4x4 LS cross member
Ok I asked this in the 4x4 section with no response. Can anyone shed some light on which cross member to use.
This is the original thread with the links. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=661468 |
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I remember a thread of someone using the PF member and had to barely trim it for clearance. Not sure about the DD.
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Anyone else have a history with one of the LS cross member mounts in a 4X4? |
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I used the dirty dingo setup. I used it because i was in a hurry, and didn't feel like fabbing anything up.
http://imageshack.com/a/img716/2994/x1rv.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img843/9224/oexs.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img689/4122/iqyf.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img823/7886/erzk.jpg |
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Wasted, did you have to move the engine forward at all to clear the cab? I am basically doing the same thing you did to your 69lwb.
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I initially positioned it to clear the factory AC compressor...so it's really far forward in the frame. There is a TON of room between the engine and firewall. It's actually kind of nice for working on stuff back there.
http://imageshack.com/a/img829/1424/guqg.jpg |
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I read that the PF won't work with a stock height truck. The mount hits the oil pan. It will fit but it leaves no room for suspension travel. True???
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Gmc, from all I have read either mount will NOT work well with a stock height truck. I think minimum 2" lift is needed. |
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I still don't understand why the motor sits so low in a 4x4 Compared to a 2wd. Or at least that is what most have said in there builds.
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I was thinking it doesn't sit lower, but that the pumpkin on the axle would hit the pan? Could be wrong though. Would an f body pan help anything, you think?
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I've read the pan seems to be ok. Fbody pan would give me peace of mind but it's the cross member that actually hits on the diff. Everything I read says to install a 2" lift.
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I did have to do some grinding on the DD mount to clear the truck oil pan. Kind of annoying grinding on laser cut parts...
Between being able to slide the DD slider mounts, and sliding the crossmember where I needed to in the frame, I put the engine exactly where I wanted it, then drilled new holes in the frame. |
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thanks for the info and ideas guys Scott |
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FYI, this is some information sent to me from cmabolt "Thanks Chris"
Originally Posted by cmabolt Hello, I just wanted to write you regarding your interest in the LS crossmembers. I didn't want to highjack Dwilber's Build thread. I used the pacific fab crossmember only because Dirty Dingo didn't have theirs on the market yet for 4x4's. Pacific Fab's crossmember is an extremely well built piece. Very strong. I put it in place and aligned it where the original motor mounts were. I then dropped the cab and found that the rear passengers side valve cover was hitting the firewall. I did some research and found that others had moved the motor forward to make some space between firewall and motor. I moved my crossmember forward 2" which gave me nice clearance in front of the firewall and plenty of room up front for an electric fan. The dirty dingo crossmember looks to be well engineered as well. I think it's cheaper too. If I we're to do it again, I would probably go with the dirty dingo crossmember. One benefit is that you can actually drop the center section of the crossmember to remove the oil pan. This is not available on the pacific fab crossmember. In conclusion, they are very similar in design, but I am sure dirty dingo has the advantage as they probably engineered theirs to take advantage of the shortcomings of the pacific fab unit. That's what I would do. If you plan to do headers or use a manual trans with hydraulic setup see my build thread or 69Crash. We both used pacific fabs crossmember. 69crash used an automatic and I used a manual trans. I used headers and he used manifolds. A ton of info on both builds. Good luck, I hope this helps you make a decision. Chris |
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OK so price before shipping for each
Pac Fab 419.00 Shipping $16.74 but are 50 minutes away from me. DD 455.00 Shipping $18 thoughts??? |
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What a joke. That **** started flaking off the sharp edges right away....I wish I'd just taken them to the same guy that did the frame...probably wouldn't have cost me any more, for a far superior job. |
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Wasted, I figured you were going to say that!!!
Gmc Check out my build thread in my signature. Yes I plan to lift it 4 inches. I talked to John at Pacific fabrication they are about 50 minutes from me. I may go talk to them and check out the crossmember before I buy anything. I am thinking about buying the pacific fabrication crossmember and cutting it or adding a removable center section under the oil pan. |
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Scott i would go with dirty dingos cross-member if you are not able to build your own it would be quite simple. Myself got the pacific fab because it was dang near 150 cheaper... Big mistake... Both me and chris (Reno build) experienced the motor mounts not lining up, he didn't have it as bad as i did i had to weld an extension to the top on both sides. Once i got it bolted in i noticed one mount was twisted. I would not want anyone to have something like this.
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I built my own. Mostly because the pacific fab one was the only thing available and i didn't like the price tag or the looks of it. It was actually pretty simple i just set the engine in the frame where i wanted it to go and built it from there. There is a couple more pictures on the first page of my build thread.
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Going to look at your build thread now but are you lifted?
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Hey jimmy any more pictures installed?
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Not the greatest pictures but here are a couple more.
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Jimmy they look good. I am not sure I could make them look that good with the tools and equipment I have access to. Was it 100% fabricated? How did you bend the tubing?
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WOW they look great!!! I have a $20 bill with your name on it if you can send me one???:haha:
ok so where can I find the pre-bent 90's??? because that is probably the hardest part to locate i would think as the rest of the metal you can get from the local metal/welding shop. Looks great Jimmy! |
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Jimmy that is something I may try. Even if I can't make it work I will be out little money and some time.
Has anyone tried this? It's not for an LS but was wondering if it would be close. Diy4x crossmember......not for LS |
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Looking at Jimmy's pictures his engine sits higher than mine with the Dirty Dingo mount. should make header selection easier.
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Will that help out with the A/C compressor in the stock location or hurt?
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Hmmmm. It is higher. I wonder how high? That would keep someone from putting a lift on to get the clearance. (Thinking out loud)
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Well I was talking to a guy yesterday who swears he knows of a 72 k20 LS swap that didn't have a crossmember done I'm trying to put my hands on it to see
One would assume if it does sit higher some how the bit could work but what are the downfalls? |
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I am not a mechanic so this may sound dumb
Raising the engine would require the transmission to be raised as well so is there enough clearance for that? And typically from what I have seen or recall its actually the block that's too wide for the existing crossmember oil pans aren't a hindrance. But replacemnt crossmembers then get in the way of the front punkin not the oil pan |
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