.J.!! I ordered my pull-out from http://jjsautomotiveracing.com/index.aspx . I dealt with Brian and he was ALWAYS helpful and informative with whatever I needed and gave me a HELL of a price. In my package I requested every hose be intact and attatched to the motor/trans. I also requested all the wiring be un-cut. Here is a list of everything I received from Brian: 2005 6.0/4l80e 65,000 miles trans fluid lines trans to transfer case adapter oil cooler lines AC lines power steering lines fuel lines fuel pump assembly radiator hoses radiator overflow reservoir radiator end tanks intake tubing engine bay wiring engine bay relay/fuse box ECU under dash wiring BCM drive by wire (DBW) pedal TAC module gauge cluster Here it is the day I brought it home http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture043.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture044.jpg Out with the old 350 (never liked the gold Moroso bling anyway) http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture055.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture057.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture058.jpg My friend Billy http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture059.jpg Next I wanted to keep the body stock and not cut any extra holes. And I wanted to use the stock transfer case but I didn't like any of the adaptors/options that were out there. The advanced adaptor is too long and expensive. My np205 leaked from every seam and needed a rebuild anyway, so I looked at the Lo Max np205 upgrade kit. It came with a new case that has all of the different bolt patterns in the front face (like the 4l80e adapter pattern) rebuild kit with new bearings and gaskets/seals new 3:1 gears etc. I have to say that this guy knows his stuff, and he sells nothing but top shelf parts GUARANTEED! I had the pleasure of meeting the owner of JB conversions John in person and here's his site http://www.jbconversions.com/ . VERY intelligent man and he's also a huge off road enthusiast. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture071.jpg I wanted to keep the stock shifter and have it come through the floor in the stock location, so I designed a bracket that would bolt up next to the 2005 aluminum transfer case adapter piece. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture084.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture074.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture069.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture068.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture081.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture090.jpg Then the motor was ready to slide in for the first time. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture093.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture102.jpg I bolted the np205 up in the stock location and assembled the crossmember. Then I got to work on making the motor mounts. I already knew the stock front 72 crossmember wouldn't work, and I knew the LS engine blocks were designed to be a structural part of the chasis they were installed in anyway, so I made my mounts to suit. I can fab up a tubular crossmember later if necessary. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture122.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture123.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture126.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture124.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture130.jpg Frame brackets I made http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture128.jpg Motor plates I made http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture127.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture129.jpg Painting everything http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture147.jpg Once the motor was in place I discovered that the 4l80 shifter stud was in EXACTLY the same place as the th350 that was there previously, so I just had to bolt up the linkages and VOILA!! Sorry I didn't get any pics of this I was tired that night and didn't think of it again, untill now. I am going to ust the truck compressor with the vintage air kit, so I hade to make it work. I didn't want to spend a grand or two on a new serpentine setup when all I had to do was notch the frame and re-inforce it. I used a piece of scrap HEAVY wall 3 inch pipe. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture151.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture148.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture149.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture150.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture153.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture154.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture155.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture159.jpg Next I got to work on the gauge cluster. I wanted to use the 2005 cluster for a number of reasons, correct mileage for my motor, all the gauges I need are in one package, etc. I never worked with fiberglass before and thought this would be a good time to learn. So I used the old scratched up original 72 cluster panel for my first attempt. Later on down the road when I restore the truck, I will make another one with a new "pretty" panel. It actually came out o.k. and I know what to do, and what not to do for the next one so it will be perfect. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture106.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture109.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture108.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture111.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture110.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture160.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture161.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture214.jpg New acrylic face http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture215.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture133.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture132.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture131.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster003.jpg Ready for glassing http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster005.jpg I used felt fabrick from the fabrick store for the "walls" http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster006.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster007.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster008.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster009.