Inline 6 is really tired
1963 C20, 292 inline 6, stock distributor with Pertronix, 1bbl Rochester carb, 5-speed T5
:uhmk:Just drove this thing about 20 miles; pretty warm out today. Thing is, it’s gutless!! No power, climbing up a gradual incline is not good. After a few miles, the temperature started creeping up. Once I turned around, and started going downhill, it cooled off. When driving around town, the temperature is ok, always stays on the far left of the gauge. And, these brakes drag- coming up to a stop light, I can feel it holding back when in neutral. If it’s level ground, it comes to a stop like my foot is on the brake. If it’s a slight incline, it stops, then starts to roll backwards. Can’t wait to get that front end in here with disc brakes. |
Re: Inline 6 is really tired
I read other post, and some people changed the orientation of their carb; mine is a 1bbl, so I don’t think that would be it.
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If the brakes are truely dragging then is the engine really tired or just being held back by brakes?
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Regarding checking the valve lash adjust, is it ok to check it statically? By turning engine over until both valves of the cylinder are closed and spinning the pushrod between your fingers?
Hate doing it while it’s running, such a mess. There’s always a pushrod that is spewing oil everywhere. |
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Make a wall from cardboard to stop oil splashes.
When setting them you should wiggle the rockers to get any slack out. Twisting the rods isn’t accurate. |
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A while back, I tried the running method, I just couldn’t tell which valve was making noise. |
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There are some knuckle draggers like me who can still twist the pushrods when the valve is wide open.
More accurate with wiggling them. |
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What’s your initial timing?
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Plugs look pretty good.
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My last 250 ran perfect there. |
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Usually trying to twist a chromoly oil soaked pushrod between your oil soaked greasy fingers, you don't realize that the rod is actually slipping between your fingers as pressure is put on the rod as you tighten the rocker nut. Leads to having too much preload added to your adjustment. So wiggling them up and down is usually more accurate to know when all lash is taken out. :) After doing this for almost 40 years, I wiggle them up and down until I can't feel anymore lash, and then gently twist them too. :) Gary |
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I’m confident the valves are not the issue. I’ll advance the timing next; we’ll see how that goes. I’ll also check the brakes, however, I’m pretty sure they’re not dragging that bad. It’s just annoying as hell. |
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Don’t cut the top off.
12 holes works better. |
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That's a pretty good idea. I'll have to take some measurements, next time I pull the valve cover. Unless, someone knows the dimensions?? Would be even better if there was a plug that could be put back in place to seal up the hole. |
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I advanced the timing and replaced the front drums. Seems to be running a little, better but hard to tell. Still doesn’t pull up the grade.
And, the brakes are not dragging now. Wondering if I should bother putting any more money into this motor; thinking I should start putting money away for a 383 stroker. |
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What gear are you in when pulling the grade?
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If I drop down into 4th, I’ll be at about 2800 rpm. |
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That’s about right!
You got no torque. Even at 2800 your tired motor doesn’t have enough torque. Do you have a vacuum gauge set up to see how much vac you got at different times while driving. |
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I’ve set a gauge up on the left side of the dash close to the pillar. Easy to see at a glance.
Try to drive at the highest vac reading. |
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I drove it down to Donut Derelicts this morning, and it just has absolutely no guts. Just sad. It cruises along well, it’s just gutless. Hate to spend money on a carburetor and an exhaust system if it’s all in vain. Maybe I’m better spending the money on a carbureted LS motor.
Pretty amazing cars there. |
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Chevrolet 292 engines achieved a maximum 165 gross-horsepower at 3,800 rpm and netted 147 horsepower at 3,600 rpm.
It reached its maximum gross torque of 280 pound-feet at 1,600 rpm and netted 262 pound-feet of torque at 2,000 rpm. Your engine with the 5th gear ratio of either .73 or .80 is right around the torque net range value of 2040 rpm (.73) or 2240 if using the .80 version of the T5. These trucks were fitted with 4.11 rears to accommodate the relatively low torque figures of the six vs the V8.... Add in the age of the engine, the weight of the truck and its high level of drag... A 4.11 rear gear equates to a 3.00 rear gear if using the .73 version of the T5 A 4.11 rear gear equates to 3.28 if using the .80 version of the T5. You have a "normal" aged six cylinder truck.... A swap to a 350 and auto will improve the performance.... |
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And, a normal aged six cylinder is going to be gutless and have no power to go up hills? Is a V6 305E worth $300? Local one here, may need rebuild. Not sure if these motors are worth investing, since they are rare, a lot harder to find parts for it. |
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First fix your brakes.
