cross sills with a c notched rearend
Can someone post some pictures on how you did your cross sills for the bed with a c notch? when i got my truck the bed was off so im not sure how they fit anyway. thanks!
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Re: cross sills with a c notched rearend
is your C-notch higher than the top of the original frame?
If not, no work is required for the sills. If yes, you'll have to decide if if you want to raise the whole bed a little or raise the floor of the bed, leaving the steel part of the bed at stock height. On my truck, I had c-notches made from well casing or some large diameter tubing, left about 1.5" of frame above the notches. The top of the 3rd member hit the bottom of the bedwood and broke it out eventually without hitting the the c-notches. It was pretty low. Had I known I would have blocked the bed up 1/2' or so and put some kind of rubber bumpers to stop the axle up-travel. |
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Re: cross sills with a c notched rearend
it's kinda weird how the bed works. The cross sills don't connect to meet the besides at all. The angle strips at the bottom of the sides are bolted or welded to the sides and to the outside boards of the bed. The large bed bolts with the offset washers go through the wood, the sills and the frame. The bolts that hold the metal bedstrips to the wood also act to hold the the whole wood platform together. Seems like GM went to a lot of trouble to avoid devising some way to bolt the sills to the bedsides. Maybe they thought it would concentrate too much load in small spots leading to cracking of the metal. I don't know.
The outside boards sit directly on the ends of the sills, several of mine had pretty nasty cracks. |
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Pic of my C notch, not above stock frame and relationship of sills. Also a pic showing the addition of 1x2 tubing to front of bed and 2" of the top of a donor rear cross sill and the welding/position of angle strips to raise the floor 2". What I didn't get was the welding of 2x2 pieces of tubing to the frame in the spots where the sills sit to raise them the 2" for the bed wood. I also got rid of those ugly bolt/washer things by welding studs into the sills and bolting them to the welded in pieces of 2x2.
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I'm also doing the C4 rear end, and I notched the rails 2". I was looking at this frame, and may do something similar for the cross sills over the step notch.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=673809&page=5 |
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I did find a pic of the 2x2 pieces of tubing I welded to the frame. Point is, if you add the same amount above the rear bed sill and the bed front as you weld to the frame for the cross sills to sit on, you can use the stock sills. IMO, you don't need a complete crossmember for the sills to sit on. They are strong enough by themselves and it saves a fair amount of fabrication. You could use 2x3 or 2x4 tubing to increase the ht. My biggest saving was ordering Mar K bed sides with angle strips not attached so I could weld them in where they needed to be.
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Here's some examples of raising the whole floor.
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One more.
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Re: cross sills with a c notched rearend
Thanks everyone for the pictures!!
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Do you remember where you found this one? I'd like to see more of the frame and suspension. However, all those cross braces make it heavy! The factory only used four. |
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This what I did. Because my bed floor is raised I looked at the wooden square block that was used and added 3/4" which is the wood then cut some square tubing and made it the same size. Put the front sill on top of that and it made my bed floor the right height. The rack you see is my raised bed floor. Mine is different because I turned mine into a tilt bed floor.
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...image-1253.jpg http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/.../image-366.jpg http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/.../image-213.jpg http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...image-1574.jpg |
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Here's one.
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Re: cross sills with a c notched rearend
it would help if you posted a pic of your frame with c-notch
i have a c-notch without the raised bed and then you have some extreme notches above my truk rides at 5'' and has 2'' to the frame, this means i'd need to go 3'' more with my c-notch to set the sheet metal on the ground the pic chuckdriver posted would lay frame, our frame is 8'' above our sheet metal |
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Nice!
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I found a similar thread from the forum, and even though he's raising a steel floor it should be able to give you a pretty good idea as where to start.
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=443970 I really think that keeping the flat floor in the AD trucks by raising the floor to clear the tires and chassis takes projects to the next level. |
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