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster011.jpg Then soak the felt with resin http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster013.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster012.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster014.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster016.jpg Now you can see the extra that needs to be trimmed/sanded flush with the 72 panel. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster018.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster019.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster020.jpg Then I used fiberglass cloth and resin to fill what was left of the old gauge holes. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster021.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster022.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster023.jpg A little bit of bondo/sanding http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster025.jpg I used Rust-oleum "Multicolor Textured" (223525 Aged Iron) to get the texture back and top coated with Rust-oleum "Flat Protective Enamel" (7776 flat black). Both are available at any Lowes store. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster026.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster029.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster030.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cluster031.jpg Next hurdle was the gas tank. I had JUST put in a new replacement metal tank in the blazer and had the old tank's filler neck soldered/brazed (however they do it) to the new tank. I also wanted to integrate the 2005 fuel pump assembly into it for several reasons, fuel gauge to work, correct fuel pressure, etc. My first attempt came out great. I made a mounting ring that had welded nuts on the back side for the fuel pump to slide down into. I then had a machinist buddy of mine machine a little ridge for the O-ring to sit in, and he cleaned up the center hole so the pump assembly would "just" clear it and slide down into it. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...install004.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...install005.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...install008.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...install009.jpg Then I made a top ring that would sit on the top of the pump assembly. The bolts (with sealing tape applied) would slide through this piece and squeeze down on the rubber o-ring sealing everything up. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...install010.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...install014.jpg But I found out when I installed it that it hit the floor. Just about 3/4 inch too tall. So I had to go back to the drawing board. Lucky for me the fuel pump assembly's metal rods let it "collapse". So all I had to do was drop the mounting level down an inch or so to have PLENTY of room. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...parttwo002.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...parttwo001.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...parttwo004.jpg The springing action http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...parttwo005.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...parttwo006.jpg Everything bolted tegether http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...parttwo009.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...parttwo008.jpg From there I ran my one fuel line to the engine. I capped everything else off except for the vent lines and mounted her up. Then came the radiator saga. My original plans were to find a radiator company that would make me an aluminum center section that was shorter than the 2005 so I could mount the end caps to it and install it in the 72 blazer core support. Since I had ALL the oil lines and trans lines, this would have been an affordable and EASY way to do this part of the drive line swap. BUT NOOOO, I got laughed out of radiator shops, hung up on, told me I was crazy "your putting a what in a what?" I left messages that never got returned, I got the run around, you name it. Everyone now operates on the "I can't find a part number in my catalog so that means it doesn't exist" philosophy. So I was on my own again..... Plan ""B" I ended up buying an ebay replacement aluminum radiator. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...adiator001.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...adiator006.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...adiator009.jpg And I decided instead of buying an expensive quality aftermarket fan, I wanted to use the camaro LS1 dual fans. They can be had ANYWHERE for 100 bucks, and there are affordable replacement motors available to service the assembly, so it's a win-win really. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...adiator011.jpg The bracket I made out of aluminum that allows the camaro fans to slide in and lock just like the stock on the camaro radiator. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics001.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics002.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics003.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics030.jpg Then I made a wiring harness that mimicks the factory camaro wiring all the way to the truck ECU. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics004.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics005.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics006.jpg Remember that I got the 05 upper and lower radiator hoses with my pull-out and the original plan was to use the stock 05 radiator end caps so everything would be easy? Well since I had to ust the 72 replacement radiator, the 05 hoses wouldn't fit. So I went to my local O'reilly's and spent some time looking at all the hoses hanging on the wall in the back. I have been using that particular store for so many years, they all know me by name and didn't mind me hanging out back there for a while. So I found a few that might just work and they let me bring them home for test fitting. Well I found the perfect two hoses. The upper hose fits like it was made for me, and the lower hose just needed a little trimming. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics039.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics042.