Project TN 20
I've had a '64-'66 of various sorts for most of my driving life, from the '65 4x4 I bought at 16 to the latest...
I've read a lot of threads, and have the utmost respect for those that can do a full frame off and continue through to completion. That would be my preference, but due to not enough garage space, not enough patience, and 3 kids that will throw rocks at anything pretty, I'm going for a 20' driver. Don't get me wrong, no desire to half way do anything here, the intent is to do it all right, and one day she'll be there. Each project will be done with the goal of getting her back on the road and driving as soon as possible, to keep interest and not get into project hell. I've been there, I'm not going back to that place :devil: No show queen, but a truck I can drive every day and enjoy, and not worry about a paint chip or two. Also a project to keep the little ones busy, idle hands you know. So the story starts with chasing down a Craigslist add that simply stated "66 Chevy." Two pics, and no other information than "sounds good." After a lot of chasing, I found a truck that had sat in a barn for 7 years, but looked to fundamentally be a great starting place. Probably a late 80's or 90's resto, already has disc brakes, 5 lugs, etc. Oh yeah, and a lot of bondo. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3f9aa67b.jpg http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psbea1d649.jpg There she is basically as I picked her up. I thought the paint was way too oxidized to save, but to my surprise after hitting the hood with some Maguires paint cleaner, polish, and then wax she actually might make the 20' rule. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psd2a41d27.jpg Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: Project TN 20
Here is the project plan. It is in an odd format, but that is kind of how my brain works. Dark blue is completed, light blue in progress, everything else is just a dream. Stuff on the left is shorter term, stuff on the right is longer term, and it is kind of laid out in order I'll tackle it. I'm very open to thoughts for order, etc from those that have already been there.
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psc40d2a05.jpg |
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Also hold for more...
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:welcome2: aboard! Good looking truck. Sounds like a lot of the good stuff is already done. Your project plan looks good. You might want to tie together the bed wood with the gas tank move. A lot of rear tanks are filled through the bed so its good to do them at the same time.
What motor is in it? As you probably know, we love pictures so keep them coming. Good to see you have helpers! |
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Welcome. I'm in the Gallatin / Hendersonville area myself. Looks like a real nice truck.....
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http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9166d117.jpg 7040511 Quadrajet, 1970's Cali model http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psf85da0db.jpg 3970010 Block '69 to '79 350 (detailed number in front of heads was milled off by whoever built it before). http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2e0183b4.jpg 333882 Heads 70' - '80 http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psa881790e.jpg 14007380 Intake late '70's. So all in all, nothing special. I suppose nothing a few part swaps wouldn't fix, like the engine or something. I plan to get it running smoothly and worry about something sexy later. It did give me a chance to rebuild a quadrajet. The good news is it doesn't seem to leak, or at least not much, and doesn't seem to smoke. Posted via Mobile Device |
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:hi: and welcome aboard... Looks like you are off and running... Enjoy and get them little ones hooked early and hopefully you will avoid a majority of the idle hands stuff!!! :chevy::clap:
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Carb Rebuild
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psf3583674.jpg
Rebuilt the quadrajet. I had all the same issues everyone has, and relied on these two links to get through it: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/roch...el-190558.html http://vetteprojects.com/kstyer/quadrajet.htm I also realized (after rebuilding the carb) that it was not matched to my intake :banghead: This does not easily allow me to use a choke, since the divorced one won't work. That thread is here: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...07#post6129207 Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
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Sometimes the PO leaves you a nice gift, I had hoped to pull the pumpkin cover and find a POS. Instead, I found sludge :lol::
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps193f121e.jpg 41 on the ring and 11 on the pinion for a 3.73. Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
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Wow that is nasty looking! The overall truck looks very nice. I like your plan for bringing it along without getting over your head. I've been through project hell a few times and it's a great learning experience - of how not to do it in the future. Looking forward to the progress updates.
