New to me engine
 

I picked up a 427 TD for my C60. The stories goes it was a good running engine and the truck was scrapped. It's been sitting for 2 years. He even let me do a compression test on it before I bought it, which it passed. I bought it for dirt cheap, got it home tore everything off of it and out of it aside from the rotating assembly. There are still cross hatches in all 8 cylinders, no signs of rust.

The reason I tore it down aside from the obvious was to regasket it. Well that's done and I'm treating it like a fresh engine. I stripped the old points distributor to use as a priming tool. Here's my issue. I am getting 54 psi of oil on my gauge while spinning the drill. I'm only getting oil out of #2 intake push rod while I can see it trying to come through the rest of them and my wife verified with her ears (I'm partially deaf) that they're pushing air. I went through and readjusted the valves thinking I did it wrong. I got the valves to 0 lash following the procedure and went 1/2 turn for preload. I'm no engine builder but this is what I've gathered from the web. Did I do it right and am I thinking my drill just doesn't have enough nuts behind it?

Thanks

Re: New to me engine
 

Have you tried turning the engine in 90 degree increments and run the pump each time for a minute or two?

Re: New to me engine
 

Yes I have. I have been doing a lot of reading since posting. I don't think my 18v cordless has enough nuts. I'm going to get out my dewalt. I've also read a lot of guys who say run it and it'll be alright. I want to see the oil!

Re: New to me engine
 

I vote for a bigger drill. I use my old B & D 1/2 chuck drill and the pumps load it up big time!

Re: New to me engine
 

Takes quite a while to move the oil with a drill unless you can get the rpms up to about 1000 rpm. My 1/2'' drill only spins at about 4-500 rpm, takes me a good 30 minutes or more without turning the engine. Big blocks have pretty large oil galleys to fill up and bleed the air out of

Re: New to me engine
 

My dewalt 1/2" tops out at 600 unloaded rpm while my cordless is rated at 1500 but it definitely isn't hitting it loaded up.

It struck me as odd that I was getting 54 psi in the gauge and seeing oil come from the #2 intake push rod. After reading a lot I feel better about it. Hopefully a few more days and I'll be ready to drop it in.

Re: New to me engine
 

Did you get all the lifters back in the same bores?

Re: New to me engine
 

54 psi with a hand drill is EXCELLENT! You never get oil out all the rockers on a static motor oil prime especially with hydrohalic lifters... That's what the assembly lube is for. Button that baby up and run it! ALWAYS use the EOIC (Exhaust Opening Intake Closing) method for setting valve lash. Since your using hydrohalic lifters, once the pushrod will not move Vertically (Not Spinning!) The spinning the push rod method can get you into trouble! Just move the push rod up and down while tightening the rocker nut. Once zero clearance is established (no more linier movement) give the nut another 1/2 turn and your golden!

Re: New to me engine
 

Yes, all the lifters and push rods are in the same exact place they were before I tore it down.

I will readjust all the lifters again using that method instead of spinning them. Thanks for the reassurance guys!

Re: New to me engine
 

What are you using for a new distributor?

Re: New to me engine
 

This is my second 427td. The first one had a no name HEI that worked well. When I bought the truck the cam was partially rounded off and had low oil pressure (I didn't know it), the more I drove it the worse it got. I did a compression test and it failed. So I pulled it and stripped it down to find it needed a full rebuild and punched out. I had planned to have that one rebuilt until I came across the "new" one. I am using some parts from both engines. For instance the heads from my original engine had physically bigger exhaust ports for some reason though running the numbers they're supposed to be the same size. Not to mention the heads from my original engine had no carbon build up and the new heads had quite a bit. The intake from my original engine and most of the pulley system since I've already sand blasted and painted most of them.

Re: New to me engine
 

You got a handle on it!
While you don’t need a normal break in, it would be good to run your first start rpm around 1000 rpm.
Gets the oil pumping good.

Re: New to me engine
 

I'll admit I'm a bit paranoid about the first fire up so I'm not taking any chances on it. I got break in additive for the the oil too just to make myself feel better about it. I hope to have it ready to go in soon. In a perfect world I'll have it all back together before it gets too cold here.

Re: New to me engine
 

Another question. My original engine had a mechanical fuel pump. The new engine I assume had to have an electric pump because there's a block off plate. Do I take the rod from my original block, stick it in there and go about installing the mechanical fuel pump? Or is there anything else I need to check? I don't know if all blocks have provisions for this or not

Re: New to me engine
 

If there's a block off plate then the block is drilled and tapped for a fuel pump. Your fuel pump rod should fit it, if it's the same block.

Re: New to me engine
 

You might even find the original pushrod behind that plate.