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics038.jpg The two part numbers http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics043.jpg With the radiator section done I moved on the the coolers. I bought two B&M supercoolers to mount in front of the radiator, barbed fittings for the trans side and -10 AN for the oil side. I also purchased the Mocal LS series oil thermostat block with -10 AN male ends. Here is the link to the websites catalog http://97.74.103.94/files/newprod.pdf . I am also going to use the vintage air kit so the two coolers had to be recessed flush with the front of the core support for the vintage air parts to clear. In order to mount them flush I had to do two things. I had to move the lower radiator brackets foreward a little bit, space them up with a pieces of scrap 3/8ths plate and tack them down. Then I had to make two holes for the lines to go through and re-inforce them. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics011.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics007.jpg I used some HEAVY wall 3" box tubing scraps I picked up from my machinist friends shop. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics010.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics012.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics013.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics014.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics015.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics017.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics016.jpg Routing/making the lines http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics020.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics026.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics028.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics029.jpg I hated cutting the core support but it was one of those things that just had to be done. Next up was the power steering line. I brought the stock 72 high side line, and the 05 high side line to a locak hydraulic shop. The guy put a female swivel end on the 05 hose and brazed a male fitting on the 72 hard line. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics023.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics024.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics025.jpg Next up was the intake ducting. I choped off the little box off the bottom and fiberglassed up the hole with some extra glass mat and resin I had left over from the cluster project. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics045.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics044.jpg I then bought a K&N cone filter to attach to the MAF. Only one problem.... it was just a "fuzz" too big. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics033.jpg so I went to lowes and found something in the plumbing section that would work perfectly. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics032.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics034.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics031.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics035.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics036.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics037.jpg Allright guys, I need a break from my computer. I'll get to the rest later. I hope you enjoy. |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Cool project. Looking forward to the rest of the build
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Very nice, I have a 2000 6.0 that i'm putting into my '71 so this is a great reference, thank you for posting this. Looks good, can't wait to see it run.
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
I'm driving it every day right now. I'm just getting some time to put all of this stuff into a post.
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Nice! I really like how you married the new with the old. I'm attempting the same thing but with a 5 speed. I think we would all like to see some more pics of your Blazer.
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Thank you for the compliments, I'll try and work on the rest of the info for the post tomorrow.
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Looks super nice guy. One thing though. In the picture it looks like the pyrex part of your fuel filter is against the edge of your valve cover. Sure wouldn't want to see it go up in flames. Really like your dash cluster, good work.
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
For the wiring, I used the 05 under hood fuse/relay center. It was easiest this way because I wanted to utilize so many things from the 05 truck. I think it is easier to use the fuse box than it is to un-assemble and re-construct the engine harness to make it stand alone, but it doesn't look as neat and tidy. I had the complete dash harness, complete engine harness, and the rest of the plugs that went to the fuse center with about 6" of wire left on them so I could tap into them if necessary. I made some brackets to mount the box on the 72 fenderwell in front of the brake booster and ran all the wires through an existing hole in the firewall.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2001.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2002.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2003.jpg I ordered the re-pop drivers side battery tray from this thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...illary+battery Since the 05 truck wiring was set up for the battery on this side already it just made everything easier, and I can wire up a second battery in the original passenger side tray later if necessary. I also mounted the ECU under this tray, just because that's how the 05 was set up originally and I didn't have to rebuild the whole wiring harness to move it inside the cab of the blazer (I will clean up the wiring harness, move the ECU, and try to hide the wires later on when I restore the body and frame). For the Drive By Wire (DBW) pedal, I just made a metal plate that bolted to the firewall just like the stock 72 pedal assembly, and spaced the DBW pedal over to the left (it has a big "s" curve in it). http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2012.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2006.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2007.jpg And I welded the 72 pedal to the 05 assembly http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2009.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2008.jpg For the brake switch, you need a normally on(TCC switch signal for the ECU), and a normally off connection. So I used a 99-04 camaro brake pedal switch. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics021.jpg The camaro switch next to the 72 blazer switch. