4L60e overhaul
 

Well, the fun has commenced.
We have a 1994 Suburban. My dad bought it new in 1994 and put about 170k miles on it. We took it as our family truckster at that point around 2000 or so. The original trans got to slipping around 225k miles, so I obtained a used trans from the wrecking yard along with the torque converter. This came out of a wrecked 94 pickup with about 105k miles. It had nice looking fluid and this unit went in and went another 50k miles. This trans quit shifting and only has first, and rev so it was parked.

The truck also exhibited a nasty pull toward the pass side during braking. This is being taken care of with a new(actually a free warranty replacement) caliper and a pair of brake hoses. I went ahead and got a set of ball joints too as the set in there has about 100k miles on em. I'm hoping it can go another 100k. Time will tell.

So, the trans was already out of the truck. This one is the original one so it has about 225k on it.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

A few more pix.
I made a piece of wood with a hole in it for the case to sit on while I goof with it.

I ordered up this compressor tool. Not sure what I got but it is not the correct one for the 4l60e.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

A few of the things I purchased.
The shortness of the compressor. I ended up using a bolt and some nuts and some metal I had to do the compressing.
Once out the ring fit down though the middle of the spring cage. so I guess it is on that trans part pretty tight.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

I got the low rev piston out but not without a fight. I ended up having to order up a new pliers. The one I had used has a snoot that is too big to fit. I got these wilde brand pliers and they are NICE! Took longer to rig up the compressor than to get the snap ring off and back on.

I knocked the rear bushing out and matched it up with one out of the bag of bushings I bought. Then set up the press and some socket extensions and a socket to press the new on in. I used the old one to recess the new one a bit down in the bore like the old one was.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

Any questions or suggestions are welcome. Any pix you want to see I'll try to get and post em up. Let me know.

As above I'm using some exedy clutches. I haven't measured them but I think the 3-4 clutches are .080 and I ordered up some .106 steels. Planning on this to get the 3-4 setup tight and will use a thinner steel or some thing to get a tight clearance on this pack. I also got the new apply and back plates. These are suppose to be the upgraded stock stuff to prevent coning of the clutch pack by the raised internal pressures. Have a sonnax .500 boost valve and spring to get those pressures up. Also have a carbon band and a corvette servo. Im hoping it will turn out well. Time will tell.

Not sure what I'm going to do for the torque converter. Probably take it out to my friends in Weatherford, Tx, Phoenix Transmission. I'm running their converter in my 2004r we overhauled a few yrs ago and really like it.

I took a 2x6 and drilled a 1 1/8" hole and clamped it to the edge of my bench to hold the input shaft and drum.

I went ahead and put the new seals on the low rev piston and slathered on some asemblee goo. Dropped it in and tapped it home with a hammer handle. Then put the spring and ring back on. Then tested it with some compressed air to make sure it worked and it does.

And I got a real lip wizard. On the last overhaul I just made my own out of plastic soda bottles. I'm stepping up.

Will post more when we do more. Maybe Saturday.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

You don’t need the lip wizard on bonded pistons. Always install bonded pistons even on 700r4s. Toss the lip wizard away. Lip wizard will tear the lip seal in the tight fitting reverse input drum if you don’t know what you are doing.
Show us your tool for installing the Teflon seals on the input shaft and the pump stator that fits into the reverse input drum.
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Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

Yeah, I just never had a lip wizard before. I used a feeler gauge and some plastic circles I cut out of a plastic two liter bottle to do the seals on the 2004r I overhauled a couple yrs ago. As far as the rings go, I just put them on and clamped some more of that plastic off the two liter bottle with hose clamp(s) to size em. I have since learned I can use a funnel to "stretch" the rings. I tried to put up some pix but I guess my phone isn't up with that so it will have to wait until later.

I do have a three piece set of the bonded pistons and the caged springs deemed necessary.

