engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

I am getting ready to head out to the wrecking yards to look for an engine to build. I am looking for a 350 with a 4 bolt main. I have a list of engine block casting numbers and thats about it. Are there any other things I should be looking for that would make one engine better than the other? Any casting humps, bumps or numbers?

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

68 and earlier heads have no bolt holes in heads. you're probably going to want the bolt holes.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

You may hear this more than once, but I have to say it: You're a lot better off buying a block. Newer, sturdier, better metallurgy today, you know exactly what you're getting, and you dont' have to have it bored/honed/decked/checked/cleaned/painted. I want to build my own engine, too, but I'm certain going new block or better yet new shortblock 383 with forged innards is the kind of foundation on top of which you can make many horsepower for many years without hassle.

If you must junkyard scrounge, you won't find a lot of 4 bolt main 1/2 t trucks in the 70's - 80's. They were almost all 2 bolts. Look for 68-72 hi-perf cars with small blocks would be my guess. Or, 70-72ish hi option pickup.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

If you go for a used block don't worry about four bollt vs two bolt . The two bolt will be fine . However make sure it is in good condition . If you have never rebuilt an engine you might save money buying a crate engine .Check the cost of all the machine work that will have to be done to the one you want to rebuild .

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

i thought that most trucks had 4 bolt main? :crazy:

i thought they were built as low horsepower mules, and built to last. i.e the 4 bolt?

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

From what I'm told, trucks of the 69-72 vintage are the most likely to have 4 bolt mains besides the impossible to find muscle cars of that era. Mine is a 4 bolt, 10% tin, 20% nickel block with "010" and "020" cast on the front (under the timing cover) and rear (under the transmission bellhousing) of the block. That makes it one of the toughest factory blocks available.

My brother has a '75 1/2 ton 350 but it's only a 2 bolt. Maybe 3/4 and 1 ton trucks were more likely in later years to be 4 bolt but that is only a guess. IIRC, my brother's block was a high tin "010" so that makes it better in that regard.

Since 2-bolt blocks can be converted to 4-bolt, you might look for the high tin2-bolt block and and convert it over.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

You can build a very healthy engine with the standard 2 bolt mains. The 4 bolt thing is way hyped out for street engines.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

Generally if the upper hole in the block by the bell housing is drilled & tapped it is a 4 bolt main. Most all the 70's 80's 3/4 & 1 tons are 4 bolt mains but have small valve heads. Like the guys are saying, you dont need 4 bolt mains for a street engine.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

Unless you are planning a high-rpm 400+hp engine, 2 bolt mains will be just fine.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

This will tell you what casting numbers to look for.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

If you're going to build a high-rpm (over 5500) over 400HP engine, you'll want forged rotating assembly and the 4 bolt. But I agree with the other buys, 2 bolt and cast should give you a long life of cruising and you can still safely make good power.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

If you really want 4 bolt mains,you can have them added at the machine shop.The outers will be splayed and are supposed to be in a stronger part of the block webbing.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

IIRC the splayed 4 bolts are stronger than a factory 4 bolt main!!

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

It will be hard to find a good one a pick a part. Most of 67-72 trucks are striped of drivetrain very fast. If engine was in it, it was opened up. Scavengers get there before everyone else. By the weekend all the good stuff is gone. I go there sometimes for small stuff. Craigslist maybe a better deal. Goodluck.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

i can't believe no one has said this yet.
you don't want an old 350. Get a 5.7 engine.
The one piece rear main seal is a nice feature, the center bolt valve covers are great if you get the leter heads with it, but most of all, the 5.7 engines have a revised oil system, and a roller cam.
I'm sure you've heard how the normal oils you get off any shelf is low zink, and will end up wearing out your camshaft lobes (and all the talk is VERY acurate) The roller cams don't need the Zink.
A high nickle 10/20 block is great, a 4 bolt is cool, but in all reality, it's all useless if the cam gets wiped every 50,000 miles or less.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

not all 3970010 blocks are 4 bolt mains i have both 2 and 4 bolt 010 motors. the stamp on the right front block just fwd of the head should have a 2 or 3 letter suffix example V0605TJC OR KO50TJZ THE TJC AND THE TJZ is the suffix and both are 4 bolt main motors there are many others also Happy Hunting. imho I'd be looking for a late 90s 1 pc rear main seal, fastburn heads, roller motor. reasonably priced and can make good hp on the cheap

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

You should look for a Gen III =]

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

ok if you want v8s the best years for the engines are 1968 and 1969 you want 4bolt main engines 327 302,DZ 350 400 396
now if you want inline six engines years 1967,1968,1969,1970,1971
1972 the chevy 292 or if the chevy 250

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

I'm with everybody else here on the 2 bolt mains being over-rated, but I'm also on Andy's side with finding a newer engine. SOME things do get better with age.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

there weren't 4 bolt 4 bolt 4 bolt 4 bolt 327s

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

here's watcha do.................call the local Chevy engine machine shop Guru guy..................tell him to use one of his blocks he already has checked out (cost me 150.00, I didn't have to pull it, hot tank it or mag it...........it was all done) tell him whatcha wanta do and call it good. That guy who does it everyday every week every month every year is the guy to talk to. forget the yards, the shopper papers, the bulletin boards etc.