Re: New to me engine
 

I pulled the plate, no rod in it. They're the same block so I should be good to go. Thanks again guys... until the next question

Re: New to me engine
 

Not a bad deal for $300 if you as me! That's how it looked when I picked it up. The guy even let me use his trailer to get it home! The second picture is how it currently looks

Re: New to me engine
 

300 for a tall deck 427 would be a great deal if you were building a 500+cid engine . . . . :smoke::sumo:

572 cid https://www.cleggengine.com/chevy-bi...mpetition.html :sumo: :sumo:

Re: New to me engine
 

I am seriously debating going that route for my wife's mega truck once mine is done. A 4.500" crank seems like an awful lot of throw. E85 is what I was going to shoot for and a cr around 12-13:1ish. The point of my truck is to pull hers and a possible future truck for me. There's a picture of her truck in my build thread in my signature. I think 800 horsepower in her truck should be just about right. She doesn't want anything crazy, that's a future build I'm sure I'll be asking questions about later though.

Re: New to me engine
 

Update. My wife and I got it installed the other day and fired last night. Everything seems great. I set the initial timing at 10* and I'll play with it from there later. I read these tall decks don't like anymore than 8-10 degrees, if it's too much I'll drop it to 8. Oil pressure at a warm idle is 18-22psi.

Re: New to me engine
 

NICE for the PRICE !!!! How about some installed pics.

Re: New to me engine
 

I don't have any currently but when I do take them I'll update the build thread in my signature.

Re: New to me engine
 

You need to make sure that your cam has a lobe on it for the fuel pump rod. I'm no expert...I'd get a piece of dowel in the pushrod hole and spic engine over...

Re: New to me engine
 

If it didn't then I wouldn't have had gas ram rod to the carb correct? It took roughly 3 cranks of the engine before I had gas rush to my filter on the top of the engine.

The fuel level in my tank was lower than the carb but higher than the fuel pump so I have to assume I'm good to go.

Re: New to me engine
 

Update and questions.

The truck fires right up whenever I hit the key. It sounds pretty good too. Once in a while I'll get a pop out of the exhaust. I can't really touch the gas pedal until it's been running for a minute otherwise it stumbles, once it's over that it has great response sitting there.

I've only driven it a couple of miles since I had a long list of things to do to it but that list is short now. I don't have a plate on it but plan to do that this coming spring. This truck does not like to rev. Once I hit my higher gears it is very slow to gain speed. I have good fuel pressure, new plugs/wires, headers, full 2-1/2" exhaust all the way back with an H-pipe. It is still timed at 8 degrees and I hooked up the vacuum advance so at idle it's at 12 degrees. Even with the 4 barrel feeding the motor with everything it has it takes a country mile to get to 45 mph.

What I have yet to do is replace the cap/rotor. I'm running the HEI cap that came with the first motor. I think this is a good place to start to find my power loss but any suggestions beyond that?

Re: New to me engine
 

What’s the fuel pressure at?
Strange hooking up the vac advance only added 4 degrees to your initial of 8.
Which port on the carb is your vac hooked onto?

Re: New to me engine
 

Fuel pressure is at 5-6psi.

Vacuum advance is hooked up to the left port on the AVS2.

Re: New to me engine
 

That means you’re hooked to ported vacuum.
Getting enough vacuum to add 4 degrees timing tells you that the idle screw is adjusted up too much. Carb is idling on the power circuit. Idles rich.
Hook the hose to the right port. Idle will increase. Then adjust the screw back out.
That could be the cause of the stumble.
That should help ir run better.
Then try more initial.
Bump it up to 12.
See what that does.

Are you still using the original valve springs?
Low power is a symptom of weak springs.

Re: New to me engine
 

I think I would measure the cam lift on each individual rocker just to rule out the possibility that a lobe could be beginning to wear. I'd also set the valves with the engine running. I found mine a bit tight after following one of the suggested methods prior to it running.

I've had a really old corroded up cap on the 250 HEI. It didn't seem to bother it at all. More likely could be a plug or wire off a bit. It's a bit of a hassle but did you try removing plug wires one at a time?

If it doesn't like to rev hopefully a little more advance will fix it. On the other hand I have noticed on my 350 that it doesn't like too much advance. It revs really nice to a certain point and then doesn't like it at all. Most of my timing is by ear though and I feel that after 3 or 4 tries it gets pretty close to optimum.

I hope you get it running well. I see one out in Canmore with a well drilling rig on it. Another is parked next to the highway with a sign advertising trees. It's nice to see the old big trucks still being useful.

Re: New to me engine
 

Geezer :
Everything internally is original to the "new" motor. After measuring the bores, doing a compression test and seeing what looked like a fresh machined engine I figured all was probably well.
I'll swap the vacuum line over and see what happens. 12 degrees sounds like a lot for a tall deck from what I've read. Then again I don't claim to be an engine builder but I know my way around them enough to be dangerous.