I measured up the clearance on the rear planet and it appears the larger one is about .022 so I need to find out what is the recommended clearance range. Might have to get another one. No discernable wiggle and they seem to spin well.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

May want to check your case bushing, it appears from the pic its not all the way into the case to where it needs to be. Always check your bushings, no one likes a tight bushing. Its like putting in cam bearings in your motor.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

I put it where the other one came out. How far in do you usually set it? I could probably drive the old one in too but not sure how the shaft would like that.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

I guess you are looking at the bottom pic? That is the out side looking into the case from the tail side. I pressed the bushing in with that socket and extension setup then put the old bushing on top of the new on and pressed the new one in to where the old one was. Maybe the old one had moved. I will look at the output shaft and see about the witness marks.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

Just check the bushing with the torrington bearing to make sure they do not come into contact with each other, along with putting the rear ring gear into the bushing to make sure its not to tight....most likely you should be good.

Did you air check the low and reverse piston with the center support/rear planet/ring gear/clutches and steels installed ?

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

I checked the piston but haven't stacked any clutches and steels in there yet. I'll check it again when I get that lower section together.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

the reason I asked about air checking the rear piston is because you stated you air checked it. If you air check it without the steels and clutches/center support in the case, this will allow the piston to move to far up in the case and rip the three seals on the piston.

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I'll pull it apart and check those rubber rings. Cant be putting in a trans with no reverse.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

Alrighty then... we pulled the rev piston out to check the seals. They looked fine so it got a regrease with the assemblee goo and put it back in. Fought off the urge to test it again until we "stacked" the clutches in. Watched this guy to make sure of the order with the waved steel. While I was in watching the transmission bench we soaked the clutches in trans fluid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=pg5FIrvmexs
Also in there was the advice to install the rear bushing 1/16" in the case and we had so that is all good. Stacked in the wave, steel, clutch, steel, etc until we had them all in.

Pulled the one way clutch apart and installed the new one I bought. It was a tight fit but it is back together and in there too. Put the anti-clunk spring in and then the sprag setup, then the snap ring to keep it all in the case. The made sure we had clearance in the clutch stack and finally the air test. Worked out well I think.

Then it started sprinkling so I had to clean up the activity for tonight. More when I do more.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

Now would be a great time to install the sonnax "wide bushing" in the sun gear.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

I would suggest to install a transgo shift kit for your 4L60E, I see you purchased the boost valve but thats not all this transmission needs to last.
Couple of other things to check before going any further with your build.
Check the 3rd accumulator check ball to ensure its free and do a leak test on it. This is located in the 2/4 servo area.
Upgrade your reverse input drum piston - instructions are in the transgo shift kit. Drill out the two holes in the piston and install the two orifices provided in the shift kit.
When checking your 2/4 band clearance do not install the blue o-ring when checking clearance on the 2/4 band. Only install the blue o-ring when you know the 2/4 band /servo is set to go.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

We are going to for go the transgo kit due to budgetary constraints. I did do the check of the captured ball in the servo area. Used some stabil and it didn't seem to leak any. We will probably reuse the stock plate after working it with a hammer to get the check ball holes back into shape. I ordered up a set of the thorlon balls but haven't decided to use them yet. Might just do the metal ones. They lasted 225k miles. Or might order the transgo plate and go that way. Still up in the air. Will be drilling out the holes for firmer shifts on which ever plate we use.
I bought a pinless accumulator piston in anticipation of a plastic one but it hasn't come out yet. All metal so far. Will check the pin and pistons for wear and see but might just install the seals and go back with stock. The piston in the case had no spring. Have to study up on that. I have some white springs and would put one in if warranted. I like firm crisp shifts. But this is a suburban so.it ain't a racecar.
Will look into the wide bushing for the sun gear. I believe I ordered it and think it is in my box of parts.
I do appreciate the suggestions and want you to keep them coming. Thank you very much.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

Being that your transmission is a 1994 most likely you do not have the bonded pistons in the input forward drum, for you to use bonded pistons you will have to purchase a different spring/retainer to fit the bonded piston in the input forward drum.

Make sure you replace the o-ring inside the input "forward' drum. In some rebuild kits they have a green color to them.

I like to use the bearing at the sun shell area, instead of the thrust washer.

The sun shell is the weakest link to this transmission, once you upgrade the sun shell, where do you think is the weakest link now ?