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Put that boy to work
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psb44d0385.jpg
Boy seemed to enjoy the greasy part, don't tell his mom. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9dc270b5.jpg No Leaks overnight. I used 220 grit to clean the surfaces, and a blue Felpro gasket. Put the oil in with a small hand pump (and the neighbors 12 year old). It ain't pretty, but it should be functional til the day it all gets stripped and painted. Posted via Mobile Device |
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DNR = 0 Days left to get rolling (DLGR) = 60 Posted via Mobile Device |
License Plate
I had heard but could not find official confirmation on the net that if you have a plate that matches the year and state of your vehicle you can us it as your official plate. So I found a cool one on Ebay, and went in to the county clerk to try it out. Since it is a farm plate she had to make a call, but much to my happiness, here it is :metal::metal::metal:
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psa99025d2.jpg http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps82db9324.jpg Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
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I do like your truck and also the bumper.
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Nice score and sounds like you already have well laid plans for it. Its great that you can get the kids involved...they will never forget the experiences. Keep us posted on pics and progress.
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Choke
Fixed my choke issue. Since the carb and intake don't match, my only real solution was to go manual choke. Don't skeer me, so I did it. I fabbed a plate to cover the warming tunnel of the intake, and left a tab to attach the cable at the appropriate angle. I don't recommend aluminum as I used, as the tab wants to crack when bent, but it was all I had readily available. Pic of plate and cable before cutting:
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps34b871ad.jpg PO left me a hole in the dash, so I just used that for now. Good location, but I'll weld that up one day... http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps47babba3.jpg Two pedal pumps, pull the choke, and she fires right up. Starts better than my 2005 'Burb. Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
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This morning I got up early and wired in a 240V plug in the garage for the welder. Had power back on before the family had a clue...
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps67a8205e.jpg Boy number 1 went with me to pick up the welder http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps89a0c0c3.jpg Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
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Nice!
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My 6 year old went on a part buying trip, and on the way home said, "now this will be a childhood memory." Posted via Mobile Device |
Time to check the brakes
So this project started with "I'm only going to bleed the brakes." :lol::lol::lol:
Someone along the line upgraded to discs, and the pedal feel was really good, so I assumed a quick brake fluid flush and I would be good to go. Not so much. I managed to loosen and crack open the left rear bleeder, and out came.....nothing. So I called the minions in to pull the back wheel: http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psbef35ae5.jpg The brake line fitting going into the wheel cylinder was already stripped, and had almost no chance of coming out easy, so I just cut it, and pulled out the wheel cylinder, to find what one would expect, more sludge. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psfc55e1af.jpg If you have old fluid, this is what lurks inside for you. I started investigating backwards where the fluid would flow, and figured it was the rubber hose running to the rear end. Much to my surprise some PO left me two for the price of one! http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psa7d6e48c.jpg It looks like the rear end was at some time swapped to a 67-72, I suppose to get to 5 lugs. Like any good mechanic would, you can get the hoses to work by just screwing the 60-66 hose into the 67-72, no need to do any custom work or anything... I've always wanted to give tube bending a shot, so I thought this is my chance. The 60-66 brake hose terminates in front of axle and drops to roughly the midpoint of the passenger side. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...pse7e8d28f.jpg Then there is a long tube to the driver's side and a short one to the passenger side wheel cylinder. 67-72 terminates a little further back, and the hose drops to the center/right of the diff cover. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1a9109bd.jpg Since the 67-72 frame location is not available on my truck, I decided to route it to the cross member right behind the axle, and drop down to the 67-72 location. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psbbe63fb6.jpg Old vs new routing http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9d378cf3.jpg Hose hookup location http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psa83f72af.jpg And a '72 hose running to the '72 location http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psbe46b190.jpg Re-run of the drivers side line I started cutting the old hose to find out where I was not getting flow, and found it plugged with either swelling or a chunk of rust http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps26d2939c.jpg This shot of the master cylinder with the rear flushed and the front not shows the reason to do it, look at the murkiness of the front fluid... http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps664d2e30.jpg In the rear you can now see all the way down to the port. Luckily the front flushed good, and now I can move on to my last few projects before driving season... Days Not Running = 0 Days Left to Get Running = 38 Posted via Mobile Device |
Time for more parts
Found a local forum member that had a frame for sale...as a bonus it came with some cab bits, some of which I can use (pull the dash for shaping then just swap it into mine, etc). Again, part of my keep it running while I can do projects. I'll do the frame all up then I can just swap my body over...
