Lt1 Engine Harness & Swap
I am in the process of doing a swap on my 1970 c10. My question is what should I do with the wiring? Should I go with the painless kit or send it out to get it modified? Does anyone know where I send to get it modified? OO the motor is Lt1 is out of a 1994 Z28 and it is an automatic. And how would I remove all the smog pump stuff and the unnecessary sensors & components?
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Street and Performance in Mena Ark. I have been told Painless harnesses are not actually Painless.
Mike |
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Im running into the same situation Ken. I have to swap an LT1 from a Caprice into my C10 and the painless harness seems nice but its too $$$ at $600 plus the reprogram. I may just end up reusing my stock harness with the addition of a VATS disable module. Keep us up to speed on your situation and progress.
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I just did a zo6 vette motor in a fiero and we used a street and performance harness. Very nice. custom made it for us to the measurements we gave them. Big money, but very nice and went in with no problems. I think the painless ones need a little more work that the street and performance one did
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I had my harness done by LT1 wiring. www.lt1350.com
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I used one from Howell Engineering on my 48.
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I used a painless on my truck and had no problems. As far as the smog equipment, you just have to have it programmed out of the computer. Speartech or Street & Performance are two places that can reprogram the computer (around $200.)
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Yeah the vette motor in a fiero is definately a wild ride. almost scary how fast it gets up and goes. street and performance charged us like $1300 i think for the harness custom built to our lengths with all the connectors for every thing on there and the reprogramming of the computer. everything was soldered, heat shrinked. got an obdii plug. we could put the computer wherever we wanted and the plug wherever we wanted. pricey, but nice
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Update: Got my harness from spear tech. Cost me 800 Bought a new harness and sent in to get my computer reprogram.
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Smog-wise you don't have a lot to worry about in the PCM aside from programming out the EGR valve if you want that gone.
The pollution pump is electronic, and I don't believe that system is in the computer at all. Just unbolt the pump, leave the connectors hang, and plug up the exhaust manifolds/headers. After that the only thing you'd have to worry about is the O2 feed after the cat(s.) But since your car's a '94, you don't even have one. The rest of the sensors are needed to run the engine properly. |
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Ive got a question about these harnesses. Do they just cover the motor or the whole truck? I mean am i going to have to buy or fashion wiring to run to the lights, A/C, gauges, etc.? The LT1 Painless harness doesnt mention anything about it but my buddy HartRod said his 67-72 Painless harness covers the whole deal.
low4life1 - I cant make heads or tails of the S&P website...can you tell me what exactly you ordered? pdr510 - I will be running A/C. Ive been told I need to notch the frame or get a vette setup...any ideas? Thanks |
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Send it to Speartech, it's cheaper than S&P and the work is of the same or better quality. Google for them if you need to. They're on the LS1tech forum. This is an idea of their LS1 harness and the things you can expect from them:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=583994 Look at post #7. |
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I think Painless normally covers the whole truck and includes the new fuseblock if you get that package. With Speartech, it covers the harness for the engine, gauges and peripherals along with relays and fuse blocks to protect your wiring from what I gather. If you go for a less expensive solution like Wait4Me Performance, like I did, it covers just modifying the harness and you gotta install the relays and fuse blocks/fusible links yourself. Here's the thing - you can re-use a lot of your factory wiring. When I just redid my wiring, i have a 1-wire alternatore on the new drivetrain, so i deleted the voltage regulator, tied together the three hot wires that were on there (one for voltmeter gauge, one for interior dash power), then taped it up. headlights will still be running the same power run as before, gauges will still use that power lead. Then you can use the part of your harness that previously did starter, HEI and other gauges accordingly (delete the unnecessary gauge wires, use IGN purple wire to the starter on new engine, and HEI wire for fans or something similar). |
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Suggestions?
Unless that harness is pre-modified, just go all Painless or call Speartech for the closest thing to a plug-and-play install. Here's the deal: If you get a harness for $200 and it has to be hacked, that is $200-400 worth of work if someone else does it. That's $400-600 total. For $750 you can get the pimp-daddy Speartech harness that kicks ass. Best thing to do? Call Speartech. Call Painless. Talk to a tech about your situation. You are going to learn more from that phone call than you will with 10 days worth of posting messages on an internet forum. Be sure to share your findings :) |
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Does any know what good header setup would work with the swap?
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LT-1's like Hooker long tubes from what I've heard from a bunch of guys with way more experience than I.
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Do you guys know if this is needed? And what is it?
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/3271/1wk8.jpg http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/8484/2zs2.jpg http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/782/3iw3.jpg |
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I've done a few of the LT1 conversions and the best and cleanest results always started with the stock harness. The last one I did was with a Painless harness and it was bad. The wire length was a mess and there was a bunch of wires missing.
As for the PCM, you can program it yourself with LT1Edit. Even with little programming skills you can eliminate the VATs, change the idle, modify it for larger injectors and more. If you go crazy you can program it to do anything you want. If you don't want to hassle there was a company called PCM4less that was very reasonable. Good Luck, Whit |
Re: Lt1 Engine Harness & Swap
3 Attachment(s)
Kenneth - I believe the sensor in the first picture controls the EGR, most people remove it. I'm not sure about the other two.
Rat72 - Where do you get LT1Edit at? How much? I used a Howell Engineering harness in my 48 and had no problems. Here are a couple of links that might help: http://www.fierolt1.com/top-end.htm http://www.fierolt1.com/bottom-end.htm http://www.theherd.com/articles/lt1_cool.htm |
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A/C Delet EGR Block off Throttle Cabel Setup Headers Radiator External fuel pump. |
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As far as the smog goes....its 94 and OBD1 so you can just unhook/cap everything off. You need to remove the balencer in order to take of the tube that connects the A.I.R. Atleast I did in the car....if the motors out Im sure you will have enough room to fanagle it out. The smog pump on that cars electric....help in by three bolts, unhook it and throw it in the trash, but that will leave a 3/4 port on your air intake duct open. As far as the EGR goes....chuck it, theres two ports on the back of your intake you need to block off, or spend $300 and buy an LT4 intake. The LT4 intake doesnt have any emissions anything on it....just one vacuum port on the drivers side for the booster, and the PCV valve/vacuum port thingy. You will notice the car runs 10 degrees cooler and has more power....but runs a bit richer. And those vacuum/electrical things you posted pics of, you dont need them. If you follow the hoses...they all lead to a T on the rear of the intake....which lead to the EGR valve and the EGR solenoid. So you can chuck them along with your EGR system. And the connectors are all them "weather pack" style so nothing bad will come from leaving them to dangle. And that thing on the front by the throttle body....I dont know what that is, neither my 95 nor my buddies dads 92(vette) has it. Just a suggestion...hit up Dynaspark and get rid of that ****ty gen I opti- http://www.dynaspark.net/products/ Hope that helped, if you need anymore info or advice on LT1 go-fast parts just let me know, Ive owned two F-Bodies and built 15 or so of them engines. Mitch |
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I think ima go With this fuel pump. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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you might want to do some research on the emissions requirements...
It's been 3 years since i left the CHP to go active duy military, so it might have changed, but as it was, Installing a newer "emissions controlled" motor into your classic vehicle, negates any exemption you may have. the motor was designed to have emissions equipment, and therefore must be tested. do your research now, and save yourself a headache later |
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In some year ('96 or '97), all Corvette engines were LT4, right? I suppose it would work then, but ... I am sketchy on that one, I just recall reading that the block of the LT1 and LT4 are essentially the same, but the heads have diff't angle. |
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