1972 Blazer Steering
I've still never been able get my steering to stop swaying or having a bit of a mind of it's own. 33 12.5's. I've done rag joint, Red Head steering box, new ball joints, etc. New leaf springs and bushings - just can't seem to get it like it should be. The toe has been adjusted but not with special castor shims as of yet. My guy is telling me that he thinks a heavy duty dual shock set up should be installed. The single that was on before didn't seem to help. I have it off now.
Thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. No lift on it. |
Re: 1972 Blazer Steering
Shocks wont do anything except affect the ride.
As I've mentioned before, increase caster (especially with larger wheels). I'm at 6.5 degrees. Set the toe-in to around 3/16 (this can be done with a simple tape measure) Make sure your steering arm is parallel to the ground. Install a 73-up front sway bar. (This made a huge difference in handling) Don't use a quick ratio steering box (useless with the short wheelbase) My Blazer drives like it on rails even at 80+MPH. I also have 12.5X33's and a mild 2" lift. Hope this helps ! |
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Silly question, is your box tight to the frame and the drag link adjusters tight? My 71 would just wander all over the place and didn't want to go in a straight line. Turns out the box was loose and moving every time I turned the wheel. I had a loose drag link end as well which only compounded the issue. Everything is tight now and she drives like a dream. Totally different truck. I'm running 33X10.50.
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Another question - were the rear sway bars only on the trucks with coil systems? I assume so. Thanks for all of your help, it's greatly appreciated. ryan |
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Thanks, ryan |
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I believe Addco makes a rear anti-sway bar for the Blazer, but all you really need is the factory front one IMO. |
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I recently switched wheel/Tire combos from 35-12.5 on 8" rallys to
33-12.5 on 10" Indy slots, and boy does it wander all over the place. Steered absolutely perfect before the change. Thinking about going back.., What width wheels are on your Blazer? |
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Mmm, I'm stumped then too haha
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Stock stabilizer.
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Sway bar will not help you if I understand your symptoms correctly. Sway bars are to reduce body roll, not help with steering wander. What can cause steering wander is any play in the steering system from the steering wheels to the driving wheels or an alignment out of wack.
I know you said you replaced a lot, but is there any noticable play if you just turn the steering wheel back an forth? If you Jack each side of the axle up, can you feel any play in the tire? How good is the guy doing the alignment? Maybe time to try a different shop? |
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Both an all terrain type tire. Only thing I can think of is that the front axle now has a wider stance-track area? I feel like I'm driving a bloodhound who is locked on a scent
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Any lift? No mention of dropped pitman arm or raised steering arm. Any good pics of your drag link? Like Hemi mentioned, the arm coming from the steering box to the axle steering arm needs to be close to level or you'll have wander and bump steer
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Incorrect toe setting will cause bad wandering. Get that sucker toe'd in.
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Someone earlier mentioned a sway bar doesn't help wander. Well I can assure you that it does. It does this in a couple ways. It will reduce body roll on uneven roads, but the best advantage is that it helps keep the front axle where it need to be. Without a sway bar, all that locates the front axle is the front springs. The design of the factory sway bar doesn't use outer links so it bolts directly to the axle. It's a huge safety item too. I was always concerned about breaking a front spring. If this ever happens (and it does) you are guaranteed to go into the ditch. The sway bar would prevent this. |
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Agree on the FACTORY 73 up 4WD front sway bar. Install a 78’ on our 1964 K10 long bed. It is a little more involved then on a 72’. You can pull one your self, or find one on EBay. The complete setup with crossmember is about $150 shipped. CrazyRay sells them on the forum too or eBay.
Getting ready to do same on 72’ Blazer. Just need to develop plan as how to locate/attach front bar mounting bracket. 1). Change out front crossmember, use the one with new front sway bar, or 2). modify the front sway bar brackets that come with it from that crossmember to fit 72 crossmember. 3). Or make new bracket and attach them to original crossmember ( this is likely simplest). Hemi43 do you have a build where you show how you attached the front of the factory bar. Can try to get photos in a few days. Les |
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I modified the factory 73-up sway bar mounts to fit my 70 cross member. It was actually very easy to do, and I'll try and post a couple pictures when I get a chance. |
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I don't understand the complaints about steering. I am full factory set up. Yesterday I ran 70mph and can completely take my hands off the wheel and run straight down the road. Corners like on rails. Far better than my 88 blazer. I can on;y think of toe and worn out parts are the issue. Tires measure 31" x 8.5"
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Has anyone used spacers on the back to align the tires? If so, do you know if that helps the wander at all?