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4505d472.jpg Pretty pleased with how well she towed her home. Could have done it with something newer, but it wouldn't be near as cool. To get the U-haul website to accept the tow dolly I wanted, I had to pick a lightweight front wheel drive car. A '64 frame and cab was not an option...When the U-haul guy asked what I was really doing his only comment was, "dude, you could have picked something cooler to put in the website..." http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psb913323b.jpg Then me and the boy stopped for a milk shake... http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psad5dbe0d.jpg Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
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Nice score! Millshakes...Mmmmmm!
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Nice looking truck. I had a yellow/white 65 which I should have kept. What is the 20' rule?
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20' rule is that it looks good from 20'. The closer you get the worse it gets. I would love to have a full frame off restore with perfect paint like a lot of the guys on the board, but my kids are just too small. Tricycles running into things, small objects getting launched about and what not. Posted via Mobile Device |
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Never go half way
I knew better. When I rebuilt my brakes in the back, I put a new wheel cylinder on the driver's side, new tube on driver's side, new hose, new line half way up the frame. I didn't replace the wheel cylinder on the passenger side because I got it to bleed and "saved some time.":lol::lol::lol:
Never leave a weak link on an old brake system. After a night of taking boy to baseball practice and some ice cream, the next morning I found a new puddle on the floor.... What is that... It's not gas, oil, trans fluid, rear gear oil... It's... http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psd338d406.jpg Brake fluid. So I pulled the wheel cylinder, took a torch and got the bleader and old line loose, honed it, and rebuilt it. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psd8731db9.jpg While I was at it I bent and replaced the passenger brake line. For those that wonder what it looks like to drive with a leaky wheel cylinder, here you go: http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6b9aa380.jpg Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
Time for some floors
One of the issues I want to address before winter is fixing the big holes in the floor pan. The truck had reasonable carpet, and I wouldn't have found them except for the brown recluse sighting when I first brought her home. 7 years in a barn brings unwanted guests. :eek:
Mostly bad toward the hump: http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps16b405e1.jpg The normal rust spot by the rockers has been repaired in the past with some plates of steel and silly putty. It's good enough I can put a floor pan in, go almost to the rocker, and next summer pull the normal parts and replace them. I hope to have more than normal stability when I do this by not having to do it all at once. I know it duplicates work....but I don't have much of a shop, and driving season is fast on us... Past the point of no return: http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4351d3d4.jpg That was the initial first cut, then I'll get closer. I'm hoping all those videos I watched on youtube have me ready for this :metal: Like some of the other floor pans out there, the bolt hole for the cab support was off by 3/4" diagonal. Odd. I think my front cross member looks original, so who knows. A little fingernail polish on the end of the pointy bolt up from the bottom, and a nice mark for how far off it is: http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psa2144bed.jpg Looks better on my wife on a Friday night... A little geometry and a plasma cutter http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psb25d984f.jpg Flip it on the axis and bingo :metal: http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f302640.jpg Mostly cut in and ready for a fabbed piece under the pedal http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps404c07c8.jpg I hope I can weld. Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
Glad that's done...
OK so this metal repair thing is a bit addictive, even though I'm not so good at it. Disclaimer before sharing, my welding stinks. My welds are fat and ugly. But my grinder worked, so I suppose I'll get better...