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...wappics022.jpg The little grey plug with the orange and blue wires is the "normally off" part of the switch (connect these to the truck brake light wires from the old switch). Also remember that if you are adding the HND-3 cruise, you have to connect the light blue "CHMSL"(center high mounted stop lamp) wire to this part of the switch also so your cruise will disengage when you press the brake pedal. The blue connector with the pink/white, green/white, pink, purple wires is the "normally on" part of the switch. I connected the TCC purple wire from the 05 brake pedal harness to the purple wire of the camaro switch. and spliced in the hot from an extra pink wire from the truck harness. The camaro switch fits EXACTLY like the stock blazer switch. It even uses the exact same thin metal nuts as the blazer switch. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2010.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2011.jpg Since I have DBW, it was just too easy to buy the Dakota Digital HND-3 and wire it up per ACKATTACK's thread here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=398006 Here's mine (I even used the EXACT same relays with the pigtails, and I used 3 more of the same pigtailed relays for the electric camaro fan harness I made) http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2017.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2018.jpg One difference though since I used the under hood fuse box. I just used the dash harness wires that ran to the steering collumn connector instead of the wires coming directly out of the TCM (they actually come from the C100 plug from the engine harness and follow inside the dash harness loom to the collumn connector). I also did this whith the ignition switch wires that ran to the column connector and the brake switch wires from the 05 brake switch harness. Here are a few of the general things I learned about the truck fuse/relay box. Make sure you put power to the fuse/relay box for the Ignition "0" circuit or your trans will not shift (stays in a "limp" mode). Ignition 0 circuit is normally powered back through the dash harness from the 05 under dash fuse box, so unless you are using the under dash fuse box in your swap, you need to replace this power signal. For this I just found an un-used pink wire from one of the under hood fuse box plugs and switched the pins (dissassemble the plug-slide the pins out-switch them-reassemble the plug-plug it back in). Find all the pin-outs for your year engine/harnesses and print them out, your life will be a lot easier. Don't get overwhelmed. Take it one circuit at a time, one component at a time, and before you know it, you'll be done. I finished all my wiring in a few afternoons once I got started on it. Label all your wires you are going to use. I went to office depot and bought a box of 1000 3.5x15/16 "stick on" white address labels (was only a few bucks). These when folded in half around a wire, are just the right size to write a description on. You will never have to look up that wire again, so you can move on to the next one. Masking tape would work also. Solder and heat shrink all your wire connections. Go to your local electrical supply store (not radio shack) and buy the good thick heat shrink. At my local shop it comes in 4 foot lengths and you just cut a little piece off as you need it. It takes a little longer to do things this way, but you won't have to worry about that connection ever again. And a loose connection will drive you crazy later when your swap is not running right and you don't know what to do (Learned this from my years in the automotive mechanic industry). SEARCH-SEARCH-SEARCH. Every answer you need is on LS1TECH.COM, and LT1SWAP.COM somewhere, as well as this one. It will save everyone a lot of time, if YOU find the answers to your questions (not to mention more satisfying to know you did it yourself). What I mean by this is every time I went to search for something I had to troll through a few dozen dead end threads of people asking the same question I had with the only replies being.... SEARCH. Here are a few pics of the truck I took today http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2021.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2019.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2020.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2016.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2015.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...appics2014.jpg |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Very nice job. That dash cluster is awesome!
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Awesome build and write up. I am sure you have already helped a few people out!
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
:agree:
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Well, I know I left ALOT out, but everyone's wiring needs are going to be different. The plug pin-outs are going to change depending on what year/type vehicle you get the drivetrain from. And everyone will not want to use all the donor vehicles components like I did.
I just basically wanted a new truck. I could have gone out and bought a brand new 2011 2500HD, but it's not what I really wanted. Ever since I was a kid, I've always wanted this body style blazer. So the swap was just to make it a reliable daily driver. I don't think my blazer is anywhere close to some of the trucks, blazers, and suburbans on this site. I spent ZERO time doing anything cosmetic. Just a straight up engine swap for now. |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
I am about complete with mine too.....http://new.martymontez.com/?page=photos&s=&y=1&p=1
I had the same idea for the dash cluster. MAy as well...like you said, it goes with what's under the hood anyway. My gas tank is a mystery in that it was replaced by the original owner in '74 with this HUGE 37 gal tank made of 3/16 inch steel. (heavy). Eventually I'll rebuild another like it with the in-tank pump. ( I can't stand the noise. It's embarrassing at a stop light) one question...how long did it take you to write that first (awesome) post???? ( which is why I sent you a LINK instead...)MArtyhttp://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4942643_n.jpg |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Sorry it took me a while to get back to you Marty, my computer took a poop. Well I had to download all the pics to photobucket, that took about an hour (I didn't use all the pics I uploaded). Then typing and pasting pics took about 45 minutes including flipping through my notes.
I hope I didn't come across too harsh with the "search" comments. If there is anything you want to know you can ask me. Thank you for checking out my thread. |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
You deserve a Medal for all the kind hard effort you put into this thread, so thank you!
