Trouble codes
Just got my tuned computer from Speartech. I plugged it in and turned the key on, but didn't try to start it. I hooked up the scanner and it said the computer is a 2012, my engine and tranny are a 2013. Also, 4 hard codes popped up:
P0122 P0223 P0315 P2122 Will the year difference be a problem? Should I worry about trying starting it with those codes? |
Re: Trouble codes
Wow....just wow....this is the third Pedal response failure thread. I need to start running a national B!tchslap your Tuner campaign.
The first two codes are Pedal Failure/Tb Failure or low circuit voltage. Basically, the tb and pedal aren't communicating with the ecm (since the TAC functions became integral to the ecm). Third one is that it isn't reading the crank sensor or its out of phase. This one should get solved by a CASE learn, or in some cases just a few starts until it can phase the crank and cam sensors (did you pull the vvt off or no?) Fourth one is reduced engine power. This is a tricky bastardo but usually is a symptom not a cause. It usually pops up when there is a random low idle (i.e. stalls itself out), or when there is a random electrical failure or spike. If you clear the codes and try to start, no harm will be done. It MIGHT not want to start with the crank sensor problem tho. The other problems are ancillary, and the engine should be able to idle without input from the pedal. Considering that you got ALL the codes for the dbw system at the same time AND a crank sensor fail....I would say the mismatch in the ecm is causing some confusion. It would be strange for them to all fail at once barring getting struck by lightening. |
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http://www.ls2.com/boggs/dtcs/DTC%20P2122.htm
I was gonna copy the whole thing but the links don't work when I steal it. This is the "book" procedure on 2122, but I'm pretty sure the other DTC's are on the site as well. I don't know if it will actually help, as the above info takes into account a factory flash on a stock GM vehicle... |
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The TB activates fully when the pedal is depressed. The computer was tested on another vehicle before being sent to me. I sent John an email and am waiting on a response.
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Reverify pin out on the pedal to the ECM, to the throttle. I was getting similar codes initially, had to repin my pedal, MAF and map sensors. The wiring harness was wired backwards. Wasn't too hard, just had to switch a couple of pins around.
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You know, I didn't check that at all. I just rechecked the pins and they were wrong. Didn't you use the pedal off of a c5 corvette? Maybe the voltage sweep is different for some reason? I'm completely guessing here, just brainstorming. I think one brush goes in ascending voltage and the other in descending, or something like that. Make sure your pedal operates the same as the camaro one does.
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Rob,
Take my word for it. Take it to a dyno to get tuned. You will be better off in the long run. |
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What kind of reader are you using to clear the codes? I have two, one that I bought from Advanced(little orange one), and one that my wife bought me from amazon(a cheapy). Oddly enough the cheapy that she bought will clear all codes no matter what they are and the orange one will not clear them. But more than likely you are getting the throttle code because at some point connectivity has been lost between your throttle and the pcm at some point.
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The last two codes should clear on start , unless thrre actually was a crank sensor problem.
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I fired it up this evening and it would run for a little while and then die. After I would let it sit for a little while, it would the same thing. What fuel pressure should I have? No check engine light, but the same 4 codes still remain....:(...it did sound sweet while it was running :metal:!
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58psi.
Did you actually clear the codes, or just read them? Clear them, try again, if its the same four that means its getting the same triggers each time. You might need the CASE relearn to get rid of the crank sensor code. As for the others, we still got an electrical gremlin or tune gremlin. |
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Instagram.com/p/fypJDAQaP9/# |
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Rob,
Interesting question about the permanent thing. Before I went to the dyno I kept getting a reoccurring p0300 misfire code. I would clear it, unplug battery overnight, anything I could think of. It would appear clear, but would show up the minute I turned the key, even without truck started. I tore everything apart looking for it. When I went to the dyno he said the code wasn't present, even though my handheld (innova 3130c) showed it present, and permanent. In the manual it doesn't explain the permanent thing either. I'm curious also. Since the tune I haven't had it occur again. Just the other issue. Oh, and if it's not too much trouble, would you post your video? I would love to see it but am not as socially advanced as you. I don't have an Instagram or Facebook acct. that is just more stuff to distract me!! Shawn |
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I had the issue of not knowing what was going on and was using my Aeroforce scanner gauge and a cheap handheld scan tool.While this lets you see some things and clear codes you can't change much, allows for e-fan control and something else.