Try a tune up. How old is the Pertronix? I don't trust them. [GM HEI is a better system and you can get replacements anywhere.] A busted vacuum advance diaphragm might give those symptoms. Or jammed fly-weights in the distr. Pull a compression check. Then consider rebuilding the 292. Bore it .030 over and you get 296 cubic inches. You can get an upgraded cam. Think about aftermarket intakes for a 4 bbl carb. Clifford and Offy make them. Add headers. GMC V6s were tank engines in their day, But finding parts is difficult for an engine that rare. Since your rig is already a 292 truck, stay 292. Stock and aftermarket parts are available for the L25 Chevy engine. |
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When people hot rod their L6 to sport a four barrel, then there's some discussion. Some folks think the truck won't go forward properly if the carb is oriented sideways. The other school contends that the carb should be aligned so the primaries open equally over both plenums for cylinders 1-2-3 and 4-5-6. Not primaries opening over 1-2-3 and secondaries over 4-5-6. And some ''experts'' say it's too close to matter unless you're drag racing. Personally, I don't mind a sidesaddle carb. In fact it's easier to tune it over the drivers side fender, than bellyflopping across the radiator. But it's a free country. |
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Compression check - I need to do this. I can see the vacuum advance at the distributor is moving, when I rev the throttle, the vcuum advance is moving the distributor plate and linkage. I don't want to just re-build the I6 - thinking about picking up a GMC 305E V6 - would rather rebuild that motor. I'm just wondering why mine is so sluggish. Same thinking with the Offy intake manifold - if this motor is crap, why should I dump money into an intake or a new exhaust? |
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You have been all over the board between LS engines to V-6 to?
I'm not trying to be a dick but at some point you have to make a decision. I've been in your shoes so not casting stones here...... I would go small block V-8 and don't look back. Just my .02 after a little tequila:flagw: |
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It’s all one one plane inside just like a single plane intake. |
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I have a 5-speed on the floor, so if I go with an automatic, I got extra setups to do fit that, plus getting a column with the shifter. I’d rather just keep it 5 speed, but want a decent motor that doesn’t bog-out on a slight incline. |
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I'm just sharing what I would do....the crappy part is it costs money dang it Gina!! (joke lol)
It's your stuff and money but at the end of the day what do you want? Personal question but how much do you want to spend? |
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There’s a 305 V6 that I could pick up locally for about $300. If I did, I would probably just try and get it running and see how it goes. I wouldn’t mind taking a few months to get it rebuilt. I just don’t know a shop I can trust. I think I might do the disc brake thing first - I have a cross member from a 74 C20, just need to buy a steering gear and PS pump/bracket. Also, I have a chance to buy that 305 V6, which you don’t see everyday. So, maybe I should jump on that even if I have to let it sit in my garage for a while before popping it in. I guess my patience is a little short. But, that’s another story. |
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You got 5 speeds.
Use them all to go anywhere. If you need to run in 3rd up a long grade it won’t hurt the motor. Changing to an automatic won’t help. Will be worse. An automatic uses about 25 to 50 hp to work. That’s 20-50 you can’t afford to lose. A big 305 v6 isn’t worth it. Tuff trans hook up. Hard to find too. I’d look for a nice sbc. Anything from a 283 to a 350. |
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That big v6 might be only 300 but by the time you go thru it and spend a big chunk putting it in you’ll have likely spent more than double a simple sbc swap would be.
Have you tried more initial timing beyond the 14 I suggested? |
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The 292 had a touch more torque that my stock 283 and I dont feel like my truck is gutless
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The timing marks only go about 10 degrees from TDC. https://youtu.be/plk1tsYjUwU |
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