From this: http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psc11117e0.jpg To this: http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6c7ed7e2.jpg I smoothed the welds on the seat side, but not on the firewall side. That will have to come later. Had to fab up an under gas pedal piece, didn't seem so simple since it had multiple compound angles. I used some cardboard to figure the shape, then bent and welded it. It actually turned out okay. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps33b7f355.jpg http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3dc32c82.jpg http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps60425b5e.jpg So I'm back rolling, just in time for driving season...Passenger's side isn't quite as bad, and will have to wait for next summer. DNR=0 Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: Project TN 20
Complex pieces keep it interesting.
Well done. Posted via Mobile Device |
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Gotta have tunes...
I thought I could get by for a year or so listening to the sound of the engine until I could do a proper stereo. Plans are for a Kenwood touchscreen in a custom modified dash, amp, subwoofers, custom kick panels. But no, I can't wait. :5150:
So I rummaged through the closet and pulled out a vintage 90's CD player, and some 6x9's in a box. Working in an electronics factory I'm a bit particular about my wiring. I like to put in a disconnect, solder all wires, and heat shrink. Also I tend to put strain reliefs in so the wires don't fatigue at the solder joint (ask me how I learned that). http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psa4c8ca22.jpg Kenwood stereo connector and vehicle side connector. This allows changing stereos without cutting and soldering inside the vehicle, quite a pain. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...pse4376eae.jpg Connected to vehicle side connector, ground wire to right, speaker wires snaked under carpet to left, old school. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6d4c9c2d.jpg Dash was already hacked for some krappy kraco I threw away day 1, so no foul putting this guy in. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psd34c8ae6.jpg That is so redneck, but my doors are not cut, and I'm not ready to build kick panels yet. 2 hours and I have tunes. A bit redneck, but worth it. :me: Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
Paint Job
I take this to mean the family is not quite ready for a slick paint job...
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...psba278b3a.jpg Posted via Mobile Device |
Time to fix...
Ah dang. I guess it's time to fix the other windshield wiper...
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps16814c12.jpg |
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LOL! Be careful! When I bought NEW windshield wipers for my truck the wiper motor quit working! HAHAHAHA!! Nice truck! :chevy:
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Cool truck. Funny about the windshield wipers. Years ago I was headed up to Wytheville VA for a dirt race. Was dark as crap and raining to beat the band. We got into the mountains and the windshield wiper on the passenger side took a dump and left. Used an old sock and some tape to keep it from scratching up the windshield. Crazy times. That was jus the beginning.
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Tighten up the steering
Steering has been sloppy with about 30 degrees of slop since I've had her. So I set out to right that a few weeks ago. When one of the wee ones was jerking about on the steering wheel I notice the pitman arm was shot. I assumed that would fix it. Not so much. So I decided to work on tightening down on the steering box, no luck. Then I checked the rag joint. The nut wasn't tightened down and it was just slipping til it caught.
:jdp: Could have easily ended up wrapped around a tree... http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps78f9f992.jpg I decided to also replace the steering box, as it was leaking. It took a lot of searching, but the replacement part I found was at O'Reilly's, part # 27-7501. Now she is nice and tight. |
And Time for Heat
A bit past chilly these days in Tennessee, and don't want DHS called with me taking the little ones to school with no heat...Heat exchanger was leaking, and motor blown. Hoses were not even attached. So time for a rebuild.
I did the vinegar soak in a big Walmart tub, took 5 days and nicely ate the rust off the heater box. Don't put the middle piece in, or not in for long...don't ask me how I know, but it's not all steel and vinegar will eat more than the rust away. So I had to contact Tony at 4-5-6 trucks and he shipped me a replacement for $45, and in a rush so I had it for Thanksgiving weekend to rebuild. Here are the parts soaked, cleaned, primed, and painted: http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8bfb08b9.jpg Used some gasket material I bought at Autozone for the gaskets: http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps09ed90e7.jpg http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps58d1bf44.jpg Oldest boy helped me put it together. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...pscf6d54d1.jpg Replacement motor and fan from LMC. |
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