So...I bought HPTuners...the same program my tuner uses. This allows me to use the scan feature and send it to him, and he sends me back a modified file to install. Makes tunes fairly painless and is teaching me about controlling it myself...for future projects. I can highly recommend this....regardless of what program is involved...LS1Edit, HPTuners, EFILive, etc. HPTuners wasn't too expensive either (my tuner also sells them and gave me a discount)...around $500? Now GM tech II is a different thing altogether. :lol: |
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I wish I had the money for hptuners. The bigger obstacle for me is the time needed for the learning curve. I probably would have gone that route if it wasn't my daily driver.
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If you guys want HPT I'll still see if I can get them for less than $500. TEchnically you could pirate the software, but without the interface box its pretty much just a toy.
You guys looking for unlimited license or the regular individual license? Shawn, the learning curve is there but the HPT forums are very helpful. You can get up and around within an afternoon. I still have someone do my dyno tuning for me, but have found that even just learning the software side is useful. If your tuner is cool he won't lock the tune so you can access it. |
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http://www.nelsonperformance.com/index.html |
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misfires...possibly due to the lean bank. I'd look for a spark plug/wire/coil issue on that side.
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Also check your grounds, and random ground not being attached will do some crazy things.
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Also, I'm not trying to scare you, but my Camaro randomly through that P0300 code a while back. I couldn't figure out what was going on, and eventually I pulled my valve covers to find I had a few broken valve springs.
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John said the problem might be the 80lb injectors. ...he also said my tune was unlocked. Does that mean I don't need credits from HP TUNERS to update the tune?
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Unlocked means that others can look at and adjust your tune. Some tuners lock it so no one can see what they have done. Also the credits bought are registered and only good for the person using hptuners to do the tune. If you want to tune it you would still need to buy/use the credits so it can be registered to you. At least that is my understanding. Different people all have to pay independently.
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There is a cost for the credits to unlock the pcm from the factory, essentially making it open (not read only). That cost is for the individual to pay a tuner.
Then there is the cost of the software itself. That is usually a cost the tuner pays as an investment in a tool, and charges his fees' to each individual to recoup costs and make a profit. This is a not a set amount. There are two main versions of the software from what I can remember., 1. full software and box for around $550, comes with credits for a few vehicles (i think 5, keeping in mind some different vehicles would use a non-standard amount of credits). 2. Is around $750 and is the "shop" version, which includes a ton more/unlimited credits. This one costs more up front but pays for itself by waiving the need for recurring fee's for credits. IF you plan to do other peoples tunes, this will pay for itself around the 5th tune. |
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpt-6021/overview/ Also, will I be able to "tune" the TCM? Thoughts on the other codes and symptoms I've posted? Thanks, Rob |
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Still getting These Codes?
P0122 P0223 P0315 P2122 And now these... (2) P0300 Multiple misfires, Don't understand 2 of them though. P0174 Lean Bank 1 More info on your engine & mods? John isn't willing to help you? |
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Here are the cam specs:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-54-45311 UPC: 036584213741 Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-6,700 Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 219 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 235 Duration at 050 inch Lift: 219 int./235 exh. Advertised Intake Duration: 269 Advertised Exhaust Duration: 285 Advertised Duration: 269 int./285 exh. Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.607 in. Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.621 in. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.607 int./0.621 exh. Lobe Separation (degrees): 113 Camshaft Gear Attachment: 3-bolt Computer-Controlled Compatible: No Grind Number: 269LRR HR13 __________________ |
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More than likely your misfire is due to the custom grind cam. When speartech built my harness and initial tune they did a horrible job of giving me a start tune. I told him all the specs of my motor(you can see in my sig). And he sent me a tune for an ls1. That could be what's happening to you. John Weeks got it worked out for me though.
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Oh and to answer your question. The springs I broke were from Texas speed I bought them new and had them installed with my cam at Texas speed. They were less than a year old and had around 11,000 miles on them.
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