Vince:
I tried one way I found on the internet and it was a fail adjusting the valves. I tried it twice actually. I ended up doing it another way and it's been running somewhat good. That's why I was pointing toward the HEI since I have lots of time to troubleshoot while I'm at work. I haven't verified the plugs and wires are still good. I assumed they are since they have roughly 3 total hours of run time on them mostly at idle.

I don't know if it'll help trouble shooting but the truck will rev faster in the lower gears. Keep in mind I have a 5 speed with a 2 speed rear end. 5H is 1:1. 1,2 and 3rd gear it revs pretty decent. Once I hit 4th and 5th gear she falls on her face. I just assume the power loss isn't as noticeable because the gearing helps cover it up. I can't imagine 50 years ago guys using this same engine to pull 30-80k pounds at least not the way mine feels to me.

I haven't been able to put it to use quite yet. I work a lot and have been chipping away at things when I have spare time. I will have it plated this coming spring but while it's still warm out I'd like to resolve the issues it has. Once it's all worked out I'll move onto making it the truck I want it to be cosmetically.

I appreciate all the help!!

Re: New to me engine
 

Maybe in 4th and 5th your secondaries aren’t opening making in run on only te front 2bbl’s.
Might try adjusting the air door a bit richer.

What rpm are you running in 4th or 5th.

Re: New to me engine
 

They're definitely kicking in, I can hear them when they do.
Trying to get it to spin more than 2700 rpm or so is almost uncomfortable. It feels like I'm over working the motor in 4th and 5th.
I don't use 1st gear in the truck because there's no need to, 1st is good for about 3 mph. I take off out of second gear and shift to 3rd gear almost right away. I'm in 4th gear around 25 mph.

I have another tall deck in my arsenal but the other one one is a 366 and I've spun that to 4500 before it felt like my 427 does. The 366 doesn't run out of steam until about 4300 rpm. It's an apples to oranges comparison because the 366 is in my wife's mud truck.

Re: New to me engine
 

What’s your timing curve like?
How much mechanical timing?
All in by what rpm?

At 2700 you might only have 25 To 30 degrees total.

Re: New to me engine
 

This engine used to be governed to 3200 rpm. My original engine was also governed to 3200 with the same HEI but the carb was stock. They both rev very similar to each other even with a bad cam in the first motor.

I don't know any solid numbers for my mechanical timing. I'll have to put a piece of tape on the pulley with timing marks on it since I can only see up to12 or 16 degrees and it goes beyond that when reved just off idle.

I believe it is all in at a low rpm. I changed the mechanical springs to the lightest ones that came in the kit while the distributor was still in the original motor.

I get a day off tomorrow for the first time in 2 months so I'll be able to hopefully answer all of your questions tonight or tomorrow

Re: New to me engine
 

You nailed it right here! Since it has idled more than anything with the screws adjusted out too far it basically flooded itself constantly. I made sure the timing was at 8 degrees again. Pulled all the plugs, cleaned the carbon or gas off of them and stuck them right back in. Hooked up my vacuum gauge set the mixture screws correctly. Rehooked the vacuum advance, now I can't tell how far advance it goes. It runs smooth. I took it for a ride and was able to spin it to 3500 rpm without any hesitation whatsoever! This truck hauls some ass now! Thank you!!

Re: New to me engine
 

ROUND 3:

I took the old girl out for a Sunday ride last week. Everything was right in the world and she ran like a scalded dog (for what it is). When I pulled back into the driveway she went up in flames. I got it all put out and though it's a buzz kill because of how good it was running after all this time, it's not a total loss. It cooked the paint on the top of the hood, I was planning on painting it anyways. Wires are all junk along with some hard lines and a lot of rubber.

The distributor is melted beyond me messing with. I've been doing a lot of reading on a distributor for this truck and can't come across a definite answer if a standard BBC distributor will work or not. I've read that a standard one will work with hei as long as it's a tall deck block and a tall deck manifold. Then I've read the opposite too. Any solid answer?

I'm also debating going fuel injection. My edelbrock doesn't seem to have been bothered by anything but will get a rebuild if I don't pull the trigger on injecting it. Anyone have any reviews on a good fuel injection setup?

Re: New to me engine
 

What started the fire?

Re: New to me engine
 

I'm not 100% sure and never will be because any evidence was burnt up. It could have been my pressure gauge or fuel filter I had under the hood. Everything was brand new including the fuel lines and ss clamps. I'm guessing there was enough gas to make its way down to the header, at least that's what the little bit of evidence I can see shows that happened.

Re: New to me engine
 

Sad to hear that!
I’ve had that thrill before. Popped the hood just in time to see fuel boiling on the intake then wooosh!
Here’s likely the best hei you could use.
You need one for a tall deck. Standard deck is too short.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-13720bk