Wow it is such a small world. I've lived here my whole 19 years of life. Always around 20 and 287.

If you ever need any parts for your ls1 I have a bunch of parts laying around. I wouldnt mind letting go for cheap. I need to make more room in my shop.

Cool! Here are the things I'm short, some are FBody specific:

Radiator and dual fan setup (my radiator is kinda old)
Clutch hydraulic actuator (master cylinder), resevoir, lines and mounting bracket
In-tank fuel pump

There might be more, but I think that's most of it.

Maybe I missed it but what bolts need to be removed to get front clip off? I might be swapping a 67 clip onto my 70 and I will have to remove both clips.

I do have a ls6 clutch flywheel pressure plate and brand new slave for an f-body. I would just want what I paid for it all 175 shipped. I can get you pics if interested.

Literally, all I need is everything from the quick disconnect on the bellhousing to the pedal (including the fluid resevoir). The GM part number for this assembly is 12570277 and I can get it new for $129.80 PLUS $8.00 FREIGHT.

This is for a '67-'68 probably:

Save any body shims you find. Mark where they went so you can lineup parts in the future.

Remove the bumper: This takes 6 bolts only. A couple can stay in.

Remove the cowl: Take off both wipers, take off bolt near the hood and behind the top of the door on each side, remove all screws and antenna from the top of the cowl (and the screws where the rubber flap/weather seal is if you still have one) and it should lift up easy.

Remove the outer fender bolts: two are up top close to the door. One is at the bottom of the fender close to the door. There is one more bolt just up and under that last one, you'll need to get under the truck and look in to see it - it has a big washer on it (mine did). it's about 2-3" above the bottom lip of the outer fender under the door, don't confuse it with the rocker panel bolt.

Remove the inner fender bolt: Look inside the wheel well for the bolt.

Unbolt the radiator support: This is done with two bolts that sit just under radiator - they have a smooth head and the bolt is under the truck. It's about as big around as your thumb in diameter, think it's an 11/16" nut.

There might be a bracket with 4 bolts where the steering column goes through the inner fender (driver's side). These will need to be undone.

If you can't lift one side easily, try to find the holdup. I'm pretty sure that's all of them though.

BAG YOUR BOLTS AND LABEL!

well without a tranny crossmember, that's changes a lot. i wasn't aware anybody could type 150 wpm, that's excellent, but i was attempting to illustrate how easy it actually is to remove the front end.

This will make life much simpler. Thanks.

2nd that.....I unclip the harness,& pull 2 pins, then it takes 2 stout, or 3 old guys to lift that (3/4 of that) front clip off! smart azz , right.....really, over the last 20 yrs, i have had too many weard combos in my longhorn (just got d@mn tired going over the fenders after the swap). Its an old/fat guy thing....lol! No,im not lazy.....just tired :lol: pics in my signature....69L

I hear ya. Sorry dude, I'm not trying to grill ya, but your post came off kinda cocky and off-handed the way I read it.

I write code for a living, so I type damned fast. It's not 150 CWPM, but it's close.

Check out the pics in my sig and you'll get a better idea of what I've done so far.

Here's my next question: What's the easiest way to get this bastard back on without denting and scraping everything up? Should I take the tires off and put it on jackstands? Should I pull the steering column?

Yes, i would remove the front tires & the lower shaft(leave the column in place tho). if you enlist a few stout guys, it shouldnt be too bad. you might also remove the hood (if you havent already). it looks like a cool project....best of luck,69L

:but: Except it's a 68, no detachable lower shaft!

What he said ^^^

:agree:

That's why I'm saying I would remove the whole shaft.

Maybe if i bust out the rivet in the middle of the shaft (gotta do it anyways to re-fit the new power steering box) I can shrink it down (telescope it?) and slide in?

Open to suggestions if anyone has one. I'm realizing what a pain in the ass it will be to get back in now :(

heh

No you don't. The stock truck PS unit is the same length as the manual unit. Trust me on this

Not sure if you've seen any of my trucks, but I don't worry about paint. :rolleyes: However since you do, why not:
1. detach the column shaft from the steering box at the rag joint
2. free up column on inside of cab so that the wheel can be lowered to the seat. This involves a few brackets on each side of the firewall.

This should allow enough freedom of movement to swing the steering column shaft towards the engine and gain the needed clearance WITHOUT removing the column altogether.

No questions.

I'd like to push my column in towards the dash so it's not sitting so far out. Should I bustthe rivet out and readjust anyway? Is there any re-welding of tabs involved to do this? It's a 3-on-tree column. Just curious.

Thanks for the pointers.

Oops, my bad! I wasnt paying attention to the yr! I think I would be tempted to drop the inner fender on the D side to help with reassembly. 69L :crazy: