New Garage Advice
 

A little over 2 years ago i had a stick built garage built for the 54 (and an suv). 24x30. 10 foot walls, 8 x16 wide rollup doors, hardi backer siding and metal roof. With move i find myself having to build another garage to house the 84" tall 54. I found the single 16 foot door tight when opening doors and am looking at 26' wide with two 8x9s. May have to go with a metal prefab. Anyone have experience with one? Rusting both building and vehicle comes to mind. Will be for just parking and not maintenance or other car work. Should mention we are now on the river a half mile from the ocean. All comments, warnings and recommendations welcome.

Re: New Garage Advice
 

sorry but you need to get it away from the salt air. bring it to Seattle and I will "keep it" for you. it will get lots of love !!! LOL !!

Re: New Garage Advice
 

Thanks, but no. Looking out on the lights on Bay Street across river right now and having a glass of wine, Think me and old "george" the 54 will stay here,

Re: New Garage Advice
 

sounds like you need a "pole barn" style, with a dirt floor etc. just to park in. water and debris from vehicles simply gets absorbed into the dirt. a buddy of mine is building one. laminated treated 2x6 for the poles, because they don't split and twist like a 6x6 would, then the rest of the above ground stuff is regular timber. the span between the poles can be bigger than you would expect and then the unit is strapped horizontally at 2 ft intervals, lots of guys use metal sheathing screwed to that but you could also use regular sheathing and side it to match the rest of your buildings. the roof gets sheeted and then a membrane top to bottom, like normal, with rolled asphalt on top. nothing pretty but functional. for coastal areas the asphalt could be swapped out for tile or galvanized steel but tile can absorb moisture and make the roof heavier than normal plus the trusses would need to be engineered for the extra weight. galvanized steel can go dull pretty quick. you could look into the metal roof systems, like decra. they claim to be very good for coastal areas and are coated for resilience in the salty air etc. a couple of big doors or a big single, depending on your width. if you use a scissor truss style and center the door opening you can have a normal looking roof line and a taller garage door with regular height walls. a lot of guys use them when they plan on having a hoist but restrictions dictate a max height to the top of the shingle. you kinda lose space on each side of a hoist but if you just need access for a taller truck, with no hoist in the middle, then it might work.
just some thoughts.

Re: New Garage Advice
 

The only steel frame buildings I have known to have had rust issues are those where there were severe caustic or humidity conditions created inside the building it's self.

In Texas in the early 70's there was a long abandoned rendering plant building that guys used to sneak up to to scavenge some scrap metal, either to use or to sell for scrap. Now I believe that who ever owned the land was praying that someone would haul it all off. That metal was rusted and actually stunk even though it hadn't been used for over ten years before I ever saw it.

A section of the Seneca Foods juice plant I worked in had rust issues but that section had a lot of grape and apple juice and live steam plus the caustic solution to clean it around all the time and it never actually dried out. Other areas of the same plant that were the same age didn't have that problem.

Truthfully I'd say what ever correctly built building you put up will stand there until the day many years in the future that someone gets tired of looking at it and wants something else.

The only things that aren't going to work down there are untreated posts in the ground or untreated wood too close to ground level. I'd still go with the suggestions on the other thread on the subject of having concrete stub walls poured to keep what ever walls you have above ground level. That 12 inches or so of concrete will probably extend the life of the bulding 50 years.

Re: New Garage Advice
 

do not leave a dirt or gravel floor in a building you are going to store cars in. the cars will rot from the bottom up from the moisture vapor coming up thru the floor. you will be sorry!

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At my bike shop, I do from time to time get some customers from the coast. Even if this store there bikes in a fully enclosed garage, this still a corrosion problem for the salt air

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In Indiana we leave the floor out until the tax lady comes by and then we just slip her in.

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Our house and garage are about 200' from the Atlantic Ocean. I say it is so corrosive here that even aluminum rusts LOL.

I put a painted metal roof on one of our buildings a few years ago and it it doing fine. When we installed the metal roof, we painted the cut edges of the metal and it seems to be holding up. The cheaper galvanized sheet metal roofing and siding seems to start to rust in a less than 10 years. What is the coating on the metal building panels?

Re: New Garage Advice
 

I use Butler and Corle for my commercial metal buildings. They have something that will work for you. I built a factory in Seattle on the coast and it was some nice stuff.

Re: New Garage Advice
 

Getting estimates on both stick and prefab metal now. Biggest issue is concrete. Running 160 t0 200+ yard now due to inflation and other insanity.

Re: New Garage Advice
 

A guy 50 miles south of me has a 30x100 steel Quonset style bolt together building with no ends that has never been assembled for sale for 15K https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...08586847215238 If I had the money I'd buy it, use what I need for my shop and sell the rest to someone else to recover a decent part of my money.