Front suspension and steering questions
I finished the rear end swap and noticed it drives much better, however, all the little bumps in the road really create a jarring experience. Like all the reflectors in the road, just driving over them, you can feel every single one. Would new springs help with this? I just installed new shocks all the way around.
Also, looking at converting to power steering; the steering box is a bit loose. Defintiely want to tighten that up. And I want a closer ration on the turns. Not sure if those kits for $700-$800 are worth it. There are cheaper alternatives, right? On the 63 pickups, they only had steering assist, correct? Is it better to just add the original steering assist or go with full power steering? |
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The truck sits pretty nice, I think. A while back, I was thinking about dropping it a couple of inches.
If I do buy new springs, you think I should go with 2” lower front and rear? |
Re: Front suspension and steering questions
You could get captainfabs adapter and a steering box - http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=332923
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Is it possible to just buy all these components from Rock Auto, let's say for a 1974 C10?
- Gear box (3-1/4 turns) - Pressure hose - Return hose - Gear nut - Pitman arm - Pump - Pulley - Pump bracket - Steering coupler? - Tie rod end? |
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You need his bracket, but the rest of the items yes if the brackets fit your water pump length ect.
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It's a C20, much stiffer ride than a 10. The difference between my 65 C10 and buddy's 63 C20 was amazing, that thing rode like a school bus. If you want it to ride smooth, you need some weight in the back. Or, convert it to C10 specs.
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The C20's are sprung a bit stiff. But they were designed that way to be able to carry a load. You can put C10 springs front and rear and that will soften the ride. You can lower the tire pressure a bit and that also helps.
Jimmy |
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Might have to look pretty hard for six cyl brackets for p/steering pump, good luck. My vote is to keep your stock springs. I like our C20s to look like the heavier duty trucks that they are.
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You have a 292 right?
If you aren't set on getting factory power steering brackets, there's at least one company out there that makes them. I got this link from another post on here awhile back: https://davisspeedequipment.com/ If you go with the 74 or so steering gear, you'll need a bracket that mounts the power gear to your manual steering frame. I think Captainfab's bracket will work for you if you choose to go that route (check with him on it since your needs are for a c20). Also a good time to install a collapsible intermediate steering shaft. Like mentioned above, you could install 1/2 ton springs fairly easily. Maybe see if someone local is giving away a set of stock springs, install those, see how you like the ride, then if you decide you want to lower it, you can. I could be wrong, but I'm thinking the 1/2 ton springs might lower it a little in comparison to the stock 3/4 ton springs |
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As mentioned above, captainfab adapter plate then a steering box from a 72-74 I know will work. Probably even up to 78. I also used the power steering pump out of the 72. Everything bolted up easily other than the pulley wouldn't line up. I ended up buying a complete pulley setup that changed everything on the engine and now it lines up perfect. Just couldn't find one that matched what I had. I had a donor truck so parts were free. You will also have a steering shaft issue. Right now I have one I welded up on as a mock up but would suggest getting a collapsible one so if the unmentionable happens you don't eat a steering wheel.
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Re: Front suspension and steering questions
Check your cab mount cushions. If they are all shot out a new set of rubber ones will help a little too.
I got these https://www.classicparts.com/1963-66...oaAo_YEALw_wcB |
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What I did was go out to a local junkyard and found everything I needed and got it all for $165. I found a '70 C10 shell with only block and PS pump and sector in it. I had to take it all off myself but it was all good! I kept every bolt, washer, clamp, bracket, pulley and even the original used pump and hoses for good measure. Most junkyards just need to sell and not worried about what they cost on eBay or new. To them its money for parts. Then some elbow grease, spray paint, some new service parts and it's like new. Once in it looks like it was factory.
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Re: Front suspension and steering questions
What tires are you running? Heavy Duty tires vs standard car/truck tires make an impact on the ride quality. 8-ply tires will definitely transmit more road surface 'feel' into the chassis @ their recommended max pressures for the loads they're able to haul.