CALL THE MAN!!!!:metal:

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

Good idea

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

Thanks for all the information! Now I'll have to look into that 5.7 engine idea. My truck has AC and I wanted to stay with the original compressor. Will all of my other parts bolt on to the 5.7, alt. and power steering pump? I did find a 3970010 block except the stamp code threw me when it came out as a 165 hp engine. Must be the heads that make this one such low hp.

Oh by the way,:tim::tim::tim: HAVE A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS AND THE BEST NEW YEAR!!!!

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

Man you hear some funny stuff on this board. Some of what I have read here is the exact opposite of what most engine builders will tell you....you'll have to be the final judge of course, but here's an old guys' take on it.

From what I gather you want to look for a 010, 014 or 379 block. The newer blocks [80 to Gen ll intro] are nowhere nearly as well cast as the older ones. The high nickel content is what you want if you want a tough motor that will stand the test of time.

Forget about the centerbolts...especially ANY from the 80's cars or trucks. GM wasn't building good motors then. It was a time when the stop gap motors and trannys were built when the EPA was running rampant putting restrictions on emissions and mandating MPG figures. From '89 on they weren't too bad, but before that I wouldn't touch one or the transmission behind it.

You are going to have trouble finding a good motor at a yard although it's not impossible, craigslist would be a better idea. There is a ton of truth behind the 2 vs 4 bolt motor and most of the 010's [the most desirable block of the old ones] were 2 bolts. Some say the 2 bolts are stronger and I've had both and I can't dispute that a bit.

As to the oil/zinc thing...I've been running vintage blocks all my life and have never had a minutes trouble with a cam, nor have I hear a word about it from any car or truck expert. Not saying it ain't true, just that it's never been an issue for anyone I've ever known. I've always run Castrol oil...not sure what the zinc content is, but again, no trouble.

All that said, Lucky has a point....the gen lll's are the best motors to come out of GM since the 350's were put to rest and the 5.7's took over. For me, there's nothing good in between and I wouldn't waste my time.

Finally you can add a roller cam & timing chain to any small block. I had one in my '78 Elky SS and that motor is still running today with over 200k on it. I will say the one piece rear seal is a very cool thing...but that's about the only good thing about an early 5.7 IMNSHO.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

facts;
The vortec heads outflow any stock iron small block head
the 5.7 is just as good as the vintage blocks... not many vintage engines made it 200,000 to 500,000 miles and never been rebuilt
Early 80's engines were just as crumy as most 70's engines, it was the crap on top the engine that made them lame
Zink has been removed from oils for about 2 years now, look into it and it's effect on old school cams.


Talk to the people who you plan on working with on your engine build, talk to the cam people, get pro advice on top of ours.
Might want to look over on the engine and drivetrain board too.... this has been covered there too.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

Go as simple or as complex as you want. The best thing about all this is you will come out with a strong engine no matter the direction.
I choose to do it simple and let the engine builder gather the block and bottom end stuff. Let him shop for you while you get the rest of the truck ready. He knows the best sources and prices for the parts and will get them and let you put the engine together or have him do it. If you start with the machinist he will guide you through the end product( My guy even had me drive it in to set the total final timing and gave it the blessing to go pound ashphalt..............I dare ya to get any of the crate engine builders to do that for ya! Heck, he even gave the rest of my project heap a thumbs up as he tuned it for no charge.) Keep it local my friend!:metal:

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

I'll give you the Vortec head statement...they do outflow most stock heads.

I completely disagree with the block statement though. They were crap until 1989, most any builder will agree with that.

Also the internals in the 80's were trash as well. Not many 80's motors made it past 90k.

And it's zinc with a c....only the Germans use the k.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

This 3970010 engine I found, I understand this casting was used as a 302, 327 and 350 and it was used in Corvette, Camaro Z28, Trucks from 1969-1980.

My question is. What made the difference in the HP as this casting had horse power anywhere from 165 in the late 70s trucks to 370 in a Corvette.

It's time to open gifts, gotta go but I'll be back.


MERRY CHRISTMAS

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

[QUOTE=69gumby;3045959]This 3970010 engine I found, I understand this casting was used as a 302, 327 and 350 and it was used in Corvette, Camaro Z28, Trucks from 1969-1980.

