83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

The first thread is messed up so screw Photobucket. Here's the continuation of that build..

Ripped out the tired 305 and the TH350 transmission.


Swapped the stock column out with a column from a 90 Suburban. I much prefer the "stalk" compared to the foot control for high beams and the dash-mounted washer control.

I also have a body harness from the same 90 Suburban, so I am splicing the connections to make it all fit up right.

And this project is going to be completed! We took a direct hit from Hurricane Irma, and branches fell all around, but not on the old truck.

Making progress again!

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

I'm glad you and the truck made it through Irma ok. Did you see that there is a work around to the photobucket mess now?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=740958&page=6

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Glad you all made it thru and are moving forward. Truck looks good and will be cool when you get it going again.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Well, I ended up hacking apart the extra body harness I purchased. I decided to snip out the connectors for the ECM and column, and create new harnesses.

Below, is the new column installed. Overall that was quite simple, and I hope it all works.

I also created a ECM connector harness that goes from the ECM to the ALDL, as well as the SES light in the dash. I will splice it into the pigtail where the "Choke" light currently inputs (pin 16?).

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

A couple issues I have to tackle with the interior:
1. Windshield washer - the "new" harness has the provision for the remote washer. I'll either have to convert it to that, and splice the new line into the existing line, or I'll have to splice the existing style wire into the "new" control. Will wait and tackle this once I have battery power again.
2. Headlamp switch - the 84+ switch and bezel I planned to use is higher in the dash than the current switch. That means I'll have to cut the sheet metal dash to get the switch centered correctly. Not quite fond of that idea, but i'll do it.
3. The new column did not have a neutral safety switch. I just wired the purple and yellow wires together and taped them off. Any better ideas?

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Good progress thus far:

-The fuel tanks are removed. Repainted the rear part of the frame.

-Working on removing (grinding off) the welded on I-beams used with the redneck lift kit. She'll be back to stock height shortly.

-Transmission and Transfer case rebuilt and ready to install.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Is anyone following this build?

Here's where I'm at today. Got the old body lift I-beams (welded) bumper mounts to the frame and I cut them off. Looks like I should be good going back with stock bumper mounts.

And, what is this harness for coming out of the firewall? It has three wires.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

I'm still following. I haven't got in to my wiring on the truck yet, so I can't help with your questions. i did just download the schematics from Hatzie. They should help.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=545416

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Awesome, thanks. It looks like the EGR bleed valve from the schematics - will be removed.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

The frame is now ready for the new 350 engine. New fuel lines courtesy of Inline Tube, a new fuel valve selector, and I've got the re-wiring figured out (hopefully).

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Spent some time on the fuel delivery system. I have the wiring figured out (hopefully). It's now installed, and new fuel lines are ready to go as well.

The hardest part was removing the rivets from the old tank straps but the tank mounts are cleaned up and ready to be installed.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

And it's in - 350 Chevy engine, rebuilt 700-R4 with a shift kit, and a resealed and cleaned up transfer case.

Went in pretty smoothly overall, had a little fidgeting and a small notch out of the frame to make the 02 sensor fit in the frame rail.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

It will be running again soon. Most of the engine is in place, including the TBI and computer wiring. Just waiting on an incorrect order to be fixed from the fuel line vendor.

Also, here's a pic of the new gas tanks. Not too difficult to do.

She's Alive
 

She turns over and fires when dripping gas down the throttle body!


Now, have to fix the fuel line wiring, the fuel lines, and give it a whirl.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

It's been a few weeks of "one step forward, and one-half step back".

I've been struggling with the wiring for the fuel pumps for some time now, and finally decided to find factory style dash selector switch wiring and patch it in. Luckily, it's easy to see that GM was piecemealing the ECM components in these trucks, as the dual fuel tank harness is still separate from the under dash master harness.

Found an 87 truck in a JY, and got the dash switch, the wiring harness through the firewall, and the rear-body connector which powers the fuel pumps and the fuel gauge in this generation of trucks.

The harness went in easily, and I connected the tank pump power into the shank where I removed the original tank wiring harness, and viola, I now have fuel pump power and both tanks work as desired!

Still don't have the fuel gauge wired up but it's coming.

Tried to test the engine start today, not much luck though as soon as pressurized the fuel system, the fuel pressure regulator shot fuel everywhere. So, I rebuilt the TBI with all new seals, and it helped but still has a leak. I'd wager the fuel pressure regulator spring has been changed at some point, as it seems to be longer than I'd expect it to be.

And the power steering pump is leaking from the front shaft, so I'll replace that while I'm easily able to do so.

More parts ordered, and maybe I'll get a Christmas wish and get the old truck running.

One problem I'm struggling with is the dipstick tube for the 700R4. The one I got out of the GMT-400 (1990 C1500) interferes with the A/C evaporator housing in the square. Any thoughts?

And finally, here's a truck that is my inspiration - we saw it at the Daytona speedway swap meets a few weeks ago!