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

Judging by the 3-4 clutches I pulled out they are an area that could use attention.
Got the bonded pistons and spring cage covered. Also going back with the little double spring things in the 3-4 clutch place. http://village.photos/images/user/b7...7bfc134c28.jpg

Replaced the skf sprag with a borg warner unit. The skf had some discoloration to the ring that goes on the inner race. Had a Little difficulty removing it. But it came off and we installed the new borgwarner.
soaked and stacked in the clutches and steels down in the drum with the new bonded pistons and the little green oring.

http://village.photos/images/user/b7...32d9548bfc.jpg

The 3-4 clutches came out pretty much done. One had no 'Teeth" on it and was split. A lot of material was gone from most and some had no clutch left on em. I stacked in some .106 steels and the new .080 frictions after a soak in the fluid. Got a .045 or so clearance and thought that to be good.http://village.photos/images/user/b7...96e7e0bb51.jpg
http://village.photos/images/user/b7...0c14b606c7.jpg

Figured out what the small compressor goes to.

http://village.photos/images/user/b7...4b0f609f83.jpg

All in all had a pretty productive activity and fun while doing it.

More when I do more.

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I would suggest to replace your forward sprag as well.

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http://village.photos/images/user/b7...0d84a1b396.jpg

I guess I didn't post up any pix of the front sprag. Not sure I took any other than when I took the old stuff apart. Bought a set when I was buying parts.

Ordered up a transGo vb plate and will probably go back with the stock steel balls. Worked for 225k miles so I'm thinking GM knew what they were doing.

Cold snap(yeah, I know, but I'm in Texas so 20s n 30s are cold to me, so I haven't gotten things going again yet.

More when I do more.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

New transgo vb plate came, and we put the new bushings in the shell that the band rides on. Didn't get any pix. Need to do the bushings in the sun gear but the holiday and work schedule are holding me back.

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Alright, did some more.
https://village.photos/images/user/b...0341a9d5bc.jpg
Swapped in some new bushings.
The originals didn't look too bad but once the new ones were in it sure took the slop out of the sun gear. Moral, put the new bushings in. Especially on a 225k mile trans.
https://village.photos/images/user/b...0ee05bdc90.jpg
I will say pay attention whaer the old ones were, and there are holes(i'm sure for lubrication) in that sun gear and if you put the bushing over the hole I would guess that would be bad.

https://village.photos/images/user/b...b6c13c959d.jpg
Fits in real nice.

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put the new rings on the input.
https://village.photos/images/user/b...4d17fcba69.jpg

I debated on changing them but glad I did. I pushed on em with the pick and they were brittle and broke easy. Stretched the new ones out on a funnel and am "sizing" them with some hose clamps and a piece of plastic from a soda bottle.

https://village.photos/images/user/b...d175a904ff.jpg

I think it is going well. Fooling with the pump is next.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

no need for shift kit turn pressure control solenoid up half a turn

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This is similar to people who put a can of trans rebuilder in their transmission when it starts to slip. I always wondered why there were Transmission shops that fixed transmissions, if the can of trans builder worked, no need for transmission shops ?
So than I guess TransGo will be put out of business, if all a person has to do is turn the screw in 1/2 turn on the pressure switch......how do you fix that P01870 code ? this forum makes me laugh, Thanks a lot, keep it coming !!!!

I wrote this on the bathroom wall in one of my transmission shops.... 1/2 turn rebuild....
:smoke:

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

https://village.photos/images/user/b...3313fdfae2.jpg
I didn't like how the reverse drum seal went in but was in a hurry when I did it. So I pulled it back apart to check it for a cut or rolled seal. Didn't find anything wrong so I put it back together and stacked in the clutches and steels. I'm cheap so I just put some sand paper to the steels and gave them a cross hatch pattern and squirted em off with brake cleaner and some air. They were flat and dint have burn spots so I'm sure they'll be fine.
Then we moved on to the pump. Pulled it apart including the boost valve and torque converter valve.

https://village.photos/images/user/b...a6378ecfc9.jpg

https://village.photos/images/user/b...cc9845bb74.jpg

I put in a sonnax purple slide spring with the stock inner spring in too. Swapped in some new rings. Inspected the slide, rotor, and vanes, cleaned it and inspected the pocket and reinstalled the pieces. Going back with a .500 boost valve with the orings on it and a spring that came in the sonnax lb1 kit. It is starting to take shape.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

[QUOTE=TexasT;8398481]https://village.photos/images/user/b...3313fdfae2.jpg
I didn't like how the reverse drum seal went in but was in a hurry when I did it. So I pulled it back apart to check it for a cut or rolled seal. Didn't find anything wrong so I put it back together and stacked in the clutches and steels. I'm cheap so I just put some sand paper to the steels and gave them a cross hatch pattern and squirted em off with brake cleaner and some air. They were flat and dint have burn spots so I'm sure they'll be fine.
=======================================================================
The reverse input drum piston fits nice and tight with the lip seals as it gets installed. Again, the lip wizard will cut these seals if you are in a hurry. This build has been going on for how long now, no sense in hurrying when it comes to installing these seals.