Tire selection & air pressures can make a big difference here. Coil spring rates will vary between a C10 & C20 but may not be that different. Without knowing what you have, swapping in new springs may not yield much difference. If doing a steering swap, the Captain Fab bracket & full power steering would be the direction I'd go.... |
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Not sure why, but the truck is leaning to one side.
Any ideas? Edit: 1-1/2” lower on the driver side. |
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Coils not seated the same. One maybe didn't seat correctly or could the be clocked differently?
Was the truck level/equal before changes were made? |
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Edit: 1-1/2” lower on the driver side. |
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Maybe you need a add a leaf/spring ,found this in my 63 I purchased
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ADD A Leaf/spring .I found this today while bleeding brakes
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What is the expected end use for your truck? That may help us help you on deciding what to do.
I think that maybe the 3/4T is more than you expected, in a number of ways. Without discussing how it leans, etc., maybe you should consider a trade for a 1/2T? My 3/4T truck rides like a...truck, even with the camper shell on it, and actually not much better when towing a 6k pound travel trailer. 3/4T trucks ride like they do for a reason. I'm suspecting that you are used to newer vehicle ride quality and expect to achieve that. I guarantee that you will never achieve that newer vehicle ride quality. Not trying to be difficult, just giving some opinions. FWIW, one of my sons bought a new Canyon pickup last week. I consider the suspension to be "spongy". I used to race on mountain roads (don't tell my mom) and had made serious upgrades to suspensions on those cars. Soft wasn't a word for those rides. |
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I'm trying to determine how to make the truck sit level, and not lean to one side. |
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Re: Front suspension and steering questions
When you have a lean like that it could be caused by the front or back springs. What you can do is, with the truck on a level surface, put the front frame level on jack stands and see if the rear if off. Then do the same thing with the rear frame on jack stands to see if it's the front where the problem is.
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The distance from the frame to the top of the axle is 1/4” less on the driver side. Not sure if this would make a difference of 1-1/2” when sitting on the ground.
I wonder if the pan hard bar could affect this? |
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1/4" is not going to translate into 1.5" on the opposite end. That dimension is within 'standards' of a vehicle corner height. |
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More info.
I think it is the way the spring sits in the retainer. Is this spring retainer intended to be positioned a specific way? |
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Do those springs look too collapsed with the truck just sitting on the ground?
And, will 1/2 ton springs work on a 3/4 ton truck? I am not planning on carrying heavy loads, just normal driving around town. The Truck and Car Shop in Orange only lists springs for 1/2 ton pickups. |
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2) Yes, they do. |
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Those springs do look pretty collapsed. I'd be worried it would sit too high if you bought new stock springs. A lot of guys (including me) use 97-06 Jeep TJ rear coils as drop coils on 1/2 tons. (ACDelco 45H2104)
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2” maybe?? |
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4" I believe. And I see in my notes the ACDelco 45H2104 is a 653lb variable spring.
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Mine is 2 1/2" drop spindle front with stock springs, 4" drop in back with those Jeep springs. It's a short fleet and the back is very stiff. I still want to try to loosen it up with some different shocks but that will be after I get it from storage in the spring.
There is also a heavier Jeep spring. The ACDelco 45H2103 and the Moog 47939GB are 821lbs variable. One of my biggest complaints about my truck is the poor (clunky/stiff) ride. The other complaint I have is not enough leg room. |
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I think I’m just going to go down to the Truck Shop and see if they have the 2” or 3” drop springs for the rear. At least those will fit and all I have to do is get the right drop. The Jeep springs are not a sure thing, and if they are 4” drop that’s probably too much for what I want.
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Since you ask the question, people have been lowering vehicles since long before most of us were born. That said, I have never liked the lowered or slammed looks. The lower something sits, the more it looks to me like it's broken. I guess I'm more of an "original" guy. Again I'm not saying lowering is "wrong", just that to my eyes the truck looks more normal at standard ride height. YMMV. |
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