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Just tagging along here... I have a 72 Jimmy, 4x4, 4" new lift, new red head box, alignment complete and after a very frustrating 1.5 years I'm still chasing the front end all over on anything other than a straight road. The only thing that's not new is the steering column.... so I just ordered one. I have sway bars still sitting pretty in their boxes but no idea how to fab them up to work :(
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Moving this to where I should have posted to start with:I asked about my front driver's side wheel sticking out 1" further than the passenger side.
This from Hemi43: Measure the distance from the inside of the front tire to the side of the frame. If the measurements are the same, then this will rule out the axle being shifted to one side. I would then look at the front sheet metal being off location. (rotted/broken body mounts or rad support.) |
Re: 1972 Blazer Steering
I think we'd like to see several pics of your axle, spring perches, axle tubes, and steering linkages to start. Pics of your tire stickout as well general fender/panel fitment may help as well. Plus those measurements asked for above.
:chevy: |
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Here's some pics I just took tonight to see if anyone notices anything wrong that would make my steering "dart back and forth" as others described above. I'll do the measurement as Hemi43 suggested tomorrow
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Yes Sir, I'll wear ya'll out with photos tomorrow after work. It's darker than dirt here now
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I can't see any issues in the pictures. I know you said you had the front aligned already, but i would measure the toe-in to see where it's at. If the alignment shop used factory specs, you won't have enough toe-in. With your large tires I would aim for 3/16". I'm sure everyone is tired of me saying this, but increase your caster with angled shim blocks. The more caster you have, the better your truck will go down the road. (within reason) I have 6 1/2 degrees.
Edit; I just re-read your post and see you have a redhead box. If this is a fast ratio, that may cause some problems, IMO. |
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Thank you and I'm never tired of hearing a potential solution! I will certainly set it to your recommended specs. The Jimmy steered the same when I bought it, so I thought installing the new gear box would fix it. Unfortunately it did nothing good or bad.
Two different body shops with frame machines said the frame is good with no signs of damage or altercation. All the spring perches are original and measure correctly. All that to say, you have to be right. |
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Can we see pics of the spring perches and the tire stick out you mentioned?
Assuming all this is good - I'm inclined to agree that it's your toe in setting and possibly caster as mentioned. |
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Trying to get the pics to load...
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This was the best way I could show how the driver's wheel sticks out approximately an inch further than the passenger side.
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grasping at straws here, but do you have a quick ratio steering box and are the u bolt nuts on the steering dampner tight, the pic looks like there is wear on both sides, couldn't blow up the pic large enuff to tell
does that bolt look like its going into the center of the leaf spring in the fifth pic |
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Here's the Redhead gear(steering) box info for what I put in:
2851: 1968 – 1976 PICKUPS, SUBURBANS, BLAZERS 4X4 Rated 5.00 out of 5 based on 1 customer rating(1 customer review) From $266.00 PART #2851. Fits most 1968 – 1976 Chevy and GMC Pickups, Suburban’s and Blazers 4WD. This steering gear has a large input shaft, large piston, NOTCHED SECTOR SHAFT (clamp style pitman arm), flair fittings and is the pickup style mount. If you have a sector (output) shaft that the pitman arm is held on with a nut and washer then you the 2WD steering gear, our part number 2850. You can either order this steering gear and change your pitman arm or you can order the 2850. This gear comes stock as the 15:1 ratio (3 to 3.5 turns lock to lock). If you would the 18:1 ratio (4 – 4.5 turns lock to lock) please order 2851 4T. On another note: I measured from the inner tire to the frame as per Hemi43's suggestion and the driver's side is 1/2" further to the outside than the passenger. Looks like 2", so maybe the front driver's side finder is causing the illusion. ...and Yes Sir, the bolt is somehow bent at the end. No telling how those morons did that? |
Re: 1972 Blazer Steering
Can we see the axle tubes and the spring perches on the axle.
Also its still a 6 lug truck, right? |
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