CPP Brakes SUCK!!!!!!!!!
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These are my rear brakes i ordered from CPP. I am not happy!!!! The pads are either to big/ rotors to small/ or the brakets set the caliper out to far! I was hearing a grinding noise when i hit the brakes and CPP said "they just need to brake in". Well i have about 3000 miles on them, the noise hasen't gone a away and this is what i found when i pulled the brakes off tonight. Notice the hard edge on the pad? Noice the pieces of the other pad that fell off? how about the crack in the pad? CPP SUCKS !!!! I WILL NEVER BUY FROM THEM AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I know how frustrated you must be but I would sure give Jeff from CPP a chance to make this right. Most people think Jeff is a great guy and I think he would be willing to help figure this out for you.
Just my $.02 worth! |
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That is a problem with the pads. I had that happen once on a 96 Chevy truck. I could hear excessive grinding and discovered that the pad was overlapping the rotor just like yours did. Since the pads were new, I didn't want to waste them. I ground the edge of the pad back with a bevel and the problem went away.
Since your are cracked from excessive heat, you will need to replace them. As 72K20 mentioned, I would get in touch with CPP Jeff. He has been going WAY beyond normal to offer great customer service. |
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I sent these same pics to CPP and they said "I can't see what your talking about". I think these pics are pretty good. What do you think? can anyone see what im talking about?
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a better explaination of what the pics show would help alot....i know you are frustrated, but take the time to explain what each pics represents....
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Whats happening is the pads are actually sticking to the rotor before the release. That is why they over heated and cracked. I compared my old pads to a new set and could see that they were glued to the backing plate a bit higher. I feel strongly that the issue is with your pads. If you replace them and it's still doing it then I am wrong, I just don't think I am on this one.
I don't know who you talked to at CPP, but I still suggest you talk to Jeff. He is jumping through hoops taking care of our members here. I feel he will get your issue resolved. |
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That sucks...
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i thank everyone for thier help on this!! I REALLY do!! I have contacted CPP before for other problems i have had with their parts and i got nothing but a "good luck" from them. I have figuered out ways to make their stuff work but when it comes to my brakes (the way i and my daughter stay alive) NO WAY!
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okay im dumb when it comes to this forum, why did this post get moved to the "review board"?
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my eyes arnt the best but to me the picture looks as tho your caliper mounting plate doesnt appear to b square to the axel flange . if that is correct it would cause your outboard pad to b higher on the disc than it should b
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so what's the plan?
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Idk. maybe pick up a set of the willwood replacment calipers.
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Looking at this picture I see the lip on the edge of the friction surface. Unfortunately some of the brake pad manufactures make their pads with the friction in slightly different positions on the brake pad. The only harm is the lip generated as the pad wears. Since it is a wear item it does not amount to much. If the crack in the friction is on the outer pad I recommend checking the axle for end play. It is common for the axle to have some end play, however if the end play is to much the outer brake pad can act as a limiter for the side to side movement. As the axle is limited against the pad it will be dragging the brake against only 1 brake pad, usually the outer pad since the caliper can float towards the inboard direction. It will make the brake pad get very hot. This may have caused the crack in the friction surface. You should also check to see if the brake is holding pressure after the pedal is released, this could also cause the brakes to operate at higher temperatures. There are many factors that could cause the brakes to hold pressure. I have seen several instances where the original brake system had rust build up in the brake lines. The rust can become loose when bleeding the system for the new brakes. The rust can cause a blockage that holds residual pressure in the brakes. When this happens people are quick to blame the new brakes even though the rust problem is there from the old brakes but did not become evident until the new brakes were installed. Also double check that the bracket is square with the rotor. Drum brakes can be mounted on crooked and uneven flanges without any problems; the shoes simply mount on a spring loaded pin and follow the drum. Disc brakes require a much more precise mount, and many axles are not machined all that well from Chevrolet. If the brackets need adjusting simply shim the mounting bosses until the brackets are straight. You kit should have included a package of shims.
We normally sell this kit with calipers that feature an internal parking brake. The internal parking brake calipers work much better for C-clip axles. They allow the axles to move side to side more without affecting the brake. The caliper pistons can not compress from the normal end play found in C-clip axles. I recommend using the calipers with an internal parking brake. Like someone else already mentioned, you can easily chamfer the edge of the brake pad where you see the lip, but that will not address the heat build up in the outer pad. Since I did not perform the installation I can not tell exactly what the problem/problems are. Start by checking the end play on the axle, it is usually the cause. The end play will make the bracket flex, build heat, and misalign the friction material with the rotor. You can call me and I will help identify the root of this problem, but I will need more information. FYI: switching to another caliper will most likley solve nothing, espically a caliper without an internal parking brake. Sincerely, Danny Nix CPP |
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I read this post and had to comment. I ordered a full set of front and rear disc brakes for my 64 as well as a power steering bracket. The PS bracket did not fit, the front brakes required maching to their bracket to properly line up and the rears required extensive work to get the caliper properly aligned with the rotor. The brackets were off by .090 in order to even get the caliper and pads over the rotor and then the caliper was so high on the rotor that
.100 thou of the pad wasn't even contacting the rotor. My calls to CPP only made it worse because they "never have any issues" and my truck must be somekind of misfit. Aaaron was a complete jerk even after I sent pics of the inproper alignment saying that I assembled it wrong. Long story was I spent tooooooo much time and money after buying their bolt on crap. These guy shave no clue and even worse customer service. "ITS ANYONE FAULT BUT CPP's" DO NOT BUY FROM CPP sorry but I don't want to see others get screwed. There are several reputable guys out there...you might pay more but the stuff will fit. Lucifer |
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i ordered a set of leaf springs and had planned to order many more parts
from CPP. After nearly a year and being sent 3 sets of wrong springs, I finally got the right set only ater asking for Aaron's supervisor. I had asked him to get somebody to actually go over to the parts bin and see if someone had actually put the wrong spring in the right place, but he wouldn't do it. I agree CPP stuff looks great and I see it on other trucks, but I can't seem to get any of it without an extreme aggravation. It's good to know of a contact. |
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To CPPJEFF I would love to give you the opportunity to make it right.