Did you drill out the two orifices in the reverse input piston and install the two upgraded orifices into the piston ? This is part of the transgo shift kit for your 4L60E.

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What do the revised orifices do? I didn't get a shift kit, just the upgraded boost valve and springs. If it does something worth while I'd consider getting and doing this.

I did fool with the pump the other night.
Put the larger boost valve and spring in. this valve has the orings. It is a ten vane pump. And put a washer in the over pressure valve.

I called the guy who does my converters. Got a quote to cut, clean and upgrade to a good bearing, good clutch and braze the fins. Said he could have it done in a few days after I drop it off.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

I suggested a shift kit in a previous post and you replied with

"We are going to for go the transgo kit due to budgetary constraints."

Not real sure exactly what that meant with that sentence but why not put a Transgo shift kit in it while you have it tore down. 50 bucks..... Buy the shift kit and it will give you your answer to your question.

The boost valve is great but again, not the total answer to this transmission.

Like YoungPup mentioned, P01870 code ?

Why not do it right the first time, and turning the pressure switch screw is not the answer either but I understand most people do things cheap and wonder why after the fact why they have issues I get it, but no one can beat experience and knowledge. Its up to you if you want to listen.

Its like these posts on this forum on why the crank will not turn after installing the crank, how in the world did the person get to this point in the first place, do all the prechecks prior to installation you would never have the issue, no difference in the shift kit. But again, got to like these forums.

I have to add, the 1/2 turn rebuild is now on my bathroom wall too thats a classic.
Here I sit, trying to make it shift but only fa*ted. LOL!!!!!

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

Fifty bux is fifty bux and I just wanted a reason to drop general grant in an item that wasn't in a stock trans that went 225k miles. I'm not going to spend fifty to find out. I am of the view that if you get the pressures up and control those pressures with new seals and gaskets it should go well.

The po1870 code seems to need a reemer and larger valve to get that spool in the vb back into tolerance. I didn't have that code so I'm not going to address it. If it ain't broke I'm not going to fix it.

Needless to say I'm cheap. I am not afraid to spend the coin, but I do need a reason. I talked to the guy who does our torque converters. He got me a price on rebuilding ours with a good bearing, good clutch and brazing the fins. Not the $68 reman that the local trans part house sells but not that cheap either.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

The Transgo shift kit comes with a new Converter regulator/isolator valve which works in a worn VB. GM and SRTA rebuilt VB's come with oversized valves which Transgo does provide a part number for a replacement valve in this case. The new valve that comes in the shift kit replaces all original equipment .441 diameter isolator and converter valves. No reamer is required when installing the Transgo isolator/converter regulator valves into the VB.

What type of Lockup plate does your TC Man install in your TC's ? The Transgo Converter regulator/isolator valves work with all lockup plates.

So when you install YOUR rebuilt transmission back into the vehicle and when the TC locks up and it has a bit of a shudder you can tell your TC man that his TC is bad. Right ?

Looks like you are installing a corvette servo, do you think this servo needs to match the accumulator in the VB. This accumulator is located in the VB next to the Pressure control switch, this accumulator housing bushing will have a code on the end of the housing (example: D,DX,R). This code will allow you to install the required spring/ OZ tension for the 2nd servo of choice.

Would you change your engine oil without changing the filter, I will not "rebuild" a 4L60E transmission without a transgo shift kit even in a vehicle with 225K miles. If it aint broke, than why did you pull the transmission out of the vehicle ? REDO or REBUILD, you make the choice.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

Good stuff. I do have white spring to go in the accumulator for the corvette servo. This isn't the pwm unit. It is a 94 so it is either on or off so I doubt it will "shudder". I'm not sure on the clutch apply plate for the converter but I've been dealing with this place/person for over twenty five yrs and my dad longer than that. I trust he will take care and use what works.

