What say you
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I need to clean the top seam out and re do it. What is the best sealer to use for this. I'm not a body man but I want to do this myself if it's possible. Get the old out and clean it up good primer it then do the sealer are is there something else I need to do before???
HELP :chevy: |
Re: What say you
its gonna be tuff to clean it as good as it needs cleaned...all the rust needs to be gone...sandblasting got mine clean..probably not a option for you...bare metal,,then epoxy, then a good sealer..i used seaer from a calking gun...it worked ok.. MP&C used a self leveling sealer on the 55 that I wish I had used
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Re: What say you
I would acid etch first. Inside and out. Permanent rust sealer aluminum pigmented two coats, followed by a urethane or epoxy surfacer
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Re: What say you
Just a suggestion on the Prep work.
What about a Spot Blaster? Link:https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/M545...%26%20Hardware This one is just an Example. . |
Re: What say you
I was thinking getting the old out with a scrapper then wire brushing it to bare metal. I'm not worried about the paint. It's not going for the show paint job. It's staying the old rusty look!:chevy:
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Re: What say you
I use wire wheel on cordless drill works good done several that way just wear safety glasses
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I've had a metal sliver in my eye before, VERY uncomfortable.
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Re: What say you
sand blasting will do a better job then a wire wheel and that spot blaster will work just fine, you will just be filling it up every 12" or so, make sure to mask off were you do not want it blasted, then when ready to seam seal it use tape again for a nice straight line and put the sealer down and use a brush to smooth it out.
We use a 2 part heavy body seam sealer at our shop. |
Re: What say you
Sandblasting on cleaning outside of the gutter but I think acid etch would be more effective on the welded seam. I would soak the daylights out of it, then seal it
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Re: What say you
3 Attachment(s)
You already have the cab back on the frame and glass installed so sand blasting could turn bad fast besides being a huge mess , Use a angled pick and small blade screw driver to pick all the heavy sealer out and then a wire wheel to clean the rest out , get it as clean as possible then prep and shoot the drip rail with epoxy primer before using self leveling flow grade 3M seam sealer .The cab has to be level at the seam for it to flow correctly , Always easier if the cab is off the frame . I used an air powered windshield tool to clean mine out and it took a bout 45 minutes , Be careful if you do the same it can eat right thru the sheet metal if your not careful .:chevy:
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Re: What say you
I used a narrow wood chisel to clean out the narrow parts of the drip rail. Then a wider one for the wider areas. Then sand blasted.
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Re: What say you
My thought is that a wire wheel polishes the rust and the steel in the wheel colors the rust silver. Wire wheel all you want, but sand on it some after to look for rust. I'd expect the seam sealer to bubble and fail unless the area was blasted.
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