Originally Posted by SierraMtns (Post 7122728)

Do you have any plans on making a kit that will fit a 67?

Originally Posted by PLYONS11 (Post 7157473)

Captain. Got the package today. Very impressed! you are quite a craftsman. High quality piece! Won't be getting to this project for a couple month, but I can't wait to see it all put together.

I still need to decide which master and booster I'm going to use as well as find the smaller return spring for the clutch pedal. Has anyone Been able to find one of these after market or OEM replacement? I have been to 3 yards that have early 60's trucks on hand and no luck. The springs are all missing. I'm wondering if I can't just find a spring somewhere that I can make work for this application.

Originally Posted by Captainfab (Post 7157503)

Thanks for the compliment :)

I'll try and remember to look at the shop tomorrow and see if I might have a spring.

Originally Posted by vetnat (Post 7211171)

Hi Captain.
Newbie here. I have a 1962 Canadian GMC half ton. I am just getting started with putting disc brakes in the front. I would like to order one of your brackets, powder coated black.

My plan is to order the 6 lug disc brake conversion kit from Performance on Line, which I believe is based on the 73 to 87 years. Have you heard good or bad things about this kit? I got a booster from a 1997 Chev 1500, and am hopefully getting a master cylinder out of a 73 to 87. Do you know if that cylinder will fit with that booster? Does that sound like a good plan?

As for the bore size of the clutch slave, I don't know how to tell. I took some pictures on the weekend, but don't know how to post them. The engine is a 235 6 cylinder, and a three on the tree.

Any comments on my plan would be most welcome. How do I go about ordering the bracket from you?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by concretekiller (Post 7211568)

Good morning Captain Fab. I have a couple of questions for you;

1. Has anyone ever had the threaded rod bend and break that goes between the clutch pedal eyelet and the cantilever piece?
2. Has anyone ever had the lower bolt that goes through the master cylinder, firewall, and into the aluminum threaded bracket break?
3. Has anyone ever had the master cylinder rod bend?

The reason I ask is that all three of these have happened to me. I replaced the firewall bolt once and the threaded rod once already, and they have both bent and broken again. The master cylinder is the same bore as the slave cylinder, and the slave cylinder came as a hydraulic clutch kit from novak (http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/clutch/kit_hcrc.htm). Any insight as to the issues at hand?

Originally Posted by Captainfab (Post 3515445)

If you have a manual transmission in your truck and also want power brakes, this is what you need. This bracket is fabricated from laser cut 10ga. mild steel and fits 1960-62 Chevy and 1960-63 GMC pickups, Suburban and Panels and is 100% bolt on using holes already in your firewall. The booster side of the bracket has a 3 3/8" x 3 1/2" hole pattern. Boosters with this pattern are commonly found on S10's and full size pickups from 1988 to at least 1998, Suburbans, Blazers and Tahoes from 1992 to at least 1998. You can also find compatable boosters on early to mid 70's Impalas and Caprices. Of course you will have to join the booster pushrod to your stock MC pushrod that attaches to your brake pedal. This can be done by either threading both ends and using a coupling nut, or by just welding them together once you determine the correct length.

For the hydraulic clutch master, this is setup to use a readily available Wilwood master cylinder. To install the master cylinder you will have to drill (2) 11/32" holes for the mounting bolts, and a 1 1/2" hole (with a hole saw) to accomodate the center of the master cylinder. The supplied standoff simply bolts to your brake pedal using an existing hole. Then the pushrod and heim joint screw onto the clutch master pushrod on one end and to bolts to the standoff on the other end.


This adapter plate kit contains the adapter plate with mounting hardware, the standoff, pushrod and heim joint with related hardware and the Wilwood master cylinder. The cost on this is $207.50 plus the flat rate shipping cost of $16.90. As with my other brake booster brackets, you can add powder coating for an additional $8.50. Satin black is a normally stocked color, but other colors are available.

Please see posts #33, #43 & #44

Originally Posted by koolkat269 (Post 7521160)

How do I order one?

Originally Posted by 62chevy302 (Post 7547603)

If i use a 88-98 booster will a 73-87 master cylinder work right and bolt to the booster?

Originally Posted by Captainfab (Post 7585927)

I have not heard of anyone with an issue like that. How many miles do you have on it? How long ago did you buy the kit from me?

Originally Posted by Auctioneerhere (Post 7594230)

Will this work on my GMC 2 ton truck? If so what master cyl do you recommend?

Originally Posted by Captainfab (Post 7594399)

What year is your GMC? Does it have a hydraulic clutch? Are you keeping the manual trans and hydraulic clutch? I assume it still has all 4 drum brakes? I'm not sure if a '80's Class B motorhome master will work with a drum/drum brake system.

Originally Posted by Auctioneerhere (Post 7594588)

It is a 64-66 cab w/ an older 61 perhaps frame 2 ton, so yes 4 drum brakes.

Front suspension is a torsion bar set up. motor home is a good idea, I suppose I can look at what a newer 2 on has for a braking system also.