How do I contact you...when I asked for someone above Aaron I was told that there wasn't anyone?? Lucifer |
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I just spent $40 on brand new A/C Delco pads to try and fix this issue myself. Both sets of pads rub on the rotor, and the rotor hat. On both sides, even after it was centered.
I'm not sure if 1980-1985 Seville rear brakes are the way to go anyway. Seems a little dated. Wilwood from here on out. |
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Sorry, I didn't have time to take pictures and troubleshoot.
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No, to be honest I lost my patience with the overall CPP experience. I hit a wall with the response I received over the phone. It probably would have been wiser to check with you first, instead of wasting some much time on hold and trying to get someone live over the phone.
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OK I know this is a very old thread. I was researching CPP brakes and came across this. Looking at the top left picture, it looks like MAYBE the backing plates were not installed correctly, and cdowns also noticed the one in the picture appears to be crooked.
It appears the backing plate bolts are in backwards, with nuts against the axle flange, then the backing plate installed atop those nuts. This would pull the outboard pad towards the backing plate too far and drag against the rotor (pad cracked from over-heating), and also this would pull the pad toward the top of the rotor (off the edge, note the lip on the top of the pad). This would also cause the inner pad to dig in at the inner radii of the rotor, and possibly leave a lip at the top as well. I would suggest that the backing plates may need to be installed with the bolts going in through the backing plates first, then flush against the axle flange, then with nuts on the other side without excessive bolt protrusion pointing towards the wheel. I could be wrong, but I'm wondering if Jeff at CPP could confirm if that is indeed the right way to install the backing plates. It only took me a minute to find this, not sure if it was available in 2010. http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...kes-trucks.htm I'd be shocked if the kit didn't come with instructions. Even if it didn't, don't those bolts usually go in inboard towards outboard? Just a thought, seems CPP got skewered and I'm not sure that was necessary. |
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Actually, I think 68 c10 ls2 has the Backing Plates on backwards, (side for side).
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Interesting resurrection.
Mechanicalman, I used to live in glendale az.. miss the smooth roads out there |
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Yes, they are smooth when they aren't barricaded. They dig up the pipes every couple of years as well need it or not. Somebody is getting their pockets lined, for sure. City sales tax is 2.9%, total sales tax 9.2%. Less where you live? |
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Well I will be calling Jeff Monday. I just spent 10 solid hrs on them and I don't have brakes yet. I finally got the passenger side done but had to take it off 2 times before I got it right. I completely left the spacer bar off and it seems to fit good. The directions should state this!!!!
The drivers side is another story. I took it back off and removed the spacer bar and it didn't have enough clearance so after reinstalling it I figure it needs to be shaved in half and it should work. I HOPE ANYWAY! The hard lines don't fit the stock truck Tee connection. I had to go buy adapters from O Reillys for that.:chevy: |
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20 hrs total spent on this install. The kit sucks! I do have them installed but I wasn't happy at all with it. I had to buy parts from my local parts store and I was told this kit was for a Chevy truck 12 bolt. The instructions all state Chevelle and Camaro nothing about trucks. The hard lines didn't fit the Tee connection to small and the bracket they have didn't fit the S/S braided hose fitting to hold to the axle.
The spacers are not used on either side. I had to use 3 washers on the drivers side and nothing on the passenger side. I will get the spacer machined down to reinstall on the drivers side. The t-bolts are not grade 8 so I will swap them also. The calipers are a ***** to adjust. I followed their instructions to the tee and I have pretty good brakes but I don't think the kit is very well thought out are user friendly! I sent CPP a e mail telling them how much I disliked the kit and what all the problems where.:chevy: |
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Im wondering if you got the wrong kit ... If the instructions say chevelle and camaro ....which would be same , but different than a truck. If you have a part # I can look it up to make sure you got the right kit.
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6772RWBK-5 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1414431172 |
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I I looked at that part number and according to the catalogs that I have that is a truck part #. Doesn't look like I can offer much help. I was hoping maybe just a matter of the wrong kit. I looked at the list of parts and according to my catalog the calipers look to be the only difference which seems odd to me ...... I thought they were the same (Different size it says) . Says offset on rotors is the same and so on...... I'm not sure ......? Wish I could be more help.
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