68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I need some suggestions lowering my 68 C10 short bed. I bought this truck the way you see it in the pictures. The front has Russell (never heard of them and can't get any info on them) drop spindles and the rear (coil springs) has 2 inch lowering blocks. The dilemma is I want to get rid of the lowering blocks but I'm not sure if it was lowered with just the blocks or blocks and springs. If I order new springs to replace the blocks it's a 2 inch drop but if I assume the springs and blocks were used and order the wrong springs I'm stuck with them.

According to the LMC Truck catalog it looks like the front was dropped 2-1/2 inches and the rear either 3 or 4 inches??

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a92fc7b3_k.jpg


Here is the front.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6c9b4d75_b.jpg[/IMG]


Here is the rear

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cc213447_b.jpg


What I'm asking is what does this front and rear drop look like to you? If the back looks like a 4 inch drop I'll remove the 2 inch lowering blocks and install 4 inch drop springs.
Any suggestions are appreciated.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Can you take pics of the rear springs? Also, can we see a whole sideshot of the truck?

If you like the way it looks, why change it? Does it ride bad, or do you just want it lowered properly?

Keep in mind that going to a 4" spring may require shorter shocks and shock relocation brackets for better ride quality.

FWIW, I wouldn't order anything from LMC. Try www.azproperformance.com

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Well first it needs a C notch kit because the axle is 1\2 inch from the bump stop and not comfortable over bumpy road. Secondly the lowering blocks are causing the trailing arms to be too low to the ground. I want to eliminate the blocks and use only the springs to lower it. I already have shock relocation brackets installed and the shocks are fine and don't bottom out. I don't want to lower the truck at the back any more than it already is. What I don't know is did the previous owner use springs and blocks to get it that low or just the blocks?? If someone who has lowered their truck as mine is in the picture what springs did they use?
Thanks

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

If you look under the truck at where the trailing arms attach to the rear end you can tell if lowering blocks are installed.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I know I have 2 inch lowering blocks installed. I want to get rid of them and replace the existing springs to get the same height.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I am going with 2" blocks and springs as I want as much suspension travel as I can get.

Even if the trailing arms are closer to the ground with the blocks they are in line with the tires and shouldn't hit anything unless it goes between your tires. Speed bumps etc should not be a problem.

I really don't have a clue and am in the planning stages of mine. If I feel the trailing arms really are too low I may swap to a 1" block? Personally I want as much suspension travel as possible and no C notch.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

This picture is with 2 inch lowering blocks but not sure the springs are stock. If so this is what you get for clearance to the bump stop.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...228017de_b.jpg

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Just blocks shouldn't get you that low. From what I have been reading (I am new to 2 wheel drive suspensions) you can go about 5" before needing a notch.

Take another picture of how close to the floor your differential is?

Again from what I have been reading even with a C notch there isn't much more travel before the differential hits the bottom of the floor.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

You mean from the bottom of the bed not the floor? I can't get under there with a camera and the gas tank in the back won't allow a picture but I estimate about 4 to 5 inches from the top of the diff to the bed.

According to the pictures in the catalog above and the picture of my truck at the rear it looks like I have a 3 inch drop???

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Post a picture of your rear springs. What I see are coils that are touching each other. This means someone heated the springs.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Spring coils are not even close. No evidence of heated coils.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8d625aa7_b.jpg

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Something seems way off here! I had 6" drop springs, and .75" blocks on my 68 before changing to coilovers. I had removed the bumpstops, but still had plenty of frame clearance. There's no way a 4" drop should be hitting the bumpstops.

Can you post of full side shot of the truck?

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

What size wheels/tires are on the truck?

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I'm thinking you may have a 4/6 drop.

Take a stroll through this thread to see what looks like you have instead of comparing to that inaccurate LMC rendering.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=430300&page=2

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Sorry. Not sure what I saw in the last picture.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Per your pic above if you remove the lowering block your axle assembly will lower (raising the truck) the thickness of the block. In your case 2". But the trailing arm will remain the same distance from the ground. The trailing arm to ground distance is determined by the wheel and tire combo you are running. I think I got that right. Others can chime in if I'm incorrect.
I'm running a a 5.5" drop in the rear. 4" springs with 2" blocks. My frame is c-notched. I added a 1/2" spacer under the rear spring to give me the rake I wanted. Bell Tech 4" springs.
If you have enough threads on the u-bolt or if you don't adding a bunch temporary washers I'd try removing the 2" block and see if that works for you.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

If you remove the lowering block the trailing arm at the rear axle will be 2” farther away from the ground.

To the OP,... those look like 5” or 6” drop springs.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

275-45-18 on the back and 245-45-18 on the front. You may be correct about the LMC rendering not being correct.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

5" or 6" drop springs and a 2" lowering block??? I really appreciate the suggestions but the distance between the top of the tire and the fender doesn't indicate that. The axle to frame/bump stop doesn't either?? I'm gonna get burned by buying springs if I don't get the right ones the first time. The main reason for doing all of this is so I can get rid of the 2 inch lowering blocks. The ground clearance is too low. It's not really a problem on the road but I hit/grazed a raised manhole cover once and I have a scissor lift that I can't drive on without driving up on ramps.

I know for sure I have stock springs in the front because I bought them and installed them. I tried with NO LUCK to identify the front drop spindles. The casting says RUSSELL. Everyone I spoke with in the industry says they've never heard of them. Obviously they were around but where?