Boy... you sure make me feel like a lazy good for nothing though. |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
nice fab work
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Nice! :metal:
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
awesome work, good job on everything..... I think for the gauge cluster, instead of building another one down the line.... just go to HomeDepot and get some of that sone/gravel style rattle cans and spray it.. that way it will cover the little wavyness and it will look kind of stockish
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
I used the rustoleum (speckled textured stone look) stuff to get the texture back, then top coated over that with flat black. I included the part numbers for the cans in my first post.
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Nice write up and thank you for the info..
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Dude awesome thread and a special write up this is a great project with wonderful details and with a really neat project nice job on the swap and the blazer i will be looking for updates on this one
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Very impressive!!!!!
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Very cool thread to come across after being MIA for awhile, way to mix the two eras together.
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Sweet looking conversion. You might want to throw this in the truck section for all the 4x4 guys.
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Superb job! You are gifted.
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
It's been a while but I had time today to upload a bunch more pics to photobucket so I could make another post.
I re-did the trans cooling lines with AN-6 fittings and braided lines. I used rubber hose from the auto parts store and brass barbed fittings from Lowes initially just to get the truck driving. In the meantime I researched and found the exact fittings I would need to make the permanent lines. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1188.jpg The secret parts that really made it happen were the radiator fittings that have the right bevel and screwed right into the auto trans cooling sockets on one end and with a -6AN male on the other end http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1189.jpg Also the special 4L80 fittings that screw right into the case and extend into the pump just like the factory clip fittings. They are available here: http://www.sweetperformance.com/prod...wCat&catId=243 And here is a pic http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1190.jpg Here's a comparison shot with the factory clip fittings http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1197.jpg Here are the install pics (the brass 90 fitting coming off the radiator next to the -6AN fitting is for the steam line to the throttle body, I left it like it was since it really is not that vital) http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1191.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1192.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1193.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1194.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1198.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1199.jpg I could not get in the trans tunnel to get any good pics of the lines there. I just screwed the special -6AN trans fittings in place of the factory clip fittings, and put a 90degree swivel -6AN fitting on them. I also did the vintage air install. When I ordered the kit, I specified that I wanted the high side and low side lines UN-CRIMPED AT THE COMPRESSOR END. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1133.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1137.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1138.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1143.jpg Nothing special there except I had my friend at the local radiator shop crimp the VA high and low side lines to the 2005 truck hard lines at the compressor. Everything else installed like normal with the rest of the kit. And it works great. Next up is my 1 ton axle swap Dana 60 and 14 bolt M1008 axles. |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
O.K. guys, here's the axle swap.
I bought an 84 M1008 off of craigslist. Parted it out and kept the axles which were the only items I was really after. The teardown begins. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1202.jpg I sterted finding all sorts of problems like this grenaded hub lock gears. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1205.jpg And half the teeth were sheared off of the ring gear as well as the pinion gear teeth. When the teeth let go they got caught up in the carrier chewing up everything in the pumpkin. Sadly I don't have any pics of this, I wasn't thinking of the camera at the time, only explatives and plots of P.O. murder. So the parts quest began. I'll try to remember everything and break it all down into a list, I have included part numbers where available): http://diy4x.com/ http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1145.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1213.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1212.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1217.jpg 14 bolt rear disk kit easy inch 14 bolt guardsman 14 bolt razorback bolt on shock mounts greasable bolts (12) FG engine crossmember kit (for a later date) FGB52 kit w/frame eye hanger and shackles FG axle flip-n-switch kit with shackles http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog.htm http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1220.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1215.jpg bolt in steering box kit (GU29001) extended brake lines front and rear (Gu30011) PSC economy steering box (80-872WD) (later version box with O-ring type fittings) U bolt kit for Dana 60 U bolt kit for 14 bolt http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/ http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1210.