My question is. What made the difference in the HP as this casting had horse power anywhere from 165 in the late 70s trucks to 370 in a Corvette.

the cam, the heads and aspiration. Also the compression ratio. The high power factory vette engines used a domed piston.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

Ill chime in one more time . I will agree the newer rollers are the best if you can find a good rebuildable engine . Also money ,if that is not aproblem do as others have said go to local machine shop they can do whatever you need or want for your engine and the two bolt maine blocks will be fine for 400 to 450 hp. Finding good old stuff is getting harder to do its been all used up .You need to decide what kind of power you want and how you are going to use the truck. If i can post it on here another great site is Hotrodders.com they have great engine info.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

OK I am going with the old 350 rebuild. I found a 3970010 block 10 / 20, four bolt main short block out at the pick and pull wrecking yard for $130.00. I haven't done much other than get her home. The engine was complete I took the heads and stuff off as the engine was a low HP truck motor, I didn't want to pay for stuff I was going to throw away. The Suffix Code is TXA which is 1975 C20.

What is the casting number of a good head I should be looking for and what ones do I want ones do I want to stay away from.

I can't wait to get going on this. I haven't built an engine since I was just out of high school. LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG AGO!

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

Looks like you got a good foundation. A block core alone with 4 bolts with no machine work is about 200.00. Good basic heads for this fine cali fuel I would look for some 882 or 993. They have the hardened seats already. You also though cant go wrong with some new castings. Ask your machinest about some. They are very thick and all set up. Figure they go for about 400-500 bare and maybe about another 100 valves and misc parts. I am in the bay area if you are intersted. Doing this for over 18 years now in the same shop.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

chevybuldr, here are a couple pics of the valley.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

Congratulations on the sweet find. Like Chevybuldr said, those blocks usually go for $200, so you got that one at a bargain. I'm not familiar with 993 heads but a tech article several years ago on Chevy Hi Performance flow tested 882, 441 and 462 heads which revealed the 882's flowed best. 441's were the original head on Old Yeller which make lots of torque but are resticted on the top end. If you're going the stock head route a pair of reworked Vortec heads don't cost much more than reworked 882 heads etc and make much more power and, IMO, that's the only way to go.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

[QUOTE=Longhorn Man;3045721]facts;
The vortec heads outflow any stock iron small block head
the 5.7 is just as good as the vintage blocks... not many vintage engines made it 200,000 to 500,000 miles and never been rebuilt
Early 80's engines were just as crumy as most 70's engines, it was the crap on top the engine that made them lame
Zink has been removed from oils for about 2 years now, look into it and it's effect on old school cams.


Nothing but the truth right there.

That said , the block you got will make a nice motor .

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

I'm probably gonna get flamed for this but here's a fact...882 heads are prone to cracking. I have 993's on mine and was told they flow better than most others and are very reliable. So far I have 16k on mine and love them. I've got hard pull from 1k rpm all the way up to about 4500 [as far as I have gone on the new motor].

I've had bad luck in the past with two sets of 882 heads and learned my lesson. Everyone I have talked to in person has told me to stay away from them since.

Good score on the block BTW...you'll no doubt be happy with that one and don't fret the low HP....a bit of machine work will get it ready for what you want to do. Nice price too!

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

These head numbers you all are talking about are these the last three numbers in a longer number? If so what is the whole number?

Also these vortec heads, will they bolt onto my 3970010 block and will my AC, Alt, Power steering just bolt on.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

It's the first three numbers. (Edit: oops should have said last three.)

Yes, everything bolts right up. The only difference is the intake manifold and valve covers are different. Vortec intakes and valve covers are readily available. For instance Edlelbrock makes a Vortec version of their Performer RPM and Air Gap intakes.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

Here is the Tx Firefighter way of building engines...

I buy a vortec era truck engine core from my local dealership. They charge me 200 for one.

This way, my core comes with the nice, late model one piece rear main seal which don't have leak issues. It also comes with a roller cam and associated roller cam accesories (lifters, valley spider, bolts, shorter pushrods), and a pair of vortec heads.

Yes, they are usually run completely out, but they make great foundations for a build up.

And what Andy said about the zinc being removed from oils is right on the money. The old school flat tappet cams are suffering and will continue to do so. This is an EPA mandate and we have no say in the matter.

Re: engine hunting, what should I be looking for???
 

yes they are....here's the Mortec snip on my heads...

3998993....current..350.........Goodwrench crate motors,"Hecho en Mexico", 75cc chambers

There's another 3998993 head that went on the 72-73 307/350's. I was told the newer ones were better, but in all truth I didn't compare them, there were on flow numbers available for the old ones.

Here's the 882 number....

333882.....74-80...350/400......76cc chambers