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Good persistence. Getting pretty close now. One thing that you may want to do is give us a quick recap of your build in the new thread with live pics. I remember your screen name so I know I've read it but I can't remember the particulars. Nice work on the fuel system. I have a feeling that woulda stumped me for awhile.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Build recap:

April 2017 - Gifted a 1983 K10 from a family member, paid $400 to have it shipped from North Carolina. All body panels seem to be original, the only modified thing I could find is the TH350 transmission instead of the 700R4. Engine is a 305 and runs good, but will be changed out.

Plans: Working restore - new paint, interior, and re-working of the drivetrain. Want it to look period correct, and I've always loved the 350 TBI engines, so let's build the truck with new paint, interior, and a TBI 350/700R4 as GM would have produced it in 1987. It will look exactly like a factory 1987 truck under the hood.

Project is divided into three phases.

Drivetrain:

Completed:
1. Removed original 305/TH350.
2. Procured a TBI 350 engine, wiring harness, 700R4.
3. Rebuild 700R4 and NP208 transfer case. Reinstalled.
4. 350 engine installed, computer wired up, new fuel tanks, pumps, lines, etc.

To Do:
5. Get engine running.
6. New factory-style exhaust.

Exterior

Completed:
1. Removed 3" body lift kit. This involved some cutting of the welded bumped mounts. Replaced all bushings with new LMC parts.
2. Purchased new core support. Existing one is rotted near the battery.
3. Frame sanded and repainted.
4. New brakes and brake lines at all four corners.

To Do:
5. Full repaint.
6. Replace damaged tailgate.


Interior

Completed:
1. Replaced steering column with a newer unit, with stalk wiper controls and high-beams. Tested out working good.
2. Removed most interior trim and repainted with SEM original colors.

To Do:
3. Replace carpet, headliner, seat cover, and dash pad.

That pretty much sums it up.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Here's on issue I'm contemplating - I bought a new core support to do the 89-91 front end conversion, but after seeing the red truck above I've decided to stay stock. BUT, the original core has a good amount of rot on the lower corner, I could cut the replacement bottom off and weld it to the original. I'm concerned about the ultimate strength of the core though.

Thoughts?

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Good info, thanks. Is the truck in the trees pretty much it looked like to start with?

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Is it not possible to return the core support and get the right one? Welding a piece on the original should be ok as long as the rest of it is strong enough. It would certainly be easier to just use a new part if possible.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

I could get a new core support but I really want to avoid offshore metal on this truck if I can. The new core is thin and flimsy compared to the original one.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Well darn, another half-step back.

Got a new TBI unit on there, and it held pressure. Couldn't get it to start, the injectors weren't firing. I was thrown for a loop because it has strong spark, but I've determined the computer does not have power. Tested for 12V at A6, and nothing. That also explains why the "SES" light doesn't work.

Trying to figure out how to get power to the ECM now.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Nice truck! Your build is a lot like mine. I used an 83’ cab, 87’ 4x4 frame / drive train and complete TBI wire harness etc from an 89’ Suburban. I would tell you to check out my build thread, but it was ruined by Photobucket.

For what it’s worth, I had a similar problem with the injectors not working when I was first trying to fire it up. It turned out I didn’t have the wire hooked up that runs from the positive battery cable to the alternator. It would turn over and fire if I poured fuel down the injectors, but the injectors would not spray fuel until I figured out that wire was unhooked. So you may want to add that to your list of things to check if you haven’t got her running yet.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Greenlee - Thanks for that thought. I just put a new battery cable on it this week, that has the provision for the alternator wire like you said. Will check that out.

Here's my current work effort - mapping of the bulkhead connector. My ECM doesn't have any power. I've never used a Digital multi-meter before, so it's been a learning experience.

I figured out tonight that B1 - the orange wire on the bulkhead, row 1 at bottom, doesn't have any power, so the computer doesn't have power. Will check that one out this weekend.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

That looks like a math test! Good luck getting her running. :metal:

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Greenlee, did you make any modifications to the fuse box in the 83 to get it to work with the TBI engine harness?

Sure does look like matrix algebra.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

I had an 89’ Suburban for parts. I took the entire wiring harness out of the Suburban, including the fuse box, and used it in the truck. It was tedious, but pretty much plug and play. The only wiring I used from the truck was the harness for the power windows and locks. I also saved the harness for dual tanks, but have never used it since I’m only running one tank.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Thanks - I have the interior harness/fuse box as well, and considered doing the same. I'm trying to sister the two together though, to limited success thus far.

Today I had to run another wire but now my computer has power. Once I get the timing set correctly it should run.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Wish I could say it was running.

I've had no luck getting to that point. I have fuel. I have spark. What I don't have is correct timing.

It will hit on multiple cylinders when cranking. I've set the TDC at 0, and confirmed it correct by watching the valves and doing a compression test.

I've checked the firing order when TDC is at 0, at 1 is the first cylinder on the distributor. The timing light immediately strobes when cranking and continues pulsing.

I have power at the computer. The fuel injectors fire during cranking.