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1209.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1211.jpg Double shear D60 kit (HSA611) Full steer kit with 7/8 QA-1 Heims (STE-623-1) D60 diff cover (DIF-2002-2) 14 bolt diff cover (DIF-2001-2) Captain Fab Hydroboost Kit with his tool http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=347480 http://www.rustysoffroad.com/ RX200 shock (R-211) (for the rear) RX200 shock (R-213) (for the front) http://performancetruck.com/ http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1219.jpg Deaver/Stanley spring (002x/22-613) (front) Deaver/Stanley spring (200x/22-579) (rear) http://www.classicheartbeat.com/default.htm Brake rod boot 72 blazer front brake line set (inline tube) http://www.highangledriveline.com/default.htm http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/136.jpg 14 bolt 1350 u-bolt yoke NP205 rear flange kit 1350 CV drive shaft (will also buy the NP205 rear E-brake kit at a later date) http://www.ringpinion.com/ D60 front ring and pinion kit 4.56 D60 front axle carrier rebuild kit with shims/bearings/seals D60 shaft u joints D60 hub rebuild kit with all bearings /seals D60 kingpin rebuild kit D60 set-up bearings Eaton E-locker Warn premium locking hubs 14 bolt hub rebuild kit with bearings/seals 14 bolt front pinion seal http://www.partsmike.com/ D60 lower kingpin cap (PM37299) (custom made with recessed grease zerts) D60 ARP studs (ARP-D60AK) (ballistic fab F-ed up my order and I had to buy three of these studs from parts mike to finish my install) https://www.rockauto.com/?merchant_r...ockAuto%2C+LLC http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1218.jpg Front D60 brake caliper rebuild kits Front D44 calipers with soft lines Brake pads Brake rotors Brake caliper banjo bolts with copper crush washers for front and rear That's all I can remember at the moment. |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
I found a set of Hummer H2 rims off of craigslist for 150 bucks, that I couldn't pass up. I had been reading all the tire torture tests in the 4x4 mags and on the websites. The Hankook Dynapro MT-RT03's always performed well on different terrains, had a good tread wear rating, and were on the quieter side at highway speeds. So I found a set in 35's for a great price from a tire shop that was closing down and liquidating their inventory.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1185.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1184.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1187.jpg In my research, I found out that 07-11 silverado center caps fit inside the recess in the H2 rims. So after a trip to the local dealership, and tire shop, this is what I had. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1223.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1225.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1222.jpg While I had the axles all taken apart I brought a D60 and a 14 bolt hub to my friends machine shop along with two of the silverado center caps. I had him mount the 14 bolt hub in his lathe, and screwed on the center caps one at a time. He turned them down in the middle untill they fit around the D60 locking hub. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/100_1380.jpg I won't bore you with the axle rebuilding stuff, it's been beaten to death all over the internet on Pirate 4x4, Colorado K5, etc. But I will show you the after pics. Front http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/037.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/035.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/034.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/032.jpg Rear http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/026.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/029.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/028.jpg This is the bracket I made out of stainless for the "T" fitting to bolt to. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/027.jpg These are the brackets I made for the soft lines to pass through. They fit between the leaf springs and the leaf spring pad. The hole where the soft line fitting passes through has been filed to match the "key way" so it is fixed, and won't spin in the bracket. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/030.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/031.jpg I put the truck up on jack stands and used my cutting torch to cut the rivet heads on the rear hangers. Then I used a hammer and punch to knock the rest of the rivets out. The DIY4X brackets then bolted up where the rivets used to be. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/041.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/042.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/040.jpg For the front, I did the same thing, except I installed the steering box and steering brace while it was all open, and I could reach everything easily. As well as the new front brake lines. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/096.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/097.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/098.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/100.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/101.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/102.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/104.jpg For the rear frame eye hangers I had to cut a new hole further back so the shackels would be vertical with the weight of the vehicle on the spring. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/106.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/108.jpg |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Hydroboost!!!