Here is another view. Another thing I have to change is the angle of the panhard bar.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d3b7831f_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3d0bce67_b.jpg

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

After looking at the link you sent me I'm thinking it may be 3 inch drop springs and a 2 inch lowering block for a total of 5 inches?? I guess the best way to determine how much mine is dropped in the rear is the distance between the axle tube and the bump stop or frame. My axle tube is about 1/8" from the bump stop and it does need a C notch or my wife won't get in it anymore. LOL

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Nobody commented on this statement so I will.... When you remove the lowering blocks, you will also be decreasing the shock stroke the same amount. Lowering blocks in a truck-arm application allow for drop w/o impacting the shock stroke distance. If you eliminate the blocks & maintain a similar drop amount using coils only, you will be decreasing the shocks travel so they may not work like they do now once the blocks are removed.

Something to be aware of & understand.

Also, for the Panhard bar, extend the frame mount lower vs. changing the bracket on the rear housing. At or slightly below the axle centerline & parallel to the road would be better vs. above the centerline (how they were originally).

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Thanks SCOTI
I'm well aware of the shock issue. I may just install the c notch kit for now and worry about the removal of the lowering blocks later. I agree that I should lower the banhard bar bracket on the frame. Are there weld on brackets available or do I have to fabricate one?
Thanks
Jim

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I know NoLimit Engineering & Porterbuilt sell aftermarket PHB 'kits' that have a bracket that bolts to the frame & has a lower position relative to the OE location but I don't know of a single frame bracket available. My guess is you'd need to fab one. It's not too difficult if you have the tools & desire. I made mine before the NLE & PB stuff was available.....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=368476

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Thanks for the info and the link. You did a good good job on that. I'll have to copy that! Is it patent pending?:)

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Does anybody want to take a crack at what the drop is and who the manufacturer of these spindles is?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...aa149102_b.jpg


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...34786b77_b.jpg

The casting says Russell.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a2af4a49_b.jpg

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

That looks like the Russell performance logo and a 1990 build date to me. http://www.russellperformance.com/ They are owned by Edelbrock now but a quick web search reveals they used to produce a few suspension parts back in the 90's.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Thanks, I contacted Russell a year ago to see if they could tell me anything about them. The guy on the phone insisted they never made them. I asked him how long he has been with the company,,, he said 10 years. Then I asked him if there was anybody there that was around in the 90's. He laughed and said no. Times they are a changin!

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I know they sold spindles under the Russell name years & years ago. But, that was years & years ago so internet searching for some old instructions or tech stuff is probably the best you'll find if you find anything At all.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

http://russellperformance.com/
http://russellperformance.com/images...go-russell.png
I don't think they make spindles any longer.

EDIT:
...I just looked back through this post, I guess I was a little late with that information.:rolleyes:

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

After several Google searches there was nothing helpful at all.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

UPDATE:
Well after watching several videos and tons of research I'm guessing I have 5 or 6 inch drop springs (as lolife99 suggested) in the rear with 2 inch lowering blocks so total drop of 7 or 8 inches. So basically a fraction of an inch from the factory bump stop and about 1-1/2 inches from the tubing hitting the frame. In other words limited travel. I was going to C notch the frame with a CPP kit but if I do it's likely going to cause the rear end housing to hit the bed floor and my over the axle exhaust. With the tubing jacked up touching the frame I have about 1-1/4 inches before the diff hits the bed floor and about an inch before the tubing hits the over axle exhaust. I guess my choices are to C notch it and install bump stops to limit travel or remove the 2 inch lowering blocks and see how it looks. I was also thinking to try leaving things as they are and cut the factory bump stops so I get a little more travel but not hit the frame. I do not want to alter the exhaust or the bed floor to accommodate the extra room I'll have with the c notch. Guys I've been working as a mechanic most of my life so I'm no stranger to all of this but I'm NOT familiar with the drop modifications available and the consequences for doing it. Lack of experience on my part. I removed the rear springs to try and Identify them with no luck. They are free standing at 9-1/2 inches and have a .692" wire diameter. What I DON'T UNDERSTAND is why the front sits as low as it does with ONLY drop spindles and stock springs with new lower control arms. I know they are stock replacements because I installed them. Any suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks
Jim

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

You're saying you put the "stock" springs in there & stock a-arms?

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Yes. The front has stock replacement lower A arms and Moog stock 6082 coil springs. As I said earlier I can't identify the drop spindles.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I went back to look @ the pics again.

Your front wheel/tire combo measures @ 26.6". Given the gap above to the fender lip, I'll say 3" spindle drop up front. At 27.7" in the back, probably 3" springs & 2" blocks.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Scoti
Thanks for your opinions on this. I guess I'll have to figure out what to do about the rear drop. Not quite enough clearance to leave it but a C notch will create other issues. I may have to live with a bumpy ride?

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Another thing that concerns me is the rear shocks. Although they don't bottom out at full compression, they travel well beyond the spring at full extension. If the springs weren't bolted top and bottom they would fall out when the suspension was completely extended. What do guys do in this situation?

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

You need a shock that doesn't bottom out on compression or extension. If it doesn't do that, you're ok. Shock angle can always be improved on the Truck-arm set-ups vs how they came from GM.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=451200

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Thanks SCOTI

Usually it's the shocks bottoming out that keeps the suspension from fully extending and springs from falling out.

Suspension fully extended sitting on the shocks.

I have shock relocation brackets installed.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e5109664_b.jpg

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

The coils should be bolted in top & bottom.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Yeah I know. Just had everything out to measure up for a C notch and wanted to show how much more the shocks travel than the springs.