But it won't start. I'm at a loss.

Here's a picture to keep me motivated, dreaming of the day the 350 TBI fires right up like I remember hearing in my grandfathers' garage.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

I have been there.... wait, I am there now with a 98 engine in a Tahoe. The little bit of research I have done leads me to fuel pressure. Have you verified that you have adequate pressure to the TB? I will be putting the same engine in the Jeep soon too so all this trouble shooting will help me out there.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Good question, I'm not sure of the exact pressure but it does have a very nice cone of fuel while cranking. I'll try the starting fluid trick to see if that works.

When I restabbed the distributor in my 350 Vortec, I remember there was a mark in the housing that set to TDC rotor. This TBI engine doesn't have a distributor mark, so it's more like "get close and hope". I also have a backup distributor, ignition module, and coil and will try replacing those piecemeal to see if I have a bad one. The spark does look healthy, however.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Got to an "almost start" which is good enough for now (more below).

The timing is on, and correct. The metered fuel out of the TBI was the problem. I had run the tank nearly dry, and it wasn't putting enough fuel down the throat. Switched to the other tank, and it immediately hit, but appeared now to be flooding with too much fuel, as I was cranking without coolant. Got a nice fire in the exhaust manifold, so I've stopped there until I can get the core support/radiator/exhaust installed and should fire up then.

Spent part of yesterday removing excessive wiring. Got the old EGR bleed wiring removed. I had to cut the 4WD indicator light, so will figure out how to wire that up next.



Also working on the pulse wipers, they don't work, and the washer doesn't work either.

Progress
 

I've not been happy with the direction this build is going. The goal is to have a 1983 K10 that roughly has 1987 innards, 350 TBI, and looks period correct, showroom ready.

Well, I took some shortcuts to "save time" that lead me down the wrong path, For instance, I bought a full engine and interior harness from a 1988 Suburban. I hacked both of them up, trying to make them work with my 1983 interior harness, to limited success. Mainly because I dreaded getting further into this wiring project.

Last weekend I decided I had enough, and was going to fix all the hacks I've done, and implement the full 1988 harnesses on my truck.

Below is my fixing up the fuse box and instrument panel harness. It had a couple wire breaks, and some self-inflicted damage, so I repaired it back to new. I used my modern Chevy truck as a workbench.

I then installed this harness under the dash. It was much easier than I expected, and pretty simple to follow. Having full factory service manuals helps as well.

For the first time, my SERVICE ENGINE SOON light works, the fuel pump relay controls the fuel pumps (three seconds and off), and everything I've tested so far works except the interior courtesy lights.

I also fixed all the hacks from my engine harness and now it's ready to fire up and move onto the next phase - the body work.

She's Alive
 

Got her running today. Something was off, as I suspected.....

....The harmonic balancer has shifted, leaving the timing marks incorrect. It just didn't make sense that it wouldn't run, so finally I stabbed the distributor checking TDC at #1, having used my compression tester and watching the valve action. It started right up.

But now there is another problem. I rewired the entire truck so the fuel pump is controlled by the relay, which means 3 second prime, the oil pressure switch closes to turn on the pump. The switch doesn't close, so it runs and then dies.

Also, my dash gauge shows 0 oil pressure, and the gauge looks OK. I could replace both switches, but the chance of them both being wrong seems low.

Starting to think the engine is just a dud and considering options at this point.

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

I'm not looking forward to dealing with wiring on my Dad's build. Great job!!!

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Don't sweat it, the wiring was the easiest part. It's all logical and mostly simple to figure out what goes where.

It's running....
 

After a frustrating February and busy March, I decided to give the old truck another go. It would start, then die immediately. I figured it was fuel starvation, but when I jumped the fuel relay it did the same thing.

The wife picked up a harmonic balancer for me, so I figured I'd at least try to get it timed correctly yesterday.

The balancer went on OK, I put a new driver side manifold with the O2 sensor bung, wired that up, and then went to start it. Nothing. No spark.

Threw a spare distributor on, no change.

Finally set the timing to TDC 0, stabbed the distributor correctly, with a new cap and rotor. She fired right up!

I even drove out of the driveway today for the first time since July.

She starts right up and idles well. Chasing down a few random noises but it's idling smooth, the computer is now controlling the timing, and the idle is right at 1000 cold and 650 warm.

I'm happy as a pig in slop right now!

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Great news man! I got a little worried that you had about had it with this rig. I think the vision for it is awesome. The drivability and fuel efficiency of the fuel injection will be really nice to have in the earlier body. Keep on it!

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

Glad to hear you got her running! That’s a great feeling. :metal:

Re: 83 K10 Survivor, Part 2
 

I was never going to give up, but I had definitely grown frustrated. Amazing how it all came together so quickly.

I've purchased two different Chinese (POS) core supports to replace the factory one, which has some rotted areas under the battery tray. However, I was not pleased with either one, and decided to fix the original as best I could. So I drug it out from behind the shed and got to work. Here's what I started with.