I'm not to.the vb yet and will address the loose valve if it presents itself.
As far as pulling it, It was pulled in the early 2000s and replaced with a wrecking yard unit with 105k miles and decent pink fluid. This trans went another 50k or so and quit shifting. Probably a solenoid but with a "core" to build the activity was on.

You saw the clutches. They looked the part of high mile pieces. Obviously they were slipping. Hence the larger servo and higher pressure to try to get that under control. It wont be a hot rod and Won't be making passes at the strip. Just has to carry itself and a trailer some days and I'm confident it will.
I'll check the eBay for a kit and see what it entails. Just seems like a band aid and a fifty dollar one at that.
I'm just a back yard DIY guy who does my own work for fun(and I just don't want to spend the money to have someone else do it). If I had to make good on a warranty for the knot heads out beating on stuff in sure I would see things more like you do.
What happened to the young pup fellow? No constructive criticism? I can take it. I'm of the view that these forums are to help others and I'm glad Mr cheveyretoreman is providing that. Thanks for taking the time to post.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

"What happened to the young pup fellow? No constructive criticism? I can take it. I'm of the view that these forums are to help others and I'm glad Mr cheveyretoreman is providing that. Thanks for taking the time to post."




Most likely YoungPup saw that you were from Texas, so he don't mess with Texas. Texas does it their way.:lol:

I think you got this all covered, sounds like you really do not need any more help.

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

I'm just posting up what I am doing. I have no.problem taking in any and all suggestions and am certainly glad you have posted. Will I use them all? You posted it yourself in a hard headed individual from Texas. Yall ran the last one off and he did have mad skills and knowledge.

Either way thanks again for the input I will certainly think them over. I post o plenty of forums and have been called names but I don't let that hold me back. I just want the why when I spend my hard earned money.

Am I wrong when I suggest that without the pwm for the converter clutch it is either on or off? This seems pretty similar to the setup in the 2004r and the 700r4. If you provide decent pressure and don't try to lock it up at full throttle it should engage. And if it engages stay engaged until told to release by adding throttle angle or a vacuum drop. Am I way off? I like to know what things do. I can be over the top, I get that. It isn't personal.

Again thank you very much for the suggestions. Obviously they work for you. I just want to understand the magic in there that makes it so.

As far as the guy with the "tight" crank, kudos to him for getting out and doing. Checkbook hotrodders might fund a lot of business but i don't respect a guy who doesn't wrench on his stuff. Doesn't mean i don't like them or wont help them, just don't respect them. To me hot rodding ia about putting it together and making it work, no matter how many times or late nights and weekends it takes. And with YouTube, one can learn just about anything. We all started somewhere. And if everyone knew everything nothing would ever go wrong. I try to be a lifelong learner and hope to help others along the way.

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WOW dude, not sure exactly what you are saying about running people off. I just indicated you got it covered and you do not need me to tell ya how to do your DIY job. thats it. :lol:

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"Get the pressures up and control those pressures with new seals and gaskets. FU

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

I bet you are the life of the party. No input, no tech, just insults and such. Good thing you have your knowledge. Better than nothin'.

I am out wrenchin, having a good time, you on the other hand seem to have a poor attitude and no desire to share what you think you know. Why do you come you a site like this? Just to waste your time? It makes you feel better about yourself to insult others? You my friend, and I use the term friend loosely, are a sad individual.

And fifty bux is still fifty bux. The transgo folks and apparently you are in the businesses to make money. I get that. Guys like me don't support you. We do it on the cheap and save a little coin. You are butthurt. I get that. Tell you what, go back to whatever rock it is you crawled out from under and Ill not summon you to my thread again. It is painfully obvious you aren't interesting in helping anyone else.

I ask a simple question. What does it do? Neither of you have elaborated. Yall posted of a po1870 code. I didn't have that code and doubt it will because it isn't a pwm trans so the valve isn't constantly being shuttled through its bore. Neither of you went into that or denied my theory other than, this is the way we do it and any other way is wrong. I did do some homework on this trans. I did do some youtube vid watching. Didn't see anything on there that you produced to substantiate your position. Just you on here trying to big time me throwing out that you have a buddy at transgo.

When you have something to add, post it. Other wise I ask again, why do you waste your time here?

Re: 4L60e overhaul
 

C f s