I snagged the hydroboost unit from the donor truck when I got my pullout a few years ago. I ordered the Captain Fab stuff from the previous link, as well as stainless steel braided teflon lined hose kit from Talon Hydraulics so I could fab up all my own lines, and they are rebuildable in the field if necessary. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/079.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/080.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/099.jpg Also picked up a factory style disk/disk proportioning valve while I was at it. (NOTE: ditch the shiney new proportioning valve bracket for your original one, the new one positions the proportining valve in a different location, all the replacement lines fit with the proportioning valve hung in the factory position) http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/056.jpg Talon Hydraulics also supplied the cut to fit pushrod kit. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/053.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/065.jpg This is the tool I made to press out the original pedal rod, so I could install the threaded Talon Hydraulics rod. (NOTE: you can't press off of the hydroboost housing itself, you have to press against the little collar that is crimped around the ball end) http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/045.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/044.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/046.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/048.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/073.jpg I also ordered the weld on bungs from Pegasus auto racing. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3259 And welded them on my power steering reservoir. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/078.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/081.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/082.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/085.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/086.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/103.jpg Here's the pinion tool I made so I could install my new 14 bolt 1350 pinion yoke kit. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/125.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/126.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/128.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/129.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/131.jpg Torgued it down to 350 ft/lbs, then finessed it down till I had between 25 and 30 inch pounds of rotational resistance. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/135.jpg The High Angle Driveline shaft is PLENTY beefy for anything I'll do with this truck. (NOTE: that's a quarter I'm holding) http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/138.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/137.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/136.jpg Next, since I had to move the frame eye shackle hangers back for the front longer leafs, I had to ditch the factory 1972 trans shifter set-up that I have been using on my 4L80E. Here's the new bracket I made to bolt to the trans, that lets me use the 72 shift rod. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/139.jpg I cut through it a little bit just enough to where I could twist it and get the proper shift rod geometry back. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/140.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/141.jpg All welded up. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/143.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Blazer/145.jpg |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
How are you going to make the speedo work with the cable output from the 205?
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Well I took the rear housing to my friends machine shop and did a little work to it. I machined a flat spot on the case, drilled the proper sized hole, and threaded it for the factory 2006 4L80E 4x4 style rear speed sensor. I then took the original speedo cable piece and welded it up to seal the hole, didn't have a plug handy that had that thread pattern.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cture070-1.jpg You can kind of see it here. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture091.jpg Far away, but these are the only three pics I could find that actually show it. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...cture093-1.jpg I did have more pics, but that computer died a horrible death, and I was only able to salvage fragments from the hard drive, which means I lost a lot of pics from back then. Like of the tone wheel I used with the spacers I made(just find one that fits the splined output shaft and make your own spacer sleeves to put it under the sensor). When you torque down the rear pinion, it will press against your spacers and keep the tone wheel from sliding back and forth in there. |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
thanks for the help.
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Niceguy,
I am finaly to a place were the instrument cluster is the last item to get knocked out and I am having a hard time figuring were these wires hook up. A4 Brn 41 Fused ign feed - A5 Gry 1036 Serial data class 2 A12 DkGrn/Wht 1932 Trans shift select switch signal B5 Ppl/Wht 1382 LED dimming signal Also does your hazard lights / High Beam / Cruise indicator show up on the dash cluster? What wires feed these? Thanks for your help... sorry wiring is def my weak point |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
I am currently working on making the BCM work in my truck. Kind of a side project just to get the little lights to work, like the headlight on light, high beam indicator and the E-brake light. But to get all your gauges to work, all you need to do is tap that grey serial data wire into any of the other serial data wires on your harness. If you don't have any of the dash wiring, you can splice it into the serial data wire on your OBD2 connector. All it has to do is tap into that one wire system to be able to communicate with the other modules, like the PCM, BCM etc.
What year pull out are you using and does the cluster match that same vehicle? You may run into some problems if you are using different generation (body style) parts. Also as a side note: another reason why I'm de-bugging the BCM stuff is to get my battery gauge to work. All the other gauges work off of the PCM gauge values that pass through the serial data wire. The battery gauge on the other hand supposedly gets it's info from the BCM. The BCM watches the charging circuit and operates some kind of battery monitoring system. The BCM actually operates the battery gauge. I have been daily driving my truck for years now without the BCM wired in, and without a battery gauge. All other gauges work fine. I have tried messaging all the wiring guru's from ls1tech.com as well as other sites, but no-one has been able to help me finalize the BCM integration. Not many people want to use the factory gauge clusters. I used mine because it saved me from spending another $1000 on gauges. |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Ghettoluxury,
I also forgot to mention that by putting the sensor after the transfer case like I did, makes everything work like it was stock. Meaning the PCM thinks the original transfer case is still there and needs to see a switch signal when you put it into 4LO, because the gearing in the transfer case changes the speed of the tone ring. When I sent my computer off to get modified, I told the tuner to change the values in the 4LO equation to match my new 3:1 LoMax gearset. I then hooked up a simple toggle switch to simulate the signal that the original truck would provide when you pressed the 4LO button on the dashboard to shift the original t-case into 4LO. If you don't put a switch in, and you put your transfer case into 4LO, the truck will run and drive, but it won't shift out of first gear, because it sees something is wrong with the transmission or the transfer case because the sensors are not reading the right speeds of the tone rings. It's some kind of "limp mode" to protect the transmission. |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
I have read your build a few times. I really like the choices you have made so far and your truck is very similar to mine. I chickened out on the B52s up front so I will be interested to see what kind of road manners they have. I was led to believe the longer springs would be too soft for highway driving and I need to be able to use my rig as a daily driver or for road trips...
