68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
I am starting my build and I'm going to post it all right here. It's a 68 c10 long box originally had a 250 6 in it and 3 spd column shift. Dad bought this truck when I was 3 there is sentimental value. I am putting a 6.5 turbo diesel its a 1995 it will be modified. It's going to get arp head studs all new bearings,rings,etc it will have a holset hx 35 turbo also. I already got a mech 1993 6.5 pump for it and I'm going to tweak it boost will be a mild 27 psi. The trans and this is were a lot of people will fuss its a t5 that I modified and built. This is a combo that I have not seen anyone do if it blows o well this is more of a test anyways. The truck has all poly bushings and cab mounts and will have poly engine mounts. Anyone that I have seen do a 6.5/6.2 swap uses big block mount stands which raises the engine up. For anyone going to do this swap you can use your original engine stands unless they are 6 cyl ones. All that has to be modified is the L mount stand you just cut out the rib and weld a piece of 1"/1 1/2" angle in. Also you have to use a 6.2 non turbo exhaust manifold on the L side to use the mech clutch linkage. The engine sits in there like it belongs not to high like the bb stands oil pan clears just fine too. The truck has a 3.73 gear and with the overdrive it will cruise real nice. I'm lowering it 3 in the front and 6 in the rear if your wondering why only 3 in the front it is because of the additional weight. This is a cruise truck not a race truck that's why a t5 cheap and reliable if not abused plus has overdrive. Pictures are coming
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
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here are pics of the L turbo manifold and why it will not work also pic of L engine stand and why it needs to be modified
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here are pics of engine in truck just the block/heads/turbo/manifolds also pic of modified L engine stand
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here are pics on R engine stand and clearence on manifold also top pick of L stand and manifold clearence and pic of trans/bellhousing/motor with cab off
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
The 6.5 will make a great cruiser! I had an 82 sub with a 6.2, 340k miles when i sold rthe engine. Buyer knew more about the quality/ desirabilty of the 82/83 red 6.2 than i did at the time, but i got $1k for engine only, still made as much power as it ever did (not alot) but didnt use any oil even at 340k miles! Just dont try to tow more than a 14ft flat bottom boat with it. South texas was once littered with 6.5 td trucks with broken cranks from trying to tow loaded cattle trailers. That is Duramax territory now!
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
I'm just saying this to save you a lot of trouble - but you are not going to be able to run 27 psi without lower compression pistons. The factory 20.3 : 1 CR of the 6.5 will take that much boost. At the very least, you need some thicker head gaskets to lower CR. Cometic makes them for these engines, but they are kinda pricey. Still cheaper than pistons though...
Good luck with your build. I put a turbo'd 6.2 in my '67 C-30 and at 12 psi, it will smoke all 4 rear tires in 2nd gear. |
Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
Sorry I did not put all that I am doing to the motor. The pistons are going to be milled .030 for lower compression this will put it around 18-1. The marine 6.5 runs 18-1 and lots of boost headgaskets will be felpro and head studs. This build is fun and will turn heads I am painting motor chevy orange with chrome valve covers. When the hood is opened it will look like a gas engine with a turbo but with a closer look you will see its a diesel.:metal:
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
Cool engine swap, good luck with it
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
subscribing
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I had a 1/2 ton 89 Silverado I pulled my racecar and countless wrecks with. It had 120k on it when Irebuilt it from a wreck and put another 270k on it before I put it out to pasture and didnt use for quite a while. Once I needed it I tried to start it it never would pick up fuel ,instead of a tuneup I put in a 5.3 4 l60 e I had laying around. I loved that 6.2 I had some 6.5's and the 95 were the worst model but I see you have already addressed that with changing the pump to a better one so the problem is gone. Enjoy being different with that one. Jim
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Thanks for all the compliments. I did fix the old issue with the electronic injection pump I solved that problem by throwing it away! I needed the mechanical injection pump anyway to adjust the fuel.
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
Picked up the L side exhaust manifold from a 6.2 today. I'm putting it on tommorow and figuring out the clutch z bar bracket also. I'll post pics tommorow
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
This sounds like a great project
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I've got a 6.2 turbo diesel in my 71 K20. It's a nice conversion and it works well. 18 MPG....can't complain about that. :) :metal:
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
the fuel mileage is one reason for the swap the other because its different
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I think that the 6.2 and 6.5 diesels do not get the respect they deserve. They are not powerhouses but they move these trucks around pretty well.
Good luck on your project. :) |
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Thank you and you are correct they do not get any respect. When treated right these motors outlast the truck and have plenty of power. Here are pics you can see how the 6.2 manifold clears the back of the block. The third pic you can see the hole in the bellhousing on engine were im going to mount z bar stud. The last pic is with z bar in hole and you can see how much the frame mount needs to be moved. I am going to shorten the linkage from pedal to z bar and put a bend in the end down to z bar. Looks like all will connect and work like factory.
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
Looking forward to seeing this thing finished.
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Here are the pics of the clutch linkage I made/modified. The bracket on the frame is tack welded to the frame for now. I am going to bolt it down once I remove the cab again. I had to cut the linkage from pedal to z bar and welded it at an angle as you can see. I also cut a piece of metal for support and welded on rod. I also cut lower rod for proper operation.
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I got the 6 inch drop rear springs in from ECE. I also removed the cab and drilled and mounted the z bar bracket on frame. Sorry about the fly in the pic:dohh:
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
I had to space mine up, but I used BBC mounts, so that may be the difference.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1269215350 |
Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
BBC mounts do raise it up alot. I didn't like how much it raised it up that's why I stuck with the sbc mounts. All in all the mods worked out well I'm happy with it.
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
O yea BBC mounts also move it forward about an inch that's another reason I went sbc mounts.
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Here are pics of the trans build. I had them on another old post when I was going to put a 350 in the truck.
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more pics
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Ok question time what do you think is better stage of paint single stage or 2 stage. What primer should I use the truck is going to be white. I am going to be painting this my self so keep that in mind. I already know that it wont look like a pro paint job. Also people around here can care less if you have a nice paint job. In fact I think they get a kick out of running and banging into a nice paint job.
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well got the one piece driveline. All lines up good tearing it down for frame paint and front end rebuild. I will post some pics of it painted.
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here is the frame all painted came out good also cleaned all the old riveted exhaust brackets of the frame and the rear bump stops
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the frame all painted got the rear end painted poly track arm bushings in new bolts, rear springs what you think?:fb:
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
Well it looks like your going to do it up right starting from the ground up, I'm sure you'll love that diesel motor in there and its cool, its different. I put a 6.2 in mine and wouldn't change a thing...
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Looking good!
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thanks for the feed back it keeps me moving forward thanks guys
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Re: 68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel
Great start so far
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got the engine back from machine shop also installed all the brake lines and found a uncut rear light harness.
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the rest of the pics
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update pass inner rocker rusted out got 18g metal put 90 deg bend in it and weld it in seam sealed the edges. Also undercoated the whole under side of the cab. Also cut out some small sections of rusted out floor and welded in patches. Cut out some heater delete patches and stitch welded them in will fully weld them tomorrow. Put cab back on frame installed poly cab mounts starting to come together.:metal:
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finished heater delete plates tacked them in for now. :fb: also a pic of cab on frame
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