Starter Shims
 

Okay--- after a lot of procrastination on my part, I finally replaced a starter that was giving me problems when it got warm. It's close to the headers, and I'd put a shield around it, but the problem wouldn't go away (barely turned when warm).
What I'm asking about is the shims. I got 2 thin ones with the new starter, but there were a bunch (6) between the old starter and the block. They were marked with different thicknesses, so the total shim thickness was .120. I looked at the flex plate (ring gear), and it appeared from the wear marks that everything was okay--- pinion gear not too deep, etc.
Has anyone else used this much shim?
The sheet with the starter said gear depth was supposed to be between .020-.060
Just trying to figure out what's going on...

Re: Starter Shims
 

sounds like a lot to me. I've never used more than one or two myself.

sometimes just half a shim.

Most of the times, none.

Re: Starter Shims
 

I put the stack of shims back, thinking that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but I'm still trying to figure out the reason for so many shims. I was hesitant to remove any of them, though for the above reason...

Re: Starter Shims
 

I've said it before and I'll say it again..........

The best way I have found to shim a starter takes a bit of time but I have found that taking this extra time eliminates alot of headaches later on and longer starter life as well.

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove flexplate dust shield from bottom of tranny.
3. Remove the starter from engine.
4. Remove starter solenoid from starter.
5. Remount starter WITHOUT the solenoid to then engine.
6. Reach up and pull back on the plunger to move the starter drive gear into the teeth of the flexplate.
7. Using a wire feeler gauge measure the gap between the tip (crest) of the tooth on the drive gear and the bottom(valley) of the teeth on the flex plate. It should be no more than .060" NOTE; A large paper clip works well for this measurement if you don't have a wire style feeler gauge
8. If it's right, put it all back together then you're good to go. However if it's too tight or too loose, then you will need to shim it.
9. If it's too tight start with a shim that's .015" thick and shim both mounting points between the starter and block then measure again. If it's too loose then shim out ONLY the outer mounting bolt to cause the starter to tilt into the block.
10. Play around with the shimming until you achieve the proper gap of .060"
whether it's by no-shim ,full shim or half shim on either bolt.
11. Once you've got it set put'er all back together and drive on.
Yes it is time consuming and tedious but you will be pleased with the end result.

Re: Starter Shims
 

I would take Ble Burbans advice if I was you. I learned last weekend that it is a lot easier to shim a starter correctly than it is to pull your transmission and replace a flywheel. Every starter is different and they all need different amounts of shims. The starter I put in after my new flywheel needed 3 shims moving it closer to the flywheel and the first starter I got from napa didn't even move the pinion gear out far enough to engage the whole width of the flywheel, so you never know what your getting.

Re: Starter Shims
 

When i got my truck last year i went threw using shims with old starter
then new starter
then new flywheel,with starter
ended up no shims,works fine since
the amount of wear didn't seem bad till compared to a new one

Re: Starter Shims
 

Thanks for the advice and help!
After pulling the starter, I checked clearances as suggested, and found that no shims were needed to get the required gap, so I left all shims out.
The starter works great....

Re: Starter Shims
 

Glad to help