What shocks will yo be running? Will you have a front swaybar? |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
I used Rusty's offroad shocks. I put the part numbers in one of the posts above. They are really well made, and so far give a nice ride. I am not running a sway bar, but I might if I find it's necessary.
At the moment I am fighting with pitman arms, so I have not put any real miles on the set up yet. Evidently, there's only two manufacturers who make pitman arms for everyone. Those two companies have the spline hole tool for the pitman arm splined hole. Well according to what I've found out from purchasing many arms and shipping them back and forth, the tool is very worn and is producing large variances in the past few years. I have measured three arms side by side BRAND NEW off the shelf, and found 70 thousandths difference between them. That's HUGE when you are trying to fit a tapered splined shaft. I am done with the "ford style" 3 inch drop arms, I should have known better than trying to use a F****'n ford part on my truck. Right now I am on the "dodge style" 4 inch drop arms. I found an old used one on ebay that measures within 5 thousandths of my output shaft, so well see. It fits nice and tight at the bottom of my splined shaft so it should get really tight once torqued on. I am looking into welding some pieces to it so I can have the heim joint captured in double shear, another reason why I am using the 4 inch drop arm. Here are some pics so you'll know what I'm talking about. This is the ford style arm 3 inch drop "teardrop arm" http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...mfordstyle.jpg This is the jeep style arm http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...mjeepstyle.jpg And this is the dodge style arm 4 inch drop (more robust of the three) http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...dodgestyle.jpg |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
O.K. I finished the Pitman arm mod. I did a lot of research, and talked to a few professional welders and they all said the same thing about welding on forged steel. You have to heat it up to between 400 and 500 degrees before you weld it, and then you have to cool it down in stages over a long period of time.
I took the pitman arm to my buddies machine shop and had him bore the tapered end out to 3/4 inch with his end mill nice and slow. I also had him do a scrap piece of 2" x 1/4" flat bar, so I could make the top piece. I have a gas oven and I preheated it to 450. While it was preheating I tacked all the pieces together. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tmanArm001.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tmanArm002.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tmanArm004.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tmanArm005.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tmanArm007.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tmanArm008.jpg I then put the arm in the oven and left it for two hours. I pulled it out and ran outside with it and welded it up. Of course I didn't weld it with the heim joint in there. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tmanArm010.jpg I then ran it back in the oven and baked it at 450 for another hour, then I turned it down 50 degrees every hour after that untill it was at zero. I left it in the oven the rest of the night without opening the door so it would cool down to room temp as slow as possible. The next morning I took it out and tried fitting the heim joint back in there and it had shrunk down just a bit, just enough. So I mounted it in my vise, and broke out the trusty old Nicholson file and "messaged" it just a bit on the pitman side, until I had a slip fit with a little tension. |
Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Wow, what an awesome build. Your fabrication knowledge and skills are really impressive! Doesn't seem like you're scared to get into anything. Very nice work and keep the pics coming
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Re: 1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax
Thank you. I just try to make/build things as heavy duty as possible. I do a lot of homework on the internet before I get into anything, just to make sure I don't miss something. My blazer is nowhere near as nice as some of the others on this board. Everything I have done is functional, I haven't spent any time restoring anything. One day in the future when I retire this blazer from active duty, I will worry about making it "pretty".
You can't take a pretty truck down a trail and have REAL fun in it. |
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