Porterbuilt Body Drop c10
 

Im thinking about body dropping my C10 and saw that porterbuilt offers a kit to set the pinch welds on the ground. Has anyone done this, is their any other makor modifications required other than redoin the bed. Ie. Steering linkages, etc.. Not sure how much it acyually drops the body but Is it worth all the work? Thanks
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Re: Porterbuilt Body Drop c10
 

I think it is worth the money...I am doing one right now.. look in the project build section for 72 shades of gray.. I have more pics than posted.. I test fitted the wheels today and am about to upload those pics.. The tubs are cut wider because the owner wants the option to widen in the future.

Re: Porterbuilt Body Drop c10
 

do you have any tips for widening wheel tubs and cutting bed floor to allow for 12 inch wide wheels on a 72 2wd blazer.

Re: Porterbuilt Body Drop c10
 

rear end hasn't been cut yet but this is my best estimate while deflated.

Re: Porterbuilt Body Drop c10
 

the simplest way IMO is to find a set of wheel wells off a donor truck and just extend what you got.. aftermarket will work but the body lines will be a little off.. I will post more pics that I think might help.. tomorrow I will take pics that I know will help. The bed floor was raised 3 inches which then takes a 3 inch lift kit to make the bed and cab line up.

Re: Porterbuilt Body Drop c10
 

Well I don't have a porter built body drop, but I did body drop mine my own way and I can tell you that you will run into clearance issues every where. Just to list mine. Hood, wheel wells, hood hinges, trans tunnel, wheel lips, steering shaft to ds upper control arm. I had to move my brake booster over 3" and down some to clear hood and the motor. This allowed me to move the steering column up to clear control arm. If you raise the cab floor,( I don't think porters does) but if so you also have leg to steering wheel clearance issues. Long story short I reworked my whole firewall to clear motor and move booster/ column and pedals to work. I re worked my dash and made brackets to hold the column since I no longer bolts into the pedal bracket. You can go different routs if you want to fork out the dough like getting the small booster, shorter aftermarket column with double u joint shaft. It's worth it in the end. You get the slammed look with good ride cheaper than a full chassis build. If I put bags on mine I could lay it out but it looks bagged now even tho it's a static drop. In fact I had to go back to a 1.5 spring on front caus I only had 4" from the front frame rail to the ground. ( I cut the frame between the core support and gear box to drop the front clip) one other clearance issue you may have along with the radiator lol jkjkjk